Just as the title implies. I'm looking for advice in bedding, barrel screw torque, freefloat or not, removal of barrel band (is it necessary), fire lapping etc. etc. What do you guys do to get them to shooting really well? Thanks in advance..

You might try rimfirecentral.com There is a forum devoted to the 10-22 there.

How much do you want to spen? What kind of accuracy are you looking for? It is wide open on options for 10-22. If your just wanting to step up a factory gun, free float barrel and put a VQ trigger kit in it. Good shooting

Are you trying to stay with the factory barrel? If not this is easy. One of the many barrels out there and a good trigger and thats about it. I've built up a few and have not had a bad one yet. Last build was a light weight with a tactical solutions light bull barrel. Shot this at 50 yds. 10 shot group.

dump it and get a T/C Classic.....

Thanks guys. I'm looking for cheap tricks like always. Wanting to see some pics of where and how to bed etc. I've already fine tuned the trigger and it's great (just as good as a VQ). My rifle is an older stainless model with the aloy/metal trigger group (not the plastic of today) with a deluxe walnut stock and factory tube with iron sights. Right now it's scoped with a bushy elite 3200 3-9x40 scope. It has always shot pretty good, just looking for better. Here is a pic of a 10 shot group from the other day at 50 yards and cheap federal bulk pack ammo:




The reason I ask is because this rifle isn't bedded or floated...

Huntsman, I'm surprised you are suggesting that as I know you are just as much a ruger guy as I am. However, I've seen the TC's in action and they are great shooters!! I'm trying to keep this one as stock looking as possible guys...Kind of a nice lightweight sleeper...

Very nice gunchamp. Excellent shooting!

$200 send to Randy @ CPC ... Sit back and perplex your buddies

Bsa1917hunter: I have owned 4 Ruger 10/22's over the past few decades and luckily they all were accurate enough to please me from the get go.
I mostly Hunt Ground Squirrels and Grouse and used to do some "plinking" with my 10/22's (ammunition is now so scarce that all my munitions are saved for Hunting).
I still own 3 of the Deluxe 10/22 Models, one of which I immediately installed a heavy, stainless, long, Lilja match chambered barrel on - and I opened up the barrel channel on it.
This little Rifle shoots very well indeed (with American Eagle factory H/P ammo and a 24 power scope!) I have shot groups (5 shots at 50 yards) as small as 1/4".
I have put WAY over 100,000 rounds down this barrel in the last 30 years or so.
I did add a new improved recoil buffer and had a bit of trigger work done on it back when the average working man could afford to have that done.
It sounds like you have a "sporter weight" model and I recommend the trigger improvements of your choice - if it does not shoot well enough for you then, I suggest you trade it off for another one and keep doing this until you (probably this can be accomplished quickly) get one that shoots well enough for your needs.
There apparently is an insatiable market for Ruger 10/22's as I have been observing how quickly they sell for going on 50 years now!
If accuracy is your goal then perhaps you should go the route many of my friends have and buy one of the factory heavy barrel models - all my friends with these are happy with them.
Best of luck to you.
Hold into the wind
VarmintGuy

I purchased a 17" Kidd barrel, first time out after that I had a .347in 5 shot group at 50 yards and a .852in 5 shot group at 100. I was shooting Eley Tenex. Since then I have pillar bedded it, sent the bolt off to get reworked, and did some simple trigger assembly polishing...but haven't shot it at paper since.

I am keeping an eye on this thread, my 10/22 lacks in the accuracy department a little too. The trigger is horrible!

I'm keeping an eye on it too raybass. I keep hoping someone posts some pics of proper bedding and whether or not to freefloat the barrel..Just looking for some easy mods to do myself, not a new barrel or trigger (like I previously mentioned, went over some peoples heads though). If no one posts the chit I asked for, I'll have to play doctor on it and learn the hard way. Maybe I will head over to rimfire central and do some research first..

I've probably remodeled 5-6 of them over the years.

started with tossing the factory barrel and stock and adding a Hogue Overmolded stock and either Green Mountain or Butler Creek 16" bull barrels. Take the action apart and polish and lube.

Top with a scope of your choice and away ya go.

I need some intel on a trigger job for one, I bet thats my biggest problem with mine. It must break @ 6# or more.

You mean kinda like the threads "Tell me about the Anschutz" which is followed by 50 posts about how CZ's will out shoot them all day long with gerbil pellets in the CZ and RWS 50 in the Annie??

Bottom line, there is no answer to your question. Everyone has different ideas what cheap and easy is. If you haven't been to RFC yet, you need to go ... the responses will be similar. Trigger, get a VQ hammer at the least, will help gobs. I have one 10/22 that is floated and shoots well, I have another that has the pressure point from hell and shoots well. If your question had a quick and easy answer you'd know the the answer already give how much you are on these forums ....

I know I didn't answer your question for a second post ... whaaa!

Free floating the barrel on a factory 10-22 is not the way to go. The aluminum receiver and the stock mounting screw will not support the barrel.

Free float the receiver, full length bed the barrel, and remove enough metal from inside of the barrel band where the screw goes through it so the band can be used to clamp the barrel tight in the stock.

Worked for me along with changing some trigger parts out so the pull was decent.

Have heard of folks doing that. I free floated my by using a Tactical Solutions V-Block, that way there are two points of support. If that wouldn't have worked for me I would have bedded the action and about 1" forward of the V-Block with the rest floated next .....

What were your receiver screw torque specs??

I got bit by the 10/22 bug a couple of years ago. Ended up doing the following:

Bedding according to the instructions on this link:

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=320811&highlight=nemohunter+beds

Polished the trigger following a youtube by Brimstone Gunsmithing--but I can't find a link right now.

And had the factory barrel rechambered and recrowned by Cameron Dearborn, a recommended guy on the rimfire central website.

The results were pretty good. Here's a 50yard 5 round group shot off a backpack with Wolf Match (the round is a cheapy Rem put in for scale--by the time I took the pic I'd shot up the Wolf):



I don't know if the flyer was the first shot or my fault or both.

The rifle looks pretty stock:



More 50 yard fun:




Off-hand and getting lucky.

I've got another one for a loaner, has a 20" heavy taper Green Mt barrel that shoots almost as good. New barrel and rechambering cost about the same.

Careful, it's easy to get obsessive about the darn things.

Ella

I agree the best 200 dollars you'll ever spend is by getting a full tune up from Randy at CPC. He'll do a full trigger job, redo your bolt, and do the barrel. .25 inches at 50 yrds is the results. Lots of the rifles shoot much better than that.

Not a lot of options if you don't want a bull barrel. I've seen Shilen and Pac-Nor offerings for sporter weight barrels, but nothing in the various catalogs we all get regularly.
I've got an early Classic Sporter and want to keep the lighter weight. Shoots good enough for head shooting squirrels to 50 yards, but always looking to improve any of my rifles.

I put a Kidd 2 stage trigger,bolt,cocking assy,and buffer on mine.
For the sporter weight barrel I went with Green Mountain.
It looks just like a Walmart special,don't let looks fool you.

Look,
Here's a barrel !!!!
https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbth.../1/FS_Ruger_10_22_Barrel_Green_Mo#UNREAD