What is the fix for loose sling swivel studs in a painted synthetic stock? I can tighten them but they loosen up again the next time I use the rifle.

glue..........

locktite red and if you don't want glue then use some plumber tape

Use a good mixed epoxy; the 5-minute stuff should be all you need..

They won't come loose again..

Plumbers' tape is a thread lubricant...

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I was thinking either Loc-tite or 5 min epoxy. Didn’t know if Loc-tite would work with 2 different materials.
I’m a little concerned about overflow if I put too much on the threads. I suppose I could mask the holes and the top of the stud.

Any epoxy overflow is easy to wipe off if done immediately after you screw it in place..

BTDT..

Slight thread hijack, but would you use all the above for the same problem with a wood stock?

With wood just shove a couple toothpicks in the hole with some wood glue.

While it might work - for a while - a PROPER fix IMHO is to use a good epoxy..

I've had, um, 'examples' of toothpick repairs in places..

Now there ARE times when that's about all the can be done w/o doing some expensive repair, but it's up to the customer and should be discussed beforehand..

Thanks guys!

Not a gunsmith but I'd fill with epoxy, let dry, re-drill and thread the studs into the dried epoxy. I wouldn't screw the studs into wet epoxy in case I need to get them out later.

Or did I misunderstand the above treatment?

Also paste wax the stock and trim with a sharpened piece of plastic when the epoxy gets to the rubbery stage BTDT. Good where the overflow is hard to get to without removing stuff in the way. But you have to watch it because some kicks pretty fast once it gets rubbery. BTDT too

Fireball, one trick that's worked for me is to wax the threads on the screw before gluing in, epoxy filling the gap between the threads for a higher class fit.

The traditional, non-bubba way to do a wood stock is to drill out the old hole and glue in a hardwood rod. Then re-drill and thread the screw in. I have been modifying this on wood and synthetics by drilling out and epoxying in a threaded brass or steel insert that has external spines. You will not strip it and if you want, you can use the swivel to time it. Might have to change screw thread type from a wood to metal, but it is worth it.

All you need is a little on the first couple of threads.
You don't have to fill the holes full.

I have used good ole JB Weld on many many wood and synthetic stocks and never had one come loose yet

When a stud gets loose, I take it out,and use a file or grinder to flatten the threads on two sides. They can be on the opposite side or at, ie, 90 degrees.
then I take a small drill-bit and drill the hole slightly from the side, to enlarge part of the whole, on the inside.
THEN, put as much epoxy as possible into the hole.
If the stud has a nut on the inside of the stock, epoxy can be put on the threads, then some put through the nut. If you can come through the bed-side, fill the hole with epoxy...short of the barrel-line.
I have used JB Weld, Micro-Bed and at least 1/2 dozen other epoxies, and all have worked just fine.
I never wanted the stud out, afterwards, so can't speak to that, but I wanted to be able to use the sling, as a "hasty-sling," and I have been able to do that. This works wih wood, or plastic and fine-thread or wood-screw thread,
Have fun,
Gene

To follow up on this. I removed the swivel studs and found that the shank is about three quarters of an inch with a fine thread on the end so there is a nut inside the stock. Not what I expected, and the hole isn’t much larger than the shank so without doing much rework I cleaned off the threads and applied some blue Loctite and tightened them up again. If this doesn’t work I’ll probably open up the holes a size and then use some epoxy on them. This is on a Cooper Excalibur.

After checking my other guns I found a rifle with a laminated stock that had a loose rear stud so I took both studs out and did the epoxy thing on them and I doubt they’ll ever move again.

Yup!

The reason this and toothpicks are a poor fix is that you wind up with threads in end grain. Filled epoxy is better. For later removal apply heat.

Just my method agreeing with others, for both composite and wood:

1) I clean the sling swivel screw studs and screw holes in the stock thoroughly with lacquer thinner being careful not to involve the surface finish.

2) If POSSIBLE, I take a very small drill - like a 1/16" - and drill a hole or side-channel about 1/4" deep off to an angle being careful not to disfigure the hole opening on the stock. You do not want to eliminate the remaining existing female screw threads.

3) Apply a good release agent to the screw studs.

4) Using a wide piece of tape cover the holes on the stock and carefully gut away an opening in the tape.

5) Using a good, high strength epoxy, fill the holes almost full using a toothpick to force it into all areas of the holes including the new side channel you drilled.

6) Slowly insert and screw in the screw studs, so that as excess epoxy oozes out, you can clean it up - I use Q-tips. When the base of the screw stud is close to being flush with the stock surface, ENSURE THAT YOU STOP WITH THE STUD HOLE ALIGNED IN THE DESIRED POSITION.

7) Let cure completely as per the directions of your particular epoxy. Do NOT mess with it before hand. You are better off to give it excess time.

8) Very carefully unscrew and remove the studs and clean to remove all the release agent.

9) Using a Q-tip clean the screw hole to remove any release agent residue. Use fresh Q-tips to soak up any thinner and dry out the screw hole. Allow ten minutes evaporation to be safe. I do NOT use compressed air as it can force thinner under the tape and on to the stock finish.

10) Remove the tape and reinsert the screws. You should not need any Lock-Tight or any other type of thread lock.

Hope this helps - it has served me well for both types of stocks.

Some careful gentlemen here. Interesting read.