Never had a savage before, and somehow.....this kinda stuff just keeps happening....ended up with a long action 110 in .308 in a wood stock.

Stock was making contact on the left side of the barrel so I opened it up a little to float it, and bedded the recoil lug (not high enough in front to touch the barrel nut), and the front of the reciever where the action screw goes through.

Kinda stuck on how/where to bed the action screw closest to the trigger..... Like I said, my first savage... On Winchesters and Remington's, I bed the tang, front of reciever, recoil lug, and an inch or so of the barrel. On the Savage, instead of the action screw coming up through the tang, it is in front of the trigger guard...

I'm guessing bed it where the screw comes through in front of the trigger guard? I haven't checked to see if the tang is also making contact.

Open to any input on Savages. New animal for me. Thanks,
JCM

I have a 110 done by a gunsmith in return for several years of hunting advice, and have since done three more for friends and family. The gunsmith bedded the first inch and a half of barrel, locking lug, area between the locking lug and magazine, and a little under the tang. He left the area under the screw at the front of the trigger guard alone, saying the bedding under the tang would eliminate the need for bedding under the front of the trigger guard. The rifle, a .30-06, shoots .6 inch for 5 shots at 100 yards from sandbags. It has not changed in 16 years. I did the same with two of the rifles I bedded and all shoot well, then bedded the area under the front trigger guard screw on my son's rifle too, and the only difference was more bedding material oozed into the trigger recess and had to be removed. It shot no better or worse than the others. I do think bedding the area under the front trigger guard screw might result in less compression of wood under the back of the receiver and stock warping from tightening the screw too much. The tang should be bedded either way.

There has to be clearance under most Savage tangs for the safety to operate. You can probably slide a business card under it now. I would leave the tang alone and bed the recoil lug area and the first inch or two of the barrel.

If it shoots well now, I wouldn't mess with it.

Try www.savage shooters.com. Lots of advice there, and if you do a search, you'll find lots of details with photos. If I remember correctly, I also founds lots of info when I googled "Savage rifle bedding" or something like that.

There's a problem with the rear screw being so close to the sear U-lever. I have two Savages, and I had to grind away part of both levers, then I rotated the pillars by heating it. Took an EZ Out, stuffed in the hole, and turned so I had metal both in front AND in back of the screw hole. That solved the problem.

I have glass-bedded three Savage rifles, with a narrow strip of bedding surrounding the rear of the tang, none of which protrudes into the trigger/safety recess, and nothing causes the safety to hang up as kelbro suggests. The problem is around the sear at the front of the trigger, not at the tang. These are older rifles without pillar bedding, and frankly, I don't know why you'd glass-bed a rifle with pillar bedding anyway, since the barrel is already floated and supported.

Some do, some don't. Mine had space under them from the factory. The action is supported in front of the trigger, not at the rear like some rifles so bedding the tang adds nothing to the stability. Agree with DrHJH. With pillars, there would be no reason to bed.