How can I remove this superficial scratch/mark on brushed aluminum? I can see the brushed striations in the scratch. I thought of using Fritz with either a cloth, my finger or a buffing brush on a dremel. Or gently use emery cloth.

0000 steel wool in same direction as the brush marks.

We in the trade call that "the idiot scratch" BTW.

Thanks, I will try that AND I have no problem being called an "idiot" on this one

I do it all the time ...

I usually recommend the green Scotch Brite pads, and like T LEE said, rub in the right direction. If the scratch is really bad and neither the steel wool or the Scotch Brite doesn't work, then a few swipes with 600 grit wet & dry sand paper.

In all likelihood any buffing in that finish with either steel wool or scotchbrite will not exactly match the finish.........those are really the only viable options to fix the spot but may require you to blend the finish into a larger area.

Tip: go slowly with minimum pressure.

MM

Are you sure that is aluminum? The pistol looks like an Eclipse and they are stainless. If it is, I don't think scotchbrite or anything similar will get it out of stainless. I'd just leave it alone.

Is that an Eclipse? Are you sure it's an aluminum frame?

The first thing I would check is if the 'scratch' looks like it does due to the black finish on the slide release rubbing off on the frame.

Secondly, if you have to deal with the scratch, fix the scratch first. Don't wander around the frame trying to get things to blend in until the scratch is dealt with. Hold a small piece of fine steel wool in a tweezers and wipe/buff with the grain in a small an area as possible. Use gun oil or WD-40 for a lube. Once you remove any 'black' from the scratch and break the edges you might find that's good enough.

If you need to expand the area to blend things in, box the area in with masking tape. It's too easy to wander otherwise.

Take you time - that scratch would take me an hour at least. I'd walk away every ten minutes or so to reinforce my patience and to get a fresh look at the progress - less is more.

I guess I shouldn't have answered the phone while typing my reply.

Actually Scotch Brite or 600 wet & dry will work very well. Scotch Brite works very well on Colt's Stainless which has a higher polish, so the 600 grit will probably work best on this particular gun.

After getting a workout using the 0000 wool and not getting anywhere, I had to use 600 grit wet and then the 0000 wool and it work pretty good. The area is just a little more "shiny" but you need to have the light hit it just right. Anyone who did not know the scratch was there would not notice the area. I think I will use the 600 grit again and then 000 wool until it looks perfect (or close). I guest that is the nice thing about brushed stainless steel/aluminum ..... with a little patience and knowhow, you can fix the booboos.

It is the Eclipse Pro II, the frame is aluminum and the slide is stainless.

The scratch happened when I was putting the slide stop back in and it is a little tricky pushing in the plunger at the same time. The scratch only appears black in the picture. It looks pretty good now (hardly noticeable) and yes, I have an hour into it not counting breaks .......... and less is more

Are you double sure?

Eclipse Pro II

You need to post a new photo so we can be overly critical of your work. Don't take all the fun out of this for us...lot's of folks have done the same thing at least once.

I, of course, never have. However, I picked up four or five Pachmayr Widgets just in case. Yeah right, that's the ticket.

Pachmayr Widget

Good to know. I never would have thunk it.

If you push the lever straight in rather than starting at the trigger guard and rotating up the scratch won't happen. Not being a smartazz but that is how that happens.

You need to post a new photo so we can be overly critical of your work. Don't take all the fun out of this for us...lot's of folks have done the same thing at least once.

I had disassembled this Kimber several times wo/any problems but the last time ..... SCRATCHED!! Kinda like that first scratch on the new car, afer that first one, no real big deal. It turned out pretty good except if the light hits the area just right, it is a little brighter (but I'm anal). I finshed w/00 steelwool.

Looks good, dang it.

Move along folks, nothing to see here...

"SCRATCHES!" ... just another good reason for owning,

Hi-Point Pistols.

Get some holster wear on the pistol and nobody will notice a tiny scratch like that!
whelennut

Most EXCELLENT Sir, nice job.

Sure, 90 minutes later, TA-DAH. The next one will likely stay ......... adds character, right?

Now you got the right idea! Guns with NO scratches on them are owned by those who don't really use them and that is a fact. I have a couple that get shot once or twice a year but after 15 years, I noticed the other day I had a scratch on one of my beauties too. Hey, it's OK, now it has charactor finally.

Which is exactly why most of my rifles wear a wood stock rather than plastic. I love those beauty marks

When you get a new pristine 1911, apply a little bit of scotch tape to the area that gets scratched. As you own the pistol and clean it periodically, strive to not hit the tape and make it last as long as you can.

Eventually you will learn to not make the scratch, and the tape prevents scratches in the meantime.

That's what they make Duct Tape for ...

And while your at it, do the 'whole' gun!

This is great info!!!