Reloading for a 9mm 125 gr HP with 231 win powder I have three different books and all have different Max loads ? One is 4.5 one 4.9 and an old speers is 5.6 what is being used out there
I use 4.4 with 124 gr. I consider that a light load but it shoots well and cycles my CZ, S&W, and Beretta all just fine.
Your chronograph is your friend here. Load up three of several different powder charges starting with 4.3, going up to 5.6 if you wish, and go chronograph them. When you hit the top speed number that the books say you should get, stop there. If you have to pull a few bullets from a couple of overloads, not that big of a deal.
Your gun and your lot of powder are always going to be different than what the loading manuals were using. Max for your gun and your powder/bullet/case/primer combo is something that you and each one of us should find out through experimentation and chronographing. If you see or sense any of the typical pressure signs we used to rely on, you are likely WAY over max or safe levels.
I use 231 4.4 for target and Idpa loads with 124"s.If you are loading warmer rounds there are better powders for high velocity loads.
I guess I should invest in a conograph ,I was getting what I thought looked like over pressure sighed on my primers with the 5.6 ,but when I loaded down to 4.8 they looked the same ? I am using Remington primers and then went to cci primers ,both looked the same wish I could load some pics
Always use the SAME primer brand and type specified in the load recipe. You can't switch them around without risking a significant increase in pressure.
From what I have been reading about the 9mm just seating the bullets to deep will cause a pressure problem, I tried some factory loads I have and the primers look the same as my reloads with the 5.6 loads ?
4.6 of 231 with 115 gr in my browning hi power
Your chronograph is your friend here. Load up three of several different powder charges starting with 4.3, going up to 5.6 if you wish, and go chronograph them. When you hit the top speed number that the books say you should get, stop there. If you have to pull a few bullets from a couple of overloads, not that big of a deal.
Your gun and your lot of powder are always going to be different than what the loading manuals were using. Max for your gun and your powder/bullet/case/primer combo is something that you and each one of us should find out through experimentation and chronographing. If you see or sense any of the typical pressure signs we used to rely on, you are likely WAY over max or safe levels.
Given some of the loads that you've talked about using in, say, the RIA 10mm, that's a hilarious level of hypocrisy.
Your chronograph is your friend here. Load up three of several different powder charges starting with 4.3, going up to 5.6 if you wish, and go chronograph them. When you hit the top speed number that the books say you should get, stop there. If you have to pull a few bullets from a couple of overloads, not that big of a deal.
Your gun and your lot of powder are always going to be different than what the loading manuals were using. Max for your gun and your powder/bullet/case/primer combo is something that you and each one of us should find out through experimentation and chronographing. If you see or sense any of the typical pressure signs we used to rely on, you are likely WAY over max or safe levels.
Given some of the loads that you've talked about using in, say, the RIA 10mm, that's a hilarious level of hypocrisy.
My 10mm load is .4 grs below book max, I did use a chronograph, and I quit when I get to the speeds the 10mm ORINIGNALLY was designed to run at by the inventors of the cartridge i.e. Dornaeous and Dixon in conjunction and Norma along with Smith and Wesson for their stout and well built 1006 pistol.
I know, also, that these loads will be fired in a 1911 that is equipped with a fully ramped barrel which fully supports the case all the way back to the extractor groove and has robust barrel lugs and springs.
nhfrank,
If even non plus P ammo is causing primer deformities like set back or rings around the primer strike, that is a pistol problem, not a load problem. You may need a bushing around your primer and/or the headspace re set on your pistol.
We need more info such as what make and model of pistol as well as what, exactly is happening to your primers etc. so that we can more correctly help you diagnose what is going on here.
And YES, for a lousy hundred bucks, you absolutely SHOULD invest in a Chronograph.
I am shooting a Beretta mod 92 SB compact and the primer hole has a ring around it I did try some factory ammo and getting the same results
Your chronograph is your friend here. Load up three of several different powder charges starting with 4.3, going up to 5.6 if you wish, and go chronograph them. When you hit the top speed number that the books say you should get, stop there. If you have to pull a few bullets from a couple of overloads, not that big of a deal.
Your gun and your lot of powder are always going to be different than what the loading manuals were using. Max for your gun and your powder/bullet/case/primer combo is something that you and each one of us should find out through experimentation and chronographing. If you see or sense any of the typical pressure signs we used to rely on, you are likely WAY over max or safe levels.
Given some of the loads that you've talked about using in, say, the RIA 10mm, that's a hilarious level of hypocrisy.
My 10mm load is .4 grs below book max, I did use a chronograph, and I quit when I get to the speeds the 10mm ORINIGNALLY was designed to run at by the inventors of the cartridge i.e. Dornaeous and Dixon in conjunction and Norma along with Smith and Wesson for their stout and well built 1006 pistol.
I know, also, that these loads will be fired in a 1911 that is equipped with a fully ramped barrel which fully supports the case all the way back to the extractor groove and has robust barrel lugs and springs.
Which reloading manual? To my knowledge, there are NONE out there currently - and that are current - that list the "original" Norma loads or any that approach it.
Having a reloading manual out there right now that lists a MAX load having .4 grains MORE than necessary to hit 1200 fps with a 200 gr. TC/FN or a 170 grain JHP would be rather interesting, to say the least, especially when you consider that the original Norma loads were in the 44k CUP range. Another .4 grains above that, depending upon powder, would be crowding 50k CUP.
Also, a RIA 1911 is NOT a S&W 1006. Not even close.
I started this post to get info on my 9mm not a 10 mm ?
Understood, completely. Be careful with what information you receive, and from whom, however.
It sounds as though your Beretta is causing primer issues, regardless of load.
Between 4.5 and 4.8 grains, depending upon accuracy, works well for me and has in several 9x19s. Using the chronograph to make sure you're not getting any weird spikes and to detail in the ES and SD makes a lot of sense.
If you're just plinking, however, 4.4 makes a lot of sense if it cycles well because you're getting more shots per pound.
Hodgdon says 4.8 max with that powder and bullet weight. I wouldn't go much over that.
Just my opinion though.
nhFrank, there is a back story re Safariman, that is the reason for the thread drift. My suggestion would be to ignore anything he has to say about safe reloading practice.
OK. Thanks for the input do not what to get into a pizzing match I think maybe I will take a ride and ask my gun smith and get it from the wizard so I can show him the fired primers
OK. Thanks for the input do not what to get into a pizzing match I think maybe I will take a ride and ask my gun smith and get it from the wizard so I can show him the fired primers
Good call.
My Beretta 92 also leaves a ring around the fired primer pin mark. It is an extra large pin hole, very common on the 92's.
Any chance you can load a picture of one of your cases
I don't currently have any, it's been awhile since I have taken it to the range. Just do a Google search for "Beretta over sized firing pin hole" should be a lot of stories about it.
mhFrank, you might be able to save yourself a ride to your gunnie by showing a couple pics of the fired cases with primer pockets showing.
Just a suggestion.
At this time I am using a tablet and can not add pictures with it I did like Scott suggested and Google it, there are some picture there showing the same rings that I am getting , from some treads I have been reading it is normal for this pistol ,I have loaded down and my pistol won't cycle properly.
I think I will take a ride today and visits my GS he is getting old and I enjoy just talking with him a few guys on here know him and would do the same if they had the time. Ed Landers is a guru of guns he has been there and done that Ed is a true gun smith not just a bolt on a new part and guess and hope .
I will get back after my visit and post what he suggests
Well after a ride up the ,mountain to visit Ed ,I showed him a few fired cases and he said that they looked normal ,he checked the head space and did a good all around inspection and told me it all check out head space was tight and for the year and amount off shooting I do it is in real good condition
Thanks for all the feed back on this issue better safe then sorry