Hi guys can somebody help me I have a Rem. 700 varmint special all sanded up and ready for a finish I wanted a low lustre matte like finish , can somebody tell me what to use and maybe some tips on how to make it work .Thanks
There's been some 'discussion' on this subject recently, with strong opinions expressed. Sitka Deer has a good finish he can share, as does alpine crick. As for me, I'm in the late stages of applying Waterlox Original. Looks great after 6 thin coats, and I'll probably put 4 or 5 more on it. Pores are mostly filled now. Looks better than the oil finish this is replacing, though it may not turn out as tough as what Sitka does.
Will my Waterlox finish look like a matte oil finish? Probably depends on how much I rub it out once it's cured.
Will my Waterlox finish look like a matte oil finish? Probably depends on how much I rub it out once it's cured.
There has been so much bandied about on this subject on the Campfire recently that I don't have the strength to go through it all again. May I suggest you research old posts on the subject and take it from there.
I will say that you would be better off using a gloss finish and rub it out afterward to achieve the effect you want. Lots of good reasons to do it that way.
I will say that you would be better off using a gloss finish and rub it out afterward to achieve the effect you want. Lots of good reasons to do it that way.
Go on to the "Ask the Gunwriters" and scroll down a bit and look for Stock Spar Finishes. Several pages of more than you want to know.
Originally Posted by gnoahhh
There has been so much bandied about on this subject on the Campfire recently that I don't have the strength to go through it all again. May I suggest you research old posts on the subject and take it from there.
I will say that you would be better off using a gloss finish and rub it out afterward to achieve the effect you want. Lots of good reasons to do it that way.
I will say that you would be better off using a gloss finish and rub it out afterward to achieve the effect you want. Lots of good reasons to do it that way.
This oughtta' smoke out Art again........
One way to achieve something approximating an oil finish is to use 2-4 (thinned") coats of semi-gloss spar urethane, followed by 2-3 coats of (thinned) flat spar. Try to find the same brand type of spar urethane for both sheens for compatibility's sake. This way you kinda' get the best of both worlds.
The semi-gloss underneath will give the finish a bit of the appearance of "depth" too.
Casey
Thanks a lot guys , you pointed me in the right direction . Kudu 1
Some may have pointed you in the right direction... Casey did not...
Sad that someone claiming to know something about finish would give such a "wonderful" example of same...
Sad that someone claiming to know something about finish would give such a "wonderful" example of same...
I use Birchwood Casey Tru Oil cut with mineral spirits on anywhere from a 3 or 5 to i basis (mineral oil/Tru Oil) rubbed in with Armor All in the palm of the hand. Do 15-20 coats and then rub the sheen off with 0000 steel wool. (The higher the ratio of mineral oil to Tru Oil, the less the shine on the stock.)
Jordan
Jordan
I use Birchwood Casey Tru Oil cut with mineral spirits on anywhere from a 3 or 5 to 1 basis (mineral oil/Tru Oil) rubbed in with Armor All in the palm of the hand. Do 15-20 coats and then rub the sheen off with 0000 steel wool. (The higher the ratio of mineral oil to Tru Oil, the less the shine on the stock.) Disclaimer: I am a complete frigging novice at finishing gun stocks. Get a second opinion. 
)
Jordan
)Jordan
That is wrong on several levels. Refer to previous posts regarding the fallacy of thinning finishes in initial coats, and the fallacy of introducing any compound containing silicone (which includes ArmorAll). Rubbing out a finish with 0000 steel wool will undoubedly leave teeny bits of steel snagged in the finish- you can't see them or feel them but they're there, and you will see them when those little brown rust spots materialize on a really humid/wet day.
A little time spent analyzing old posts here will pay dividends. An evening of going back through several years worth of old posts can be time well spent and may well avoid catastrophic mistakes (and in many instances provide enough drama to satisfy any taste). Unfortunately, the average bear today can't be bothered with time consuming research- we need instant gratification to salve our lazy souls. Nor do we want to master arcane arts such as wood finishing- we seek instead the "quick fix", that may well bite us in the butt at some point down the road. Great advances have been made in the world of finishes over the last few decades, thank god. But, the one irrefutable constant is the mindset of the craftsman- one needs to adopt an attitude that allows for meticulousness in all details (including doing one's homework beforehand- research baby, research) and be prepared to devote as much time as necessary to the project. As with everything else in life, you get out of it what you put into it.
A little time spent analyzing old posts here will pay dividends. An evening of going back through several years worth of old posts can be time well spent and may well avoid catastrophic mistakes (and in many instances provide enough drama to satisfy any taste). Unfortunately, the average bear today can't be bothered with time consuming research- we need instant gratification to salve our lazy souls. Nor do we want to master arcane arts such as wood finishing- we seek instead the "quick fix", that may well bite us in the butt at some point down the road. Great advances have been made in the world of finishes over the last few decades, thank god. But, the one irrefutable constant is the mindset of the craftsman- one needs to adopt an attitude that allows for meticulousness in all details (including doing one's homework beforehand- research baby, research) and be prepared to devote as much time as necessary to the project. As with everything else in life, you get out of it what you put into it.
I agree that the silicone containing materials are a bad idea. I suppose that for a finish you might get something that looks good, but be happy with it since it might be pretty tough to ever remove the silicones prior to the next finish. I would not want that problem.
And yes, patience is really important. Can't rush through a great finish. I will admit that I am impatient, and it have to fight it every time I make something wooden.
I'm still waiting for the Waterlox to cure. Looks great right now, but it'll look so much better later. About a month away from being finished. A month. Dang.
And yes, patience is really important. Can't rush through a great finish. I will admit that I am impatient, and it have to fight it every time I make something wooden.
I'm still waiting for the Waterlox to cure. Looks great right now, but it'll look so much better later. About a month away from being finished. A month. Dang.
Try this link below:
https://www.firearmsforum.com/firearms/article/3037
Really covers all the basics on a tried and proven method - you can vary the final product for flat matte, semi-gloss, or a French-polish finish.
https:/
Really covers all the basics on a tried and proven method - you can vary the final product for flat matte, semi-gloss, or a French-polish finish.
Originally Posted by gnoahhh
That is wrong on several levels. Refer to previous posts regarding the fallacy of thinning finishes in initial coats, and the fallacy of introducing any compound containing silicone (which includes ArmorAll). Rubbing out a finish with 0000 steel wool will undoubedly leave teeny bits of steel snagged in the finish- you can't see them or feel them but they're there, and you will see them when those little brown rust spots materialize on a really humid/wet day.
A little time spent analyzing old posts here will pay dividends. An evening of going back through several years worth of old posts can be time well spent and may well avoid catastrophic mistakes (and in many instances provide enough drama to satisfy any taste). Unfortunately, the average bear today can't be bothered with time consuming research- we need instant gratification to salve our lazy souls. Nor do we want to master arcane arts such as wood finishing- we seek instead the "quick fix", that may well bite us in the butt at some point down the road. Great advances have been made in the world of finishes over the last few decades, thank god. But, the one irrefutable constant is the mindset of the craftsman- one needs to adopt an attitude that allows for meticulousness in all details (including doing one's homework beforehand- research baby, research) and be prepared to devote as much time as necessary to the project. As with everything else in life, you get out of it what you put into it.
A little time spent analyzing old posts here will pay dividends. An evening of going back through several years worth of old posts can be time well spent and may well avoid catastrophic mistakes (and in many instances provide enough drama to satisfy any taste). Unfortunately, the average bear today can't be bothered with time consuming research- we need instant gratification to salve our lazy souls. Nor do we want to master arcane arts such as wood finishing- we seek instead the "quick fix", that may well bite us in the butt at some point down the road. Great advances have been made in the world of finishes over the last few decades, thank god. But, the one irrefutable constant is the mindset of the craftsman- one needs to adopt an attitude that allows for meticulousness in all details (including doing one's homework beforehand- research baby, research) and be prepared to devote as much time as necessary to the project. As with everything else in life, you get out of it what you put into it.
I admit I am a novice, but this is the source I found that convinced me to try this method.
http:/
I guess I should have a tack cloth to make sure the steel wool is thoroughly removed. I can't find a substitute for 0000 steel wool. What else could a guy use?
The finish produced by Armor-All and Tru-Oil is garbage, failing every waterproofness and spotting test...
Steel wool was made worthless for stocks by Bear-Tex pads... Maroon will do a nice job of replacing OOOO steel wool.
After many, many folks have done a simple test board with sanded slurry finish versus straight oil, not a single person has thought the sanded slurry looked as good as straight oil. But don't trust me and my results, do it for yourself... it is very quick and easy.
Do the same with the Armor-All... Just do it outside and away from anything else you may use for finishing wood. It will produce a huge contamination ring around everything you touch. It is nearly impossible to get it out of wood once applied.
Steel wool was made worthless for stocks by Bear-Tex pads... Maroon will do a nice job of replacing OOOO steel wool.
After many, many folks have done a simple test board with sanded slurry finish versus straight oil, not a single person has thought the sanded slurry looked as good as straight oil. But don't trust me and my results, do it for yourself... it is very quick and easy.
Do the same with the Armor-All... Just do it outside and away from anything else you may use for finishing wood. It will produce a huge contamination ring around everything you touch. It is nearly impossible to get it out of wood once applied.
I don't even allow WD-40, ArmorAll, or anything else with silicone in it to be brought into my shop. Even though I use WD-40 as an initial water displacer (hence its name) after the last carding in a rust bluing job, I take it outside for that, and then go straight home with the parts so as not to allow even one molecule of the stuff to invade my workspace.
I have used ultrafine bronze wool to rub finishes out, but that stuff is really hard to find. I usually resort to good old rottenstone, but there's a learning curve to its use for uniform results.
I have used ultrafine bronze wool to rub finishes out, but that stuff is really hard to find. I usually resort to good old rottenstone, but there's a learning curve to its use for uniform results.
Synthetic steel wool, 0000:
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2005502/44509/Norton-Non-Woven-Sanding-Pad-1pc-White-0000.aspx
http:/
Craigster,thanks for that tip and the link. I just ordered some.
Yeah, thanks! I ordered some of the white ones too. I didn't know they made them finer than the grey shades which I have used for other stuff.
I researched for a long time and planned to use Pro-Custom Oil as suggested by a member here but Brownell's was out. I looked for an alternative and found a lot of people using Waterlox.
I recently refinished a 1950's Marlin 336A stock with Waterlox, wet sanded with Mirka 1000g and 1500g paper to smooth any imperfection with soft rubber sanding block. It turned out far better than my previous jobs with Tung oil and steel wool.
It has a very light sheen and the pores are filled.
I recently refinished a 1950's Marlin 336A stock with Waterlox, wet sanded with Mirka 1000g and 1500g paper to smooth any imperfection with soft rubber sanding block. It turned out far better than my previous jobs with Tung oil and steel wool.
It has a very light sheen and the pores are filled.
I use the gray ones. I've got the white ones but fail to see that they are aggressive enough to do anything. A cleaned used gray pad is less aggressive then a new one.
For an easy to use finish that replicates the Winchester finish, you need to check out Timberluxe. The Timberluxe website has a video showing how to use the product to repair a stock's finish without stripping and completely refinishing. I have used both Timberluxe's stain and finish on a Winchester 52 Sporter that had too light wood. The stain penetrated the existing finish and Timberluxe finish gave the stock the proper red/brown color and appropriate oil finish level of sheen.
Wouldn't "penetration" compromise the integrity of the original finish, thus establishing a shaky foundation for anything you lay down on top of it?
It would but paint does not really "stain" if you catch my drift.
Worked fine for me, you should give it a try before being so quick to offer criticism.
The fact you think I have not tested it is funny... There comes a point where the obvious is just that. I do not ever guess without pointing out it is a guess.
gunswizard, you may have noticed that Sitka only offers criticism. Maybe at one time he offered help or useful suggestions, but now all he does is rant at anyone with any sort of idea that they didn't get directly from him. Undoubtedly, he does know what he's doing and may even be quite good at it, but his attitude is 'somewhat' negative. He could offer helpful suggestions just as easily as he rants on. It does occur to me that if he actually did that, others may pick away at his suggestions and he could wind up being exposed, as was the Wizard of Oz in the movie of that name - just an old guy with a megaphone and no more knowledge than anyone else.
Honestly, I wish he did offer suggestions or tips. I'd be willing to listen, and heaven knows that it'd be much more pleasant than what he spouts nowdays.
Honestly, I wish he did offer suggestions or tips. I'd be willing to listen, and heaven knows that it'd be much more pleasant than what he spouts nowdays.
Work hard for an even, lint/dust speck free finish. Then rip the hell out of it with great big scratches using steel wool. Then partially fill in the scratches with soft paste wax so it doesn't look absolutely like hell because the scratches are too big and all different sizes. 
See, Sitka isn't the only critic here.
I believe it was Sitka who explained the method of starting with an oil modified varnish and increasing the proportion of oil as you go. That method has been around a long time. Then, when the finish is as hard as it gets rub down with pumice on felt pads, or FINE abrasive of choice. That makes uniform fine scratches in the finish which cuts the gloss to the level you like. Or you can just use Tru-Oil which is an oil modified resin. (Resin sounds better than varnish.) No point in thinning it except it's easier to get the first few applications on (brush). Yes it is more work.
The only use I've ever had for steel wool is to level a finish and that was before nonferrous alternatives.
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, there is no accounting for taste. But I feel better getting that off my chest after holding back on this and the other thread.
See, Sitka isn't the only critic here.
I believe it was Sitka who explained the method of starting with an oil modified varnish and increasing the proportion of oil as you go. That method has been around a long time. Then, when the finish is as hard as it gets rub down with pumice on felt pads, or FINE abrasive of choice. That makes uniform fine scratches in the finish which cuts the gloss to the level you like. Or you can just use Tru-Oil which is an oil modified resin. (Resin sounds better than varnish.) No point in thinning it except it's easier to get the first few applications on (brush). Yes it is more work.
The only use I've ever had for steel wool is to level a finish and that was before nonferrous alternatives.
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, there is no accounting for taste. But I feel better getting that off my chest after holding back on this and the other thread.
Haters just gotta hate...
Where was your earliest exposure to increasing the oil cut on a spar varnish finish? I have no references to it older than about 30 years. My father wrote about it then in Guns and Ammo...
Where was your earliest exposure to increasing the oil cut on a spar varnish finish? I have no references to it older than about 30 years. My father wrote about it then in Guns and Ammo...
I think Newell mentioned using oil with resin in changing proportions but I could very well be wrong. The book "Gunsmithing" did mention using oil with resin and as I recall increasing the proportion of oil in the later coats. "Gunsmithing" was a reprint of articles published by Wolfe, the book is out on loan so I can't check. I'll check Newell's book.
I must have gotten the varying proportions idea from an article in "Gunsmithing."
Newell, "Gunstock Finishing and Care," 1949, Stackpole
p. 131
Formula #5
Boiled linseed oil 4 oz.
Spar varnish 3 oz.
The two constituents are merely mixed together. Standard rubbing application, the same as for the other formulae, should be used.
The presence of spar varnish will increase the water resistance of the final film to a great extent. Inasmuch as these varnishes normally are not brittle adhesion will be satisfactory. Excellent lustre will be obtained from the use of this mixture and resistance to handling will be much greater than that of oil used alone. [Emphasis added. See "Oil Rubbing A Varnished Stock" below.]
Personally I do not see the value of using drying oils with varnishes. If you wish the lustre of the varnish then use it alone as mentioned in the chapter on varnishes. Great lustre obtained from the use of such varnishes may easily be cut down by the use of abrasives and rubbing compounds.
p.168 - This one always stuck with me, it's the process more than the materials.
I remember one of the first stocks I ever finished for anyone. I had a really good rubbed varnish finish on it and it looked like a million bucks, if I may say so. There was an overcritical lad who strayed in and saw it and he let me know that "that sure looks a lot better than those *'$%&# varnished stocks you had in here a while back. What have you got on that one, anyway?" At that point I casually mentioned something about a "special resin solution" and let it go at that.
p. 174
Oil Rubbing A Varnished Stock
Maybe some of you want the old Dull London Oil Finish which has been so long admired and so seldom produced. This can be effected over the fine, durable varnish base by actually using oil... We built up our primary film when we built up the varnish coating on the wood.
Once you have gotten this builtup varnish base take a boiled linseed oil and spread a little on the stock. Then, using the palm of your hand, really go after it. Rub as hard and as fast as you can. Spread the oil completely over the stock in a very thin film until the film is so warm and thin that it seems almost dry. You will not need more than about ten drops of the oil to completely cover the stock. Set the stock away in a fairly warm place for 36 hours, or until the oil seems to have completely dried. You can tell this point as the oil will remain tacky or sticky while unoxidized. As long as the stock has the least little bit of stickiness to it forget about putting any more oil on it. You can rub it from time to time while it is still wet but that is all.
When the oil has dried examine the stock. It will not have taken on the appearance you want, but it will be a start. Go after it again with another treatment of the boiled oil, rubbing hard and fast all the time. It will take about three treatments [ At least! - ed. ] to give you what you are after. You will find, however, that the stock takes on the rich, rubbed appearance of the true Dull London Oil Finish that no other treatment will bring out. When your final coat of oil has been applied and has hardened well you can then polish with the rottonstone and felt.
Newell, "Gunstock Finishing and Care," 1949, Stackpole
p. 131
Formula #5
Boiled linseed oil 4 oz.
Spar varnish 3 oz.
The two constituents are merely mixed together. Standard rubbing application, the same as for the other formulae, should be used.
The presence of spar varnish will increase the water resistance of the final film to a great extent. Inasmuch as these varnishes normally are not brittle adhesion will be satisfactory. Excellent lustre will be obtained from the use of this mixture and resistance to handling will be much greater than that of oil used alone. [Emphasis added. See "Oil Rubbing A Varnished Stock" below.]
Personally I do not see the value of using drying oils with varnishes. If you wish the lustre of the varnish then use it alone as mentioned in the chapter on varnishes. Great lustre obtained from the use of such varnishes may easily be cut down by the use of abrasives and rubbing compounds.
p.168 - This one always stuck with me, it's the process more than the materials.
I remember one of the first stocks I ever finished for anyone. I had a really good rubbed varnish finish on it and it looked like a million bucks, if I may say so. There was an overcritical lad who strayed in and saw it and he let me know that "that sure looks a lot better than those *'$%&# varnished stocks you had in here a while back. What have you got on that one, anyway?" At that point I casually mentioned something about a "special resin solution" and let it go at that.
p. 174
Oil Rubbing A Varnished Stock
Maybe some of you want the old Dull London Oil Finish which has been so long admired and so seldom produced. This can be effected over the fine, durable varnish base by actually using oil... We built up our primary film when we built up the varnish coating on the wood.
Once you have gotten this builtup varnish base take a boiled linseed oil and spread a little on the stock. Then, using the palm of your hand, really go after it. Rub as hard and as fast as you can. Spread the oil completely over the stock in a very thin film until the film is so warm and thin that it seems almost dry. You will not need more than about ten drops of the oil to completely cover the stock. Set the stock away in a fairly warm place for 36 hours, or until the oil seems to have completely dried. You can tell this point as the oil will remain tacky or sticky while unoxidized. As long as the stock has the least little bit of stickiness to it forget about putting any more oil on it. You can rub it from time to time while it is still wet but that is all.
When the oil has dried examine the stock. It will not have taken on the appearance you want, but it will be a start. Go after it again with another treatment of the boiled oil, rubbing hard and fast all the time. It will take about three treatments [ At least! - ed. ] to give you what you are after. You will find, however, that the stock takes on the rich, rubbed appearance of the true Dull London Oil Finish that no other treatment will bring out. When your final coat of oil has been applied and has hardened well you can then polish with the rottonstone and felt.
While these are similar in ways they are still miles apart as application methods, which is the point with my suggestion.
BLO is junk for finish...
The concept of starting with straight spar varnish and adding oil to refill the container is so the make-up of the finish will change gradually as you get closer to the surface.
Being well past the days of expensive finish oil, application with a heavy hand, allowing it to dry and wiping dry is hugely easier than the above methods.
Adding a top coat of oil works on most varnishes, but not all. It would be a shame to go through a bunch of work just to find out it does not work...
The method I detailed I believe was unique at the time my father started using it, significantly more than 30 years ago. He changed to epoxy base coats before the oil in spar varnish article was published.
art
BLO is junk for finish...
The concept of starting with straight spar varnish and adding oil to refill the container is so the make-up of the finish will change gradually as you get closer to the surface.
Being well past the days of expensive finish oil, application with a heavy hand, allowing it to dry and wiping dry is hugely easier than the above methods.
Adding a top coat of oil works on most varnishes, but not all. It would be a shame to go through a bunch of work just to find out it does not work...
The method I detailed I believe was unique at the time my father started using it, significantly more than 30 years ago. He changed to epoxy base coats before the oil in spar varnish article was published.
art
Well yeah. I included the stuff by Newell to show that he considered oil/varnish at some level and wasn't particularly impressed, preferring varnish. His opinion of course. And I thought those reading along might be interested in a little more detail.
As I recall the proportions of Formula #5 (3 parts varnish, 4 parts oil) is about where I noticed the character of the film begin to change. Going past 3 parts varnish and 6 parts oil and it looked about the same. Wish I'd kept notes.
I think that the addition of oil makes application easier but that may just be my technique. I started out with Tru-Oil. I tried boiled linseed and tung oil alone and while I wouldn't call them junk for finish I was less than thrilled and no contest on utility. And to reiterate the point it does look nice over varnish but not very durable insofar as the drying oil film is concerned.
I've never had good results using the gunk on - wipe off method. Not that there's anything wrong with it but it doesn't work for me. It seems that there are enough subtle differences in technique and maybe workshop conditions that one method will work well for one guy but not necessarily for the next.
As I recall the proportions of Formula #5 (3 parts varnish, 4 parts oil) is about where I noticed the character of the film begin to change. Going past 3 parts varnish and 6 parts oil and it looked about the same. Wish I'd kept notes.
I think that the addition of oil makes application easier but that may just be my technique. I started out with Tru-Oil. I tried boiled linseed and tung oil alone and while I wouldn't call them junk for finish I was less than thrilled and no contest on utility. And to reiterate the point it does look nice over varnish but not very durable insofar as the drying oil film is concerned.
I've never had good results using the gunk on - wipe off method. Not that there's anything wrong with it but it doesn't work for me. It seems that there are enough subtle differences in technique and maybe workshop conditions that one method will work well for one guy but not necessarily for the next.
Apply heavily and wipe dry after a short wait does not look as good initially, but the eventual build is going to happen and the sheen is produced after the fact, regardless of the appearance of the oil.
Old school rub-in produces a weaker finish because the oil is being heated and rubbed around, compromising linking of the polymers. Being somewhat plastic the layer will do some fusing over time, but alligatoring is more likely when layering on varnish.
Old school rub-in produces a weaker finish because the oil is being heated and rubbed around, compromising linking of the polymers. Being somewhat plastic the layer will do some fusing over time, but alligatoring is more likely when layering on varnish.
Maybe I'm too impatient. And then rubbing on a stock makes you feel like you're actually doing something. In an article Carmichel wise-cracked rubbing oil on a stock was a sensual experience. (Rubbing oil on a woman kind of sensual that is!)
this thread is useless without pictures!!!
That's one way to settle the arguments! Post pics
Mike
That's one way to settle the arguments! Post pics
Mike
This discussion is much like the ones arguing over the 260 Remington versus the 6.5 creedmore, or the 270 versus the 06. My point being that the issue will not be settled.
Very early in this chat I mentioned that I was finishing a stock with Waterlox Original in Satin. That stuff is expensive and I've used it on several indoor projects, but never on a gunstock. Review and discussions on the internet said good things about it, and I had some, so I used it. Turned out great. I couldn't be more pleased. Durability, once cured, is an unknown but time will tell. Sure looks good though. I did do a final rub-out with steel wool and wax, which Sitka says will cause the stock to rust out like an old Allis-Chalmers tractor fender. But...I'm not worried.
Very early in this chat I mentioned that I was finishing a stock with Waterlox Original in Satin. That stuff is expensive and I've used it on several indoor projects, but never on a gunstock. Review and discussions on the internet said good things about it, and I had some, so I used it. Turned out great. I couldn't be more pleased. Durability, once cured, is an unknown but time will tell. Sure looks good though. I did do a final rub-out with steel wool and wax, which Sitka says will cause the stock to rust out like an old Allis-Chalmers tractor fender. But...I'm not worried.
why not use what a professional stockmaker uses?
http://www.customgunandrifle.com/in...amp;view=article&id=15&Itemid=14
http://www.customgunandrifle.com/in...
I was just trying to taunt some gun porn high quality wood pics outta folks that I know (Sitka) have a couple safes worth to show off! 
Mike
Mike
Originally Posted by 22WRF
why not use what a professional stockmaker uses?
http://www.customgunandrifle.com/in...amp;view=article&id=15&Itemid=14
http://www.customgunandrifle.com/in...
Because Duane is using wood most will never began to match in their stocks. I have seen quite a bit of Duane's work and it is spectacular! But a lot of what he does is stuff that is not done the easy way.
Because the wood he uses is so tight-grained he gets away with sanding some mud into the pores to fill them... AFTER he has them mostly filled.
He has a particular style that he uses and the Alkinet root red stain is a big part of it. It is about taste.
Originally Posted by ready_on_the_right
I was just trying to taunt some gun porn high quality wood pics outta folks that I know (Sitka) have a couple safes worth to show off!
Mike
Mike
Now don't go giving 603 the idea he is arguing with someone with a clue or he will stop posting his comedy routine...