Took the next 6 days off because I had so much vacation time built up. Been looking around at a lot of 10/22 options for the last month or so. Really like wood stocks, but still hate it when they get beat up from getting a lot of use. Did some serious digging on Ruger 10/22's, but finally realized stock options were quite limited if you wanted a threaded barrel.

So, said screw it and decided to build exactly what I want from the ground up. Went with all Kidd hardware and a Hogue Overmolded stock in what they call "High Terrain Camo" color that will handle the .920" match barrel. I've got a real nice silver Leupold VX3 3.5-10x40 just sitting that's never been mounted, 2 sets of different size silver Tally rings in original packages, and a made to order Harris 6-9" bipod still in the bag.

This pic is only to show what stock looks like, not the hardware I've purchased.


18-2 KIDD Aftermarket Barreled Action Classic Slip-Fit with Build Options
RECEIVER COLOR: Silver (Expect 2 week delay)
BARREL OPTION: 18" Match .920 Bead Blast
MUZZLE THREADING OPTION: muzzle threading & cap (1/2"-28) on stainless steel .920 bull - 50.00
TRIGGER UNIT OPTION: single stage silver - 199.95
MAGAZINE RELEASE LEVER: extended (medium)
BOLT COLOR & FINISH: silver matte - 99.95
BOLT HANDLE ASSEMBLY OPTION: Silver with Black Viton - 29.95
805.85 1 805.85
Subtotal: 805.85
Discount(s): 0.00
Taxes:
0.00
Shipping:
9.00
TOTAL: 814.85

Local_dirt: Thats a great looking stock there - sounds like you are going to have an especially nifty Rifle when you get it all together.
Be sure to let us know how it shoots when you get it to the range.
Enjoy your vacation time - doing what you want to do!
Hold into the wind
VarmintGuy

I have a hogue stock on my 10/22 and love it. That should be a heck of a gun when you are done. Have fun with it. Make sure you post some pictures.

Thanks, fellas. Will definitely post some pics and range stats when I get it built. Chomping at the bit already.

Gonna be about 2 weeks before I can expect to receive everything.

You'll love it. I did the Kidd barreled action thing with their tapered barrel and a hogue stock. Single stage trigger. Wish I went two stage. Regardless it's a value for sure. I was a super big cz fan boy till I got this.

Is that Hogue stock pillared bedded? That set up should be a very accurate shooter. As already mentioned, please keep us posted with results once it all gets put together.

10-22 and tack driver are not in the same sentence

Have you shot any lately? I shot a stock Ruger 10/22 with a $100 Nikon rimfire scope Monday and it was dotting eyes on dimes at 50.
Just sayin.

woodson, thanks. I went with the single stage trigger based on a lot of research on it and the fact it was around $100 less. Couldn't find one single person poo-poo'ing the single stage, and after a long conversation with their customer service dept decided to go that route.

Pretty much everything is on sale at Kidd right now, like a lot of armorers around the country during the summer. I had priced out a package a few months ago and it was up around $1100. With the Kidd setup and the Hogue, I'm right at $900 out the door, no tax.

Idholton: Many years ago I bought a heavy stainless Lilja barrel that Dan Lilja had match chambered.
I attached it to a Deluxe Ruger 10/22 with the standard factory method and had some trigger work and a barrel channel re-sizing done.
I still remember the price for that Lilja barrel from 25 years (or so) ago - $260.00 which was way more than I paid for the then new Ruger Deluxe 10/22!
Accuracy was (and is!) pretty good with this rig - even after way more than 100,000 rounds have gone down that tube!
I now have a 6x24 power variable scope on it and I can often hit the head of a Ground Squirrel out at 100 yards or so (especially in no wind conditions).
I kind of have to disagree with your contention (that 10/22 and tack driver are not in the same sentence) at least as far as this - if someone wants to start out a 10/22 on the road to accuracy then most likely that accuracy in that platform will be intended for small game and Varmint Hunting!
If said 22 Long Rifleman wants to compete in rimfire bench rest competitions then more than likely that shooter would start out with a bolt action, single shot of top quality manufacture, already.
Yep my Remington 40X 22 L.R. is slightly more accurate but its a single shot and cost WAY more than even my semi-customized Ruger 10/22!
As was my Kimber 82-G and maybe even my Kimber Model 22 H/S (Hunter/Silhouette).
I have shot along side some of those BR type 22 L.R.'s out in the Ground Squirrel Colonies and what small measure of accuracy I give up to them with my 10/22's I more than make up for in rapid fire without loosing sight picture while the actions are worked/working!
My Lilja barreled 10/22 shoots rather well... AND... it shoots rapidly - and I now have a bevy of 10, 15, 25 and 50 round magazines for it!
Rapid fire is the baliwick of the Ruger 10/22 and over the decades I have seen some very accurate 10/22's come down the pike (rapid firing as they came!).
So I somewhat disagree with your blanket statement.
Long live the Ruger 10/22!
Hold into the wind
VarmintGuy

Really??? Never noticed

If I was to play with 10 22 again I would for sure full lenght bed the barrel and float the action

Move to Texas. They got bigger tacks.

I use small tacks here in Floriduh. That's 5 shots BTW.



10/22 Deluxe of 1970s vintage, only thing done to it was bedding and a Power Custom trigger mod.

Dan, that's funny.

woodson, you'll be pleased to know that I got on the horn first thing this a.m. and had Shaylee swap out the single stage for a 2 stage, red trigger.
Had them leave it set at 2.5 lbs. I'll probably adjust it down to 2 lbs. Possibly further, if I feel the need.

They are proud of those 2 stage triggers!

BTW, and FYI for anybody purchasing from Kidd. They do their shipments on Thursdays. My package was already packed and waiting for the happy truck. So much for a 2 week delay!

my 10/22 is no benchrest, but it shoots nice groups at 50 yrds that most folks would refer to as a tack driver.
it is not stock though.

They definitely are capable of that!

You'll really be pleased with the two stage. It really is a gem.

woodson, I'm guessing it's a really fine trigger. They sure think highly of them.

It's only money. Can't take it with you. And since I decided not to travel this week, I've got a few bucks to spend on my kind of bling.

Gotta hit the beach now for a nice shrimp Caesar and check out the eye candy. After that, LGS's. Busy, Busy.

What glass you putting on it? I went cheap and put a Nikon 4-12 with mildots on it. Works just fine but I do wish I had chosen a model with an adjustable objective.

woodson, good question. I'm kinda torn on that one. I've got a brandy new silver VX3 3.5-10x40 I bought for another project that's really too big for that gun that I'm seriously considering, but I also have a Bushnell Elite 6-24x40 AO that is also NIB I bought a couple years ago from nice older guy in VA that was scaling down who had a ton of nice chit, and I do mean a ton. Had 3 safes packed to the gills in his basement. Couldn't afford to spend the kind of coin a lot of his stuff would bring, but all of it was the schizzle, and several more at another house. The kind of stuff we gun loonies here drool over. A friend and I bought about 8-10 scopes from him, all pristine.

Here are the 2 scopes. I'm sure either one will dot a squirrel's eye with the setup I've got coming.

You think the Leupold is to big but your considering the Bushnell, hmmm.

The Leup 3.5 - 10 x 40 A.O. is probably my favorite scope for most jobs and rifles. Lacking the A.O. I'd save it for a centerfire or at least set the parralax to 50 yrds or so.

There again, you're the only one that has to be pleased with the set-up.


Dave.

Dave, "too big for" was referring to the gun that I originally bought the scope for that it didn't go on.

The 3.5-10x40 is not AO.

Cheers.

Just waiting on the stock now. Should be in tomorrow. UPS doesn't deliver today. Darn.

Put the lightest spring in. I forget what color it is. It will cycle everything.

Woodson, there's one that has some red spray paint on it and one that has nothing on it.

...I have to agree...and I have shot a lot of 10/22s...

That said I think he was talking about a RUGER 10/22. What is being built here is of the basic 10/22 design but is not exactly a "Ruger"....not even the receiver. It is like comparing an off the showroom Camero to one that someone has put $50K in high performance parts into to make it track ready...both will go around the track but one is always going to get to the finish line first.

A semi-auto tack driver would be great...but from everything I have seen and read it comes with a hefty price tag...

I think the OP's project is great and can't wait to see how it shoots...

Bob

Just dropped the barreled action and stock off to my gunnie to be inletted, mounted, and possibly lightly glassed this afternoon. After a few whirlwind, but very enlightening conversations with my gunnie and another gunnie out in AK who knows one of my long time buds very well, the answers to my many questions boiled down to just a few answers.

While both gunnies are fully capable of completely glass bedding the action, doing the pillaring, and floating the barrel, both advised me against it. It may turn a 3/8" gun into a 1/4" gun at 50 yds, but why bother?

Their consensus opinions were to simply inlet the stock, maybe maybe a little glass under the chamber, and make sure the barrel floats in its channel. Cost? Quote from my local gunnie - $60-75. Both fellas figured this to make it a .5" gun all day every day, possibly better, and I can definitely live with that.

Been spending most of my research time over the last couple days looking at cans for this rifle and some pistols. My findings thus far are leading me to believe that monolithic cores are the better way to go. YMMV.

Best to All.
LD

Bob, I am inclined to agree with you in that 10/22 semi-auto's are probably not going to make it to tack driver, one ragged hole status. But, may get close, which is really what I'm trying to accomplish here.

You may be familiar with what both my and my buddy's gunnies advised for out of the box reliability regarding a .22lr tack driver. It's called a CZ 452. Ring a bell?

Change the parallax on that Leupold yourself. Won't take but 15 minutes or so. I just did that very thing to my Leupold VARI X III 3.5-10 x 40 that I just mounted on my .22 LR

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/10414282/Re:_Changing_Parallax_Yourself#Post10414282

Just don't try to do the above to a scope with an adjustable objective lense. Just FYI

Bed the barrel float the action

Thanks

How is this accomplished?? How is the barrel attached to the stock??

avagado, I think he just had it backwards.

actually this is not the first time i've heard of someone doing this with a 10/22 but i have not seen the actual results from anyone either.
i would be very interested in hearing more on the process if it is really being done.

My build may have some glass bedding under the action, and possibly the chamber, to be sure the barrel floats properly.

Out of the box vs. custom makes a BIG difference.

Here's one with a Walther by Clark, trigger job I did using Clark parts. I glassed it and installed a trigger stop (Brownells). This one has a can and is really quiet. It'll shoot one hole at 50' with Rem. Subsonics, even better with W/W Wildcats.

DF

You may want to rethink that. If the barrel is screwed in the action, maybe.

With the Ruger barrel retaining set up, you're better off with the barrel glassed and the action screw pulling against the barrel lock up. You can glass the lug, but IME, the barrel needs to be under tension due to how Ruger engineered it.

I also fitted the barrel pretty tight in the action, which seems to help.

DF

no not backwards ,I think some research is in order by some

I think he's saying about the same thing I said. Glass the barrel in the forward channel. Let the action screw put downward pressure on the lug. The retaining lug is on the bottom. By pulling downward, it stiffens the barrel/action joint. A tight receiver/barrel fit helps. Aftermarket barrels often have the action shank slightly oversize to be cut down until a tight barrel/receiver fit is obtained. I actually glass the bottom of the lug with downward pressure on the barrel/recieiver. The lug under some pressure, sitting in glass seems to me to stiffen the jumction even more and may dampen vibration.

Some custom jobs actually thread and screw the barrel into the receiver, eliminating the Ruger lug set up. Some aftermarket receivers are steel, not aluminum.

With the factory Ruger barrel retaining lug set up, doing it as described works well. I wouldn't float a barrel that wasn't threaded and screwed into a receiver. And, even then, I'm not sure it would be any better than what I've described.

Others may want to chime in. One hole groups sorta make a statement.

DF

For what it is worth I have called and talked to the guys at Clark Custom and they recommended bedding the barrel and floating the action too. With only one action screw on the factory Ruger receiver it tends to rock, which bedding the barrel helps. Not sure how this plays out if you add one of the Kidd rear action screws, but I plan to find out.

wish we would have just went with a full Kidd barreled action, but I always have to learn the hard way!

I bed the receiver so it's super solid. Not sure how a rear action screw works, haven't seen one.

I have the lug resting in glass as it pulls downward on the action/barrel junction. Not sure if that helps, just seems to me it should dampen vibrations and stop any lateral movement.

A tight barrel/action fit is good. I had to slowly cut the Clark/Walther barrel shank to snugly fit in the action. A tight fit cuts down on slop and has to have a positive effect on vibrations.

DF

This is a full Kidd barreled action.

how about posting a couple pictures of the bedding area? i know i would really appreciate it, as i have yet to bed mine.

I'll try to get those photos posted this PM.

I'd like to see photos of that Kidd action and how the rear action screw works.

DF

I edited to delete "receiver lug". That was an error. I bed the receiver so it, like the barrel, rests on glass as downward tension is applied by the lug/"V" block screw.

I'll get those bedding photos posted tonight.

I try to eliminate all the motion I can while keeping tension on the barrel/receiver hook up.

DF

Nice plan on the 10-22. I hope you have better luck with the elite 6-24 than I did with an elite 10x tactical I had on my 10-22. I simply couldn't get it to focus at 25 yds and marginally at 50 yds. and also had an issue with paralax. With a center fire I could live with a scope that is a little fuzzy at closer range, but not so on a 22 rf. I put a leupold 3.5-10 on it and that cured the focus issue.

Thanks, 458. I may just go with the Leupold VX3 3.5-10 anyway. I'll have to check viz with both scopes once I get the gun back.

One reason I may go with the Leupold 3.5-10 is I want to be able to carry it in the woods. The Bushnell 6-24x40 AO is a big scope and probably great for a benchrest gun or a bigger center fire, but maybe not so great on a light as a feather carry 10/22.

I like the Leupold 3-9x33 EFR pictured above. It's a great .22 scope. I can adjust parallax any way I want, can shoot on my 50' indoor range with no problem.

DF

Here are the bedding photos I promised.

I bedded the rear of the receiver and the forward barrel channel as shown. I then came back and bedded the V block with mild downward pressure. Once it's all dry, I can snug the action screw which I feel dampens vibrations, stiffens the barreled action and eliminates movement from recoil.

Be sure the safety is in neutral position so it won't dig into the wood as the barreled action is removed from the stock.

Not my prettiest bedding job, but it seems to work.

DF

Dirt farmer did you apply the forearm bedding after you bedded the action ?

Two phase bedding.

First phase, bed the rear of the action and the forward barrel channel as shown. Don't tighten the action screw very much.

Second phase, glass the sides of the action and under the V block. Tighten the action screw, putting tension (not a lot) on the barreled action.

I'm not sure how others do it, this method seemed to work for me.

DF

Once dry, you can snug the action screw down pretty tight, securing the V block.

DF

i have a different approach or thought process about bedding but again i was dealing with a bolt action. i bedded and installed pillars in my M77/22 and bedded the first 1 1/2" under the barrel but i wanted a stress free set up. if i needed upward barrel pressure at the forearm then i would add it back in later. i ended up not putting it back in as the free floated barrel shot well. after drilling out the action screw holes i installed the pillars to the action with the action screws and some tape wrapped around the screws to keep them centered in the pillars. tightened the screws good and tight and made sure plenty or release was on the end of the pillar that was up against the action. plenty of release on the action as well. then set the whole assembly into the bedding goo and strap in to hold until set. after setting then i undid the action screws and pulled the action out of the stock. now when i reassemble the action to the stock i have a stress free set up. it's the only way to get a repeatable bolt up. If any pressure pad is need then it is applied afterwards. i was thinking along the same lines for my 10/22. i have the barrel free floated now and it's shooting pretty good. i have the GM sporter barrel on it not a bull barrel so barrel droop has not been an issue for me yet.

Agree with that approach for a bolt gun.

The way the 10-22 is put together with the V block, this way seems best. I do pillar and float bolt guns, but those barrels are screwed tightly into the receiver.

Some custom makers do the 10-22 that way, but with the factory V block set up, I don't think bedding the action and floating the barrel will work as well as this set up.

I've heard about the Kidd with a rear action screw, haven't seen it, even looking at their web site. With front and rear action screws maybe bedding it like a bolt gun would work OK.

DF

My M77/22 is the same slip fit setup as the 10/22.
one other option if the barrel fit is a tad loose to the action is to loct-tight it into the action. or use the aftermarket V-Block with the barrel tension screw.

LD,

You gotta this fugkin' thing put together yet?




Travis

No chit??

Been at the gunnie's since end of last week. Chompin' at the bit, but trying to keep from bugging him.

Good call actually.




Travis

The guy's good, so he's usually busy. I've been taking my guns to him for over 10 years. He's telling me middle of next week. I can wait that long.

Picked these up today from opticsplanet.com while waiting for rifle to come back from gunnie. Decided to hold onto both other scopes for future projects. Couldn't pass on the deal they gave me. Discounted the scope $20 and basically gave me the sunshade, plus no shipping and no tax. Rings were only $1 more than the cheapest I could find them for anywhere else. So, decided to lump everything together in 1 shipment. Total for everything was $170.75. Happy camper.

Mueller 4.5-14x40mm AO APV with sunshade - $113.76 total


Leupold Quick Release Weaver Style QRW - $56.99

For whatever reason Bushnell doesn't bother to tell anyone that is a centerfire scope paralaxed at 150 yards...there is no way to use it under 75...had one and sold it. Why anyone would put out a 10X scope with no PA is beyond me...

Bob

if it doesn't have an AO or side focus and if it isn't labeled as a rimfire scope, why would you think it would be fine to use at 25 & 50 yrds?

Thanks for the info on the Bushnell, fellas. Glad I went with my gut feeling and went with the Mueller scope that's been proven on a 10/22 platform.

Bob, that sure is interesting that Bushnell doesn't share that information.

There are several threads out there on how to adjust parallax down to 50-75 yards. Wouldn't let that stop me ... or get a super chicken for a c-note more ....

George, thanks. I'm committed on the Mueller and can't really see myself being unhappy with it for this gun. We'll see.

But, I like what I've read about the super chicken. We don't hear much about SWFA down here. Everything I've learned is mostly from here. Why? I don't know. Seeing a lot of them used further west with great results. May just have to check one out. Might have to get 2 more AR's, instead of one..

What do you recommend? 10x42? That thing looks like a tank, with a lot of happy campers using it.

For GP shooting off-hand and paper (< 50 yards) I'd go either 6x (or 10x if more supported shooting than offhand). If it's a bench game or bipods in the field 16x might not be a bad choice. I don't dig'em much more than that.