I have a 722 in 257. Extraction is great but ejection is very weak with a loaded round. Empty brass ejects fine. The ejector, ejector spring and retaining pin have all been replaced. Any ideas?

Not sure what you mean by "weak" ejection of loaded rounds, empty cases ejecting OK. Need more info, better description of what's actually happening.

DF

An empty case will eject from the action and fall to the ground. A loaded round will normally just fall back into the action instead of being kicked out.

The extractor is worn and not holding onto the loaded round tight enough. Round disengages from the extractor before being pulled far enough to rear for the ejector to work.
Replace the extractor.

Well, a 722 extractor can become an issue, or so I've heard.

I'd check around with smiths here on the Fire. A number of really good ones are active contributors. Would probably just need to send the bolt.

DF

722 extractors are damn near impossible to find. I happen to have one for a 222 but not a .473 bolt face.

May convert to AR or Sako extractor.

DF

I've been reading up on that.

+1 on converting to alternative extractor. I have done several of each, leaning toward the AR style, they seem to be more rugged.

timspawn;
Good afternoon to you sir, I trust other than a lethargic rifle ejection issue that this finds you well.

We picked up a .250AI for our youngest daughter that had a 722 action.

Like your rifle, every once in awhile it'd either just barely clear the ejection port or sometimes the empty would drop back into the magazine.

What I determined is happening is that the extractor is rotating to a spot where it's holding the case okay, but when the ejector hits the case because it's too close one gets less than enthusiastic ejection.

If you rotate the extractor then - I want to say it worked best at 9:00 or 10:00, but could be backwards on that - anyway rotating it so it wasn't so close to the ejector worked on hers.

Oh, because its not pinned in place - it can and in her rifle does rotate back to a place where it doesn't work well again after awhile.

We've looked at both installing an AR/Sako type extractor and having a 700 one installed. Either option isn't cheap and honestly getting a 700 short action bolt and starting there might be the easiest way to go.

Anyway hope that helps a bit and was useful. Good luck with your rifle and all the best to you this fall.

Dwayne

Thank you BC30cal. I rotated the extractor to several different positions and it didn't change anything. I did notice that if I work the bolt slowly it ejects better than if worked fast.

Maybe working it slow presents less force to dislodge the case from the marginally effective extractor. Sounding more and more like a Sako or AR retrofit.

DF

Use the AR as it has a cross pin and is longer. It is not so easily blown out from a hot load.

Several smiths posting here on the Fire have jigs and tooling to do the job.

Mayby one will chime in.

DF

My 722's extractor would leave cases in the chamber. I sent it to Gretan for a M16 style extractor. Sent him a peice of lapua brass, so he could fit it properly for the thickest bras I was going to use. Bolt came back great, works like a charm. I'd recommend this route for sure.

With all the Remington 721s and 722s still in circulation, Im surprised nobody has manufactured an after market extractor.

I have the fixtures to install either a Sako or M-16 extractor. I have installed many over the years.

I have a 721 that I built for myself in 30-06 30 years ago and it has a Sako extractor. It has never failed. Mostly use M-16 types now. I like the idea of a cross pin attachment.

I came across of a bag of 17 .473 extractors for the 720 series rifles when I bought out a retiring gunsmith last year, he sure did have some goodies he wasent aware he had.

For those of us with these guns, what's a ball park cost of that conversion?

DF

Ironic, something designed to be cheaply machine made from flat steel is so hard to copy, one off. If it was finely machined, someone could use modern machining tools to make a reasonably priced copy.

I guess you give up the magic three rings of steel with an AR or Sako extractor.

But, if the OEM extractor never failed, we wouldn't be having this discussion, it wouldn't be an issue.

DF

Several years back I had a similar experience with my 722 .257 Bob. right after I got it. After installing a new extractor and still having the non-ejection issue I too looked at getting a Sako style extractor installed. Turns out the rim on the brass (W&W +P) was smaller in diameter than spec. by few 1000th's. This was discovered after gunsmith had me try different manf. brass. Federal and Remington cycled without issue. Unfortunately for me I had purchased a bulk supply (500+ rds.) of factory primed W&W +P brass. Gunsmith had me put an aluminum shim (cut from aluminum can) behind the extractor. Voila problem solved.

An aluminum shim behind the extractor sounds like a neat idea. That may be worth a try before going to the expense of a retrofit AR/Sako extractor.

DF

2 lug bolts aren't a good fit for Sako/M16 extractors imo. The extractor winds up pointing down the raceway. On a 3 lug the extractor is safer and doesn't line up with a raceway. There are smiths who won't install Sako extractors for this reason.

Ball park, I get $85.00 for either a AR or Sako conversion. Most gunsmith's are around $100.00 to $125.00 for a average. I have a mill set up to do just this conversion, that's why I do it for $85.00. Keep in mind the the Sako extractor kits costs me $32.15 and the AR kits are $34.99

I'd say that was more than fair.

DF

I'm going to start with the shim tonight. I haven't shot the rifle yet so I don't know if it's a keeper or not.

Let us know how that works.

It sure makes sense; it's the first I heard of that fix.

Interesting.

DF

What is the best way to remove the extractor?

I never had to remove one.

What I would do is put the bolt in a padded vice, hold a small screwdriver, etc. on one end of the extractor, use a pointed tool to work under the other edge and just peal it out of the recess. I have a couple of those pointed gunsmith tools that would work, sorta like an extra fine ice pick.

Others (who have actually done it ) may want to chime in and let us know if they have a better way.

DF

Dental picks is what I use, be careful not to over bend it

There might be something on utube showing this there's everything else on it

I checked the youtube, didn't find anything. I have a bunch of dental picks and started there but stopped to ask if there was a better way. I also tried snap ring pliers but they were a bit too big.

This tool I was trying to describe looks sorta like a robust dental pick, made for gunsmith work, straight on one end, 90* on the other. Brownells has them.

DF

Did you buy said bag of extractors and if so, are you willing to sell one?

222 and mag size extractors are not too hard to find. 308 size are hard. I have a 721 in 6mm that has an extractor which is less than perfect. I think, now that PD season is coming to a close, I'll try to bend it a little in hopes to get it 'right'. I think that the extractor has been modified somewhat in the past, (before bugger).

I too would be interested in a half a bag of extractors.

Gemby's price sounds very good.

I too would be concerned about gas handling capabilities of a modified bolt though.

That bag came with all the parts I bought, I gave 35 grand for close to if not over 85 grand of parts. Still doing inventory.

The Sako extractor requires milling a slot in the bolt and compromising Remingtons 'three rings of steel', not good if there is a blown case or primer. Also read somewhere that the Sako extractor ejects at a different angle and the case will hit certain scopes and drop back into the magazine box.
Btw, original Remington extractors can be found, picked up two a year or so ago.

Btw, original Remington extractors can be found, picked up two a year or so ago. [/quote]

For Remington 721, 722 and 725 rifles? 700 yes

How hard would it be to mill and drill a 722/721 bolt to retrofit a 700 extractor?

Seems that should be easier than milling and fitting an AR/Sako extractor.

DF

For Remington 721, 722 and 725 rifles? 700 yes [/quote]

I'd be interested in yours or if you'd tell me where you can find one. I've been looking on and off for about 2 years with no luck.

For Remington 721, 722 and 725 rifles? 700 yes [/quote]

308 size for 721, 722 and 725....

Where can they be found? I have a 721, 270 (.473) Tried a number of "specialist" type shops/smiths that I found referenced online, but none could sell me one. "They sold the last a few years ago."...I was told more than once.

I been selling mine on ebay from time to time. Don't want to flood them out there all at once, brings the price down

What's a ballpark value, what are they bringing on EBay?

DF

I got the extractor out and it looks fine to me. Put a shim behind it, reinstalled, same problem.

Does the little protrusion that engages the rim look like it's worn down, blunted?

DF

It looks uniform and intact. It is a bit shiny where the finish is worn but I don't see any obvious defects. GPC has complete bolts for $150 but who knows the condition of the extractors. I'm sure the parts are used. I may double up the shim and try that.

Remington used to do this in their custom shop. It wasn't cheap tho... I don't know if they will anymore, I heard that they would not. I think it would be easier to send a 700 bolt.

A replacement bolt would be OK if one was re-barreling. But a replacement bolt doesn't seem to be an option otherwise. Headspace would probably become a real issue.

DF

It is quite the conundrum.

Gemby's offer to install an AR extractor may be your best bet so far.

DF

Depends if I sell them close together, any where between $56 and $85

For that price, I'd have you install an AR extractor. To me that makes more sense; AR extractors won't need a re-do...

DF

That's what they bring on ebay, I'm not the one doing the bidding

I think most Remington bolts will interchange. They had a max header bolt on a few rifles, which would not exchange with a standard bolt. I have not seen one of those since the early 70's though. Another problem would be if a person tried to place a pre-anti-bind into an action with the anti-bind feature. The bolt handle is different on the 721's, 722's, 700's and the 700 Mountain Rifles, but unless the area around the bolt handle is minimal, that should not be an issue.

I have several long action 700's and a 721 all without the anti-bind. All with the 06 size head (4ea 06's altogether.)
The bolts can be interchanged without a measurable change. Fired rounds from my 06's will chamber in any configuration bolt A in Action C etc.

I believe if I were to try the 25-06,270&280 bolts they'd interchange too.

I have lapped the bolt's lugs on the 721, and it has a take off 700 barrel on it. Each of the 700's and the 721 have close to minimum head spacing.

As a caution, If I were to interchange bolts, I'd make sure head spacing was correct. But with the exception of the max-header bolt I'd expect no issues.

If I were really particular, I would lap the new bolt into the receiver.

If I had an AR extractor installed I would never shoot the rifle again. My eye sight is worth a lot.

But that's just me.

The AR extractor, from what I know, is positioned just above the right lug, may throw the cases at a higher angle than the OEM extractor.

As I visualize the set up (don't have one to examine) seems the extractor will NOT be centered in the right raceway, but positioned lower, i.e not at 3 O'clock with the bolt closed, more like 5 O'Clock.

Now, I'm not sure how much of the extractor gap will be exposed to the raceway. And, I've read the AR extractor is tougher, less likely to blow out vs. the Sako.

Would like clarification by those who know.

DF

OP>>>>>>>>> "Empty brass ejects fine" <<<<<<<<<<<<

Upon further review empty and loaded rounds eject about the same. I added a shim under the extractor with no change, I added two shims and the only difference was that it was very hard to get the extractor to snap over the case head. I removed both shims so as not to damage the extractor. It is not a dangerous game rifle so it's not a life of death thing. It's more of an OCD thing on my part. If I work the bolt slowly it will eject just fine.

I can see how it would be a hard close with double spacers, don't know why it wouldn't work better with one spacer.

Is the chamber slick, does it need posishing?

DF

Seems buttery smooth. Extraction is not the issue, it's flipping it out of the receiver that's causing my hair loss.

Are you sure the case isn't hanging up in the bolt face recess and the ejector pin is smooth and the spring is strong.

DF

I have also installed quite a few savage extractors in remington 700's, you keep your three rings of steel

Ejector, spring and retaining pin were replaced early on in this endeavor. The case head is not binding in any way that I can see.

If ejection is the problem, then the ejector is the problem. Your new parts are not working.

The new parts work just like the old parts did. The ejector is strong.

Some people don't feel their eyesight is worth much. They will destroy the engineered bolt face and they don't care about their customers eyes either. They should be in jail. I'd testify in court for the same.

How much of the extractor gap is below the right raceway when the bolt is closed, how much is exposed to the raceway?

The AR extractor, for sure, can't blow out due to the pin and the fact that most of that part will be below the raceway, supported by the action. Only gas escaping would be thru the small crack between the extractor and the milled slot.

I would like to hear about any that blew and what happened.

DF

And wouldn't the "Hatcher Hole" help divert gas out the side vs straight back along the bolt?

I would think a pre-64 M-70 would be at greater risk of gas blow back from a blown primer than this set up.

Someone set me straight.

DF

Dirtfarmer you have it right. the extractor is now in line with the bolt lug race way when closed. M-16 Sako's and M-1 don't have three rings of steel and do not have a problem. 4.5 million axis soldiers cant be wrong.

I shot the rifle some and ejection seems to be fine now. Really flings the empties. Accuracy shows potential too.

Did you ever figure out what was going wrong and what did you do to fix it?

DF

No not really, I ended up not doing anything different to it. It's a mystery.