I have an early 1960's production Sako L61R Finnbear, Magnum action in .300 H&H Magnum. See the pics below for details of it's present bedding. It shoots fair-to-good with some loads but is quite finicky. This is not the factory stock.

The bottom of the recoil lug sits down hard and tight on a .020" brass shim that sits in the recess ahead of the stock reinforcement bolt. The barrel channel has been relieved enough to free float the barrel. It would be easy to relieve it some more so the brass shim would not be needed. The back, lower edge of the recoil lug bears directly against the stock reinforcement bolt.

I know that on most Mauser type actions, with recoil lug machined as part of the receiver, you should relieve the stock so the underside of the lug doesn't bear against the stock.

Questions I have:

Should the Sako be bedded similarly to a Mauser with clearance under the recoil lug?

Should I glass bed the area around the stock reinforcement bolt so that the entire back surface of the lug is evenly supported?

What other bedding advice can you give me for a vintage Sako?

Below are photos of the rifle.

BTW: I'm hunting elk and mule deer with it next week.

Inside stock showing location of brass shim and stock reinforcement bolt. Note impression of bottom of recoil lug on the shim:


Shim closeup:


Sako L61R Finnbear Magnum action recoil lug area:


Inside forend showing sanded area where barrel channel was relieved:

Not sure whether it's right or wrong, but I left some relief under the lug on my L61R that I re-barreled to 280 Rem.
FWIW, I'd seal the barrel channel before taking to the field again.

WiFowler, I've already sealed that forearm and the rest of the inside of the stock with several coats of polyurethane spar varnish. I went ahead and sanded the barrel channel deeper so that I could get rid of that brass shim, but I think the bottom of the lug still bears against the stock.

I'll shoot it in the morning to see if it behaves.

BTW: How does your .280 shoot?

Thanks,
Tim

On the Sako actions, I would clear the bottom of the lug only if I planned to bed the first inch or so of barrel. If the barrel was to float entirely, the bottom of the lug was bedded.
I always bedded all around the crossbolt. In actual fact, the crossbolt could have been left out and it and it would have been better. Since it's there, it makes some sense to flatten the rear surface of the crossbolt and bed behind it. GD

The action, no matter which one (Win, Rem, Mauser, etc..) should always be bedded in the area around where the action screws enter the action. In the case of the Sako that is the lug, so the lug should be bedded on the bottom and rear, but should have clearance on the front and I usually clearance the side of the lug. If the bolt doesn't go into the lug, I will always float the bottom of the lug. You can two point, pillar, or full length bed the action if you like but always directly under the screws. Otherwise you are bending the action as the front screw is drawn up. I usually bed the first inch of barrel and can always remove that if needed but it usually doesn't make a difference as long as the action is bedded with no stress.

^^^^^

Can't say that it's a tack-driver, but it does well so far. Factory Federals w/150gr NP, shoot MOA. Still working on some loads so there should be some improvement.

FWIW, When I re-barreled my L61R, I chose a light #2 (more like #1 1/2) contour S/S barrel. IMHO, with light barrel contours it's a little harder to find the sweet spot when reloading. Those barrels can be like buggy whips, and harmonics play into the reloading equation much more so than heavier barrel contours.

Thanks guys for the good info!

Tim

I bedded my 1968 Bofors 338 three years ago with no clearance between the bottom of the lug and the bedding material. I've bedded over 250 rifles and always got my best results with Sakos bedding them full length. This time, however, I only bedded the action and 2" of barrel. She shoots 225 grain North Forks into 4/10" groups all day (Interlocks too).

I don't think the gap between the bottom of the lug and the bedding material is as critical with a Sako as it is a Remington because the lug is not as long. Just an opinion though. Bedding full length or action +2" ....I've always been able to get my Sakos to shoot 1/2 to 3/4 MOA.