I have been playing around with roll-up wood stoves for several years but was never really satisfied with the results. My main issues were legs and pot supports.

I think in this latest project I have finally come up with a roll-up stove that will serve my needs.

These first two images show the legs, which are 10-24 stainless machine screws that attach to the stove front and back via T-Nuts which are rivited into the flanges. I borrowed from David (Huskyrunner) in the use of MSR Alpine plates for the front and back. The legs go through holes in the stove body which is .004 stainless shim stock.

The front legs are angled toward the back and vise-a-versa so they are very stable.

I prefered the MSR over the Snow Peak Ti plated due to the slightly bigger diameter and the larger flange even though the titanium would save about 4 ounces.





The door is 20 gauge stainless for more ridgity and is hinged on the bottom with a stainless hinge.



The stove connects with 1/16" stainless aircraft cable swaged to single hook end springs.





Pot supports are stainless tubing that the cable passes through and is swaged in place.



The pot supports are tapered to allow various diameter pots to be used. The following images show an MSR Titan Kettla and a Mont-Bell 20 oz cup.

[img]http://i597.photobucket.com/albums/tt56/runsmtns/Roll-up4.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i597.photobucket.com/albums/tt56/runsmtns/Roll-up5.jpg[/img]

The draft holes are backed with stainless mesh - spark screen material to prevent sparks from shooting out the front of the stove.

[img]http://i597.photobucket.com/albums/tt56/runsmtns/Roll-up9.jpg[/img]

I went with a collar that has a flat spark screen placed in it at assembly and then has a slot with a slide control damper plate. In my experience a slide damper is more adjustable and fool proof.

[img]http://i597.photobucket.com/albums/tt56/runsmtns/Roll-up6.jpg[/img]

The stove dimensions are 7.5" x 12" and it weighs 1 pound 6 ounces without pipe or 1 pound 15 ounces with a 50" pipe.

The stove body rolls up and the roll-up pipe slides inside the rolled stove body.

[img]http://i597.photobucket.com/albums/tt56/runsmtns/Roll-up10.jpg[/img]

It still needs a burn test, but I have no doubt it will do very well.

Very nice Ed.

Very nice Ed!! Where do I send the money

That looks great Ed.I just made one that is a similar size from two ss canisters and the lightest I could get it is 2lbs. 9 oz.
Tim

What screen did you use for the spark arrester and what kind of hinge did you use for the door ? Thanks !

Send it down and I'll take care of that test burn for you. Might take a while though.

The screen is a stainless steel mesh like a fine hardware cloth.

The hinge is stainless steel continues hinge.

Great job Ed T! Very creative, very light.

I forgot to add in my best Mongo voice, "Heat goood!"

Very Very nice Ed.....we might have to talk some more about stoves!!!

Looks good! I think that these cylinder stoves are sweet. I know some have been concerned about a slower cook time then a box stove, but I can tell you that mine cooks food quickly and boils water plenty quick. These cylinder stoves are just so light and compact, and perfect imo for most small shelters.

Looks like another win! I don't have an issue with sparks jumping out the draft holes though. Guessing it's the hardwood I burn. But does the mesh reduce the air flow much?

Me neither, I don't care, I found it nice to just put big sticks in it that were too big to easily or quietly break with game nearby and just keep feeding then in as they burn.

Very nice Ed. Tim.

Nice job EdT. Looks a 6"x50" shim stock for the pipe and a 12" piece for the body. ?? Where do you source your shim stock and what specs do you recommend?

Did arrive at a certain thickness by chance or did you try a few before deciding?

Actually 12"x50" for the pipe. .004 Stainless. You can get it from McMaster- Carr or Fastenal among others.

It is what many of us have been using for roll up pipes for many years.

If you have time, could you post a picture of the how the body joins...I was assuming a flange of opposing j-hooks (I doubt that is the proper terminology).

Actually, the body just overlap wraps. The leg bolts keep the position correct. Once the stainless shim stock has a burn set it reverts right to position as soon as it is unrolled.

Hope this answers your question.

Yep. Thought that might be the easiest way of getting the size right - but then thought it couldn't be that simple. Thanks.

What's the diameter of the flue?
Is the screen/damper collar a different thickness of material than the stove body and pipe?
Burn pictures?

Are you worried that the legs aren't long enough? On ground I wouldn't worry but what about on snow? What do you use for a snow platform?