I am getting ready to refinish a stock. Normally I have used True Oil. it seems to require a lot of coats and is tedious. The positive attributes is that is easy to refinish if you have accidents. Also, I have tried polyurethane but always seem to get runs. What are alternatives and do they all require multiple coats. I will be satisfied with a good waterproof satin finish. It is on a hunting rifle. Nothing fancy required.
Lacquer is probably the toughest gun stock finish you can find and relatively easy to put on. Get a couple rattle cans of satin finish Lacquer at your local Home Depot and put it on with several light coats until you have the coverage you want. Let it dry a few days and go hunting.
Of course, prep is important as in all finishes. Either strip the existing finish down to wood or sand it down to a good, flat surface.
Bob
Never use a satin finish for anything you actually want to protect... The flattening agents in finish are usually silica and do nothing positive for the finish. It is less durable and far less waterproof.
To get a satin finish use gloss finish and then knock the shine off with either rottenstone in mineral oil of felt or use Bear-Tex pads.
Use this stuff. Very forgiving to use and is tough stuff. Knock it down with rottonstone once fully dried.
http://item.brownells.com/brands/ch...unstock-finish-pro-custom-oil-finish.htm
If you go with lacquer over either a stripped bare wood stock or one you have sanded down but have not gotten to bare wood you want to hit a coat or two of shellac as a sealer prior to the lacquer. putting lacquer over some finishes mat result in the lacquer eating away at what previous finish is still on the wood. if it does though, don't worry, you'll know it!
If your getting runs, you are applying way too much finish at a time. Wipe on, wipe off. A slightly wet pad & many coats are all you need.
A stock refinishing sticky would be nice.
Try timberluxe by Brian Board . . . Great stuff!
+1 on Timberluxe, easy to use and produces great results. Check the website for an instructional video. I have used both the finish and the stain, only thing is I wish the stain was available in a smaller container.
Gunswizard, what did you use the finish on. Does the Timberluxe go on before or after the stain?
I used the finish on a Springfield 1922 M2 stock and a Winchester M/52 Sporter stock. On the M2 I applied the stain first and then the finish, the M/52 stock was already finished and I wanted to darken it so I applied the stain and it penetrated thru the existing finish. I was satisfied with both jobs.
To EdM; I went ahead and got the Pro Custom Oil from Brownells. After I installed pillars, I stripped the stock (it was a Boyds stock - walnut classic) and wet sanded up to 400 Grit using paint thinner. Then 0000 steel wool rub down. So far I have done 2 coats and I am impressed. The Boyds finish had been mudded so it was featureless. Underneath it is a good looking piece of black walnut. It should finish out very well. Thank you for the tip EdM. Been puttering with it about a week now. Patience, Patience Patience.
Any pics? I have used True oil also and was happy with the results but always looking for other ideas. Sanding with paint thinner is a good tip, thanks
I just used Waterlox to complete this stock. It was a breeze to use and went on very nice.
Buffed with a Mr. Clean majic eraser it came out perfect.
https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbth.../1/1959_Alaskan_Re-Stock_project_#UNREAD
To EdM; I went ahead and got the Pro Custom Oil from Brownells. After I installed pillars, I stripped the stock (it was a Boyds stock - walnut classic) and wet sanded up to 400 Grit using paint thinner. Then 0000 steel wool rub down. So far I have done 2 coats and I am impressed. The Boyds finish had been mudded so it was featureless. Underneath it is a good looking piece of black walnut. It should finish out very well. Thank you for the tip EdM. Been puttering with it about a week now. Patience, Patience Patience.
Great to hear. It really is great stuff.
I strip the stock sand down till there is no fuzz sticking up when wet. Then I put 2 coats of boiled linseed oil and let dry for a few days then start applying spray lacquer and use 000 steel wool in between coats till all grain is filled in. Steel wool one last time and use a wax and buff it. Comes out nice and durable. And a satin finish.
I second the Pro Stock Custom Oil. Good stuff. Waterlox sounds interesting. From what I understand it's a modern high quality spar varnish. I have used it for other applications, but I am intrigued with spar varnishes for gun stock work. They sound like an all-in-one pour filler and final finish.