I've been brave enough to bed a few rifles over the last 2-3 months and I've had good results until today. I bedded a little Ruger Compact 223 just like I've done all the rest. I used Devcon for my bedding material and Kiwi neutral shoe polish as the release agent. I applied the release agent to the appropriate areas of the action and then applied it to the screw threads. After letting the bedding set up for about 36 hours I went to remove the action from the stock. Both screws holding the trigger guard released easily enough(I bedded the tang area also). The problem was the main action screw. After managing to bugger up the screw somewhat on my own, I decided to take it to my gunsmith. He had to heat the action screw with a small torch to finally get it to break loose. The action came out of the stock with no problems at that point.

Guess I'll make sure from this point on to get at least 2-3 coats of release agent on all screws!!

That's nothing, I bedded my Montana 8400 and didn't have the BA coated well enough with One Shot and it took some serious force to pry the stock off, and when it snapped loose, I broke the trigger clean in half. Luckily, the trigger was better than pot metal and I was able to use the MIG and repair my F'up.

Knock on wood, so far I've been good with Remington, Winchester, Ruger and Montana. Hope I didn't just jinx myself!

Tate

Glad it worked out for you. This exact situation is one reason is use studs and not the action screws. Apply plenty of release agent especially the threads and after about 2 hours I turn the studs about a 1/8 of a turn to ensure they don't lock.

I use headless screws and seat the action in the Devcon with plenty of Devcon in the screw holes which I drill out later.

Also put a bag of shot on the action to hold the action deep in the Devcon during the cure.
John

I also use the headless action studs. After applying the bedding agent I use the elastic surgical tubing, two wraps and a "hooey".

I've done it with headless screws and that exact technique with surgical tubing, and with regular screws backed off a little. Have had good results with both, but tend to prefer the actual sction screws since they're what will be holding the action in the stock.

Did glue one action in a stock about 20 years ago and have been more careful since!

I accidentally used Hornady One Shot "Gun Cleaner" INSTEAD of One Shot "Case Lube" as a release agent on a Kimber 84M Montana. The JB Weld stuck to the metal very well despite the coating of Gun Cleaner. I eventually destroyed the stock trying to get it off. I had to buy a new stock and it took a while to get the epoxy off of the metal. The Case Lube works well but I now prefer car wax.

Tatelaw, call Ruger C/S and they will replace your action screw for free. If you have the slot type, they will send you a whole set of torx head to replace them all. (free also)

John

I agree with John on this one. I think I finally started to lose the fear of gluing an action to a stock after about the 10th. one I glass bedded. It was always an uneasy feeling in my gut and I always played everything back in my mind, hoping like hell I used enough release agent in all the right spots.... . A little piece of advice on the action screw holes: Fill them with release agent. That way, if you don't get enough on the screws themselves you know there will be plenty in there. Just in case

I've never locked a screw, but I did forget to "clay" a reverse angle, and broke a 700 Timney trigger once. Yes, that sucked! 😫

I'm impressed you had enough patience for 36 hours! I loosen screw and pop em at 5. Usually around 3 am

I know that feeling well! Wake up in the middle of the night and pop the action out of the stock. That's why I try to do my glass bedding by mid morning so that I can pop the action before bed to get a good nights sleep.

I have issues with the viscosity of marine Tex does not flow well, I can end up stressing bedding get action bedded deep enough. I use sister marks to get action right. Nothing worse than finding out after bedding is cured that action sits to high. Can you warm up Marine Tex to get it to flow easier?

This. I use Brownells release agent (bought a quart 20 years ago) and so far zero issues. I coat everything twice and load up with modeling clay where needed.

I always play it safe and use liberal amounts of grease on the action screws.

I've never glued one in yet but I will tell you I have a sinking feeling in my stomach every time no matter how much release agent I use.
I've used both the action screw and dedicated bedding screw/surgical tubing method and so far don't have a strong preference.

Can you warm up Marine Tex to get it to flow easier?

Can't speak for Marine Tex but I have done this with Devcon with success.

Is it ok to pop it out this soon if using Devcon? I'm kinda new at this and I read somewhere else on the 'net to let Devcon cure for 48hrs. I've been backing up my release time a few hrs each time I do a rifle, but 36hrs is as far back as I've gotten. If 5hrs is sufficient, I'll go that route.

I pop em at 5 when using Devcon but put em back together and let it cure for a total of 12 before tightening screws and shooting. Never had an issue myself. Lots of great vids on youtube for rifle bedding btw.

I made some headless bedding screws from some long screws I got from Lowe's and ground the heads off. I wrap them in several wraps of electrical tape to help keep them centered in the stock, then slather them with Kiwi neutral shoe polish. Haven't had one not come out easy yet. If the Kiwi doesn't keep them from sticking the electrical tape will, you can easily turn the screw out from the tape itself. I also use electrical tape instead of surgical tubing to hold the action in the stock while curing, several tight wraps of e-tape around the front and rear bridge hold it in place great and it's a lot easier than dealing with that surgical tubing, plus a roll is really cheap at the dollar store. I use Marine Tex grey, never had a problem getting it to flow, the consistency is just right for me.

Sorry to hear about your mishap. For future reference, if you get epoxy bonded to metal put the entire gun in an upright freezer overnight. The metal will shrink, the epoxy won't and the bond will break.

I once bought a gun somebody had bedded without using any release agent and managed to break it free this way.

I thought I was going to break a nice Remington Classic walnut stock not long ago, trying to pop it loose after it set up overnight with Devcon. Finally got the bugger to break free. Turned out that the recoil lug was way crooked from the factory and I hadn't noticed. Nice job Remington.....

All the release agent in the world won't save you if there's any sort of overhang that lets the epoxy form a mechanical lock. What a nice surprise that Remington provided one for you. Glad to hear you got it free.