You can detail strip the pistol over a pack in the middle of nowhere, down to the last spring, pin, and part with little to no tools. One does not need to be a gunsmith, a child can be taught to detail strip a 1911, the parts are few, simple, and fairly robust.
Lube is near pixie dust voodoo with some using the 1911, especially those having high precision 1911s with NASA like close fitting tolerances. I like simplicity. Having no bearing on the 1911, I tend to like, keep on hand, and most often use TW25B grease for almost any surface needing lubrication. How thick or how thin I apply this lubrication, all depends on the particular part and piece. TW25B, for me, seems to work well with most any cleaning solvent and most any oil, be it dino oils, or be it modern synthetic oils. Something that I like better than TW25B, and only in those applications where I do not intermix with other lubes, is Froglube or Tracklube. The Froglube paste variant is easier to obtain in small quantities than the Tracklube variant. I do not believe there is anything on planet earth any slicker than this stuff when properly applied. If used improperly and mixed with other lubes, or applied and kept thick, it can cause issues. But if applied properly, and exclusively throughout the entire pistol, it works wonderfully. The 1911 is such a pistol that is so easy to detail strip, it makes a good candidate for exclusive use of this lube on every piece and part of the pistol. But, do not do so and turn around and hose the gun down with dino lubes which may migrate down into the hammer/sear, firing pin, etc. They do not work well together and could gum the works. Outside the added attention needed during the initial application, a 1911 using 100% Froglube is near perfection in my book. Have found nothing as good and as easy to use when running a 1911 often and hard.
Outside of this, a mere can of synthetic Dexron ATF would keep one of these 1911s running well for its lifetime.
Best