I've been using Winchester for years in both handgun and rifle. Just started using Federals in my rifles, but that's another story for another time. Which large pistol primers do you guys favor in both standard and magnum? And is there a reason?

Federals.

Because they don't need much in the way to go boom everytime.

Mostly CCI's, but a buddy got me a deal on several several cases of Federals so I've been popping them lately until I need to replenish.

I seem to get the best accuracy with H-110 when lit off with CCI 350's, other than that I haven't seem much difference between CCI 300's and Fed large pistol.

Been using CCI's but now I am wandering over to Winchester as a local supplier had them for $22 a thousand.

I only use CCI.
Been using them since the 70's, never an issue

I have heard that CCI primers have a harder cup than Winchester or Federal. Is this true or not in your opinion?

I like silly DA pulls on my Smiths....so I use Federals.

Hawk, you just nailed the reason for my question two posts up. I am a little concerned about light primer strikes in double action mode if using a hard cup primer.

I did have some hang fires in my 480 when I put a lighter spring in using cci 350 primers and H-110. Not a good feeling to not know when a full patch load feels like going off.

Hence I put the factory spring back in and ~5000 rounds later no problems.

Mostly CCI over the years but Winchester when they were out of the CCI,good results with both.

What type/brand/model of DA?

Federals are forgiving when it comes to weak DA strikes, primers not seated fully and I've never had any poor hits on a Fed. pistol primer, large or small.....they ALWAYS dimple and crush the pellet.

That's why there is no LEE Auto Prime of old.

I don't advocate springs and DA pulls that won't fire any and every primer, but Federals have never exhibited one instance of "weak" strike.

I've had "untuned" factory springed guns have instances (though few) of looking like/having light strikes, but its almost like they were cups that were too hard. They wouldn't even fire or dimple more in SA.

We're talking a handful out of 500-1000 rounds, but there they were.

It shouldn't matter. A gun should work with any/all primers. Anything else is bull schit (did I spell it right Travis?)

Paul

A priming tool should work without warning for any and all primers; 'cept they don't.....wonder why.

I agree though, the gun needs to go boom with any and all. Problem is the all has always been Federals.

The other weird thing about Federal caps is that they come in those giant plastic squares; there's reasons for that too.


Federal primers are the "Ohio Blue Tip" of primers.

Hawk, shooting 629, and Redhawks in both 44 mag and 45 Colt. I know the problem that Redhawks supposedly have with light primer strikes for various reasons (although I have never in 30 years had a failure to fire). As I said, I have always used Winchester, and have been leaning toward CCI, but I don't want a cup that is too hard for quick double action firing in a sticky situation.

Which primers, by the way, is it that Lee recommend that we don't use in their priming tool? I've had them for years and used them with Winchester primers.....

LEE altered their Auto Prime due to supposed issues with chain ignitions with Federal primers. My last ones had warning cards in them NOT to use Federal primers. The new tool sucks, but its now hunky dory with Fed caps.

Generally a stock spring ignites them all; have had issues with one Colt DA and small pistol primers (never FTF with Federals) with stock springs in DA and several Smiths in DA with aftermarket spring kits. Again, they always fired with Federals but needed adjusted to fire others in DA every time.

If your using stock springs you should be fine, but most rarely fire in DA enough to even know if there really is an issue. If you have ANY issues in SA you definitely want a gunsmith to check it out!

I use them all except Remington's with zero issues. Just make sure the heat is right for the powder.

Thanks for the information. Smith is stock, but I'm using Wolfe's heaviest in the Redhawks. I've not had any FTF's in either in SA, but I've only fired probably 50 rounds or so DA with no problems. I may go back to the factory springs in my Redhawks or not worry about trying other primers. Thanks guys for all opinions.

Better to be safe and 100 percent.

I thought Wolff was where I dreamt up my reasoning, but I found it:

http://www.speedshooterspecialties....amp;cPath=103_96_235&products_id=685

" Miculek Revolver Spring Kit

$17.25

Fast trigger action & reduced pull weight for competition & speed shooting.
Balanced compression and rebound rates allow hammer spring and trigger return spring to work in unison. Together, they give a seven pound, double action trigger pull with a fast trigger return. Recontoured hammer spring helps smooth trigger pull, prevents stacking. Spring steel. Fits K, L and N frame revolvers. For best results, ammo should use Federal primers."

[video:youtube]http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...D6D73EFCAAFB24C74EC1D6D73EFCAAFB24C74EC1[/video]

5:50 is an explanation of strain screw/weight limits.

a couple years back, there was a thread about Federal using large packaging for their primers.

in the thread, someone mentioned a lawsuit in years past. i made a short, general reply about Federal primers, and below i have pasted some of that reply into this thread. Federal primers are excellent, and in my opinion, are the best alternative for self defense handguns--especially the smaller rigs...and they are also great for revolvers, especially if firing DA, and especially so if the strain screw is backed off...




for striker fired handguns, i prefer the federal primers, as in my opinion, they have a softer cup--which can better assure ignition in rigs often relied upon for self defense.

this can also be an extra nice "plus" in striker fired compact handguns that typically have shorter/weaker springs, and also in hammer fired compact guns, for the hammers will usually have somewhat lower mass, so it can help to have a softer cup in these rigs.

though i've read this (and have no way of knowing if it is a fact--perhaps a campfire member out there may know)), federal uses "basic" lead styphnate for their compound, while other manufacturers use "normal" lead styphnate compound. according to what i had read, the claim is that "basic" styphnate is more sensitive than "normal" styphnate, as the compound has a finer grain.

It is a fact that a CCI primer has a thicker cup. I switched from CCI primers to Federal many years ago in both rifle and handgun and haven't looked back.

I will drive several hours to buy Federal primers of any size; rifle and pistol.

As for large pistol primers, I have two N-frame .44 magnums with action jobs and lightened springs. That's why.

I use CCI in rifles. Prefer Winchesters in large pistol magnums as they are rated for both std and mag loads.
I don't think I have ever tried Federals

So your gun won't work unless you use certain primers??

Paul

CCI because I have and haven't needed to change

New to handloading, but I'm using WLP because they work for both std and magnum loads in my 44mag and work for the 45acp too. I want to keep the logistics simple for now.

Federal Gold Medal 155 Match in all the 45 ACP loads.

Winchester Primers for all the calibers I use slow burning ball powders in for sure. They have always tested out the best.


With flake powders, whatever tests out the best. CCI, FED or WIN.

Whatever I can find!

lastround, do not know about the hardness of primers.

Have shot a lot of factory ammo by various makers, in semi auto and revolvers.
No issues with any.

Yep!

I have a good stockpile of CCI-300 and Federal 150 bricks purchased in the time of milk and honey between the two Obama shortages.

Never really thought of using them for specific purposes, mostly just doled them out to different handguns as I worked up loads - try a Fed 150 for a .45 Colt, then use come CCI 300 for a .45 Auto load, back to 150's for a .44 Special load etc. - and then would just keep using that particular primer with that load.

I'd try switching primers on a particular load if I was bored and wanted to see what would happen but never noticed any significant difference between one or the other when it came to velocity or accuracy.

Also, I don't have anything with reduced power springs so that's not a factor but I can see how the Federals would prove better in those handguns that do.



I did have a series of misfires with CCI 500 primers purchased after the Clinton shortage in the 90's. I think CCI was cranking them out as fast as possible at the time and QC suffered. They misfired in a stock Ruger GP-100 which isn't known for light hammer strikes.

I am gathering from what I am reading here and other places that CCI primer cups are the hardest (or thickest) and therefore the most difficult to ignite, followed by maybe Winchester then to the softest (or thinnest) which is Federal.

I guess I will just have to be careful when using my old Lee AutoPrime. I got an instruction sheet from Lee. Basically, they say don't worry when using their older tool with CCI, be careful with Remington and Winchester, and NEVER use that tool with Federals. I guess I've been lucky using Federals in rifle cartridges. Or maybe more cautious................

CCI 300 with 2400 and Unique and CCI 350 with H110, Win 296 and Lil'Gun

I have several J,K,L and N frame Smiths with reduced springs. Never had a problem. I do not use the weaker springs for the X frame 500 S&W since it shoots Large Rifle primers.

I also have a very old Auto-Prime I use on everything. Here again, never had a problem.

Both scenarios with 10's of thousands of rounds loaded and shot.

But, never say never.

I've used a lot of Federals. AR guys will caution their use in AR's due to potential slam fires. I've shot a lot of Federals in AR's too, with no issues, but the potential is there. However, late last winter I picked up a box of Federal AR Match primers. I presume they have thicker cups to take care of the slam fire issue. I haven't used any yet but hope to soon.

A lot of bunk from Lee. I must have used a million Fed primers in the Lee tool. I have also taken Fed LP primers to astounding pressures in the .454 and rifles.
The truth is back then when they used the small boxes, a UPS guy tossed a box of them in the truck and tossed a heavy box on top, clear from the back of the truck, set the primers off. Now I am not sure if they went off with the first toss or not. But it was rough handling with a box marked HAZMAT, EXPLOSIVES!
They are easier to ignite and if you need them only, your gun has a problem because even Fed primers need struck with proper impact for accuracy.
Well over 60 years of loading, I NEVER had a primer go off unless a firing pin hit it. I don't know anyone of my friends that has either. Except Pete, he lost one on the bench and was soldering something, flame found the primer!
I do not know how stupid anyone can be to set off a primer in a Lee tool, even had a few go sideways when I did not look, crushed them without going off. I have removed so many live primers from brass by hand and never had any go off.
It is false about Fed's in a Lee.

My 29-2 will work reliably with factory loaded ammunition and handloaded ammo with Federal primers. My revolver smith knows what he's doing.

My 629-5 has an extended firing pin and that seems to be enough to overcome any issues regarding the lightened hammer spring. I still don't like Remington primers, though.

I have had very good luck with the Wolf spring "kits" for S&W's and other. they are balanced in operation. I do not go for the lightest though.

Same here. Good rule of thumb. I try using the flake powders and standard primers with the lead bullets.

You talk about warnings.

Winchester Small Pistol Magnum primers are very hot. AA always stated to reduce load data by 10% when using them.


Since all Winchester powders all ball type, Winchester uses a different formulation in there primers to get good ignition with their powders. They are my go to on magnum handgun calibers using W296,H110(same), 4227 and Lil'gun.

... and Bluedot flake to reduce the frame thrower effect.