I am attempting to re-blue an old revolver just for the fun of it and looking for recommendations.
Thanks
Doug

Oxpho Blue.

+ one on oxpho blue

Tried several over the years, currently using Oxpho Blue. Previously used Van's.

Thanks for the replies. Any preference liquid over cream?
I'm going to order some today.
Any tips or suggestion regarding metal prep and application?

I have always used liquid Oxpho Blue, many here prefer the cream for ease of application and uniform coverage.

There have been many posts about prepping for cold blue success. Why not try searching?

RAN

'cause the search function on this site urks me.

Besides, if you are going to reduce this forum down to the function is a search then we might as well close up shop and turn it into an archive. That's no fun. I +1 on the Oxpho blue. Try multiple applications with steel wooling inbetween and a good soaking in Rem Oil when finished - preferably on a hot day when you can put the part out under the sun. That's my $0.02 worth.

easiest and most effective campfire search on the subject:

site:www.24hourcampfire cold blue

Once you are satisfied with the results of bluing, rinse under hot running water to remove any remaining bluing solution. Dry with paper towel and I like to use Birchwood Casey Shield or Barricade as it's now called, leave this set for 24-48 hours wipe off with paper towel and apply Renassaince (or other) Wax and buff with a micro-fiber cloth.

Ordered some Oxpho Blue and Dicropan T-4. Going to try a combination of the two.

Thanks Again
Doug

There are two cold blue products I've used a number of the times in the past with good results. Oxpho Blue and Blue Wonder. Either one should do a decent job.

Have seen an Oxpho blue job done by a gunsmith. Have to think the guy dipped the barreled action in Oxpho. Owner of the barreled action also owned a small gun store. He too was stunned by how well the Oxpho looked.

As to Blue Wonder, prep for it is more tedious, but if I want the best looking cold blue job on a rifle, I'll use it. Recall day, I took a Ruger rifle back to a gunsmith a week or so after he'd put a chrome-molly barrel on it. I'd used Blue Wonder on the barrel after I'd picked up the rifle from the gunsmith. So happens, the gunsmith is outside when I arrived with the finished rifle and I show it to him. It's a bright sunny day and he's holding the rifle. Has a puzzled look on his face...asks me if the barrel was already blued when he installed it. The gunsmith was on the elderly side of life....I chuckled, saying, no you're not getting absent minded. I used Blue Wonder on the barrel. He smiled, commenting that Blue Wonder was good stuff. He used it himself.

4-0 steel wool between coats sorta burnishes the finish.

DF

Well they got here Saturday. I'll be doing a barrel first. Kinda anxious probably have some time Tuesday or Wednesday.

Get it hot and keep it hot for best results!

I pour boiling water on the metal to heat it and wear a glove.

And do not use a cotton swab to apply it. Most cotton has lanolin in it . I use a fine artist brush. Just keep it wet and warm and keep applying coats.

A fine artist's brush? How long does it take to do a whole rifle?

For Oxpho I pretty much follow the directions. I start with 00 steel wool for the first pass and kinda scrub it in. Then it's thick cotton patches unless a problem develops and then it's back to steel wool. You really don't need to de-oil the steel wool but I do anyway just because it feels right.

Brownell's updated the instructions over the years as comments from users came in. Haven't checked for a while but they used to have comprehensive instructions on their web site including how-to videos. They want you to get great results so they can sell more.

Actually for a revolver I think I'd try their Dicropan T-4 blue but might end up with Oxpho anyway. I don't like Formula 44/40 which, by the way, was not developed by Brownell's.

I use a brush that fits the job and i never do a whole gun with cold blue. A clean finger will work on spots that don't want to take bluing. I dont know what brand i'm useing. I buy it from a old guy that sell bluing and stock finish at the gunshows. He shows you how to use it at the shows. I'll have to check the brand.

The cold bluing that i am useing is made by vans

Yep, heat is key to a good finish but so is proper cleaning of the parts and degreasing the steel wool. I find several applications are needed to get a good blue.

And when you're done make sure you get all the parts cleaned or they'll keep rusting.