I'm thinking of starting another bedding job. This time on a Remngton 700 ADL. It has an aftermarket HS Precision stock (aluminum) on it. Any issues with bedding aluminum stocks or Remington actions that I should be aware of before I proceed? Anyone have any pics of where to apply the bedding material? Thanks.

Skim bed the action area and 1" infront of the lug. JMO

What's the difference between bedding and skim bedding? Less material? I will research it some. Thanks.

You need to scuff the aluminum with sand paper to make sure the epoxy sticks.

If it shoots nice now, I wouldn't mess with it though. Those HS stocks usually shoot pretty good without bedding.

I was planning on doing some light drilling of holes to help hold it and then scuff it? The barrel channel was huge for the sporter barrel and off center. I had it re barreled with a thicker contour to "fill" the channel and noticed the barrel no longer free floated. I sanded it out and free floated it. I have only shot 2 loads through it and thought it could do better and be more consistent. I had one great group almost 3 through the same hole then went back to the range and tried 6 rounds of that same load and couldn't reproduce the results. I figured heck I may as well bed it? Guess I could try a few more loads before bedding?

Check for rub marks on the front of the recoil shoulder in the stock and the back of the recoil lug of the barreled action.

If there's movement causing rub marks, until you bed it you're just spitting into the wind testing loads.

I will check it out.

just skim bedded 2 H-S lightweight stocks. One stock bolted up solid before bedding, the other stock had a pronounced rock while bolting up. Did one with Acra-glas and the other with devcon. Both shooting around half inch now

Esox, you may want to ask Rick Bin and Eddie Fausnaugh. Those guys are fn awesome with bedding remington 700's. When I bed them, it's under the whole receiver. It's up to you whether you put a little under the chamber area, but generally I just freefloat the whole barrel, even under the chamber...Your idea of drilling shallow holes to help anchor the bedding is a good idea along with scuffing it up well. I'd also use devcon steel 10110 bedding compound and call it a day..

Check channel on left (if you bed it, too) for clearance of bolt release. Bedded my .280 Rem BDL DM that way and had to dremel a bit away to be able to depress the bolt stop...

Thanks BSA and the other guys. Anyone have any pics? Can someone differentiate "Skim Bedding" from "Bedding"? Not sure of the method?

Bedding is much more in depth. Ie Pillars, lots of stock work, bedding blocks etc.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yC3soqc66ds

Adding a fine layer to correct small imperfections between the stock (or in this case bedding block) and the action is Skim Bedding.

This is how I understand it anyways.

Pretty much. I wish Eddie F or Rick bin would post some pics of some of their work. Here is one I did a while back (actualy a rem 788) and it is not very good work, but at least it is a picture so you have an idea of where the glass goes. Accuracy was excellent. I left a little clearance on the bottom and front of the recoil lug:

Thanks for the link Panh!

NICE BSA!! I will give it a shot.

Here is another link I found on a way to bed if anyone is interested on how they did it? http://rdprecision.net/do-it-yourself-action-bedding/

I've bedded several 700s of own and a few for others. One of my go to hunting rifles is a 700 SS 30-06 bedded in an HSP stock/aluminum bedding block. HSP claims that no bedding is necessary. I skim bedded the action, paying close attention to the recoil lug area and the tang. The rifle went from a 2" shooter to this:

Good go know. I may just do the bedding block and tang and skip the skim bedding it looks like it could turn into a mess quick?

Nicely done though getting it to shoot like that.

Did you "inlet" or remove much of the stock before bedding?

The stock you have will only need skim bedding if the RIFLE tells you it needs it.
The only way to tell when you have an ALUMINIUM BEDDING BLOCK already in the stock is to soot the barreled action and carefully reinstall it into the stock, torque the action screws and then dismantle it again. You then need to look at the contact points and decide if a skim job is needed. This is normally done when the stock is made to ensure good contact before it is shipped.
The biggest thing with these stocks is the fact that the pillars are in full contact with the action, and when assembling the rifle after teardown that you pull the rifle rearward to make full contact with the recoil lug, if not it will shoot erratically.
If you decide to skim bed this rifle, do not make the recoil lug tight, you will regret it later on, trust me, if it has full contact now, I would leave it alone. Skim bedding means just that, a skim layer of bedding to fill small imperfections, you do not inlet, drill or remove bedding block or stock material, just a light scuffing of the aluminium is ample. You will still need to leave room for the recoil lug on the sides and in front, but this area is done from the factory 'just right' anyway.
Repeatability in a load is not always due to a poor stock bed, it can be caused by the weather, heat, humidity etc.

Cheers.

Very well explained. I appreciate your advice on the stock. Someone said Prussia Blue could help identify if it is rubbing as well? Not sure since I have never used/heard of it? I will post back once I get her figured out and my results. Thanks.

I just checked for high points, roughed up the bed areas and skim bedded. Pretty easy. Use plenty of release agent and don't rush the job.

Sounds good,

I will be doing some work on it. Hunting season is right around the corner so trying to do everything slow and methodical. It may have to sit this season out? Hoping not but still need to work up some loads and get her skim bedded.

Shouldn't take more than a weekend if you take your time.

I remember those day. Now it only takes about 30-40 minutes. Especially a skim bed job. Esox, what ever you do, good luck my friend. I'm sure you'll get her figured out like you did with your Hawkeye.

With the exception of waiting for the bedding epoxy to set, that's about all it would take if you have experience. Then disassembly, clean-up and re-assembly. Sometimes it takes me 15 minutes to get the mess cleaned up.

Thanks BSA, skim bedding shouldn't be to much of an issue and I will be asking for more information from you guys if I need clarification on it ;o). If I get this thing shooting like that Ruger I will be ecstatic!

1deer, business travel and other things have a way of taking up time. I hope that things will slow down enough to actually start focusing on the things I want to do? Never seems to have a few hours to sit idle?

Your preaching to the choir, brother. I just flew back in from Milwaukee Wednesday, got in at 3am, got a little sleep, back to work and I have a week off for some R&R this week with the family.

Esox357,
You can definately use prussian blue, it's normally used in engine assembly for checking valve seats.
Automtive supplies should stock it, it is a little messy but cleans up well with alcohol.
Hope it works out for you, good luck.

Cheers.

This is the stuff you want. A jar will last a lifetime.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...ounds/inletting-black-gold-prod7599.aspx

If you want to get into stress free bedding using pillars, or just obtain quality supplies, go here: http://www.scorehi.com/

Or read this wall of text by Darrel Holland about stress free bedding: http://www.varminthunters.com/tech/pillarbedding.html

Or go here and look at the gunsmithing link for more stuff. http://www.hollandguns.com/

Enjoy the time off there Sir!

Thanks Wrangler and 416, that inletting should do great since I don't have any "blue" at the moment. Great suggestions by all!