on a few occasions I have heard people here at the fire mention waxing their rifle for moisture protection. I have a rifle that I plan to hunt with this year that is wood stocked and blued. On the metal parts, do you strip the oils off before waxing? Do you put the wax on and polish, or just apply and let it set? I have never done or talked to anyone that has done this, so any information is appreciated. miles

I use a wax made from carnauba and beeswax: Gilly Stephenson's Gun Wax - I'm not sure if it is available in the US, but no doubt you could get something like it. I simply wipe all the metalwork down with a clean flannelette, and then apply the wax sparingly to all external surfaces (save for glass of course), and then buff it off by hand with a wadded-up flannelette.

If you don't buff it off it is sticky, and will attract dust and hairs. What you're left with after buffing is a thin layer, which feels hard, and gleams, not sticky or waxy feeling.

I've been doing it for many years, and blued steel and walnut seem to have survived all sorts of conditions, rain, dust, sweat and all.

I wax all of my rifles & cane rods. Usually Butcher's Bowling Alley Wax.

This. I use more Butcher's Wax than any of the others, because I came up using it in my trade and it never let me down. Truth be told any paste wax (but not car wax- it has silicone in it that isn't good for a wooden stock) is ok, some slightly better than others. I don't de-oil my metal first. Wax on, wax off- don't let it sit un-buffed.

Happiness is getting caught out in a rain shower and watching the water bead up and run off.

No special treatment other than to goop/rub on furniture paste wax. Some black shoe polish on top of that. After the wax dries, it makes a flat matte surface that reduces reflection.

I use Johnson's furniture paste wax as well. Have not tried the Bowling Alley wax, but might give it a go. Don't usually carry wood in the weather, but have been caught on trips pressing wood into snow and rain.

Howard's feed n wax, at Home Depot/Lowes. $8. Beeswax, caranuba and some citrus oil. Works great. Thank me later!

Johnson's paste wax or Renaissance. Loaned a rifle to my son-in-law a couple of years ago. He hunted for three days straight in the rain. Due to lack of knowledge (he's an engineer - go figure) he didn't want to part it out and dry it. I got it back six weeks later and the only rust was in the socket on the Allen screws.

I put Essox, One shot or corrosion X on first let it sit over night till it feels dry and then wax over it. Especially if hunting around salt water I could see where the wax got rubbed off and rust was starting.

I carry those towelette packages of sheath or corrosion X out in the field if I expect it to be wet.

I use renaissance

I use Butchers on all my wooden stocks but don't buff it out too much. Keeps the snow and rain beading up and falling off pretty good. Most of my rifles also have been treated with spar varnish on the inletting, etc.

We use Johnson's paste wax, meant for floors.

Johnsons. On metal wood and plastic if applicable. Works well

I have a friend who does high end builds. He uses Renaissance. It doesn't finger print like others. On my utility Rems & whatever. I use Butchers. At one time, I was in the world of Orvis, Leonard, T&T, Powell & Garrison Fly rods. Everyone that I knew used Butchers Bowling Alley Wax. That has been good enough for me.

I have used Johnsons paste wax for years and it does a good job
Rub it into the stock heavily and let it dry,no need to buff it ,same thing for the Metal.
I have a can that I have used for the better part of 30 years.
I used it on Self Bows and arrows made from Hickory way back when.

The problem I have with the Renaissance and Johnson wax is that rotten penetrating smell when I use them.

What is the smell of the Butchers Bowling Alley Wax like?

To me Johnsons does not smell all that bad, compared to other stuff that use. I do have some on hand and will try it. Thanks to all that have posted. miles

I try to remember to wax whichever guns I'll be hunting with well ahead of time so the smell dissipates. Probably a waste of time as the deer can smell my coffee and cigar breath just as readily.

At home, I sit in an elevated blind with sides and a roof. I can drink coffee, I dip and spit out the window, and would pizz out the window if I had made the roof tall enough to stand erect, and never had a problem spooking deer. I even have a radio with headphones, to listen to a Razorback game if needed. I have killed several deer while doing this. miles

I do not bother about what game can or cannot smell as I am only looking to shoot the really dumb slow ones...what the smell does to my guts is another thing entirely.