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Posted By: cotis Best product to lubricate bolt? - 06/22/15
I have a T/C Icon which has the massive bolt. There is a lot of bearing surface in contact with the receiver. When it runs dry it is noticeably less smooth to operate. What is a good, long lasting lube for this application? Thanks
Lucas Red 'N Tacky grease. $5 for a big tube at auto parts store. Good adhesion and works well.
Originally Posted by cotis
I have a T/C Icon which has the massive bolt. There is a lot of bearing surface in contact with the receiver. When it runs dry it is noticeably less smooth to operate. What is a good, long lasting lube for this application? Thanks


Work it about a thousand times. Should take about 4 beers.
Originally Posted by cotis
I have a T/C Icon which has the massive bolt. There is a lot of bearing surface in contact with the receiver. When it runs dry it is noticeably less smooth to operate. What is a good, long lasting lube for this application? Thanks



Frog Lube CLP on the bolt and the inside of the receiver and use bolt grease on the lugs.
Originally Posted by jeffbird
Lucas Red 'N Tacky grease. $5 for a big tube at auto parts store. Good adhesion and works well.


I bought a jar of it at Advance. Great grease!!!
After reading an article by, I think Hamilton Bowen, I got a big can of moly truck bearing grease and a bottle of DriSlide. The article claimed those were all a boy would ever need for lubing guns. Both are messy, but very effective.

Out of the box, my Ruger Hawkeye Predator had that gravelly-feeling bolt that folks like to complain about. After putting a little of that grease on all the contact points and running it a bit, it's slicker than snot on a doorknob.
I use army surplus rifle grease originally made for M-1 and M-14 rifles. However, most any automotive grease will work quite well. I go by the old rule of "if it rotates, oil it. If it slides, grease it."
Get her wet enough and you'll never have to lube your bolt...
automatic tranny fluid. IF needed.

also very good for removing rust when said part is soaked for a few days.
Mobil 1
Why would one put grease on a part that can be hit with dirt and sand?
Originally Posted by Oldelkhunter
Why would one put grease on a part that can be hit with dirt and sand?


At a minimum, grease should be put on the rear face of the lugs to prevent galling, and aid opening after firing.
A high-tech dry chain lube from a bike store.

They're designed to lubricate the chain and gears but repel dirt... White Lightning is one commonly available.

Or just use a spray furniture polish or car wax.
Originally Posted by jeffbird
Originally Posted by Oldelkhunter
Why would one put grease on a part that can be hit with dirt and sand?


At a minimum, grease should be put on the rear face of the lugs to prevent galling, and aid opening after firing.


there and the cocking cam on the lugs internally
I've used Break-Free CLP for years, with good results.
I recently switched from grease to Machine Gunner's Lube for my bolts, AR's and Shotgun. It's moly based, goes on really thin, retains lubricity longer, attracts less dirt, and operates -50 to 650F.

Till something better comes along......
Jeez, we're not talking about high pressure, hundreds or thousands of cycles a minute here..

Run her in dry while watching a ball game on TV and drinking beer.

It will loosen up.
Mil-Comm gun lubricant spray on the bolt and Mil-Comm gun grease on the lugs. Its what the army uses and what Jim Borden recommended to me for our 2 guns he built us on his actions which have a bolt to receiver tolerances of .002". It works for me as I am sure others will work great as well.
Short of a bit of Shooter's Choice grease on the rear of the lugs, mine all run dry. RL's method is the one to follow.
I use Mil-Comm TW25B on the back of my bolt lugs and on the cocking cam threads/surface.
I was given a small tube of Lubriplate about 30 years ago. When I have get an urge to do so, I put the smallest amount of the stuff on a clean patch and apply it, and then do everything I can to remove it with another clean patch. Then I'll take that patch and wipe a couple of other bolts and what-have-yous.

After 30-some years, the tube is still mostly full. A wee bit of Lubriplate has gone a long long way.

Most of the time, when I clean a rifle, I clean with Ed's Red which has ATF in it.
vagisil is best for the Thompson products.
Originally Posted by Oldelkhunter



Frog Lube CLP on the bolt and the inside of the receiver and use bolt grease on the lugs.


This stuff is really, really good.
Any kind of light oil will work for the bolt body, the back of the lugs I put a dab of tetra gun grease.
Spit works.
Degrease the bolt first, then sit in the house and piss off your wife as you rack the bolt A pile of times. Your wasting your energy if it is oiled.
Originally Posted by Steelhead
Spit works.

That's what she said.
Originally Posted by Bighorn
I've used Break-Free CLP for years, with good results.


+1
Originally Posted by ironbender
Originally Posted by Steelhead
Spit works.

That's what she said.


There's an old Cuban expression basically stating same: "with patience and spit, the elephant phugged the ant"....
That's great advice, given the number of ant-****ERS around here.
For a permanent solution, coat the bolt with Black-T, Micro-Slick, or NP3.
Or Dyna-Tek Gun Shield, which will be cheap, quick and last a long time.
I've tried that John and it definitely works for a good amount of time.
Originally Posted by Grand
I recently switched from grease to Machine Gunner's Lube....it operates -50 to 650F.


What happens at 651°?

Originally Posted by Grand
Till something better comes along......


TW25B Mil Comm Grease

Lubriplate AA630 for the rifles, Astroglide for the gun.
I found some oil with the name "Slick as Snot". Great stuff and keeps working in both low and high temps. And it really is as the name says.
Prolix Xtra-T Dry Lube formula
Tang, white sand and water
Keep it simple, a dab of bearing grease or RIG is all it would take and nothing would work any better.
Lots of good advice here, thanks. I will try to find some of these products to try out.
Lots of good advice here, thanks. I will try to find some of these products to try out.
Originally Posted by Reloder28
Originally Posted by Grand
I recently switched from grease to Machine Gunner's Lube....it operates -50 to 650F.


What happens at 651°?

Originally Posted by Grand
Till something better comes along......


TW25B Mil Comm Grease



Nope: According to the Mfg, TW25B quits at 450f.

"BOTH low temperature dependability AND high temperature performance
-85° F to +450° F (-65° C to +232° C)"




The best way to lubricate your bolt, is use Remoil.

The best and most popular gun oil available.

I run a business and my motor oil is delivered in bulk
by semi. I also buy my grease by the case.

Lubing a bolt is not rocket science. tired
I run Mobil 1 in my ARs but my bolt guns just get a thin wipe down inside and out with Remoil.
Another vote for Mobil 1.
A synthetic, light weight, automotive engine oil for lubricating the bolt lugs?

What would you use to lubricate new rods and bearings in your engine or wheel bearings upon repacking?
Originally Posted by GeoW
A synthetic, light weight, automotive engine oil for lubricating the bolt lugs?

What would you use to lubricate new rods and bearings in your engine or wheel bearings upon repacking?


I am not dealing with RPM's in my bolt gun. Perazzi recommends oil for their bearing surfaces of their shotguns. Krieghoff recommends grease on their bearing surfaces. Both have a list of why one is better that the other, but both do suggest cleaning the bearing surface of either product after use and replace with new prior to reuse. I use Mobil 1 on my bolt guns and grease on my Krieghoff. I remember seeing where Mobil 1 had some anti-wear properties when used and is good for temperatures up to 500F if you were trying to melt an AR.
I switched to gun butter and like it nut I wasn't unhappy with plain bearing grease before. GB does have a great applicator for getting into tight spaces.
Just wipe the bolt down with a soaked rag, after cleaning, with any good gun oil (I like Rem Oil) and put a small amount of Shooters Choice gun grease on the locking lugs.
I use a tiny spec of GMC cam-shaft assembly lube on the back of the bolt lugs with a toothpick. Its sticky and will stay where its put until you wipe it off, and is made to prevent galling and even takes a little while to wash off parts in a running engine. If I find the wheel bearing grease before I find the assembly lube it might get that instead; its not an exact science.

Over the years I've collected many different gun oils, and combo cleaners and lubricants. A while back my son and I went on a bit of a rampage of trying different lubes on bolts; wiping it off and trying something else. Nothing worked as well as 0-40 Synthetic motor oil, which in my case just happened to be out of a gallon jug marked "Arctic Cat". I doubt that it would make any difference what brand it was.
Originally Posted by Grand
Originally Posted by Reloder28
Originally Posted by Grand
I recently switched from grease to Machine Gunner's Lube....it operates -50 to 650F.


What happens at 651°?

Originally Posted by Grand
Till something better comes along......


TW25B Mil Comm Grease



Nope: According to the Mfg, TW25B quits at 450f.

"BOTH low temperature dependability AND high temperature performance
-85° F to +450° F (-65° C to +232° C)"






I can accept that. And, I will get some of the Machine Gunner's Lube. But, what firearm are we going to deploy that needs a +600° lube? Is it the longevity factor you seek?
Marine Red oil

1 qt of Mobile 1 of other top synthetic MO
1 qt of any good synthetic ATF...Dextron
1 1/2 cup Marvel Mystery oil
2 cups STP


Enough for 3 life times

Thank me later. Work's for any firearm application..great for gas guns




Originally Posted by Farmboy1
The best way to lubricate your bolt, is use Remoil.

The best and most popular gun oil available.

I run a business and my motor oil is delivered in bulk
by semi. I also buy my grease by the case.

Lubing a bolt is not rocket science. tired


That's all I use. Definitely not rocket science here...
Ballistol, works great on any moving part except for greasing locking lugs.
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