Any guess what the problem might be with the bolt release on a Rem 700 action? I took the bolt out to scope the rifle and had trouble getting the release to release the bolt, finally it released the bolt but when I put bolt back in action could not get release to work so bolt simply slides in & out of the action. Thanks

The 700 bolt release is very prone to binding due to the parts rubbing on the inside of the stock. Pull the action out of the stock and look at how simple the release is... it is possible gunk got into the lever pinned in the action rather than the linkage... WD40 is great for causing that.

Thanks will do! Thanks

WD40 is a perfect product if you want build up of gunk. It has no proper usage on a gun of any sort.

Also check to see if the bolt release tab is binding in the bolt stop groove. Slightly bending the tab can do wonders if it's binding.

Sitka is right about stuff like WD-40 gunking up the works, causing the bolt stop to stick. You about gotta take it apart and sometimes it takes steel wool, etc. to get that varnish off the parts. Blasting it with brake cleaner, etc. usually doesn't cut that stuff.

Use WD-40 on farm equipment, keep it away from padlocks, guns, anything with small parts that interact.

DF

I've bought several Remington 721's, 722's and 700's with that problem and a good spray down with one of the crud cutter formulations with a little application tube while you work the release will usually free it up. You have to get it down in the little slot where the bolt release pivots and underneath the slider alongside the trigger housing. It make take several applications and be sure to wear your safety glasses/googles because those little nooks and crannies tend to spit the stuff back at you.

Yep, that's also been my experience....

I'd not be satisfied until I had taken it apart, cleaned each piece and put it back together. Then, I'd know what I had.

Just me.

DF

Mine was due to bedding compound in the recess the bolt release is intended to fill. Carved some out and it worked just like before.

BTDT...

DF

What would be your guess with a new custom gun? I have taken it out of the stock & everything works good but I have not found where release is binding against the stock. 2nd question, If you had never seen a McMillin stock how would you know if it was or not? BTW I don't use WD-40 on anything other than bolts & nuts.

Put a thin coat of inletting black or Prussian blue on the bolt stop. Put the barreled action back in the stock and look for signs of the inletting black or Prussian blue on the internal surfaces of the stock.

FWIW, I have several McM stocks and have yet to have an issue with the bolt stop not working. My next build(d) will see there way to having side bolt releases installed, though.

The side bolt release is a nice touch.

DF

Is it a stock remington trigger or an aftermarket trigger?

Jewell's have a habit of binding if the stock isn't relieved, they're wider than the factory trigger and the bolt release linkage touches the stock if the stock isn't relieved. It's an easy fix.

If it works out of the stock but binds when you put it in the stock then it's rubbing. Figure out where it's at sand a little bit of the stock.

I could not POSSIBLY agree more...

The release is like a Remington but the trigger is a Timney. Have found out that with the trigger guard snugged down release sticks---with triger guard loose or removed release works as it should. Still have not found where it is binding. Give me your suggestion!!!

I got tired of playing that game, and had side releases installed on my only two remingtons.

PS, wd40 is good stuff on battery terminals.

I like Ballistol. It's non petroleum and doesn't gum up. It even works with BP, something that the petro based solvents won't do. The cowboy action BP shooters mix it with water to make their "pigeon milk" concoction.

And, Ballistol won't varnish up or gum up. It does well with leather and wood. Almost a "cure all", snake oil type product...

The Germans developed it many years ago, it's been around longer than WD-40.

DF

Classic binding of a Timney by the trigger guard.

Put the bottom metal in a padded vice, trigger guard down. Take your Dremel and "mill" a slot on each side of the trigger opening to accommodate the wider Timney. I do this all the time. The Timney sticks down farther and is wider than the factory trigger.

That should fix it.

DF

Just mill the slot deep enough to accommodate the trigger, not deep enough to see the cut from inside the trigger guard.

Probably 3/16" wide and about that deep, both sides. Hold the bottom metal next to the action and scribe with a Sharpie the area where the trigger interacts with the bottom metal and cut out that area.

DF

Or, just pull it down with your finger nail or the tip of a knife blade.

No need and making this sheit more complicated than it needs to be.

If the bottom metal is binding the Timney, gotta fix it.

DF