I have a take-off Synthetic stock from a T3 that I may put on a T3 hunter ( that I am thinking of purchasing). Before I put my T3 243 in a McMillan Hunters Edge, I had cleaned it thoroughly with brake cleaner, Krylon spider webbed the stock (no base coat) and matte clear Duracoated it. After about a year, under good environmental conditions, the Duracoat and web paint was flaking off all over it. At that time I ordered the McEdge and I am very happy with it. The reason I won't do the McEdge thing again is because of the price increase plus 20 percent import (I live in Romania), plus international shipping. Way too much money. On the butt of the take off stock, after stripping all remnants of the failed paint job, I removed just enough of the butt to square it up and mounted a 1/2" recoil pad to shorten up the LOP just a bit. The stock weighs 28.06 ounces. I used a soldering iron to stipple the grip areas so it now has excellent grip. I would like to sponge camo paint it.
Now, my question for those of you that have painted your T3 stocks is: How is the painted finish holding up. If well, what did you clean the stock with before painting, what brand and type of paint did you use and did you use a clear coat over the paint? Thanks, RJ

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Beaker cleaner wouldn’t be my first choice for cleaning. The only thing I’ve used is denatured alcohol to degrease and Krylon Fusion, followed by matte clear. Been awhile and it’s long gone so don’t know about longevity.

Stippling looks nice, I’ve done the same. T3 “grip” without it is pretty non existant.

Thanks 16Bore, I did a couple of Browning X-Bolts with Krylon Fusion and matte clear about a year ago and they are holding up well so far. I was wondering if a difference in the Tikka stock material just would not allow the paint to stick well. I suppose I really have nothing to lose trying the Krylon Fusion, since I already have the paint. RJ

The solvents in brake cleaner just seem to be a bit “hot” for plastics in my opinion.

Romania?

Isn’t that where vampires come from?



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Very hot water and dish soap is what the body shop uses to degrease plastic bumpers before painting

I sanded mine with 220, wiped it down with acetone,
Self etching primer and then krylon camouflage paint.
I need to get on my desk top as phone app I can’t get the right link. But here is a 223 in desert tan.
https://imgur.com/a/WWKmp

FYI

There are two types of brake cleaner. Chlorinated and non-chlorinated. In my experience, non-chlorinated is safe for most firearm parts but use caution.

Chlorinated brake cleaner can definitely melt some plastic.

That said, brake cleaner can still leave a residue.

Acetone is my preferred cleaner.

You need to click on your pic in your album one more time before getting the link. Once further will give you the link ending in .jpg

I would like to paint my Tikka T3x stock, maybe even one of my CTR's. Of the tupperware stocks I've painted, I do like Dre mentions. Sand with 220-240 grit, wipe down with alcohol or acetone, let dry then use a plastics primer, paint, then after its dried I use a clear over top. I use rustoleum paint though. It holds up very well to abuse. I've painted many model 70 tupperware stocks that way and it never chips or flakes off...

Gentlemen, thank you all for your info and suggestions. I am beginning to think the brake cleaner might be leaving a slight residue. I will probably use the soap and hot water followed by acetone to de grease before painting, RJ

I'm no expert; but, for the ones I have done, sanding the entire thing first and then cleaning with denatured alcohol seems to have worked well for me. I've never used primer; but, I have always used a solid color as a complete base coat. I then paint to whatever pattern satisfies me. I then finish off with 3 to 5 layers of clear coat of some sort. Good luck with your project.

Alcohol - paint - clear coat.... It’s a helluva stout finish for sure. I’ve never had a flake, chip or peel. Lots of miles bouncing around on the dashboard, back seat and drug all over.

Light sanding, acetone wipe down, sponges.

Thanks for the tip.
I forgot to add matte or satin clear coat

JG, your Tikka pictured above inspired me to do sponge jobs on my 2 X-Bolts. That's an awesome paint job you did there. Thats the way I'm going to roll on the Tikka stock, sanding, acetone then paint. Thanks. RJ

Do they get slippery?

Pharmseller, both of my X-Bolts got the sticky stock disease. It was a pain in the ass stripping all of the degenerating rubber coating off, but the molded in gripping still left a pretty good gripping surface. The clear coat seams to make it just slightly less "grippy". Without the clear coat, I believe the Krylon Fusion paint will hold up for 2 or three hard seasons. So I may skip the clear coat next go-around. That's acceptable to me. Then I'll just strip it and sponge it again. Many years ago, I used Duracoat to paint my stocks. The 2 reasons I don't use it now is 1) it's a real pain to remove and 2) it's expensive. Duracoat scratches too, just not as easily as lacquer/enamel, RJ

I’ve always used an adhesion promoter, it can only increase durability.

Brake cleaner does leave a residue. Don't use it on mountain bike brake discs, for example, as they don't get hot enough to burn off the residue. Car brakes will burn it off no problem.

Hitting the poly with a fairly aggressive solvent like acetone and then letting it evaporate just before the first coat of whatever you're going to hit it with helps soften the surface and let the chemicals of the paint bond with it a little more effectively.

Nice superlite. Looks great. I'm with you on using the adhesion promoter. The stuff I use is actually clear primer for plastics. It helps the basecoat stick to the stock better. I also use a clear over the paint. I know I posted a long time ago on this thread with detail on how I paint my stocks. I see others are posting pics of rifles they have done. Some Tikka's and some not Tikka's. Here's one of my favorites, but its not a Tikka:



I spent hours trying to get the paint right on that Brown PoundR. Its tough though. Elk hunting is not the gentlest sport, but so far the paint has not worn any. I remember having to paint the bottom metal of my old Ruger m77 338WM after every elk hunt. Pushing through all the brush around here is hard on a paint job... That brown paint is holding up very well though, but you need to use a couple/few coats of clear.

I lightly sanded mine, wiped it down with acetone (not drenched on the paper towel but damp) several times.
If I could figure out how to post pictures one here I would show a finished result. I did the paint on a paper plate, and sponge job on it.

I rattle canned a T3 stock years ago., Krylon paint. Did the base coat, put some leaves on it, painted more, different leaves and painted more.....functional camo. Then a clear coat.

Have had a couple flakes here and there, but just a blast of paint continues the camo pattern. Then again, it is a varmint hunting rifle that gets beat up a little, so I am less worried about a show room finish.

You guys have done some good painting. Not sure I have the patience for that.

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/gallery/80/full/79496.jpg This one was done with Rustoleum camo paint and Matte clear

No plastic should ever be wiped with any petroleum product. Static can cause flash fire. It also remsins trapped in plastic. The top coats seal it in, it try's to escape & peels. Wipe with alcohol, sand, wipe once more. Spray an adhesion promoter then top coat. I'm an automotive body repairer/refinisher

Tag

Prep-All, Bull Dog, Duracoat. . .

I had mine cerakoted.

It's spray paint. If it rubs off or scratches, just spray it again. Pretty simple stuff.