Does anyone know the number of LPI on the checkering pattern of the CZ 550 FS factory stock? I'm refinishing my stock and want to re-cut the pattern.

Without trying to sound too facetious lay a ruler down and count.

Undoubtedly helpful. Thanks.

The pattern on a European made gun will likely be laid out using millimeters. Good luck finding multi-row cutters spaced accordingly. For that matter, no matter what the spacing is, one never ever tries to use a multi-row cutter to freshen up existing checkering. They are merely for initial lay-out. Rarely will, say, a new 22LPI double row cutter perfectly match an older 22LPI pattern. Slight differences in tolerances, etc. make that wishful thinking. Best to just lay in a couple single row cutters and have at it one row at a time. Set them up in their own handles with them faced to cut both on the push and pull stroke (always pull the line away from the border, never push into the border), and a short cutter to get into tight places, and a veining tool or riffling file for ditto. If the pattern has a border, then you'll need the proper tool for that, too. Use coarse cutters for initial disruption of finish and grime in the old pattern, and fine cutters to finish it up.

Probably the most important tool is the one sitting between your ears. Wear a pair of magnifiers so you can see right down into the depths of the pattern, have good lighting and a firm rest. Stop the minute you get fatigued, or your mind starts to wander, you get sleepy, or you get interrupted. Don't listen to heavy metal or punk rock- choose something pastoral for background music if you need to listen to something. Ignore this advice only if you don't care about run-overs, uneven depth of lines, and criss-crossed lines.

Thanks.

What gnoahhh said. Multi-line tools are primarily for laying out the pattern. Single cutters to bring to full depth, easier to control. Then a bent needle file or similar tool to refine and point up the diamonds.

If it's your first try GO SLOWLY and take lots of breaks. An easy mistake when re-cutting is to dig out too much wood in the center giving the checkering a "wallowed out" appearance.

Thread gauges from your auto parts store if nowhere else work well for measuring lines per inch or lines per millimeter - cheap.

Oh yeah, the needle file is a good tool to straighten out a line if the cutter hits a funky spot in the wood and runs out sideways.

Thanks for all the tips, they make a lot of sense. I've found out the hard way that patience is my friend as I work my way through lots of rookie mistakes. I'm very close to final sanding of the stock and pleased with the work so far. Not perfect by any means but close to what I had in mind when I started out.

A friend who does professional woodworking and cabinetmaking has offered to do the finish and I believe I'll take him up on it, as this seems that this is the most mystical part of the stockwork.

I checked the checkering yesterday and found the diamonds surprisingly sharp. I'll need to examine it under magnification to determine whether to refinish the pattern. We'll see.

Pics when done, please!

On those I've refinished that had good checkering I scrubbed with mineral spirits and toothbrush, and touched up with an appropriate angle bent needle file or riffler. Gets all the debris out and the fine cut of the file refines the shape and sort of polishes the wood. Better than original, it's time consuming and often skipped.

thread gauges! That's brilliant,thanks!