I'll admit that I've never used paste wax as a release agent. I have always used the liquid that came with the Agra-Glass kits, it's aresol equivalent or Hornady One-Shot case lube.

For those that use paste wax (Johnson's or other), Kiwi shoe polish, etc, after the initial application(s), do you buff the wax or leave it as is?

I use the pure carnauba wax agent in Probed and buff it out with a microfiber cloth.

I leave it as is but I don't put it on real thick and I put it on with a cloth dampened with varsol. I think paste wax is, far and away, the best release agent I have used over the last fifty years. GD

I've used Trewax with mixed results, but prefer Brownell's release agent.

I leave it as-is.. But make sure you let it dry first.. Then bed the rifle..

Just don't put it on so thick that it's texture shows.....or your bedding will reflect that.

I put on 2-3 light coats of Renaissance paste wax, letting it dry in between. If you go on light, there is no need to buff unless you have heavy/lumpy spots. If I do have to buff out irregularities I always go back over with a real light coat and leave it be.

Same here after sticking one Renaissance or Johnsons. Multiple coats add peace of mind. If there are any recesses not filled with playdo I shoot them with Hornaday One shot in addition to the wax. I also wax the stock and then masking tape over that. Cleanup usually is just a matter of pulling the tape off.

I use Kiwi neutral shoe polish. I'll put on several coats, buffing lightly between coats. On the last coat I don't buff it, just let it dry.

Yep, I use Johnson's paste wax and it works great. One coat and let it dry. No need to use 2 or 3 coats.... JMHO... I will, however, use hornady one shot case lube in those hard to get to spots, as well.

Paint Johnsons on the desired areas with a smallish brush (like water color). Leave as is. Never had a failure.

ditto to the above I have used it for over 50 years.

Ditto to the above (Johnsons), I've used it 42 years , must have listened to pod! Nothing like experience!

I'm feeling frisky today so I thought I would share one of our in house secrets. For release agent try ordinary paraffin wax like Parowax household wax that you find in the box at the grocery store during canning season. Warm a chunk with a propane torch till it just starts to get soft then apply with a rag just like paste wax. You can polish it up to a high sheen. We do two coats. The really slick thing is to use the torch and drip it into any holes or slots you want filled and them shave flush with a razor blade. Do your bedding and you will find your action will pop right out on the first or second bop on the bench. You will have the shiniest bedding job you ever saw. To remove it out of the holes and crevices of the action just run the propane over it for just a bit and the wax turns to a water consistency and runs right out or can be soaked up with a rag or q-tips. You won't do that with play dough or any kind of clay. A box of wax will last years and is cheap.

How much fit does it give you if you want to coat afterwards?

Long ago I walked in on the local gunsmith when he was in a foul mood. He was a curmudgeonly sort but that day took the cake. Evidently a customer had just done his first bedding job- entire action and barrel channel. Yep, no release agent. "The simple sorry SOB wants me to fix it. Hah!"- he said as he raised the hatchet over his head...

No problems at all for coating and most our rifles get coated. I'm not sure if the acetone soak gets it or the gas out burns it off but never noticed a problem. My AO isn't contaminated because I have never had a fisheye. I'm pretty certain even ordinary rubbing alcohol would wipe most of it right off. If you are not coating the gun then no need to remove it. Like any wax it gives good protection from water.

Thanks for the tip.

tag for future reference

I use Kiwi Neutral shoe polish and leave it as is. I always bed with Devcon. I remember buying a used Model 70 from a customer for resale. I discovered that he had bedded it and created a mechanical lock. Deal was done.

Two coats of Hornady's One Shot followed by a coat of Kiwi natural.

Works with Acraglas and polyester resin too.




Dan

Since a bottle of Brownell's release liquid costs about $6 and lasts for dozens of AcraGel/AcraGlass bedding jobs, I can't see the value in using an alternative release agent.

I was at Browell's retail store in Grinnell, IA, yesterday and bought a bottle 'cause I plan to do some bedding in the next couple of weeks.

I do my fair share of bedding long guns but doing a good many scope mounts I've really been experimenting with bedding lapped rings and also bases. I've found that the harder waxes do best if you're going buff them. I like the softer waxes if I'm not buffing. For instancre, I have 25-year old can of carnuaba car wax that is very hard in the can. I smear and buff two coats. On the other hand I like to use Johnson's paste floor wax which is very soft and "liquidy" and I do not buff. I've used it wet and dry and it works equally well.

The volatile additives in Johnson's paste wax also make it great for removing uncured epoxy from places you don't want it, such as your hands or the fingerprint that managed to somehow get on stock. lightly rubbing Johnson's paste wax on even semi set up epoxy will soften it and make it easy to remove.

For this reason, I make sure to let the paste wax dry throughly prior to bedding- so that those volatile agents are not present to affect the final bedding job.

Good tip and it might explain why some bedding jobs take so long to fully cure. I thought it was from out dated bedding compound but may be the still wet wax.

When I bought this can of Johnson's paste wax, I think it was about $5-6 also..

I still have over half a can left, and since I've used this now for 18+ years it should last me another 18 - if I live/wanna work that long.. And I bed probably 25-30 rifles/year - at least..

You're obviously more frugal than I am.

I use T-Lube plus from Certified Labs. This is an eighty percent Teflon spray that drys with a very light white film. Super easy clean up when done and nothing sticks to that Teflon!

I wax EVERYTHING I don't want it to stick to.

I still maintain epoxy is most closely related to dogshit. It'll go everywhere you don't want it and the more you try to clean it up the worse it gets.

Keep practicing. We don't mask anything anymore. Got it down to where it's a real clean process. I don't even get it on my hands anymore. For release I don't use anything that leaves a visible residue or liquid of any kind. No sprays. All products like that show up in the bedding and interfere with getting an exact casting of the action. What ever I use has to still work when buffed off best I can.