Hello

I have an unfired Ruger #1A 7x57 that I am going to set up for deer hunting. I remember reading a John Barsness write up on accurizing the #1s but can't seem to find it. What does a fellow look for on the forend as far as how it fits with the receiver.(pressure points??) Also, the top of the quarter rib is bearing on the receiver. Should I relieve this? I think I can use a sanding strip and gain a little clearance without removing the rib itself. Is this worth doing? Any other things to look for? Thanks for any and all help.

Look at the rear of the forend when you take it off. Any dark areas on the inletting indicate pressure on the front of the action. Use a small, fine file to take these off.

Often accuracy is helped by epoxy-bedding the front inch of the forend. This stabilizes the forend from wobbling back and forth with each shot.

If you can't see ANY space between the rear of the quarter-rib and the action, even if you hold the rifle up to a strong light, then relieving the rear of the rib usualy helps a lot. If you can fit a sanding strip between the rear of the rib and the action, that's plenty of clearance.

If it's a recently manufactured No.1, and not one of the ones throated long for 175's, you may be surprised to find that you won't have to do anything, but stuff ammo into the chamber! If it doesn't shoot well, then JB covered the bases pretty completely. A #1A 7x57 is about as good a do most everything rifle one could ask for. Enjoy it, and good luck....hope it's a shooter!

Jeff

Jeff, my Number One sure shoots good and I haven't done anything to it except clean it and shoot it. MOA or thereabouts, and took a bear, no problem, at 306 yards. I like.

I've got a PM in to the previous owner to learn if he did any accurizing to that rifle...

Mmmmm. Reply in already. That was QUICK!

.84" center to center, three shots, 100 yards, 260 gr bullets at 2620 fps mv, .375 H&H. Apparently it shot this well from the beginning, right from Ruger. Cool.

264Magnum - I'd shoot it first and see how it does before modifying it at all. Some of these danged Number One rifles are great. I had a .25-06 Number One that could put 100 gr Sierras in the .2's pretty regularly... Like an idiot I sold it.

I just stumbled onto this topic. I went and took my #1s out of the safe. 2 out of 3 have a gap between the 1/4 rib and the action. One has no gap.

Do I just unbolt the 1/4 rib and go to filing on the back end. How tight are the 4 screws on the rib? What to torque them to when I reinstall the rib?

Thanks for all the help guys. I just wanted to check any little "easy fix" type things before shooting it. The quarter rib on my rifle is bearing on the action at the top not the whole distance. That is with the rifle held up to a strong light. There is enough clearance at the bottom to get a sanding strip in and remedy this easily. I'm not crazy about trying to get that quarter rib off. I am going to install a Jard trigger and a Trops #1 safety. Should be a great little gun!!

Another, non-quick, fix is the set screw twixt the hanger and the barrel that assures both are in synch on vibrations post shot. It is adjustable with a tool through a small hole in the escutcheon and allows you 'tune' the rig to different bullets/loads. Six of my 36 #1s are so 'accurized' and it works.

There also is a gizmo from EA Brown that slides over the end of the hanger that does the sasme thing.

Both need some metalwork skills and tools.

Don't forget triggwer work to ge the most out of any #1.

1B

Thunderball,

The rib screws are on pretty tight, but not impossibly so. If you've got a interchangeable-bit screwdriver, it sometimes helps to insert the appropriate bit without the driver, and give it a couple of raps with a small hammer before attempting to loosen them.

I have no idea if there's any set amount of torque for the rib screws. It really shouldn't make any difference, as long as the rib stays on firmly.

I bought my Ruger #1 7x57 second hand and it did not shoot worth spit. I couldn't even seat 175 gr. bullets near the rifling. My gunsmith did a chamber cast and the throat was over 2.5" long. Well, I contacted Ruger and they said to send it in so I did and seven month later the rifle came back with the note stating the gun was accurate. Nothing about the bad throat. They did replace the barrel and now it's a decent shooter.
I'm going along with the suggestion to shoot the gun some first. Might be a good idea to see just what it can do before messing with it. I have a couple if Ruger #1's that are capable of .50" groups on a ssstady basis and others have/had to fight to do 2.0". Some still need tinkering with.
Paul B.

I did that trick and it seems to work. I also glass bedded the forearm to the hanger at the screw attachment lug, free floated the rest of the forearm. That way, the barrel is in no bind, expect for the set screw tension.

This is on an older .220 Swift with med heavy factory bbl. Gun shoots around 1/2" groups.

DF

One way I found of doing a neat job or relieving the back of the forend so it doesn't contact the receiver is to wrap some sandpaper around a twelve gauge shell. It fits about perfectly and relieves that area uniformly across. Doing that to mine was all it needed to shoot well, I've got it so a thin (.003) piece of paper just barely fits between the receiver and the end of the forend. The gap doesn't show at all.

And what, pray tell, do you know about # 1s?

has anyone seen this write up on No1 tweaks?

http://www.varminthuntinginternational.com/accurizingnoruger.html

cmg,

Not much for sure. I always end up eating crow when I say "never" or "always" about #1s. And the longer I'm around them, the worse it gets.

1B

Slightly off topic, but . . .

Anyone tried the Bell & Carlson Carbelite stock for the #1 yet? Impressions? I'm getting ready to order one up and my wood forend got busted up a while back.

(I'll ask on the SS Rifle forum also)

Here's how I do it,sand out any high spots and glass in a good pressure point at the end...
the forearm only contacts in two places,the tip bed and the flat where the screw comes thru

then you get this..my .303 with IMR4064 and Hornady 174 RN's

10-4 Buy the 175 Privi ammo and shoot it. 1" 5 shot groups will kill anything you want to use a 7x57 (aka 275 Rigby) on.

My 1B in 7mm STW was one of the ones which did not shoot particularly well from the factory. About two inches with most loads.

I free floated the for-end and bedded the hanger with Marine Tex. That got it down to about 1.5 inches. It finally made to .75 inches after I installed the Hick's accurizer.