Hello,

I am heading to the Alaska Range this August and have begun gathering the necessary gear for the trip. Yes, this is in addition to getting into great shape. Should we be successful on the sheep, we will also go after grizzly.

First things first, I am taking a .300 Jarrett with 165 grain AccuBonds. I have a good pair of 10x Zeiss binoculars for the trip. The scope is a Schmidt-Bender 4-16x. My guide will have a spotting scope. I am planning not to take one, as they are pricey and heavy.

I purchased the Lowa Bighorn G3 GTX boot from shoebuy.com. They had a great sale at 25% off and have a free shipping and return shipping policy. I highly recommend them (already sent a pair back with a pre-paid return label). I ordered the Koflach Degree plastics but like the Lowas better. I will use the Lowas for mule deer and elk in the years to come (and for Bighorn, if I ever get drawn).

My outerwear is my whitetail gear. It's a Browning Pro Series pant and jacket with GoreTex.

I ordered some Black Diamond trekking poles off Ebay. They look good and were well-priced.

My sleeping bag is a Slumberjack 0 degree F Odyssey with G3fiber insulation. I am currently looking at sleeping pads.

I will borrow a backpack from my guide. He has 2 extras.

I am planning to take a pair of ski gloves and leather work gloves.

I do have a TFO 5 wt fly rod and 5 wt Ross Reel also going. I am a bit of a trout bum and want to fish, if possible. Any tips on flies?

So with that said, what other gear do you find essential on the trip? What are the MUST HAVES that should not be left at home? Feel free to criticize any of my current selections.

Thanks and have a great Memorial Day,

kscowboy01

Borrowing a backpack could be ( note I say could be) the single biggest mistake you could make.

I personally would not roll those dice.

Yeah, and I'd sell the S&B to pay for it (the pack) whilst picking up a VX3 3.5-10 Lupy to save some weight...

Be prepared to handle an indecent amount of blood sucking bugs.
You may get above them but not for the whole hunt.
They are small, mean and have very nasty effect when they bite.
I would have a headnet and plenty of DEET on hand.
jmho
Tim
OH, yeah. Congratulations.

When?....whooops, Aug 10th.

Where in Alaska Range.

Sheep country typically doesn't hold a lot of fish...maybe a few grayling.....any black gnat type fly.

I have the exact Leupold you mentioned above on my .308 with Talley Quick Releases. Would you all recommend taking that scope over the Schmidt-Bender? The Schmidt has the click knobs that are pretty cool. Not to mention that we will take a 300-400 yard shot, if necessary.

Probably the only fish will be in the bottom of the valley in the river you will have to wade across. Never have seen to many fish up on the mountain where the sheep are. Besides you will spend most of the time climbing and glassing for sheep. I would just talk to the guide and borrow his fishing gear if he has any. Sheep hunting is very physically demanding and not much time for any thing else. How many days will you spending sheep hunting?

Sheep are big enough targets the idea of needing even the 10x is laughable. But the [bleep] at over 26 ounces is by far funnier. The 3.5-10 is literally less than half the weight.

I would not bring the fishing gear either... It is easy to do that somewhere else and it will only get in your way the whole time with a high probability of never being used. Leave yourself an extra day at either end to go fishing if you want.

The sleeping bag is far warmer than you will need, also.

The pack needs to be carried and adjusted by you during your training, with weight in it. It will be hard to do that from afar. Get a Barney's pack and you will be much happier.

Get a standard pair of leather work gloves, uninsultaed, and soak them with melted beeswax. Wear them a lot until they break-in... You will be calling me names right up to the point they break-in. Once broken in they will last forever and protect your hands from devil's club thorns and such... They work extremely well. I would leave the other gloves at home.

The Black Diamond poles are decent, but should be fine unless you are a big guy.

I have yet to see Browning pants that I like. They have all been sponges.

Your socks will be critical and one of the few areas where bringing more than plenty is a very good idea. "Darn Tough" are hard to beat. Use a very thin poly liner sock inside the heavy socks. Bring mole skin and use it the instant you feel anything like a hotspot forming.

Sunglasses could save you if you get into early snow and have to deal with lots of glare.

A stocking cap is a really good idea...

If the guide has Barneys frame packs as lenders, it might not be a bad deal. Barney packs are simple to adjust to your torso length and do not present the lumbar pressure issues that an internal frame can. A Barneys can be fitted to you in 15 minutes or less.

If his packs are internal frames, even high end Kifaru, you will need to spend a good deal of time getting the pack fitted to you. Doing that while hiking with your load is not a good plan. It has taken me three months of tinkering to get a used Kifaru Longhunter fitted to where it works on my goofy back.

The one thing you will need to do is work out with a pack on. The added weight causes your body to use muscles differently than excerise does. Your leg, hip, back, stomach, and shoulders will all need to get used to the increase in load. You do not want to hit day two or three of your hunt and not be able to move due to muscle sorness or strain. So get a pack with 30 to 40 pounds in it and put in some miles on the bleachers.

get a "puffy" coat insulated with primaloft one or sport fiber. You will be spending a good deal of time sitting and glassing in cool conditions that may also be windy. Wildthings Gear is making custom puffy jackets now. Pretty nice process. Or you can hit any of the mountaineering gear sites and get a Micro Puff or Compressor for not much coin. May even look into puffy pants for sitting around.

Merino wool base layer and drawers. Merino socks as well.

Layering in fleece works for the large temperature swings during the day.

Gloves - you will need something that can handle water. Most ski gloves leak since they are for frozen water and not rain. I have been using the Chilly Grippers in camo for a couple of years now. Not water proof, but they stay warm when wet and have a great rubber palm and finger protection.

Light weight synthetic hiking pants that breath well. I have been training in a pair of convertable hiking pants from cabelas and they work well so far.

A book to read or one of those e-books like a kindle with a solar charger. AK Range can mean a day or two stuck in a tent in rain or fog.

A small LED head lamp like the Vizz or a zebra. Needs to work in the rain.

Probably not a lot of rainbow fishing while sheep hunting, but afterwards there are spots to head to. In August egg patterns and flesh flys work best, but never underestimate a bead head prince nymph. There will be silvers around then as well so you might want to plan on an after hunt fishing trip to somewhere like Seward or Valdez or Kenai.

Art, the 300 Jarrett needs a long action and for me at least, would require a scope intended for long actions with plenty of mounting latitude.

They seem to be getting in "shorter" supply. The 6x36 will work on a LA but the 6x42 doesn't come back enough for me.

I fly into Anchorage on the 6th and fly-out to camp on the 7th. I depart from camp on the 17th, due to a work conference. I will be on the 1:30 AM flight on the 18th back home.

4=16x scope? Way too big & bulky for me but you gotta haul it so... Ditto on "borrowing" a packboard. When I assistant guided we "loaned" packboards out to the clients. They sure didn't like the Trapper Nelson's they had to use. Double check with your guide & seriously consider getting one of your own.
Your boots.. Make damn sure they're broken in beforehand and absolutely DO NOT forget to take moleskin with you & keep it in your pack. It's a very expensive lesson/trip to have to call off your sheep hunt because you got blisters & can't walk. Don't ask how I know.
Bear in Fairbanks

I have the 6x42 on a number of long actions without issue... The idea of bringing a rifle that likely weighs as much as the Jarrett on a sheep hunt is foolish, though I have done it before and the potential grizzly hunt makes it understandable...

Why not leave the Leopold on your .308 and use it, it will do everything you need to do. --- Mel

Art, you simply is not built as manly as I...:)

Have only some blacks under my belt, so I ask ya, would not a light weight 06 accomplish the same thing, i.e. same bullet?

I have used ultralight 30-06s a lot for tons of different stuff and would never hesitate to do it again... And the 308 as Mel suggested would work just fine.

Actually I was there when Mel shot his Kodiak bear with a Partition, so marginal stuff can work just fine!

kscowboy01,

Some years ago, I did my Dall sheep hunt, in the Alaska range. It was a tough hunt, to be sure, but a very rewarding one.

As for fishing- I took along a fly rod and reel, and after I was done sheep hunting, my outfitter dropped me off at a small lake, that he called 'No Fish Lake'. On a flyover, we could see massive schools of grayling.

I stopped counting, after catching and releasing my 100th grayling. A simple, egg pattern fly did the trick (take along a bunch, as they will get chewed up).

I did load-up some test rounds for the .308. It's my favorite gun and built on an Ultra Light Arms action with a Jarrett barrel. While shooting the test loads, the bolt popped-off. The gun is being sent to get the bolt re-soldered. Should we go for grizzly, I have my 180 Barnes X that have been a solid performer over the last 10 years. My fear with the .308 is that it's not flat enough shooting. We will continue the test loads once the gun is fixed. I have not totally ruled the gun out. It's very, very light.

Stick to not shooting past 450 yards and build a range card for it. Or get a CDS and then varify the markings at the range. Even at 450 a .308 will kill a sheep.

Too tight. You need to plan for weather delays. Even with the commercial flights there could be weather delays.

Make sure you have a good headlamp. Many times you set up the stalk before it gets light or are packing sheep after civil twilight.

Talk to your taxidermist. You might have an assistant guide who can do the job right but you might have a college cannery slimeline worker. You need to make sure that you have the salt and the tools to take care of your trophy right.

Shop for a different sleeping bag. You can get one of those Kelty Dridown bags for around $200. They are light and you will be thankful for it.

Take a pair of really light camp shoes or crocs for streamcrossings and for drying your feet at night.

You're the client. Take whatever rifle you shoot best with.
Make sure you can test it before you hunt in earnest.
Get electrical tape for muzzle. I wind it around the barrel as well. Also if you take a wooden stock shoot the whole thing with a bottle of campdry silicone spray on the stock and then use cloth shotgun tape to protect it. It protects even synthetic stock guns by kind of cushioning it from dings.

Bring a small pill container with emergency medicine. Including vicodin. You can never tell when you need it.

Bring gaiters for your boots. They lessen damage to your books and allow your feet to stay drier.

Take a small space blanket in case you have to bivyout or wait out over your sheep. A good pack cover is also good.

A small high lumen flashlight is also good. They don't weigh much but they have been used to drive a curious bear away at night.

Make a journal and look to optimize the amount of time in the field. Sometimes you might have to make your luck. This means you have to sometimes walk to the next drainage or call the outfitter and request a change. Be firm but you are paying for the experience. Go for it.

Make sure you have topos that have been weatherproofed of the entire area that you expect to hunt. It will help.

Take a sawyer waterfilter. They are very light. Giardia is a real concern even in the mountains.

Bring some Mio energy drops to flavor the water. It will be worth it.

Best luck,
Thomas

good advice upon here if you heed it


ime, no one gets serious enough about ounce counting on gear, until they've taken their first sheep or goat.

after that, all the inane looney stuff of going lt. wt. makes much more sense

but not everyone has to pee on the electric fence to learn what happens.

good luck, hope you bag a beauty

Thank you all for the tips thus far. What gaiters do you all recommend? I found some options on Ebay. Thanks!

I'd use a loaner rifle long before I would a loaner pack. Bad idea.

Hunted east of Healy last August in the Alaska range, used a light 270 with 150 ttsx worked great, lots and lots of climbing up down sideways. I am sure u r working on conditioning , that is the name of the game in the range. we did catch some grayling. Or gaiters worked great. It was hot last August and my feet were soaked From sweating constantly hard not to get blisters.
Have a great trip!!!

A good way to avoid sweaty feet and the consequent blisters is to spray one's feet with a regular antiperspirant.

+1

thanks 4 the tip on antiperspirant, but when its in the 70's
and walking all day I could tip my boots upside down and water
would run out

Then start using antiperspirant regularly and a lot of that will stop...

Up early, aren't we?

This antiperspirant spray might be the best advice yet. I will definitely bring some. Thank you.

I would use it between now and when I left for the hunt, and leave the can at home.

Forget the .300, the .308 makes the trip as long as you have great confidence in the rifle,

Borrowing a pack, similar to borrowing used underwear, Bad idea. Buy your own and start getting familar with it now, Sell it when the hunt is over.

The most important things to me were body care, Good snythetic underwear, 2- 1 oz bottles of Goldsbond medicated powder and baby wipes, followed by good socks (bridgedales). You start to chafe, and things become horrible..

Forget the fishing poles, you're sheep hunting, fish at home, not to mention it seems your not counting oz, and you better be.

I had no Insects in The Alaska range either time I was there.

Go absolutely no where without your range finder.(still in therapy over this).

Who is your outfitter if I may ask?

Antiperspirant spray? What is wrong with foot spray products designed for such? Foot powder? Tough Skin? Comments?

The things you listed are not antiperspirants... The idea is to reduce the amount of sweat your feet produce. It works. Foot powder is just dry lube and does nothing to stop the sweating.

Good advice here but don't forget to ask your guide about what he suggests. He has seen all the mistakes and should be able to send you a good recommended list.
Good luck, work hard, shoot straight and take plenty of photos.

Keep the advice coming. Yes, he did send me a list of items to take on the trip. However, I was hoping to get some more details from you all and have some great nuggets to already take away from this forum.

I am hunting with Scott McRae. A family friend of ours has hunted with him a number of times and has great things to say about him. I am really looking forward to it.

www.alaskasummitguideservice.com

You are going to think I am completely weird for this but it really is genius. Take a golf ball along. When you work to dry your feet at night which is essential for keeping you from having blisters develop. Massage your feet with the golf ball. I heard about it and thought it was completely nuts and then I tried it out. I generally never admit to it but I do often take a golf ball and then either an extremely small bottle of pinesol or a handful of mothballs.

I will put a couple of drops of the pinesol near the corner of the tent when I head off. Or I will put the mothballs at the corner of the tent. It keeps varmits away from your tent and stuff. Its much lighter than an electric fence.

Your guide will think you are completely nuts but when you explain your reasoning- he will think you are completely a genius.

Sincerely,
Thomas

I've been blessed with a room-full of DIY rams (dall and others), I'm sure others have too, but here are my thoughts after years of trial and error...

Take the hiking sticks. I question the sanity of anyone who doesn't use them. Use anti-shock. Between my friends and I several of us experience instant wrist problems if we don't use the anti-shock spring-loaded style.

Do NOT take moth balls into the pristine wilds. That poison has no business on a sheep hunt! A few drops of pine sol may work fine to deter bears, I dunno.

Try your friends backpack out. Wear it with weight, train with it.
Take it to a reputable outdoor shop, if they fit it to you and it feels great, use it. Save the $600 guys are giving way for a Kifaru. If it won't work, bite the bullet or ask your guide for his take. He might have one.

Take the fly rod. If your guide says leave it behind with your flying (travel) clothes, leave it behind. Better to be prepared for some great grayling fishing than wish you had it.
I lived in AK and have had my chance to catch the helloutta them, so I wouldn't bring it myself. If you've never caught them? Bring it and hope for an opportunity.

Don't use an antiperspirant anything. That seems like a no-brainer to anyone who is health minded, but clogging your armpit pores, feet etc. is stupidity, imho.
You sweat for a reason. Wear good socks to wick moisture.
For your pits, buy a scent-free all-natural deodorant like Tom's of Maine and cut the deo stick out of it and put it in a zip lock. Use as needed. Gold bond has a strong odor, I'd leave that [bleep] at home.

Take the .308 and the Leupy. If, like you said, you have a good bear load for it, use that gun for both species with confidence.

Check with your guide; he'll very likely have a rangefinder, if not, take one. I missed my first ram without one years ago and swore I'd never sheep or goat hunt without one again. It's been 100% success since.

Leave the gaiters off the sheep mountain. They are just more weight and constriction and aren't necessary. I never use them either way, but I guess for bear country they'd be justified.
Break your boots in well. Train with them.
Don't forget the second skin, or moleskin, for rare blisters or rub spots. If your feet heat up, take the time to air them out properly.

Hope this helps. This advice has come from years of both mistakes and success--all DIY.

Another of AOD's finest...

Laughing here!

Nothing personal, just difference of opinion.

Point taken, Ken. You're right about the RF. I've not used a guide; indeed, I'd take my own with what you've said.
We disagree about the Gold Bond.
That's the joy of freedom of choice with our gear and hunts.




Thank you Sitka.
I consider that a badge of honor, the proof is in the DIY harvest success. Wanna talk about that?

And anymore I have zero to do with AOD and seldom frequent there; but that said, there is lots of good info to be had there.
O.P.--it's absolutely worth a posting there to add to what you garnish here.

And Sitka, if you find my posting that funny, you need a L I F E and some joy, dude.

Disabusing you of your fantasies is the least of my concerns.

You could answer your own questions with a search right here, though.

Just reread this and have to say there is a lot more sense in it than just about anything else posted.

Just had two calls from friends that insisted people would not understand just how freaking stupid and clueless your points are unless I point them out clearly. Fortunately for you I can only type slowly, so you may be able to follow the points...

Roomful... kind of an interesting number, but I killed DIY sheep 14 years in a row. I have killed others. I have guided sheep hunters. I suspect my hands have been in an order of magnitude more sheep guts than you have seen.

I hear the limp-of-wrist benefit from braces... I would not know as the dozens and dozens of folks I have been with in the mountains have never been afflicted with your curse. I do not know anyone that has used the "anti-shock" AKA gay version of walking sticks.

Your Greenpeace attitudes are duly noted on moth balls and Pine Sol and can only laugh about them. You said it better than I could, obviously.

Where did the OP mention borrowing a friend's pack? I missed that along with everyone else with a scintilla of reading comprehension.

"Reputable outdoor shop" for adjusting? Taking a mythical pack to a mythical shop for a pimply-faced summer hire to adjust simply strikes me as really special. YMMV

Now you get back to borrowing from the guide without mentioning how he should train with it.

Finally!! Here is a single sentence that makes sense! It is a defensible argument on bringing the rod. Congratulations! You made sense for 33 whole words! I do not agree, but accept the fact you might be right under the conditions that will exist on the ground in August. This will be your only positive note... Do not let it go to your head.

Antiperspirant has been tested for decades and is not a health issue... period. Even if it were a long-term health issue you would not be looking at long-term issues with a single hunt and run-up to the hunt to help control the single most critical issue in the entire hunt; bad feet.

Antiperspirant works and works well. Anyone that denies that and admits they have never used it deserves every last word of derision possible. Especially when your absolute stupidity might lead someone away from it that could really use it. You show a clear lack of experience in the importance of conrolling wet feet, especially on others. The OP early on realized how important Ironbender's post was and will probably use it and benefit greatly from it. That would be without thanks to you...

And just where did you pull the armpit comment from? No one suggested it was to control anything other than excess foot perspiration. Prejuidicing an important point with noise generated from sheer stupidity is really something to be proud of. Congratulations!

Whoooooopsss! You may have made sense on two points! The 308 will work fine. Who would have thought there would be two positive points??? Amazing!

My rangefinder goes with me every hunt, every time... If there is ever a problem it is only on me. And I even change batteries before every major event. They are too cheap to ignore.

Just exactly what does your cluelessness think gaiters are for? Yes for bear hunts but no for sheep??? I would hate to have to pay your "recreational" reality bills! Gaiters are the single most important thing to protect your boot laces and uppers in scree and shale slides... That one of your professed outdoorsman status has not seen that despite a "roomful" of DIY trophies is at best comical. Or Pathetic... your call.

Rare blisters? More laughing...

Airing out boots and feet? What happens when they swell like EVERY over-heated foot does when you take that boot off?

Have you ever really left the house?

Congrats, I think you would score 100% on the AOD scale despite two not-quite-wrong points!

Only problem is deciding between laughing and crying...

Broomd,

Why do you like the anti-shocks...I bought a pair a couple years ago cause they were actually cheaper than the standard ones and after using both I prefer teh standards...lighter weight and I really don't see or feel what the antishocks do for ya.

Just curious what you like about them.

Thanks

Writing a post of that length just for me? You need a life or hobby or both. (I read the first and last sentence--took awhile to scroll) means I really got under your paper-thin skin.
Love it!

Kenneth disagreed with some of my points, but he oozed class. That's what adults do.

You? Ad hominem first post followed by page-length whine.

Best and only move you have considering you have nothing worth reading to add...

Lanche,

I think some guys have wrists more prone to fubar than others. <me>. Then again 50 is rapidly approaching for me.
I started using anti-shocks in '01 and haven't looked
back--other than the year I used the fixed Black Diamonds.

The fixed were very light and had the nifty flick-lock, but I might have been too used to the spring loaded pole, I had wrist pain after using them for only a few hours.
I went back to the Lekis and have been fine.

I've talked to a couple guys who experienced the same thing.

Plus I like the spring action when leaning on the pole and climbing out of a low spot with a heavy pack.

take what your guide says to take and he will realize that you can read and listen and wont treat you like an idiot for the rest of your trip

The best advice yet!

Now that right there makes the most sense of anything "contributed" so far. Pay attention here.
Bear in Fairbanks

ya wanna know why, I didn't have my range finder with me at the time I really needed it?

Cause the Guide said, I should leave mine at basecamp,has he always has his,

Guides make mistakes every day, just like you and I....

Yep. Guides are just people and make mistakes and forget things too.

Although, it would be interesting to see what guides put on the b!tch list about clients.
A 'guess' list...
1. Out of shape/lazy
2. Know-it-alls. 3. Unprepared gear-wise 4. Unrealistic expectations.

I haven't a clue, but would like to know.

I'll never be without my own rangefinder. And my own GPS.

Be in shape. Carry some of your own personal survival gear. Make sure there is commo IE SPOT or Sat phone at camp.

The guide can die out in the field leaving you for yourself.

Beyond that I defer to the guide. My only other issue being guided, I feel that generally it shoudl be up to the hunter to pick his clothing, IE combos that work for him. If he doesn't know then defer to suggestions.

What I'd expect out of a hunter... be in shape. Be able to shoot. Dont' expect the largest one out there, though we'll try, but be ready to accept nothing. And enjoy the experience. Offer to pitch in where you can. It may be refused but offer anyway.

I've been on four guided Dall hunts and Lord willing will go again in 2014 (Brooks). I have to agree on the lower power scope. Last year after the stalk, we set up on a group of rams at about 200 yards. I had the scope maxed out on 15X, could count the hairs...
Anyway, as I was waiting for the perfect shot to line up, the guide and I were discussing the qualities of the two larger rams, and which one to take. It then occurred to me that if all the rams ran at the shot, I might not be able to follow the chosen one for a follow up shot at 15X. I twisted down to what felt right (6X) and bang flop no worries.
I now have a Leupold 2.5-8X on the sheep rifle.
Also, Lowa makes a good boot, I'd suggest logging about 50 miles in up, down terrain.
Don

I have never hunted in Alaska, but, have spent quite some time in northern BC, hunting and other stuff as well as having lived for periods of three straight months alone on top of a mountain, right on the BC-AK border. I also have backpacked for work and recreation since spring 1964, all over BC and some of Alberta.

So, I would suggest.

1. Poles, I have Komperdell C3s and Black Diamond Carbon whatevers, their top model. I tried Lekies, do not care for anti-shock, some do some don't--I prefer the BDs to any others I have tried.

2. Gaiters, I have several different pairs for different uses and do not go into the mountains without at least one pair. I am buying others to try, as these are a crucial part of MY clothing.

3. Range finder....I AM buying one, just put this off as I have not been able to hunt much for three years as my wife was very ill and my partner has one. BUT, I definitely consider them VERY worthwhile and, btw, I am a former wilderness worker whose job entailed judging distances quickly and am good at it, still, a Leica 12 or 1600 is in MY future.

4. Wet feet KILL a trip, USE the anti-perspirant, have spare socks, change 2-3 times per day and I like Gold Bond Foot Powder plus I prefer plastic bandaids, the large ones covered by fabric Elastplast over moleskin AND I bandage instantly when I feel a "hot spot".

5. Listen to SD on footwear and gloves,he is right and while beeswax is a lot of work to do right and many boots cannot be so treated as you dare not heat them due to plastic heel counters, so use Obenauf's OP, the beeswax is better than ANY other H2O proofing for all leather boots.

6. I NEVER go ANYWHERE, even with a companion, without a very light emergency camp, would have my own GPS and BUY YOUR OWN DECENT pack, as most in gear stores know jackschit about pack fitting, especially for hunting loads.

Last, yappy old geezer that I am, I use 1.75x6. 2.5x8 Leupies, 3x9-Z3 Swaros and 3x9 Conquests on my lighter rifles and I find the Leupies as good as you will ever need in the mountains and LIGHTER than the somewhat optically better Conquests-I don't like the more costly Swaro and won't buy another.

The final suggestion, most crucial for we OLD guys, get into the best shape of your life and then improve that, this really makes the difference.......and, use the .308!

HTH, and may I offer you the very best of luck on your hunt

What's the census on plastic boots? And what style on crampons you guys prefer?

No argument with that point.

Remember quite well back to 2002 when son got his first dall (at last light on opening day).
We were four miles from base in rough jagged country and had no emergency camp (we only going to "walk/scout down the ridge before turning in for the night"--yeah right). Yards turned into miles.
It was a long, cold night of shivering and jumping jacks over that dead sheep.
Lesson learned.


We had little cover and used whites to fool that wary ram.

Best of luck HTH.

Guided hunt? Who cares what you bring... If the guide is worth anything, he'll put you a on legal ram, despite how unprepared you are.

I don't like them. Its not that they are hard on the knees when you have a heavy load coming down the mountain or that they make your feet sweat when its hot. I believe that if you take a pair of boots that you are going to use and then get them wet with your sock choice and then "walk them dry" that they work to form fit to your feet. Plastics like the Scarpa seem to fail to fit as well.

I used to run instep crampons but I have since moved to BD Cyborgs. They are a bit spendy but they just chew up ice and talus.

I also like OR Croc gaiters better than Kennetreks.

I switch between Hanwag Trapper GTX and Kennetrek Mountain Extreme 400s. Both fit my feet right. However, you can learn how to tie boots for various loads and that is an important thing as well.

SD or Broomd may not know who Fred Rungee was but Fred always lived alone in very bad grizzly country. Fred was Dunc Gilchrist's best bud for a long time when they both worked for the Forest Service. Fred was attacked three different times and chewed on twice. He is still alive at 96 years old and while he has a cabin at Duffy's Roadhouse he still gets back up to his cabin and homestead on Lake Lorraine 3 miles off of the road where he has lived for 50 years. Fred got me on to moth balls. I would take just a couple in a ziplock bag and place them under the corners. I have not had my camp raided or my foodstuffs plundered for many years.
I also talked about mothballs with Ed Stevenson who still guides up Sheep River in the Talkeetnas and is probably the only guide alive who has been mauled by brownies twice. He agrees with me on the mothballs. I still go up into some of the rugged country and will go again this year. I teach school and those in Alaska know that it sucks for hunting. School starts on August 10th. Some genius came up with that.

I will still fly into that glacial space until Gary Green retires and then I will have to take a boat up there. I am only a couple of years away from retirement and then I can do 30 day hunts up Anderson and Walsh.
This may not mean anything to you and that is fine.

I have no ego but just try to help.

sincerely,
Thomas

Thomas,

I sent you a pm.

That is VERY interesting, I knew Grizzly researchers 30-40+ years ago, who would pour anhydrous ammonia around their mountain tented campsites and told us that this repelled Grizzlies.

I don't know, never tried it and in the many years where I would spend months alone with only a supply trip once every six weeks living in some of the most densely populated Grizzly country on Earth, I just kept a meticulously clean camp, burned ALL organic wastes AND cans, bottles, etc and watched what/where and how I did things. I had several close encounters, but, no real problems and I enjoy seeing these bears up close...as long as they are "friendly".

However, the thing that I have found extensive bush time teaches is NOT how "much" you know...it is how LITTLE and also how humility REALLY is your best "tool" for bush life.

I am going to get some mothballs and test this in the Kootenays with bears and a "bait" as this is perhaps the best "tip" that I have ever been given, other than to stay away from "slides".

I agree for the most part, but feet will stop the hunt. Can't shoot will prevent the kill. Bad attitude will make both of you wish you were never born

To kscowboy,

If the only outerwear you have is gore-tex, you will be soaked most of the time, from the inside due to sweating. Until you actually do some climbing in the sheep mtns., you have no idea how much work it will be. And if (when) it rains, you will get even wetter from the rain. The gore-tex will work good for breaking the wind while ridge top glassing. Don't expect it to keep you dry if get into a good ol' Alaskan rainy spell.

Take some quick drying, breathable outer wear and be sure to pack some GOOD rain gear. If you happen to have a wet hunt, the gore-tex won't keep you dry. Surprised that none of the AK locals have mentioned this fact yet. Some like the HH Impertech. It works great but some will complain about the weight of it. Marmot Precip rain gear seems to work well as does Red Ledge rain gear.

Cut weight on your gear any place you can. Every ounce will add up quickly and you'll be leaving more and more things at camp each day you hunt. I see no need for a huge, heavy rifle scope. I have used a 2.5 x 8 Leupold on all of my sheep hunts and it has worked fine. One poster mentioned taking a regular space blanket. Do it!! It will help keep you warm and dry if you need to spend a night or two away from camp. Pack your items that must stay dry in zip lock bags. I always try to leave a dry pair of long underwear at camp to change into before crawling in my sleeping bag. In the morning the damp ones go back on, so that I will again have some dry clothes to sleep in. Other than the extra set of longhandles and a couple extra pair of socks, the only clothes I take are the ones I am wearing plus a warm jacket and rain gear. Sometimes one water bottle is enough, other times two may be needed. Ask your guide.

Will you need hip boots for stream crossings before you start climbing??

Think about running steps to get in shape for climbing. If you don't have any nearby, your basement steps, if you have them, will work fine. Run them until you can make 100 trips up and down in 20 minutes or less. Running or walking on flat ground does nothing to strengthen the muscles used while climbing.

Take a small camera and take LOTS of pictures. If the camera uses a rechargable battery, take a fully-charged extra one along.

If you have a leather rifle sling, get a nylon one. The leather will get wet and heavy and take a while to dry...the nylon one will dry quickly. Don't forget some type of scope covers to keep the lenses dry.

A few of duct tape can come in very handy. Wrap some around a tooth brush handle or buy a small roll from an outdoor shop.

You will be eating different food. Take along a few meds to get your "plumbing" uncloged if that becomes a problem and also take along something to slow down the 'flow' if that becomes a problem. Best way to avoid either problem is to stay hydrated.

Have a GREAT hunt and ENJOY Alaska!!!

Typically, a sheep is a large white aiming point. If you think you need more than 4x for any range at which you should be shooting, then you'd be wrong. Google up the subtension of a 4x duplex leupold reticle and get back to me.

On the other hand, using the fat part of the duplex for range estimation can be worthwhile as well. IIRC, the 6x leupolds subtend 9" at 100 yards, and your sheep/muley chest is ~18" deep. Good enough to firm up a 300-yard range estimate when your RF gets dropped or is otherwise TU. If I can't fit half a sheep chest between the fat points on the vertical hair (~400 yards), then I know I need to get closer. I've not used a LRF on a mountain hunt, though I have one. If I do ever go LRF, I'll put turrets on a 4x leupold to mess with heads...

You need three layers of pants: medium weight thermal underwear, some sort of DWR treated quick-dry 4-way stretch walking pant, and lightweight rain gear. I use merino wool, then either REI mistral or some sort of mountain hardwear earth-tone walking pant, and patagonia rainshadown rain pants. Some see fit to spend huge $$ on various pricy gucci camo mountain hunting pants that typically have too-few and too-bulky belt loops, which are well suited to bunching up and giving you a nice heat rash under your heavy pack's waistbelt on a long hot packout.

On top, I take a lightweight thermal t-shirt, a heavyweight thermal top, a puffy insulating layer, and lightweight rain gear (Mountain Hardwear Cohesion jacket).

Gaiters - save half the weight over crocs and get OR verglas instead. Don't leave home without them.

Hiking poles: If you find yourself on something really steep and slippery, you'll regret not having something to arrest with. I take a 100cm ice axe from SMC in Ferndale, WA and use it as a cane on the flats and an arresting tool on the slick steeps. for the other hand I take a Black Diamond boundary 2-section ski pole for a walking stick.

You'd better inquire as to what kind of spotter your guide has, and react accordingly...A pentax 65mm angled with an XW-10 or XW-14 eyepiece will give as good a view as about anything, for not too much $$. You won't be able to use much more than the 39x given by the XW-10 eyepiece when the mirages start.

Take a pair of UL running shoes from vibram or new balance or whomever, and do your stream crossings with those. They weigh nothing - about the same as crocs, and are WAY more useful around camp and such. Or, for small shin or knee-high streams, tighten up those gaiters, tie a string *tight* around your ankle and top of calf to seal things off, and give 'er hell.

For training, if you've trained to the point that you can spend most of a day hiking on steep terrain without blistering feet or hurting yourself, then your cardio will have taken care of itself.









Crampons: stubai aluminum 10-point strapons are the standard.

There's no way I would go on any hunt without my rangefinder and it wouldn't matter if the guide had one or not. I've had issues with the Leica's in the past on Dall sheep so I use a different brand now just because of it.

Lightweight rain gear as mentioned above is a must, I haven't tried it yet but I've heard great things about the Westcomb which utilizes eVent, it's light and breathable gear.

I also am not a fan of the anti-shok trekking poles and my Leki Makalu's have worked well for me.

Do yourself a favor and bring a good camera and take lots of pictures, 20 years from now you'll be glad you did.

I also like to bring a bandana with me for those hot days, soak it in a creek and wear it under you hat.

The suggestion of camp shoes is a great idea and I never go on a hunt without them.

I've become a big fan of merino wool, specifically boxers and socks, they will keep you warm and dry on those cool mornings.

A good pair of binos is a MUST, I've been using a pair of Swarovskis in 10x42 for years and love them but they are a bit heavy. Just make sure you bring the best you can afford.

Westcomb is THE best I have used in 40+ years of wearing this kind of clothing year 'round. Event IS great, better than any GT I have ever had, BUT, this new "Neoshell" they use in my "APOC" shell is freakin' insane and is actually fairly quiet, too.

Lotsa bux, worth EVERY penny!

In the brooks in August, I'd go pretty heavy on bug protection, and lighter on clothes. For sure you want some insulation, but you don't need redundant layers. I'd go with a goretex type rain gear (lighter) as well.

I probably go way too heavy in sleeping bag, but we generally hunt the late season. I like an ice axe in some situations, but I wouldn't carry one for that location and time of year. Trekking poles will be very handy. Anti-shock is an absolute gimmick in my opinion, but I watched a buddy destroy a pair of "anti-shock" poles in a single hunt, and haven't looked at it since.

Be prepared to cover a lot of ground. If you are not going up/down or sidehilling, you will be in soggy lumpy tundra or rocky river/creek bottoms. There is some nice walking, but it will never last more than 100 yards.

Thank you all again for the tips. I do have a Leica rangefinder that has been used over the years on whitetails here in KS and trips to CO and NM. I will definitely plan to take it along.

I called Leupold today and will do the CDS turrets on the .308. A family friend who I spent the day with yesterday has a range to shoot 400 yards+. His wife is a 1,000 record holder in her bench class and he is a reloading guru. He is pumped about helping me, as he gets to "go along" on the hunt in a way. He will help me train when it comes to shooting and developing a good sheep load. Talk about a good friend to have!

We are going to load some 150 grain Barnes TSX and see how they shoot. We also have some other bullets that we may try but will start here.

As a young guy who just turned 30, it's amazing the knowledge-sharing that guys are willing to give you if you respect their knowledge and are willing to shut-up, listen, and be appreciative. I feel as though my generation lacks this a times.

Thank you again and keep the tips coming.

i still stick by my statement about listening to your guide but if you want check out Scott Luber and Steve Bethune's video called lace 'em up ,some good info there.

I realize you skinny bastards can do all sorts of teleporting, mind-bending, kid dragging, fat-old-man abusing, and such without breaking a sweat... but how did you change the OP's hunt from the AK Range to the Brooks?

Just realized it, sorry, got it, man I am dumb, and why didn't I realize you were just trying to keep the AK Range to yourself!

I have put quite a few Barnes bullets through sheep and bears... They are always my first choice for everything. In October I managed to catch the first Barnes bullet I have ever shot when a caribou bull spine at 20 feet stopped an 85gr TTSX from a 25-06. It was well below zero, too...

I have never had an issue getting recent X iterations to shoot. Only one really accurate rifle of mine does not like Barnes bullets. It has not been fed TSX or TTSX yet, so I would not consider that a real test for today's bullets.

Dewey
Really?

Thought you had gotten over the nonsense of thinking 200 bear sightings in 40 years made your bear population "dense!" While my son's Kodiak hunt this year only lasted an hour and we only saw three bears if you include two the next day... that is still pretty dense when comparing 200 in 40 years.

Of course last spring we only saw about 200 in two weeks, literally.

Assuming you have a decent rifle and binoculars, keep your feet happy, eat enough calories, sleep warm and preferably dry.

The rest is fluff (makes the hunt more comfortable/ arguably better chance of success - but not necessarily "necessary" gear!)

I've only killed 6 sheep, plus been on a couple of no-show-hunts. Lots of good advice above, especially on gear. Of which I've had virtually none. But don't obsess about it. (Buncha puzzies..... :))

My first sheep hunt (40 years ago), for example, was solo, 18 miles back-pack in to the mountain (Kelty B-50 pack- I finally wore it out a few years ago, after replacing the back webbing and straps after that first sheep hunt - they kinda broke on the way out under that 180# est. load...!). For gear, I had a 10X10 plastic sheet, a closed-cell foam pad and 3 season down sleeping bag, 9 X 40? Swift binoculars - since stolen, 8 days minimal rations, a light jacket, rain gear, minimal first aid kit, a compass and map. The rifle was a Rem 700 in .243, wearing a B&L 4X scope, with 10 rounds of 100 gr. factory. 2 knives, game saw, cheeze cloth game bags (don't use them!). 2 days in, 2 days out, 4 days to hunt was the plan.

Killed my full-curl ram at 50 feet on the second day of the season, after having found them the day before, and made an unsuccessful stalk from above, as recommended from my readings. Having observed their pattern for most of the first day, I adjusted my strategy (breaking the rule) day 2 and made the stalk from below.... and they did the same thing.... The following two seasons in that valley were equally successful, slightly different spots, and stalk from above situational scenarious, ranges 35 yards and 50 yards. Years later, I got a spotting scope..... Of course, all I was and am interested in is "legal", not "book", trophy, etc. Binocs were good enough for that - up to mile and a half. On one subsequent hunt elsewhere, I took the 3rd best, but still legal ram at 50 yards, using binocs to judge by, 'cuz he needed to die...- i.e. culled from possible reproduction. He, and the first one, are the only ones I've had mounted (it was a superb hunt!). The hunt is the trophy, not the particular head for me. YMMV, and that's perfectly OK. The point is - be happy!

40 years after that first hunt, I'm saying listen to these guys above on the gear!!! It's come a long way since then - and far beyond my pocket book. That 3rd/4th leg is of huge advantage on rough ground, especially so with a load. I'm cheap, and use a 6' birch stick of my own manufacture on all my hunts, mt or flat. Obviously you have some bucks to spare, so get yourself a good 1,000 yard rangefinder - they are good on "non-reflective" animals to about half the distance - as far as you should be shooting. The actual (ARC ? ) gravitational feature should prove handy on up-hill/down-hill shots. (I've gotta get something better than the 400 max reflective distance one that I've got, myself)

Take the lighter Leupold Scope. GPS is fine, but map and compass is essential. I've had GPS let me down twice when needed- failed antanae, and a satellite changeover - and of course there are the batteries... SPOT or Sat phone is kinda superfolous if hunting with a guide - unless you need them.. and extra weight to carry. More important if hunting alone.

We humans/pre-humans have been killing animals for 3 million years or so, without all this techno-stuff. Man-up a bit!!!

And good luck!

On seconfd thought, why bother.

Dewey
Just trying to put a cap on your imagination... Humorous as can be when you start talking about charging bears, most notably the instruction from you to shoot them under the chin. You seem to think being in an area with bears without seeing them is huge resume fodder.

A poem just for you:
There once was a Cunuck named Kutenay
With charging bear advice that is free
"Shoot under the chin"
Says the little munchkin
I guess he must be two foot three.

Ah, just as I was editing, you post yet another of your 23000+ posts, welll, again, why bother.

The Leicas I owned worked great on everything except dall sheep, for some reason I could not get them to range them no matter how close or far they were from me. I don't know if it was because of their white coloration or what but on my last dall hunt my Bushnell Scout 1000 worked perfectly. Good luck to you.

I have not had the issue with a Leica on sheep, but CWH2 did last fall in the Alaska Range, now that you mention it. I wrote it off as wierd conditions... lots of fog/clouds/distance.

Funny stuff again... Picking on a post count when you have a pretty high count that was interrupted for a serious length of time because of your rantings. What do you suppose your count would be if you had been allowed to post the whole time?

I much prefer making sure my posts are correct and welcome any challenge you may have based on substance. Feel free to correct me anywhere. And realize there are many here that have been with me on those trips you are suggesting did not happen.

If it would have been just 1 of the Leicas then I would have just kept it but it happened with 2 different Leica CRF 1200's. 1 was probably 2 years old at the time (2011) and the other was brand new. I've had no issues at all with the Bushnell, it ranged my last ram with no problem at all.

I have carried a 1 mill drop cloth 9x12 something that size ..its lite...It saved us a "sukassday" one time> when a monster rain storm came while we were about 6500'...we could see it coming and we were going to "get it big time" we got a good rock seat facing the on slot...40 min of Heavy rain and wind latter , we uncovered and hunted the rest on the trip high and dry!!

You're right, lots of good interesting/useful stuff. I have only ever dreamed of sheep hunting. At your age I loved to scramble through any terrain, especially mountains. 25 years and hereditary have ruined any hope I have of doing that again. I don't regret the pics I maybe only wish we had had digital back then. "Gore-tex will get you wet" has been my experience as well - except in mild use. +1 on nylon slings. If you decide to run with Barnes monos, not that need you that hard a bullet to get good penetration, find a good combo for the ones with the extra T, the TTSX. Monos work great when they work right, but I have caught or recovered over half of the TSXs I've used and expansion has been weak. Monos dote on speedy impacts, and the 308, an excellent hunting choice, will not be breaking any speed records. You might even consider an Accubond.

You REALLY don't get it, eh, I am the SECOND person whom you have attacked on a personal basis in this thread, alone. That, is characteristic of you as I have seen here both in the first four years I was here and, again, after I voluntarily left and then returned last year....you seem to "need" to attempt to denigrate others constantly and as I have said, several times before now, I just DO NOT care what you think or find any of your foolish rants more than slightly amusing.

As to my posts, I started posting here, three years after I retired and I MIGHT have made fewer than half of your huge total if I had wanted to remain from March, 2008 to last year. In all that time, on the few sites that I have made posts on, as a retired person, largely kept at home due to a very ill wife, I have made FEWER than HALF the number of posts that you, a supposed very busy and "experienced" professional bushman, have made on this site alone.....

So, ART, I am, again, just NOT INTO bothering with your sort of behaviour and I am sure that you will have more of your foolish and false comments to make here about me...and, then, you will harass someone else....much like a "class bully" in primary school......

So, have at 'er, you DA REAL MAN.....exit, laffin'.....

I guess my mind was just in the brooks? Ignore all that Brooks-range specific info... my bad.

There are no sheep in the AK range, but I'd still love to keep it to myself.

I'm not a fan personally. But I know many that are.



For crampons on a sheep hunt (depending on the season and location) I really like these: http://hillsound.com/hillsound-product/trail-crampon/

They are light, quick and easy on/off.

For a hunt where I know I'll be playing on ice and steep snow, I prefer these: http://www.kahtoola.com/kts_crampons_details.php in steel.


Art, quit making fun of the Canadian. That's mean....

Here is what prompted my comments:
"I don't know, never tried it and in the many years where I would spend months alone with only a supply trip once every six weeks living in some of the most densely populated Grizzly country on Earth, I just kept a meticulously clean camp, burned ALL organic wastes AND cans, bottles, etc and watched what/where and how I did things. I had several close encounters, but, no real problems and I enjoy seeing these bears up close...as long as they are "friendly". "

It is part of a discussion we shared previously. The most densely populated grizzly country and you lived it for months at a time alone... and saw just 200 bears in 40 years. I am not the only person here that finds that number funny. And you keep usng it though you know that... Do the real math on your post count and get back to us on how much the differnce works out to.

Questioning bad advice is now wrong? Questioning the source of bad advice is wrong?

Not really looking to be mean... I am just lazy and it is easy.

CWH2,

I agree I've tried the plastic boot thing, but not for me.

As far as crampons, I used those Hillsounds for 2 years, but after 17 days on Kodiak last year on two different mountain goat hunts they were completely destroyed.

My buddy got the cypress 6 point crampons and they are definitely stouter and faster to put on/off.

But I got the Kahtoola K-10s and so far I like 'em, but we'll see once I get couple sheep hunts and goat hunts on them this year.

When I was younger and skinny I really liked my Koflach hunters (Plastic Boots) kept my weak ankles in support and gave me confidnce on side hills. But now after a broken leg incident and weight, and knee issues I don,t know. They were not the answer for all hunts and all terrain.

If you haven't yet gotten a full dollar's worth, then here's my $.02:

Rifle: Sheep have amazing eyesight, but thankfully they still can't read headstamps. Any reasonable cartridge will get 'em dead, so don't feel as if you need to bring a 1,500 yard extra-flat shooter. "Beanfield 1-holers" are great, but you'll be schlepping your bangstick up nearly vertical hillsides, in a state of exhaustion. Yes, weight matters. To me, though, confidence in your setup is the most important consideration. Take the rifle that you know you can't miss with, so long as the weight isn't ridiculous.

Fishing Pole: don't bring it. There's a low chance that you'd actually get to use it, but a 100% change you'll be thinking about how heavy your pack is by the morning of Day 2. If you're not brining a spotter, then don't bring the rod & reel. And the corollary is that if your guide is bringing the spotter, then he can probably have a fishing kit available, too.

Sleeping Bag: Only you can say what's enough, & what's too much. I've read accounts of posters here sleeping comfortably at 10 below in a 20-degree-rated bag. I'm the opposite - I've gotta add at least an extra 15 degrees to a bag's rating to see where I'd start to feel uncomfortable. Weight certainly matters, but if you're freezing your azz off all night, then you aint sleepin'. And you're gonna NEED that sleep.

Backpack: I side with those who say you've gotta be intimately, even BIBLICALLY familiar with your pack. It's gotta fit you extremely well. If your guide is willing to ship you one of his extra bags now, then you can play with it & see if it works for you. But showing up for your hunt and expecting to everything to work out is a certain recipe for disaster. Murphy's law applies doubly to expensive hunts.

Clothes: You will get wet from within & without - count on it. Keep an extra set in a Ziploc or dry bag. Your base & mid layers must breathe. Your outer layers must shed water well, &/or come off quickly if needed. This is an area to pay special heed to the guide/outfitter's recommendations, particularly when it comes to rain gear.

Survival Kit: You are responsible for getting your butt off the mountain. Period. Sure, you're hiring a guide, but you will always be 1 accident away from being on your own. Do your own research, pack what makes you comfortable, and be extremely familiar with each and every item you choose to include.

Comfort Items: I hate to title it this way, as it will invite even more ridicule than all the other well-meaning posts in this thread. For me, baby wipes, Gold Bond, Motrin, Visine, Immodium, Dayquil capsules, Starbucks Via, etc., are more than just comfort items. They can keep me going when I otherwise might be loathe to leave the tent. You're spending good $ to do this hunt, so make sure you can get out there & do it. As for the sheep smelling the Gold Bond? If they can pick the smell of the Gold Bond out above the Hoppes on my rifle, the nasty stench of my drawers on day 10, or my Mountain House flatulence, then more power to 'em. You have to hunt the wind regardless, so why do it with a raw crotch?

Attitude: Far & away the most important determinant in the success of your hunt. You've seen from all these posts that there are many different ways to do this hunt successfully, so there's no one "right" answer. Trust in your hunting area, your guide, and yourself. No matter how much physical training you do beforehand, you'll wish you'd done more. Set that aside, and know that you'll get everywhere you need to go on the mountain, and you'll get there when you get there. Patience & perseverance win the day.

Good luck!

FC

I would suggest you get a stick of Body Glide anti chafe balm and try it while your getting in shape. I don't know how it will work on a extended hunt but for the couple a three days jaunts I've used it,it worked great for heels and jock areas.

kscowboy01,
Lot's of great info above. I hunted sheep three times in the Brooks and wish I could have done it at your age. Only thing I'd add to the above would be to add hydration bladder of some type.
I took along pacs of "propel" and added a pac or two each morning when filling up. This is what I used on my last hunt and thought it was great.

.http://www.basspro.com/CamelBak-Unbottle-Hydration-System-70-oz-/product/10225892/

"I always try to leave a dry pair of long underwear at camp to change into before crawling in my sleeping bag. In the morning the damp ones go back on, so that I will again have some dry clothes to sleep in. " Good info!!

Good Luck!!

Great advice above but to boil it down:

Take a young man's legs and an old man's wallet!

Only have one Dall sheep hunt to my credit but I believe the best thing, as others have stated, is to train with the backpack I used. I bought a Barney's as that was what my guide was using. I got permission from a local ski hill owner and used that for my training. Not as good as "mountains" but it worked better than nothing. Going uphill is harder on the muscles but going downhill is harder on the joints. I worked my way up to 65 pounds as that was the estimate from my guide. I am certainly not a youngster anymore but did not have any problems with my legs or feet. Alot of good advise here.

I dd not take a spotting scope with my as my guide had his Swarovski. I wish I had taken my own, a lowly Leupold, as it was a little frustrating to look at the white specks with my 10X binos while the guide was counting the rings!! That was about all I really wanted extra.

Drink lots of water. I got leg cramps one night and guide said I probably wasn't drinking enough water. Sure was nice drinking straight from the streams and I drank more from then on.

Good luck and have fun. Alot of the fun is the excitement and preparation of these hunts. I know as I have drawn a tag for a long awaited Utah elk hunt this year.!!!!!

Don't overthink the equipment. You've got plenty of good stuff. Sheep hunting is as hard as hunting gets, so make damn sure you are in shape. In the last 2 months besides hiking and walking I would be on a stairclimber with a loaded pack many days a week.

Your mental outlook is really important. Sheep live in the tall and steep sometimes with lots of fog, wind and clouds. Do not get discouraged by tough conditions. You are asking for those by chasing sheep around. If it was easy, women and kids would be going with you. Lots of people emphasize equipment, but do not get in good enough shape physically and mentally.

I heard people mention get a Barney's pack but should it be internal frame or external frame? Which is best for sheep hunting?

To each their own, but I would recommend an external frame pack. I think its way more versatile than an internal.

I have carried both external and internals on sheep hunts.

It is true - externals are more versatile.

Barneys packs are great.

Whenever people talk about Barney's packs they are referring to the external frame frontier gear of Alaska models.

http://barneyssports.com/backpacks/...laska-frieghter-frame-pinnacle-pack.html

This is the pack I am talking about and the one up above in the picture, drying out.

My bad - it is indeed listed as an external...

I just carry it, I guess.

I'll be taking my Barney's setup. I'm thinking I might replace the pinnacle bag for a new one or go with a hunter bag.

IMHO, NO, no way! My partner tried an internal (one of the more common ones often mentioned on the board) and he said it sucked. They keep you bent over too much while walking. Get an external frame pack and tighten up the belt so your hips take most of the weight. You can then loosen the shoulder straps to "snug" to take some of the weight off them. Much easier on you.
Bear in Fairbanks

Sounds like that pack wasn't fitted to the user properly...
I'm not a fan of "Barney's"...but no reason for that kind of problem unless fit was never right from the start.

There are a lot of packs that will work. The Barney's pack is a good one, but I think you could save some money going with an older Dana or similar. I am a fan of externals, but plan to run an internal this year.

certainly no expert, but I've been fortunate to use some decent packs

Barney's, McHale, Mystery Ranch and Kifaru packs.


if I'm going to have to haul a butt busting load, I'll take the Barney's thank you. YMMV

My mileage has not varied at all actually, although my pack experience is considerably less.

My training pack is a Camp Trails. Solid pack frame, and that particular one has been around the block... The pack would not be the weak link in the equation if that was your choice, but it is not the most comfortable thing ever invented. It makes me appreciate my Barney's Pack. I consider it (the Barney's Pack) one of the very best investments I've made in my life.

Are you saying here that you have found the Barney's external frame pack, which is, as I understand it---and, I freely admit, I have not seen one, only photos--- to be BETTER at hauling really heavy loads than one of Dan McHale's custom expedition packs?

I ask, not to further foolish controversy over "whose is best", but, I am considering the purchase of an "Inex" from Dan and he does offer varying grades of "frame" rigidity, depending on your projected loads. So, did you have one of his large, big load packs correctly fitted to YOU and, if so, was this LESS comfortable, FOR YOU, than the Barney's?

I think that I have read MAYBE 2 negative comments about the Barney's packs over my 9 years on various forums and while that design, the old CampTrails "Freighter" is one I have extensive experience with, I understand that there are improvements over it, in the actual Barney's packs.

So, I am impressed by all the positive feedback concerning them and am just curious as to the McHale issue?

TFF Chris, I too use my old camp trails to train with, and save the wear and tear on my Barney's for actual hunts.


kutenay, admittedly some of my choice is just personal preference.

I've hauled a lot of heavy loads (too many for a guy my size) over the years, both as a guide on hunts and for my own personal hunting. Started out with a Kelty frame with just a backpack lashed to it for my personal gear, then purchased a camp trails, big improvement for me, just dropping meat inside the pack rather than having to lash the meat to the frame, just much faster.

had an outfitter over for a barbeque and had been out on a training run when he told me my Camp Trails was "chitty" ???? and turned me onto the Barney's pack. Did have to do some welding to my Camp Trails after too many heavy loads. Used the Barney's a lot after purchasing it, lots of heavy loads, sometimes 2-3 moose per season, most often a Dall sheep, and lots of caribou quarters have gone piggy back on me in that particular pack.

Only started trying the externals 5-6 years ago, and truthfully for non hunting I think I prefer internal packs, particularly the Mystery Ranch though it's a heavy pack to begin with. I used it when we backpacked down into the Grand Canyon about 5 years ago.


ime, comfort pretty much leaves the building when I put over 100- 125 lbs. in any pack to haul out. Though I can go a long ways with a moose quarter in my Barney's pack. All the packing I've done has contributed some wear and tear to my Barney's pack, but even more to myself, knees, shoulder surgeries etc.


I've hunted out of that Barney's pack so much and so often, I may not be the best person to give a good opinion on the merits of it versus a MR or McHale or Kifaru.

I've tried all 3 of those systems, though I've never hauled game loads in the internals, just dead weight for training runs.

they never seemed as (hate to use the word) comfortable to me with heavy training loads ( I normally don't train with any more than 90 lbs. in my pack) as the Barney's.

but admittedly even though I truly do prefer the Barney's for hauling 100 lb. + loads, there's other reasons Barney's is my favorite hunting pack.

for one, it's rigid, and I take the top bar off my external frames, they fit in a SuperCub easier that way, I like the fact that I can prop it up with a hiking pole to load and unload.

the fact that it's rigid also aids (ime) putting the pack on with a heavy load in it vs. internal frames. To me that's one of the most difficult aspects of hauling heavy loads, getting it on yourself and getting up, once you're upright or loaded, you're just hauling a butt busting load no matter what pack you're carrying the freight within. But I do find I'm able to walk more upright with a heavy load (90 lbs. +) in an external vs. internal pack

also when I've stripped my load down for hunting, it provides a good chair back with my butt pad that I haul between the frame and the pack for extended glassing.

it also provides a better windbreak when set on edge, so I can continue to glass when the wind is howling.


but the number one reason beyond it's ability to help me carry a heavy load that I love an external particularly my Barney's pack
is that it's an invaluable shooting aid for me. Particularly with the top bar removed as I use mine. Offhand is my weakest shooting position, I much prefer a rest for my shooting, and hunting above timberline or in tundra, sometimes you can find a rock or hummock (if you have time to do so) to give me a steady position to shoot from. I do use a Kifaru gun bearer on all my packs, and even with just lunch, a jacket, raingear , spotter, tripod and survival stuff and in my Barney's I can go from upright with rifle in the gun bearer to sitting and a steady rest, in less than a second or two.

I can't stress how valuable that is to me and the way I hunt.

it's as good as shooting off a bench to me, while prone perhaps might be a bit steadier, after offhand it's my least favorite way to shoot, as I find often there's enough vegetation even in alpine or tundra that prone severely limits my view.

Shooting off my pack is danged near as steady for me as shooting off a shooting bench. but way more flexible as I can move my bench (the pack) forward or backward for elevation or even turn it a bit for walking game if need be.

and it's super quick for me to go from walking upright with rifle stored (leaving my hands free for hiking pole or quick glassing) to sitting with an almost rock solid rest and pasting crosshairs on my target.


But even taking those things away, with the last being of paramount importance to me and the way I hunt.

Yes I do prefer to haul a heavy load with my external over an internal.

I know and respect hunters that use internals and it works best for them and the way they hunt.

but in my personal experience, I much prefer the Barney's both for hauling heavy loads "comfortably" (lol, that's such a poor word for this application) and just to hunt with.

same way with binocs, I've had the great opportunity to use all the high end glass out there, Swavorski, Leica, Zeiss etc. for extensive periods of time. And good optics are wonderful, imo&e one of the top things that help determine a successful hunt. But I still prefer my old Zeiss Classics in 10x40, (provided I keep the lenses clean) as they just fit me.

I'm prejudiced towards them, I've used them for many, many days and hours afield. They just fit me, or perhaps through extended use I fit them might be more appropriate terminology.

in much the same way I may be "prejudiced" on my preference for external vs. internal.


so there's no way I can ever say what's "best" for someone else, but I do have definite opinions on what's best for me and the way I hunt

but admittedly some of my preference is undoubtedly influenced by how much time I've spent with a particular piece of gear.

I like new as much as the next guy, but when push comes to shove, I'll reach for tried and true every day of the week.

jeezus I feel like I need a freakin editor and publisher after that diatribe!