looking at some rifles that come with a threaded barrel it looks like browning has what I'm looking for in their x bolt bolt gun. They have a 308 in 1:12 twist with 20" or 1:10 with 20" barrel. I will be shooting at the most 350 or 400 yds. I'm thinking either will work for that distance. Anything I need to consider before I purchase one over the other? I have a couple of 30-06 in winchesters but nothing I would want to have a barrel re threaded. (pre64's)

I have tinnitus very bad in both ears and have hunted the last two years with ear plugs that allow me to hear but shut off when I shoot. After this season and shooting a lot I can tell my hearing is getting a little worse and thinking a suppressor will help. I really thought I could have a couple of my tikka t3 lites threaded for a suppressor. One is in a 243 and the other a 22-250 After reading about suppressors I don't think the barrels have enough metal to have them threaded. It seems to me that buying a gun with a threaded barrel makes since but I don't really know a lot in this area. What are my options if I wanted a 270 with a threaded barrel? A lot of questions but I have to start some where. Thanks Ricky

The Tikka's will have enough meat there for a thread on suppressor, especially if you cut it down a few or more inches before threading. The quick mount attachments need more shoulder for indexing. But a direct thread suppressor will work fine.

Well you can get any barrel threaded for a supressor, it just may not be a direct thread. They make plenty of adaptors that allow you to use your sub direct thread at the muzzle barrels. So just get the appropriate suppressor for your rifles and get a gunsmith to thread your current rifles for the adaptors.

Best purchase I ever made. I have a .308 and 300 RUM threaded and hunt with max loads. Save up for more bullets because you will go through them in a hurry. My 10 year old can easily handle the 300 RUM supressed from the bench. My ears are grateful!

I have not found Tikkas to have enough meat for a shoulder when threading to 5/8-24 for most common 30 cal suppressors.

I have done about 5-6 T3s now and have pressed a shoulder behind the threads on all. I have done one .223 threaded at 1/2-28 and it had plenty of meat for a sufficient shoulder.

I'd buy a Tikka CTR or a Remington SPS Tactical.




Travis

There you go. There's a solution to everything.

RickyB,

The 22-250 Tikka when cut back should have enough meat to thread it… as 22 centerfire suppressors are threaded 1/2x28. The 30 caliber suppressors are (mostly) threaded 5/8x24. You want some shoulder for the suppressor to butt up against... even for a direct thread suppressor.

The tikka CTR & the Remington will certainly work… depends on where you hunt as the CTR for example weighs 7 1/2 pounds bare. Add 3/4 pound plus for a scope and 3/4 pound to 1 1/2 pounds for a suppressor and it gets rather heavy… might work for your hunting though.

I went with a Ruger American Rifle (approx. 6 5/8 pounds) & a SAS Reaper (7 inches long) which is titanium and weighs ~13 ounces.

Spendy but consider titanium suppressors for the weight savings, also consider a shorter suppressor… you will give up some suppression for less length.

Gotta go,

jerry

Thanks guys for your comments. I have sent Tennessee a pm so hopefully he can help me decide which route I can take. Ricky

Ricky, The suppressor I purchased came standard with a 5/8"-24 thread, but since most of my rifle barrels didn't have enough meat to cut a thread that big, I had Silencerco change the direct thread portion to a 1/2"-28. Which they did at no charge.

I just had a 223 in Ruger American Rifle threaded for 1/2-28 and even though the barrel is pretty thin there was enough material to get the required .600" needed to give a bit of a shoulder for the direct thread suppressor to mate up against.

Just me, but in a 30 cal I'd do 1;10 twist and sling heavies. 220 RN work superb.

Tennessee got back with me and he doesn't do any work for the public which I 100% understand. If I'm reading these threads right it sounds like if i want to go with a 5-24 thread one would have to press on a shoulder behind the threads, but their is enough metal to cut a 1-28 thread on them. Now my very limited knowledge of this come's into play. A 1-28 thread will be ok for the 22-250 but not for the 243 unless a manufacturer retreaded a 5-24 to a 1-28. Does this sound correct? Also does anybody know if a smith that will press a shoulder on like Tennessee does? Thanks Ricky

when I start getting my barrels threaded after the 1st, I will go with the biggest threads I can get away with. I won't thread anything 1/2x28, even a 224 cals b/c my cans are both 5/8x24.

Thunderbeast Arms (and my gunsmith) recommend a minimum of about .050" shoulder left after threading, so that's about .725" muzzle needed for 5/8x24. Of course that will exclude most sporter weight rifles. In the thread below, they mention LRI (long Rifles Inc.) about halfway down. It sounds like LRI is using a jam nut setup with lighter barrels and 5/8 threads, so that is who I will call if I decide to do any of my sporters, JMHO...

http://www.predatormastersforums.co...=showflat&Number=2883251#Post2883251

Thanks Walter I appreciate the thread and that helps with the Tikkas.

With the Tikka CTR I'm not a big fan of the mag extending out. I have always loaded my lite's with one in the barrel and three in the mag which has been enough for me. Will their polymer mag work in a CTR to make it flush with stock?

308 in a 1:10 or 1:12 twist? I would shoot anything from 150 to 180 out to 400 yds on deer. Can't see going over 180 so which twist or does it matter?

Thanks Ricky

Do you have a dial caliper to measure the diameter of the Tikka where you'd want it cut? 20"? 18"? or leave at 22"? Measure it and let us know what it is.

Most of the 223 suppressors aren't rated for 22-250, so I'd go 5/8x24 threads and use a light 308 suppressor.

There is a thread in the classifieds here - a smith in Dallas, I think, doing threading work and discounting if you have more than one. Check that out and contact him to see what he recommends.

Barrel threading thread - CLICK HERE

257heaven be tonight before I can get that info but will post it. Ricky

1/2x28 threads work fine with larger calibers, as long as there's enough meat between the bore and threads.....most smiths want to move up in size for anything larger than 7mm to 30 caliber.

This stuff isn't complicated.....take your rifle in to a reputable smith, have him cut your current barrel to whatever length you choose, thread it 1/2x28 (as long as you have ~.6" of barrel diameter at your chosen muzzle length), and use a thread adapter to fit your suppressor. Bring the thread adapter with you so the smith can fit the threads, that will ensure close mating and limit the chance of a baffle strike.

I recommend going 16-18" on barrel length, because with a 7" suppressor the overall rifle length will be close to original factory length. That means the rifle will retain a handy overall length, and the balance won't be so badly affected....especially compared to starting with a 20" heavy barrel to begin with...those babies are incredibly front heavy when a suppressor is added, unless you use a 30 ounce scope and magnum fill stock to balance it out, then suddenly your rifle weighs 10+ lbs and isn't any fun to carry around.

A 16-18" 270 will still have plenty of speed to expand decently slick bullets to ranges further than any of us has any business shooting at unwounded big game, and the rifle will remain handy enough to hunt the brush. Win/Win.

No sir, the CTR has a totally different DBM and bottom metal than the Lites, if you don't like the Mag hanging down you probably won't care for the CTR.

20" Tikka CTR with SAS Arbiter suppressor attached. Suppressor is 9" x 1.5" x 14oz.

I had it up hunting elk as pictured, and it was a little cumbersome..... but not unruly. At 16" it would be like a 25" barrel..... which I could deal with.



I've got a RAR Predator in .260 sitting here waiting to get shot. The plan is to work a couple loads up in the 22" barrel, then chop it to 16" to see what's actually lost.

Looking forward to the results Dog'

I just chopped a RAR barrel down to 18"and with 6" of suppressor added it makes a pretty decent handling package.

What he said. I have a 6.5 and 308 threaded 1/2x28 and use an adaptor to step up to 5/8x24. It works great. Be advised that a suppressor will certainly help with the noise level but may not necessarily be hearing safe with supersonic ammo.

At the end of the barrel is .636
At the 18" .665
At the 16" .680

I have learned a lot on this thread and I'm going to look at LRI and thread adapters also look at quick connectors. I have two Tikkas and a ar 15 so going try and expand on the knowledge I have obtained to suppress these. Thanks a lot guys. Ricky

Here's .655" diameter Brux #3 threaded 5/8x24 by LRI.

Check w/ Darrik at Whittaker Guns. They had some blued T3 Lites w threaded barrels available awhile back, albeit to metric threads. But adapters to U.S. Threads available.

So far, only the CTRs are 5/8-24.

Although not the prettiest rifle in the world, nor the lightest, the Savage Hog Hunter comes threaded and it shoots...



SilencerCo Harvester...








Just got a shorter lighter SilencerCo OMEGA...that one adapts to anything and has both .22 and .30 endcaps...

Bob

Something like this is asking for an endcap strike if you try to seat a suppressor against that tiny shoulder. Using a suppressor mounting muzzle device that squares against the muzzle is a good solution though.

The better solution for thin 30 cal hunting barrels is 9/16"-24 or 9/16"-28 threads. This usually leaves enough shoulder on the barrel, without leaving the muzzle too thin.

I would guess the "shoulder ring" is an interference fit?
If so, does it have a constriction in the bore beneath it?

Pretty sure both of these would have been deer dick in the dirt.....

CTR is .785" where the barrel meets the threads...

[video:youtube]e6-VyPZ1oe0[/video]

I have not done a gage ball drop test but I highly doubt there is a constriction. The rifle still shoots 3 shot touching groups regularly. There was a very small shoulder after turning the area to be threaded to .625". If I recall about .020-.030 per side, so the ring has at least something to stop against. You don't need a major press fit. The ring is slip-light press fit with LocTite cylindrical bonding compound applied.

So the ideal process is to turn the muzzle OD to .625 for the proper length (desired thread length + length of shoulder ring), install shoulder, thread from muzzle to shoulder.

Thanks for the explanation, Tennessee.

.020-.030" shoulder is definitely enough to seat the ring on. So you're using 609 Locktite?

I like it. It gives more choices in thread sizes for guns with slimmer barrels.