I'm looking at compasses again and have it narrowed down to 3: Recta DS 50, Suunto MC2G, Brunton Truarc 15. All hang around the $40-50 mark.

I'm kind of leaning toward the Brunton Truarc 15 because it has the same features as the other 2 plus a couple of other things I like - luminous markings, user friendly map scales, clinometer. I also like that it is made in USA - Riverton, WY to be exact.

I'm looking for input from the guys that use these type of devices every day and have the experience to opine thusly. Anyone have any opinions on these 3 - or other good compass options?

Thanks.

Suunto makes great compasses, and until this thread, I didn't know that Brunton did...............they've been importing the real Silvas under the Brunton name.

I've got the MC2G (and some others) and think highly of it. It's a very good replacement for the older (real) Silva Ranger.

From what I've read about the Truarc 15, the center of the dial isn't clear, and that'd be a tie-breaker for me. The second problem is the declination adjustment From what I've read, it's more trouble than solution. It doesn't require a tool, but then the adjustments jump 2-3 degrees. I can't imagine losing the small key/screw driver on the lanyards of my Silva or Suunto, but if I did, I know I could find a small screw driver to make the required adjustment. Since I'm not a world traveler, one adjustment from home is all I require. Or it's possible to add or subtract the declination without adjusting it out. Just one more step that's nice to eliminate while using a compass, and another tie-breaker when comparing with the Suunto.

I bought a Brunton Nexus 7DNL(made in Sweden) last month for my son to start learning on, so I'm not anti Brunto............especially since the name has been largely used for importing quality Swedish gear. But my vote would be the Suunto, because of my experience with it, and the reputation it has. Also be aware that there are several MC2 variations, so you need to carefully chose the model features you want.

I've spent alot of time looking at the three, mostly in pictures because thats all I have. My main issue with the MC2g are the internet posts on bubbles appearing but not necessarily related to high altitude and/or low temps.

I have a Brunton 15 TDCL and like it alot. I wish it had the global needle and luminous markings. It could also chop off the extra 1/2" that sticks out under the mirror/lid. I also like some of the features on the TruArc 15 - global needle and luminous markings. Basically the Truarc 15 is a modernized 15 TDCL. I don't like the dual row of numbers and the very small font size on the numbers on the bezel of the Truarc.

Here is a good review from an actual user that I found helpful.

http://www.woodsmonkey.com/navigation-with-brunton-and-suunto

I have an older Brunton mirror compass mirror compass and a newer Suunto, both of witch have the old style declination adjustment via a screw, the newer Brunton's have a tool-less adjustment, and I don't like it much, it is a lot harder to adjust.
I recently bought a Truarc 10 with that style of adjustment. The Truarc is built heavy duty but was surprised at how finicky the needle in regards to holding the compass level. The Suunto is very forgiving.

As far as the friendly scales go, for some reason compasses do not number their UTMs correctly, so I have opted to have one of these see-thru plastic UTM tools attached to the compass lanyard, it allows you to get your easterly and northerly reading in one shot. Since for some reason the compasses reverse one of the scales (or I'm using it wrong), you have to rotate the compass to get the two UTM marks. On this tool the scales are numbered in the right direction to get your easterly and then northerly numbers




If you notice on the Turac 10, the 1:24000 scale has one of the scales numbered in the wrong direction to get both numbers at one time, ..I can't figure that out, most compasses are scaled that way so there must be something I'm not understanding. Maybe in Europe you take westerly and southerly readings?

Thats a good idea on a separate UTM scale. Where did you buy the scale?

Bunch of places sell them, click on this ling, look them over and go to the page.

https://www.google.com/search?q=utm...gIVQZWICh0_JQrG&biw=1366&bih=616

Make sure the grids are in the right direction for you, and also the correct scale. They are cheap enough to buy a few.

In the west we take an easterly read first then a northerly, so this is the one that works in the west, but I see some numbered in different directions like the compass was.

I just remembered, that are called UTM Roamers.

Read Right Up

These are made right here in Michigan. A little more expensive, but rugged: http://www.cammenga.com/Tritium-Military-Compass-p/3h.htm

The hole at the 0/0 goes on the point on the map that you are trying read. The scale counts from the 0/0 point to the grid.

Military bubbas are taught orient the map grid, read the map grid, plus the distance to the right, and then the same "up" to the point we are reading.

We start the grid coordinate from the low left grid zone corner to the point on the map.

The compass grid starts on the point we are trying to read, and counts back to the low left corner of the grid zone.

Maybe simpler said, .mil reads from the map grid to the point, the compass is marked to read from the point to the map grid.

Same measurements, same grid read out, just different starting point.

Do you know why some Roamer scales look like this?

Seems like that would not work if taking UTMs off a GPS and trying to locate position on a topo?

GPS to map is not hard. You do have the intermediate step of converting the UTM or MGRS coordinate to six digits- three each in the east and north direction.

Use the compass scale to help at first but you can learn to eyeball it pretty quickly. The six digit coordinate 123456 tells you that in grid square 12 East by 45 north, you need to go about 1/3 of the grid to the right and a little over halfway up.

If your GPS is set to twelve digits, learn to round it down. So 14 D 123456 789012 becomes 123 789.

Why not eight or ten digits? Most maps don't have the detail or accuracy to allow you to reliably plot an eight or ten digit coordinate. Get to six digits and look around and orient to the terrain. Sat maps often have great detail but the map coordinates and GPS coordinates can and will vary based on many factors.

Regarding the clinometer, except on a Geologists or forest worker's compass I see no reason for one. It is one more thing to go wrong or to interfere with the movement of the needle.

Barkoff;

"Seems like that would not work if taking UTMs off a GPS and trying to locate position on a topo?"

It does, and very well. Just how to explain it so that it makes sense on a keyboard is the issue with me. I'll give it a try and someone who can explain it better or post a picture please pipe in.

1.) Use the UTM scale on the compass that is correct for your compass (don't know… no problem, just use the scale that fits the UTM grid for your map).

2.) The point where the numbers come together (where the hole is located) would go in the upper right corner of the UTM grid on the map.

3.) After you get your GPS position (UTM's) move the scale to the left and down to match the GPS reading. Use your pencil to mark your position which is where the numbers come together (again at the hole). This is your position.

Jerry

100% agree with you up to there, the rest just got me plain confused but I think you know what your talking about! lol

Edited to add I found the video below which pretty much shows it



One other thing for Barkoff..UTM Grids References really are "universal".

Lets say you find a cabin in the woods and from your map arrive at a 6 figure grid ref for it which you then txt to your buddy..

Now your map might have a scale of 1:25,000 and be by Company X and your buddy might have a 1:50,000 map by Brand X, but that 6 figure reference will locate to the same point on both maps..

Three reasons to not worry about magnetic declination adjustment on a compass.

1. It changes from year to year for the same location.

2. If you travel for your hunting, it will be different from your home area.

3. You should get in the habit of using it instead of trying to dial and forget.

That being said, the only time you need to worry about magnetic declination is when transferring information back and forth between a compass and a map. If you use a compass as a stand alone navigation tool, you don't need to worry about it.

Get in the habit of knowing it and using it and you won't ever have trouble with it again.

http://www.magnetic-declination.com/

http://www.ngdc.noaa.gov/geomag-web/

1. It changes from year to year for the same location.


Well on a related note, I read one article that said when working with a gps, your gps will have the correct declination for the area you are in, more so than a five year old map. Do gps's make adjustments to the declination every year?

I have used the old Silva Ranger for many years the ones made in sweden. Can still find them on ebay.

SSShhhhh...........

Thanks for that clip, that really made clear the technique others were trying to explain...or I should say Me trying to understand.