I loaded 85 TSX's in my kids 243's, started them at .050" off the lands and both shot best 3/10 under max.

I want to fine tune the load with seating depth, would you suggest +/- .010" or .020"?

.040", .030", etc, and don't be surprised if they don't shoot best at .050+.

I read a thread a few years ago that Kamo Gary started about seating Barnes deep to get them to shoot good. It worked great the three times I tried it. Basically, seat them to the deepest cannelure and work up. In other words the neck stops at the cannelure as if you were gonna crimp it. After the third go around with the same results, I'm confident I can get them to shoot good with minimal range time if the rifle is any good.

If I load one set longer and one set shorter, is .010 enough or add/subtract .020?

I loaded TTSX's this year at.030, .050, and .070 off and all shot between 1/2 and 3/4 inch with the best going to the .050 off the lands load. .030 was a little under 5/8 and the .070 at 3/4.

I have done 40 or so rifles for monos, mostly Barnes. Some are best at .010 off and some have been beyond .125.

If they don't shoot at .050 I just move up to .010 off and back up in .010 increments. It can get to be a PITA, but methodic approach is fastest and cheapest.

I loaded for a 243 TC Icon with the 85 gr Barnes TSX. I started at .050 off the lands and they were ok but not spectacular loads. I went to .040 and .030 and the groups opened up. I eneded up.080 of the lands and they shot lights out.
The powder was IMR4064.

Bill

.o7-.08 is where I have found barnes work for my sako

Seat 'em deep on the Barnes.

Seems all mine end up with the first band right at the case mouth. Some claim a kiss is the place to be, but the only bullets I've ever shot that needed a kiss were 75 Amax.

I recommend STARTING with a load that uses the uppermost - towards the pointy end - band as if it were a cannelure, even to the point of putting a bit of crimp into that groove and 8 tmes out of ten that load is among the best. IF that does not work, then I try .010 off and .050 off. If none of those shoots well, I MIGHT try one or two more loads, but most likely I will figure the barrel to be too dainty or sensitive or picky or finicky or whatever term you want to use. But in essence I am thinking new barrel rather than spend a whole lot more time and energy on it. Rarely do I have to use other than the top uppermost band with a crimp.

Thread was by Safariman. That's right. Sorry man.

I've only shot X's in a couple/few hundred barrels and this schit never doesn't not crack me the [bleep] up.

Kiss,find pressure and rock on. Get a kick outta Boobs burning up components and whining about same.

Weatherby freebore an obvious hurdle,that mandates different moves and I like a caliber of shank with .003" constriction there.

Depends on the rifle. Like other bullets, regardless of construction, sometimes deep seating is best, other times it's not. My NULA .308 shoots the 168 TSX BT most accurately with the bullet seated at maximum recommended COAL for the cartridge, 2.81". A Cooper .270 is similar using the 130 TSX BT.

In developing a load, I start out initially loading 3 rounds with a less-than-max charge and seating the bullet just a bit short of engraving, then go .03" deeper, and finally .06" deeper. It's seldom one of these depths won't work well.

Who let you out of the crib?

It'd be funny to watch you screw schit up.

Would be very curious to see how your sizer/seater are set,in conjunction with the other cluelessness. It takes an epic [bleep] Boob,to be quoting "max recommended COAL for the cartridge,2.81" "...in a 3" box. Funny schit!

It's fairly impressive,how far folks go,to [bleep] schit up on purpose.

Wow.

max COL for me is the mag box length minus .005". No sense restricting the load, especially if using heavy for cal bullets.

With the TTSX I start as far out as I can, work back from there if necessary. My Sako's let me use all the mag box without jamming the throat.

Stick, the throat is different by .015 between the rifles and I don't want to work up different loads. Just fine tune what works right now and they can interchange ammo without jamming bullets if needed. In my rifles base to ogive is maxed out from the start.

If you know why my 223 follower is jacked up let me know, pm if needed.

You simply build ammo in accords to kiss the shortest throat. No thang and the only good move you've got. I segregate ammo for rifles,by different color,shape or style of ammo box and good notes on same. Controlling seating depth,is the single greatest attribute of Reloading. Hint.

Typically,the front of the box is a generality and their tops are particulars,with load notes affixed internally on the underside of the lid. Cain't like stickers there and use markers expressly.

Do whatever it takes,so your schit makes sense to you.



Now as to follower drag,that is no thang. As per always,I'd suggest the "Start At The [bleep] Start" Thread and take notes,then apply same. It well covers most thangs,pertaining to F/F(feed/function).

Your follower is jacked,because you [bleep] sumptin' up.(grin)

After getting a tight fitting magbox married balls deep to the receiver,you always wanna drift your follower through it's internals(upside down spring dangle) and ascertain it flies freely. If/when adjusting poorly oriented OEM magbox feed rails,it is possible to getcha an amidship magbox roadblock,that will impede the follower's travel. I simply take a chunka wedge,set it inside the box and tap lightly,so as to allow more width through the guts...less changing feed rail geometry. 'Bout 3 seconds of "work".

Not all followers is equal and if it ain't milled,it's [bleep] junk. Follower ride height and spring geometry is easily discerned atta glance and if your follower isn't fully kissing parallel on the receiver's underside,when the box has no ammo...you's got f/f issues.

Simply bend the spring so schit is riding square,prior to install and confirm that geometry ain't skewed,after install.

Hit that Thread and thank me later.

Hey...where did all the "Precision" Land Leapers go?!!?

Laffin'!

RDW, how can you know were you really are if you don't start from a kiss? I would think after finding the sweet spot on each rifle then you could extrapolate your next move for an all around.

Its hard to get lost starting from the start/

I am still here, amigo. Glad to see that you are back posting. Your experience and knowledge here are missed when you cannot or do not post much. I explain my views differently than you do, but few have shot as much as you have and your barrel break in video is THE best vid of riflery I have ever seen!

My experience with Barnes and other big game bullets is usually with rifles that have some freebore in them and that likely colors my results more toward 'precision land leaping' <G>

Although, I have had good luck seating them deep and pushing them hard in a couple of rifles who did not have much freebore. Next gun that I load for that is not my own, I will try your method first VS my old favorite and see what results I get.

Getting a new PacNor tube on my FN sporting Mauser so can try both extremes on it when done. Being a 257WBY, it will have some freebore in the throat.

Love the captions on some of the boxes:

"Chink blaster"

"Chub"

"Pinky"


Boxer, 223 or 243, hell even 22-250? Remington or Montana? AI or not

Good point setting up both rifles for the shorter throat.


Started from scratch, box was flush and snug in the corners, seam was closed and bottom of the box level at the gap. A few jumped the rails yesterday so I wedged the front third of the box out a little.

Reassembled the parts and pulled the bolt, the bolt head pulled the follower to the rear and down. It felt like a lot of compression on the spring so I squeezed two of three bends and tried again, the follower stayed forward in the box when I pulled the bolt back.

I worked the spring a bit to keep the follower level and loaded four dummies, fed all slick. I repeated and twenty fed, fast or slow without a failure.

Not ten minutes of time starting at the start, thanks.

safari',

I'm afforded the luxury of not being forced to guess.

Hint.(grin)










George',

I shoot a smidge.

The only reason I'd stay SAAMI in any of the chamberings cited,is when driving same...in a Krunchenticker.

Do it get better than a 223AI,22-250AI or 243AI in a Montucky?

Nope.









RDW,

I hear good thangs,in regards to your latest approach.(grin)

Boxer,

My conundrum lies in Lapua making brass for all three. Eenie meenie miney moe is always a valid decision making process

For an all day/every day...day in/day out Utility Rifle...I want a fast twist 223AI,if only because I've got 'em all(223 and 223A,22-250 and 22-250AI,243 and 243AI),in more than one twist rate.

The Montana 223AI steals the show and has sold a [bleep] load of rifles,in rather short order.(grin)

Why the 223AI over the 243AI as a "utility" rifle? I would have though it'd be the other way around.

Cheap cheap cheap

It can be if you want it to be.....

RDW

Although there are no hard set rules for determining a rifles preferred OAL other then to experiment, I found John's (AussieGunWriters) method works for me.

'Deer,

Mild manners,mild recoil,mild report,mild powder appetite,meaningful BC's at meaningful speed,shorter barrel length,yada,yada,yada...coupled with eerie Precision.

I love the 223AI wayyyyyyyyyy past 1K.










George,

I read in F&S...that it do indeed offer alotta bang for the buck.

Pun be intended too.(grin)











16',

While I know lotsa guys who have 223's,223AI's,22-250's,22-250AI's,243's and 243AI's all...I do not know anyone who drives the 243AI as a mainstay Utility Rifle,if only for conversation.

That being said,I fling more 105's than any of 'em,though I fling far more 75's too.(grin)










'Yen,

That's right up there,with some of the dumbest [bleep] [bleep] I've ever read.

Just sayin'.

Hint.

Running leap stole the show and holes don't lie. Utility 260.....