All the reviews I have read about it, are very positive. I do like the idea it uses no ammonia and does not require a brush to remove carbon or copper. Just curious what the consensus is about the product as I have to order it. No one carries the product close to me.
... No one carries the product ...
Fixed it for you. Wonderful stuff - well worth ordering. Be sure and ask on here about applying it without getting it all over. Everyone has methods that work for everyone but me. I am reminded of
Portnoy's Complaint each time I use it. (But I keep on using it and liking it.)
Good stuff.. Works great when I clean the bores on my rifles.
Which is pretty much a once a year deal..
Its good for copper especially if you have installed Dura Coat and can't get aggressive with JB. Does a better job for me than Montana Extreme.
Use it once a year. Spray in the barrel out side because it will come out the end of the barrel. I use short spurts of the Wipe-Out so it doesn't just fly thru the barrel. Put empty plastic bottle over the end of the barrel so if anything drips It catches while you wait for it to work. I leave it in the gun for an hour. Then follow the instructions to use patches to clean it out. After clean put some solvent like Shooters Choice on a patch and clean like normaly to get anything that might be left. This Wipe-Out takes out a lot of copper and such so next time you shoot you will have to shoot some fouling shots before the barrel is seasoned and ready to go. Great stuff.
Buckfever1
I've been using it for a couple of years, really like it alot. It's great for copper, just be sure you aren't in a hurry, as it takes several hours, sometimes more than one treatment. Don't use the accelerator, as it is supposed to be corrosive.
It's not so great on carbon, and I use a carbon solvent before I use Wipe Out, if I'm really being picky.
Better than Wipe Out is Montana Extreme, also not corrosive, but it really stinks (I only use it outside). Faster than Wipe Out.
I switched from the foam "WipeOut" to the liquid "PatchOut", the same stuff but less messy to use.
Both are great from removing copper
Just don't get it on your wood. Ir will absolutely destroy the finish/
Thanks guys, a wealth of information. Will order some soon
been using it of late since this spring.....must have used it on 10 rifles thus far. some repeated use is required with barrels of mine that "pull" copper more than others. gave away the "other" stuff I've used for yrs. happily.
like others have said, works great on copper, but does nothing on carbon.
Funny, the advertise that it removes all barrel deposits. I think I can live with getting the copper out without much brush work. Currently, I use brake cleaner to remove carbon and it works good.
Been using Wipe Out for the past couple of years. I now clean my barrels with an initial pass of Hoppes Elite, a patch, then apply the Wipe Out. I usually let it sit overnite before running a patch thru the barrel. Usually one treatment does the trick, but it varies from gun to gun.
I no longer use brushes of any kind, and always use a bore guide. Better accuracy and longer barrel life due to not scrubbing the dickens out of them with excessive bore brushing, are the upsides of using Wipe Out, imo.
I switched from the foam "WipeOut" to the liquid "PatchOut", the same stuff but less messy to use.
Both are great from removing copper
+2 great stuff.
I also let it sit overnight. When I get up to pee, I go and rotate the rifle in the cradle, so that the liquid that condenses from the foam gets to sit on the other side of the barrel. Not sure if that makes any sense or not, but little that I do does. (You could ask my wife.)
The way to avoid the mess with Wipeout is wrap the straw with masking tape to about the neck dia of the chamber, insert the straw into the chamber, give it a half second burst, let it foam for a bit, another half second burst and wait until it stops foaming before removing the straw. If you use short bursts and wait for it stop foaming up you'll reduce the excess that foams out the muzzle or back into the action.
Then set the rifle with the muzzle pointing slightly down to avoid having it run back into the action. I use a cardboard box with V cut-outs and rag under the muzzle to catch the drips.
Who uses WipeOut Bore cleaner?
Not me -- prefer KG products. Less mess and better results.
The way to avoid the mess with Wipeout is wrap the straw with masking tape to about the neck dia of the chamber, insert the straw into the chamber, give it a half second burst, let it foam for a bit, another half second burst and wait until it stops foaming before removing the straw. If you use short bursts and wait for it stop foaming up you'll reduce the excess that foams out the muzzle or back into the action.
Then set the rifle with the muzzle pointing slightly down to avoid having it run back into the action. I use a cardboard box with V cut-outs and rag under the muzzle to catch the drips.
I had used it in the past, but gave up on it because it's so messy. Your way sounds like it may work without so much mess to clean up. I've have to give it another try.
DF
The way to avoid the mess with Wipeout is wrap the straw with masking tape to about the neck dia of the chamber, insert the straw into the chamber, give it a half second burst, let it foam for a bit, another half second burst and wait until it stops foaming before removing the straw. If you use short bursts and wait for it stop foaming up you'll reduce the excess that foams out the muzzle or back into the action.
Then set the rifle with the muzzle pointing slightly down to avoid having it run back into the action. I use a cardboard box with V cut-outs and rag under the muzzle to catch the drips.
It also helps to open the floorplate, drop everything down, and insert a paper towel into the magazine well.
I switched from the foam "WipeOut" to the liquid "PatchOut", the same stuff but less messy to use.
Both are great from removing copper
Same here. Same reason. I run two wet patches in the bore and let it sit for most of the day. Then run clean patches until dry.
Just use the applicator spout with WipeOut. No mess at all, couldn't be easier.
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=237658
Comparisons to the gunslick version?
I've been using it since it first came out and after spraying it through muzzle the first time and getting some into the action, I knew I had to find a better way. I found some clear vinyl tubing that just fits the nozzle and is a tight slip fit into the throat of 30 cal rifles. When inserted into the throat/chamber through the loading port, a piece about 10" long works great and keeps the foam out of the action, etc. For those cartridges smaller than 30 cal, the tube simply jams up against the shoulder and seals off the chamber. Works like a champ.
I use Shooter's Choice (SC) first to get rid of most of the powder fouling. I run a couple of patches wet with SC though the barrel, let it sit for a few minutes; then another wet patch followed by a bore brush wet with SC for 10-20 strokes. Two or three dry patches to dry it out followed by the Wipeout. I usually let it sit overnight. If I get major "color" out of the barrel after the first application, it gets another dose usually with the rifle upside down to ensure the top of the barrel stays wet with solution (make sure bore is sloped slightly downhill toward the muzzle to keep it out of the action). I like the way it works so much, I always make sure I have a spare can on hand. The last few times I've ordered it, a plastic straw has been included which is probably intended to do the same thing as my vinyl tube. As someone else has mentioned (and I've read but have no first hand experience) it can attack some oil-type stock finishes but I have gotten it on some of the urethane type finishes with no adverse effects (Rem 700,Wby MK V, etc.). I'm REALLY careful in using it in my military rifles normally using it only when they're fully disassembled.
__________
NRA Life,Endowment,Patron or Benefactor since '72.
Comparisons to the gunslick version?
I have found the WipeOut to be more aggressive.
Bingo. I never unerstood people's complaints about the mess. Just use one of these, and there is absolutely no mess to speak of.
Rest the gun in a vise with the action open and muzzle slightly down. Put an 8" piece of rubber surgical tube on the Wipeout nozzle and stick the other end into the breech. Hold it tight to the breech, it will seal somewhere in the forcing cone, and give about a healthy 1 second burst. Hold the tube until the Wipeout stops expanding out of the muzzle then remove the tube. This method keeps the stuff out of the action and cuts down on waste.
I use Patch-Out along with the Accelerater...I generally like it, but be aware its says that it contains a rust inhibitor and that there is no need to oil after cleaning...I tried this approach and had constant problems with rust on my SS Howa...Once I started oiling again, problem solved..
Comparisons to the gunslick version?
Out of curiosity I just ran some Wipe-Out in a barrel that had been cleaned with Gunslick a couple of months ago. No new powder or copper came out. However, I did notice a tiny bit of rust
Definitely need to run some CLP after the Gunslick. I think the Gunslick directions suggest that, my bad. I've never seen that with Wipe-Out.
I've used both WO and GunSlick quite a bit, and they're about the same IMO. WO may be ever-so-slightly more aggressive, but it's tough to say for sure.
I just tighten my rifle up in the vise, with a level barrel, pull the bolt and insert the bore guide, give the Wipe Out a 1 sec burst into the muzzle until the foam just starts to come out the bore guide, then release. Foam out the muzzle and just a bit out the bore guide.
Then patch it out after anywhere from 1 to 12 hours...
No mess, no fuss...
I remember reading something negative about the Wipe Out Accellerator. I had used it and didn't have a problem.
Does anyone have info on that?
DF
You can't leave it in the barrel for extended periods.
I use Patch-Out along with the Accelerater...I generally like it, but be aware its says that it contains a rust inhibitor and that there is no need to oil after cleaning...I tried this approach and had constant problems with rust on my SS Howa...Once I started oiling again, problem solved..
Pete the rust issues were due to the accelerator agent.
I've never used the foam Wipe Out, but I've heard lots of good things bout it. That being said, I've been using WipeOut's liquid Patch Out for several years now and I love it. I've never tried their accelerator, but I've had great luck just using the Patch Out. A local gun shop recommended it and I was as impressed as they told me I'd be. It's one of the products I have nothing bad to say about.
As someone else mentioned it is hard to find. The only place online I've found it is Midway, and then two local shops carry it. One of them which is the one I get it from sells it for $10 a bottle so it's cheaper than Midway since it's the same price and you don't pay shipping, and the other store wants like $17 and some change for a bottle. Other than that I've never seen it anywhere. However, if you can find somewhere that sells it, I'd recommend trying it.
I found it on cheaper than dirt and ordered both Patchout and wipeout. Should be here the first of next week. Thanks for the input.
Patch Out makes gun cleaning surprisingly, and fortunately, easy.
Almost doesn't seem fair. We were taught from childhood that hard sweat and tears would result in a great outcome.
Well, with Patch Out, we get the great outcome easily.
Who knew?
Actually, it appears that a lot of those at the Fire did.
Steve
Been using WipeOut for years; makes gun cleaning fast & efficient. Also use the Patch Out version on some guns where it is more convenient. Great stuff!
I'd hate to see some of you work on cars. How hard is it to squirt a little cleaner in the muzzle, and stuff a rag in action?
The can has a little funnel around the nozzle, put funnel against barrel, push down on button. Let soak, send patch down tube.
I'd hate to see some of you work on cars. How hard is it to squirt a little cleaner in the muzzle, and stuff a rag in action?
The can has a little funnel around the nozzle, put funnel against barrel, push down on button. Let soak, send patch down tube.
Heck, we even have a member who has trouble opening a box of bullets...
John
After migrating through Butch's Bore Shine and Sweet's i went to Wipe Out exclusively until Patch Out came out.
Now if I'm doing a lot of shooting at the range I'll use Patch Out there periodically.
At home I use Patch Out unless I'm particularly concerned about copper build up, then I'll put in Wipe Out for an hour, run a couple of patches and then put another application of Wipe Out in overnight. As one poster mentioned, the foam does eventually turn to liquid so turning it makes sense.
Don't use WipeOut but basically use the same idea. The past couple of months I've been soaking the bore with Montana Extreme or Montana Copper Killer - I mean really soaking.
I make a plug out of a cut up square from a plastic grocery bag over a folded patch and tamp that into place in the chamber. Three full squirts from an eye dropper down the muzzle - no mess or overspray that way - and then cover the muzzle with a double folded square of the same plastic from a grocery bag held in place by a rubber band.
Turn the barrel up and down a few times to thoroughly cover it and let it sit horizontally for a few hours to overnight - on one side or the other or in a cradle right side up or upside down. Maybe I'll tip it up and down a couple times and turn it 90 degrees every two or three hours to recover the entire surface of the bore.
A few hours later or even the next night, remove the muzzle cover, tip the bore over a garbage can and watch a stream of dark blue liquid run out (if the bore is copper fouled). Tap out the plug from the muzzle, then run three or four tight dry patches through. Another patch of oil and you're done.
Basically the same technique Mule Deer says he does, I just decided to up the dosage of cleaner.
The initial process takes less time than it does to read this post. The plugs are cheap, easy to make and don't allow anything into the action. I used to use the same three eye droppers of cleaner on three patches to wet the bore and then it dawned on me that most of the cleaner was staying on the patch and thus was wasted. This way I get the maximum reactant in contact with the bore and it really makes a difference.
PS - I've also Dyna Bore Coated most all of my rifle bores and after a couple or three cleaning cycles you can see that makes a heck of a big difference in how much copper you have to clean out.
I'm using Gunslicks version of wipe-out. To make the simple process of applying it even tidier, I inserted a short piece of 1/4" vinyl tubing like that used on aquarium air pumps into the tubing that came with the cleaner. I stand my guns muzzle down on a rag, insert the extended tube down into the chamber as far as it will go and give it a squirt or 2 until I notice it seeping from the muzzle end. Then I'll back the tubing out of the barrel/chamber and look to see if the chamber area full of the foam, it not, it gets a short squirt of the foam too. Leave the action open, gun resting muzzle down and go do something else for a while. No fuss, very little mess.
Jim,
Your gun cleaning technique sounds good. I'm going to give it a try.
+1 on the Dyna Tek process. I wonder how that compares to the Moly treatments of the past. I never got into Moly, thinking it was too messy. The Bore Coat isn't messy at all and IMHO, it really is effective.
DF
Hope it works as well for you. If the bore is really copper fouled it might take a couple of soakings to get it all out, and a nylon brush for a mechanical �urging� doesn�t hurt either. But with the Dyna bore coat the copper fouling is so light that one soak gets out 99% or it � or at least as far as I can tell from looking in the bore and running another wet patch of copper killer through that comes out with no blue on it.
I only do this with the Montana products since MD reports they can be left in the bore for long periods without harm. Sweet�s 7.62 warns that it should only be left in for 15 minutes max. I don�t know about Barnes CR-10 or any of the other aggressive copper solvents but I�d make sure they are okay before doing this.
Actually, the DBC is what got me started. You have to clean to bare metal and I got real tired of multiple patches of JB bore compound followed by copper solvent followed by JB followed by...etc. After doing that to the first one and then looking at a bunch more rifles to coat I thought there must be a better way, so I tried the overnight soaking and that got all of the copper out without the laborious scrubbing.
Don't let CR-10 sit. If you use it, do so outside on a day when there is a steady 20 MPH wind blowing away from the house.
I think BoreTech Eliminator can be left in. It does a good job with copper and with carbon build up, which in some ways is as bad, if not worse. How good are the Montana products with carbon?
DF
After Wipeout, I follow up with Hoppes Benchrest #9. This removes all traces of Wipeout in the bore. Never had a rust problem.
Most all products with ammonia advise to not let sit in the barrel for extended periods of time. Montana Xtreme products are the exception (I believe) due to being oil based. The ammonia safely evaporates leaving the oil behind.
If you plug up both the chamber and the muzzle, would this keep the ammonia from evaporating? If so, would the M.X. products be just as hazardous to a barrel as CR-10 or Sweets when used like that?
Just wondering...
I'd be interested to hear. So far I haven't seen any ill effects and most certainly no rust.
Back in the day, shooters would plug the bores of their 1903 Springfields, fill the barrel to the muzzle with pretty strong ammonia and let sit overnight. I haven't read of any special problems that caused.
I had a mini mauser in 223 that I loaned to a friend for several years. He used sweets on the barrel and did not neutralize it after cleaning. That barrel had etching all thru it and that is the only thing I could think of that could have caused it.
Dirtfarmer mentioned carbon as being about as bad as coppering a barrel. Have two PacNor barrels, one 223 and the other 20 TAC. I use Benchmark in the 223 and 2200 in the TAC. Both barrels seem to sluff off the copper well, but the carbon builds up to where accuracy tails off at about 30-35 rounds. I use Brake Cleaner in the spray can and with a little brushing it comes out and accuracy is back. Even my 204 in 700 Remington carbons after 50 rounds, but has little copper deposits. That is at least I cannot seem to get much out and the accuracy is dynamite. So I cannot have too much coppering.
Fred, what effect did the etching have on accuracy or fouling? Thanks.
It took the accuracy level down from 1/2" gun to about an inch. Matter of fact, I don't remember anything about the fouling on the gun. I like a gun that will shoot at least 1/2" groups. But, the barrel did look rather rough inside, thus the increase in group size or so I think.
I did not mess with it any more to check fouling, I just had it rebarreled to a 20 TAC.
Been using Wipe Out since it first came out. Only complaint it does not remove all the carbon. A friend brought over his bore scope and we took a look through the bore scope after using wipe out. No copper but still minor carbon build up in the throat. He use his secret forumala and after about 15 minutes only a trace of carbon. He says you need to leave a small trace of carbon for the imprefections in the barrel. Barrel was a Brux 6.5x284. As far as his secret formula, he going to market it sometime in the furture I think.
Although I am not an expert in diagnosing what causes groups to start opening up, I will share what I have found. My 20 Tac and two 223's seem to carbon up and the groups start opening after 30-35 rounds. I read on Sniper Hide, that those shooters felt carbon was usually the first sign of groups getting larger. In fact, some of them think it is worse than copper.
Anyway, I find if I use Brake Cleaner after about 20-30 rounds I can hold my group size by removing the carbon. I have found on my Remington 204, PacNor barreled 20 tac and 223's do not need to be treated for copper until I have 100-150 rounds thru them. After reading some of the horror stories about coppering, I feel fortunate. I am curious if some of you have like experiences similar.
Although I am not an expert in diagnosing what causes groups to start opening up, I will share what I have found. My 20 Tac and two 223's seem to carbon up and the groups start opening after 30-35 rounds. I read on Sniper Hide, that those shooters felt carbon was usually the first sign of groups getting larger. In fact, some of them think it is worse than copper.
Anyway, I find if I use Brake Cleaner after about 20-30 rounds I can hold my group size by removing the carbon. I have found on my Remington 204, PacNor barreled 20 tac and 223's do not need to be treated for copper until I have 100-150 rounds thru them. After reading some of the horror stories about coppering, I feel fortunate. I am curious if some of you have like experiences similar.
Fred,
I tried brake cleaner on a patch and it didn't seem to move much carbon, the patch was white and the Hawkeye showed about the same amount of carbon. How do you use it?
I don't have an easy solution to carbon, just a lot of work with a brush, a solvent like BoreTech Eliminator and JB bore paste. Slip 2000 was said to be great on carbon, but I'm not that impressed with it. To me it's not hard to remove copper fouling. Carbon can be another matter.
I need some good tips.
DF
MPro7 works well on carbon...
Throttle body cleaner or brake cleaner also work well, since they were designed to do exactly that- dissolve carbon.
I could use some as well. I have more or less given up on the mythical "completely clean patch" and have moved on in search of unicorns.
I use Pro Series from Gunk. My shooting buddy said he did not have good luck with Brake Cleaner,(he used a different brand) but my results have been great. I use a little tube in the aerosol can and spray it into the barrel, covering the muzzle end with a rag. I let it set a few minutes and then brush the heck out of it. I then run a couple of patches thru the barrel. The first will just come out black and the next is pretty clean. If I repeat the process, I cannot get any more black patches, in fact they look clean but wet.
I am very confident that I am getting it cleaned out, as my accuracy just comes right back. There may be a difference in brands, but I know this really works for me. One point, I do not use it sparingly.
Keep in mind, I am shooting 204 and 224 calibers mainly and they tend to carbon pretty bad. Even with Benchmark, which is considered a clean powder still leaves a lot of carbon.
Jim in Idaho
I think your method of leaving the carbon remover in overnight with the barrel plugged, lets the liquid work on the carbon. I suspicion, that applying any carbon cleaner with a patch just does not get the carbon saturated. In order for it to be removed easily, it needs to be loosened and/or dissolved.
Here is a good one for you. My shooting partner was shooting his 22-250 and had a cartridge that did not want to chamber. He tried another and the same results. Come to find out, he had a sliver of carbon come loose and lodge in the chamber. He found it when cleaning the gun.
If you want to get serious with carbon, spray a commercial oven cleaner out of a pump spray bottle from the chamber end. Do NOT get it on the stock. Let it sit for 5 minutes and the problem is gone. Hit it with a brush and then clean patches. Follow up with other cleaners to remove the oven cleaner. Guaranteed to work.
i now use boretech eliminator. seem to work better on copper than the wipe-out for me. then i use boretech's c4 carbon remover. that seems to work as well as anything including wipe-outs carbon remover, and has a nice smell.
yukon,
I, too, like BoreTech Eliminator and use it as my first line cleaner. I have never tried their C4 carbon remover.
Fred,
Sounds like that would work. Leaving it in may be the secret. The white patch tells nothing. I use a Hawkeye borescope which tells everything. Hopefully the Dyne Tek bore coat will solve some of the problem, especially with copper. Carbon isn't talked about as much, but IMHO, is just as important, maybe more so.
Woodstalker,
Are you concerned about those products damaging the bore, or being corrosive? I don't know that they are, but don't know that they aren't.
Thanks guys for that info. Exactly what I was looking for.
DF
Dirtfarmer
I'm not sure that removing every bit of carbon or copper is necessary. On my guns, I have used the same cleaning method since they were new. I think that a gun that has been neglected or improper cleaning leads to layer after layer of carbon/copper. In those cases, the stuff I use might not work well. YOu can certainly be a better judge of whether something is clean or not with the borescope. Wish I had access to one.
Fred,
The Borescope is great, but I wonder if I'm over reading what it's showing me. Some carbon staining ahead of the chamber isn't the same as carbon build up. I may be wanting the bore to look perfect and that may not be pratical.
The carbon build up I've seen looks like a black top road. Those are the ones that take so much work to take down to bare metal. When I get a new barrel and break it in right, that just doesn't happen.
Using a borescope and just looking at patches is the difference between daylight and dark. Those patches often lie...
DF
DF, I think you are correct about over thinking "clean". I have to assume that all barrels, including the good after market ones,have microscopic tool marks or worst. It may be a bad idea to judge clean with clean enough. After all, I think most of us are more concerned about accuracy than if the barrel is spotless. But to each his own when it comes to standards.
Fred,
Some factory barrels have a bunch of tool marks and shoot surprisingly good. My Krieger, Broughton, Hart, HS Precision, PacNor and such have beautiful machine work with no visible tool marks. And for what they cost, that's about right. And, of course they shoot.
But, you're right. You can't always judge how a barrel shoots by how it look. I've seen some pretty rough looking old Springfield barrels shoot great. Quoting Forest Gump, "Pretty is a pretty does."
DF
Allan,
Those look good and I've always liked Sinclair products. Brownell's now owns them, FWIW.
IMHO, Lucas Bore Guides are hard to beat. They are made for the specific action and correspond to a rod guide that snaps into the bore guide. The rod guide is specific for the rod being used. All together it's an elegant set up.
DF
I have more or less given up on the mythical "completely clean patch" and have moved on in search of unicorns.
Did you build a custom rifle for this quest?
After Wipeout, I follow up with Hoppes Benchrest #9. This removes all traces of Wipeout in the bore. Never had a rust problem.
WipeOut is great stuff. Hoppe's #9 is the magic elixir.
The way to avoid the mess with Wipeout is wrap the straw with masking tape to about the neck dia of the chamber, insert the straw into the chamber, give it a half second burst, let it foam for a bit, another half second burst and wait until it stops foaming before removing the straw. If you use short bursts and wait for it stop foaming up you'll reduce the excess that foams out the muzzle or back into the action.
Then set the rifle with the muzzle pointing slightly down to avoid having it run back into the action. I use a cardboard box with V cut-outs and rag under the muzzle to catch the drips.
It also helps to open the floorplate, drop everything down, and insert a paper towel into the magazine well.
THIS!
I had one bad experience with Wipe Out in that one of my cans was not pressurized. I called the "home office" and the gentleman that answered was the head dawg and was as nice a guy as you want to meet...very attentive to my problem and took care of the issue pronto. Kudos to that gentleman! In the process he made sure to also provide me with a couple of applicator spouts and they made all the difference in the world. Great product and I no longer let it sit a couple of hours. I schedule things where I let it work all night long and it usually takes care of business the first times except in stubborn cases like my Sakos, which are like copper mines. Great stuff and great people to deal with. A+++++
like others have said, works great on copper, but does nothing on carbon.
Yup, thought it was the Schnitz until I relied on it exclusively and built up carbon rings in a couple of my favorite rifles. Accuracy went to crap and removing baked in carbon rings is not an easy task.
Not at all impressed with it personally. But then I'm guilty of using what has always worked fine.
I use Patch Out. I put my rifle in a rifle vise. I let the PO soak over night. Run a clean patch through. First day patch pushes out liquid the color of ink. Repeat several days till clean. Then I push a patch with Hoppes 9 and leave wet. Hasbeen
Pro Shot in the field, Wipe Out in the evening. blue patch says you got the copper.
I follow with GM top engine Cleaner for the carbon, 2- 3 soak and brush applications and the patches come out black.
If you can find the GM stuff you are lucky. they dropped it when throttle bodies came out, but Vette guys and bench shooters love it.
your local parts guy can look in his computer for some.
HM
Kroil for carbon, WO for copper if I have lot's of time to let soak overnight. If I want to get it done and be done with it, Kroil followed by Bore Tech Elimnator.
I clean the powder fouling out first with some solvent and a few strokes of a bronze brush. I leave the bore guide in the chamber end and squirt the wipe out in through the muzzle & let it sit over night. A couple of patches in the morning and it's clean, the bore guide keeps the mess out of the action. That's usually only a once a year deal for most of my rifles. The ones I shoot a lot only get it once every 3-400 rounds.
Rest the gun in a vise with the action open and muzzle slightly down. Put an 8" piece of rubber surgical tube on the Wipeout nozzle and stick the other end into the breech. Hold it tight to the breech, it will seal somewhere in the forcing cone, and give about a healthy 1 second burst. Hold the tube until the Wipeout stops expanding out of the muzzle then remove the tube. This method keeps the stuff out of the action and cuts down on waste.
I use the same method.It works great and no mess.
