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I do, I finally got a fix for them.

My problem was sliding the gun into a scabbard, it pushed the rear sight down and the elevation screw would work loose, changing the elevation of the POI. Also my gun's balance right at that sight point and even carrying one there with your hand wrapped around the stock, sight ,etc., did the same thing.

I coated the barrel just in back of the sight with mold release. Using Brownells' Acruglass gel/black dye, I built up a blob that was higher than the space between the barrel and sight and wider than the rear sight just aft of the sight. I had sighted the gun into be about 3" low at 100 yards before doing all this.

Then carefully, using a dremel for the rough stuff and a file for final fitting, I shaped a block that would just barely slide in under the sight. The sight sets at little bit I of an angle and the block needs to be tapered on top just a might. Since the block was cast on the barrel it fits the barrel exactly. The sides of the block, I shaped to be even with each side of the sight. When finished, the block needs to be able to side in under the sight with a little bit of pressure( not loose)

After installing the wedge (block) between the barrel and the rear sight I re-checked the zero yesterday and it was still low, so while at the range, I cut a piece of .015 brass shim stock, raised the sight 2 clicks, and slid the shim in between the wedge and the bottom of the sight.

If you cut the wedge right, and it is tight, you need to take the wedge out in order to turn the elevation screw. Then re-insert the wedge.

It was still shooting low so I added another .015 shim and re-checked it.
Two shots within 2" of each, dead center.

I cleaned the gun at home and then using a hypodermic syringe, I placed a small dab of Acrulass at the rear of the sight, that touched the barrel and very bottom back surface of the rear sight that will hold the wedge in. Then I placed a small dot about 1/8 inch on each side of the sight and wedge down to the barrel.
I let everything cure and the wedge/shims are in there rock solid.

I did not dye the little dabs as if I ever want to remove them I can tell the white from the blued steel solid.

When I talk about the rear sight, I am referencing part that moves up and down, not the sight base itself
I God had meant for men to use mules to hunt with, He'd have made them with scabbards that wouldn't mess up your sights.
OR, have someone design an after market sight without that spring loaded one that could easy replace that one.

I tried replacing it with Williams Peep sight, but I'm screwing up somehow using that, so I went back and remounted the FO sight, which I don't like either
This is kind of on the same subject.
Has anyone ever replaced the spring in a spring loaded T/C rear sight?
I acquired a T/C muzzle loader that had no spring when I got it.
I called T/C and they sent me one which they said was their "last one".
When it arrived I realized it is the wrong one.
Thoughts anyone as to where I might find a replacement?
I might have one as extra. I'll check.

If not I will check the dimensions on one I am not using. Any Ace Hardware store would have one.

Smoke.One day you and me need to ML hunt together so you can carry my elk back to the mules so I don't have to cut it up in so many pieces. grin


I don't have a spare, but the one I have is:
.437" long (7/16")
.200" OD
.137" ID Approx.
Wire size is .022" Dia

I would guess that anything that would fit in the countebore where the spring goes would work, even it is a bit stouter. I would not go lighter.
You might have to settle for a 1/2" long oneand cut it down
There's a guy on Ebay that takes Williams Guide open sights and combines them with the WGRS apertures to make a barrel-mounted peep with fiber-optic inserts. He includes a FO front sight of the proper height. You could do the same yourself, but he's got it all figured out and the price is about the same, about 65 bucks or so. He sells them for TC round and octagonal barrels. If you don't want the peep, you can just buy the sight sets from Williams. The FO feature isn't "traditional", but neither is a spring loaded adjustable.
Seems like alot of work to keep your screw tight. If it's the same sight as on my New Englander, a drop of blue Loctite has kept it from moving on it's own but still allowed adjustment when needed.
Tried the loctite, but it still worked loose
Sight it as needed then a big shot of shoo-goo!
Go to a fixed sight in a 3/8 dovetail. Get one .030 too tall.
Zero with a file.

P.A.
Originally Posted by PAMyers
Go to a fixed sight in a 3/8 dovetail. Get one .030 too tall.
Zero with a file.

P.A.


That would require a gunsmith or a mill and buying a sight. I was conveying something that anyone could do for next to nothing in cots. Thanks though.
Originally Posted by saddlesore
Originally Posted by PAMyers
Go to a fixed sight in a 3/8 dovetail. Get one .030 too tall.
Zero with a file.

P.A.


That would require a gunsmith or a mill and buying a sight. I was conveying something that anyone could do for next to nothing in cots. Thanks though.


No, it wouldn't require any of that. The 3/8 dovetail is already there under your existing sight. A fixed sight from Track of the Wolf or Dixie Gun works isn't expensive. If any fitting is needed at all, simply file the base of the sight to fit your dovetail. (never file the dovetail) I find a triangular file works for that job. It isn't complicated or expensive and solves the problem of that spring loaded sight shifting every time it gets touched.
Originally Posted by prairie dog shooter
Originally Posted by saddlesore
Originally Posted by PAMyers
Go to a fixed sight in a 3/8 dovetail. Get one .030 too tall.
Zero with a file.

P.A.


That would require a gunsmith or a mill and buying a sight. I was conveying something that anyone could do for next to nothing in cots. Thanks though.


No, it wouldn't require any of that. The 3/8 dovetail is already there under your existing sight. A fixed sight from Track of the Wolf or Dixie Gun works isn't expensive. If any fitting is needed at all, simply file the base of the sight to fit your dovetail. (never file the dovetail) I find a triangular file works for that job. It isn't complicated or expensive and solves the problem of that spring loaded sight shifting every time it gets touched.


No, the dovetail is not there. I have had these sights on and off 3-4 times and they are screwed on like a scope base with two screws, and I just rechecked my Hawkin that has the sight removed.
Maybe then newer ones, but I doubt it as I have never seen a dovetail when these sights are factory.
This is on an older TC Hawkin bought in the late 70's and a TC Black Diamond.

Again, this is a no cost solution and your "inexpensive" might not be so to others and I'd bet with out looking that they are $35 +

Sheesh,why do guys have to jump in with something else especially when the info is bogus. grin
Just changed the factory sights out for Williams fiber optics on my TC New Englander (round barrel). Went with the standard open rear(green fiber optic rod in a horse shoe shape and red front). On this one there is no dovetail under the rear sight, just the two tapped holes. Wish I had done this years ago, I can actually see to shoot it now.
Originally Posted by Ole_270
Just changed the factory sights out for Williams fiber optics on my TC New Englander (round barrel). Went with the standard open rear(green fiber optic rod in a horse shoe shape and red front). On this one there is no dovetail under the rear sight, just the two tapped holes. Wish I had done this years ago, I can actually see to shoot it now.


Know what you mean. I had switched to a Williams peep and put a front blade on this Black Diamond, but my eyes went further south so I went back to the factory FO that was on it originally.
I really don't like them as they are to big, but I can see them with prescription glasses.
Quote
Again, this is a no cost solution and your "inexpensive" might not be so to others and I'd bet with out looking that they are $35 +

Sheesh,why do guys have to jump in with something else especially when the info is bogus. grin


Wish I could find someone around here with cash who was willing to "bet without looking"

A rear sight from Track of the Wolf cost $7.00 to $ 8.00.

If your rifle didn't have the dovetail already cut (mine did) it does not require a milling machine or a gunsmith to cut one. I do it all the time, by hand, with a file.

This is a link to a Midway video by Larry Potterfield showing how to hand cut a dovetail in a rifle barrel.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W60yBwzipKA

Maybe $8.00 and use of a file is expensive to you.

Accura Glass will cost you $24.00.

Maybe my math is different from yours?


Yeah, it's annoying when guys jump in with bogus info.


I hate that...


Almost as much as guys who post "wisdom" on how to solve a problem through "creative tinkering" instead of fixing it right the first time. Jeesh....



TC made a primitive rear sight that mounted with the two factory screw holes. One was up for sale on Ebay just last week. Some of the muzzleloading specialty shops also have sights that will mount with the factory screws.
Originally Posted by prairie dog shooter
Quote
Again, this is a no cost solution and your "inexpensive" might not be so to others and I'd bet with out looking that they are $35 +
Sheesh,why do guys have to jump in with something else especially when the info is bogus. grin

Wish I could find someone around here with cash who was willing to "bet without looking"
A rear sight from Track of the Wolf cost $7.00 to $ 8.00.
If your rifle didn't have the dovetail already cut (mine did) it does not require a milling machine or a gunsmith to cut one. I do it all the time, by hand, with a file.
This is a link to a Midway video by Larry Potterfield showing how to hand cut a dovetail in a rifle barrel.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W60yBwzipKA

Maybe $8.00 and use of a file is expensive to you.
Accura Glass will cost you $24.00.

Maybe my math is different from yours?
Yeah, it's annoying when guys jump in with bogus info.
I hate that...


Almost as much as guys who post "wisdom" on how to solve a problem through "creative tinkering" instead of fixing it right the first time. Jeesh....


Your information was bogus because you said to order a sight that would go into a dovetail when you didn't know your butt from a hole in the ground that my rifles did not have a dovetail. It would have been different if you had the manners to at least ask if my rifles had the dovetail.

You fix yours the way you want and I'll fix mine. I didn't ask for any other methods, nor did I ask you to research prices for me. I only posted what worked for me.

You get you panties in a wad because my fix didn't accomodate your way of thinking. So therefore, my fix is bogus. No that is what is annoying. My thread required no comment from you or any one. Just something that works for me.

Just like last fall when guys like you said I had to go to Track Of the Wolf to buy a new barrel for my Hawkin. Thompson Center replaced it for nothing. My only cost was the shipping it there. After I posted that, everyone shut up. Wonder why?

BTW, I have the Acruglass Jel on hand and I maybe used 1/4 of a teaspoon on it. Total cost to me $0.00 and I didn't have to Rube Goldberg a hand filed dovetail. Or at a later date, if I wanted to go back to the original, I'd have a dovetail cut in that I didn't need.
Originally Posted by LeonHitchcox
TC made a primitive rear sight that mounted with the two factory screw holes. One was up for sale on Ebay just last week. Some of the muzzleloading specialty shops also have sights that will mount with the factory screws.


I might look into that. No Time now. I leave for ML in a week and a half.
I had switched to a Williams peep sight, and replaced the front FO sight with a blade, but I still could not get my eyes to work wit that.
Originally Posted by saddlesore

I might look into that. No Time now. I leave for ML in a week and a half.
I had switched to a Williams peep sight, and replaced the front FO sight with a blade, but I still could not get my eyes to work wit that.


Out of curiosity, what size aperture were you using in the peep? Most folks with older eyes (me included) are able to use peeps easier provided they use a large enough aperture. You only have to focus on front sight and target rather than rear sight, front sight and target.
tmitch. I tried the biggest I have which was about .090. Then I took the aperture completely out and used the threaded hole. My problem was that all I saw was a blur.

If I put a smaller aperture in at the range and really fuss around a a lot, I can usually hit the black at 100 yards( 6"). But when hunting this doesn't work for me

I went back to the FO sights which I don't like, but I can line up the FO green and red tubes at least. Which is why I did not persue traditional iron sights as suggested. My Dr. won't sign the form that would let me use a scope in Colorado.
saddlesore, I don't know your past experience with peep sights, so don't take it the wrong way, I'm not pickin on ya. It might be you're tying too hard. When you say all you see is a blur, that's what you're supposed to see. You don't want to focus on the aperture at all, you just want to look through it. Your eye will naturally seek the brightest spot, which happens to be the center of the aperture. Forget about the rear sight, look through the hole and put your front bead on the elk....... an kill it! Ross Seyfried did an article a couple years ago on them.
http://www.gunsamerica.com/blog/the-envelope-please-my-best-rifle-sight-award-goes-to/
This is not what I referenced in the above post, but it looks interesting.

http://www.cainsoutdoor.com/shop/item.asp?item=19215
Tmitch.No offense taken. I used peep sights for NRA matches and my M1 for many years in the past. I have had one on my Hawkin for many years also. In the past several years, my eyes have really been worse. What I mean by fuzzy is that ignoring the peep and concentrating on the front sight/target, the front sight is blurred. The front sight is at a distance that is too little for a lens prescription to see well at a distance, and too long for a prescription to see at close range. Prescription glasses can get the target clear or the front sight clear, but not both. Right now, it's compromise on both.

My eye doctor is a shooter also, and he has helped me about as much as he can.I need to find a Dr, that will sign the form I need for CO CPW to permit me to use a 1X scope at least. The alternative is to give up ML hunting, at least in Colorado.

If I use the FO sight, I can align the color reasonably, and fairly make out an equal distance on each side, but not great, but then get more focus on the target. Using traditional iron sights, is out of the question.

The solution, in reference to my original post, although not optimal, would be to find a FO sight that goes into dovetail and then get screw on dovetail as Leon posted in his last post. This would make a more stable base at least

My original post described method for me to at least get me thru this years ML season. Then I have another year to try to fix the problem.

I am ok in handgun shooting if I keep the distance at 25 feet or less. Then I can use my prescription lenses to keep everything. reasonably in focus.

Thanks for your suggestions.
Hold on while I get the taste of my foot out of my mouth......

I see your dilemma now Saddlesore, didn't realize it was a blurry front sight. Boy, your Dr. isn't doing you any favors either, hope you find one a bit more understanding. Not to beat a dead horse, have you tried the FO front/aperture rear combo? I know it's getting late for this season
Originally Posted by tmitch
Hold on while I get the taste of my foot out of my mouth......

Not to beat a dead horse, have you tried the FO front/aperture rear combo? I know it's getting late for this season


Yes,I put a Williams peep on the back and bought higher front FO sight.
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