I need your help again guys.

I'd like to get a 30-06 bolt action that incorporates the desirable design features of the Mauser bolt actions. Now, I'm not an expert on Mausers so forgive me I don't make sense!

What I want is bolt action where the safety locks the bolt (don't care if its 2-position or 3-position), CRF with claw, fixed ejector, and most importantly the gas baffles that people claim prevent gasses from hitting the shooter in the face.

I think the Winchester 70 and Ruger 77 come close, but not quite (no baffles on either, and the 77 safety is not my favorite).

How about the CZ bolt actions? Are they a good representation of the Mauser design?

One that I really like is the JC Higgins Belgian-made Mausers. These seem like great rifles for the money. I'd rather get one of these than a sporterized/bubba-ized Mauser, but maybe I am just uncomfortable about these since I don't know much about them. It can be overwhelming with all the variations, dates of manufacture, etc.

Open to suggestions. Wood stock or synthetic. Would like to spend $500-1000, but wouldn't be opposed to spending more for something special.

Thanks in advance,

Jason

Zastava might fit the bill, although the models with the side safety do not lock the bolt

The CZ's are true Mauser's in form and function, but several changes have been made to simplify manufacture and modernize the styling. The bolt shroud is a good example; it does not contain all the various complicated and difficult (read labor intensive) shapes - it is more streamlined.

The expensive route to get a Mauser is to buy a military Mauser and convert it. I've done it and unless you're willing to spend gobs of money, just buy a CZ or Zastavia.

As for stock, I'd go synthetic for weather resistance (check the CZ 550 Kevlar).

In .30-06 this is easy.

Go to Gunbroker.com, narrow your search to bolt action rifles, futher narrow your search to "Mauser .30-06".

Within a very short time you'll be the owner a custom Mauser. If it were me, I'd look for one that had at minimum a Buhler style-safety, quality barrel, and perhaps an inside-the-bow realease for the floorplate (though it wouldn't stop me from buying a nice one that didn't have that).

If you're patient, you'l find one with a model 70-style swing safety, though those don't show up as often, and when they do - tend to be on high end rifles.

You can get an adequte rifle for well under $500.00. With patience, your $1,000.00 budget will get you a really, really nice rifle.

All 98's can make great rifles, some actions are highly sought after, though they don't change what happens when you squeeze the trigger.

A gun like this?

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbth...autiful_FN_1951_Action_30_06#Post7455004

Dig up a Husqvarna 640, they were made on FN made Mauser actions.
Those JC Higgins ones were also made on FN actions.
Get either of those.

Zastava's suck, I never seen one that fed properly and they have milling marks all over them.
CZ550's are okay, but heavy big actions and often fail on the controlled round feeding. They are "sort of controlled round feeding". Tilt the barrel towards the ground and they will drop the cartridge.
The best made Mauser actions were the Swedish Mauser 96's. Pure class. But they are 96's not 98's.

The Zastava and CZ rifles do not have "fixed ejectors." They are spring loaded, as is the one on my Interarms Mark X. If you want a fixed ejector, get am M1903 "Springfield."

Ruger 77 is close enough for me. If the only thing you don't quite like is the safety, then I can't see how a military Mauser is going to be any better.

CarlsenHighway,

My experience with Zastava Mausers has been different than yours--or perhaps it has been wider. Many of the earlier actions (especially those with the floorplate release inside the trigger guard) were pretty damn nice, and some were just as nicely finished as any FN.

I would also differ on the CZ's. I have two 550's, one a 9.3x62 and one a .416 Rigby. It took a little work to make the .416 feed reliably (mostly a stiffer magazine spring), but the 9.3 has been dead relaiable since I bought it 11 years ago.

My experience with CRF actions in general is that many take some tuning to act right. I talk about this at length (and describe ways to fix it) in my latest book.

There are J.C. Higgins rifles made on Husqvarna small-ring 98 actions as well as FN actions.

One of the features many people don't realize that true 98 actions (whether military or commercial) have a bevel on the little ridge behind that holds the extractor in place on the bolt body. This ridge is there on every CRF action with a "Mauser-type" extractor, but only Mausers and CZ's include the bevel.

The bevel on the 98's extractor matches a bevel on the circumferential slot on the bolt. When the bolt is drawn back, the opposing bevels make the claw grab the cartridge's rim very firmly, one reason real Mauser actions have such a reputation for reliable extraction.

Most other claw extractor controlled-feed action do NOT include this bevel, which is why their extractors are more prone to jump over the rim of a stuck empty. The CRF actions that don;'t include the bevel include the M70 Winchester, Ruger Mark II/Hawkeye, Kimber and Montana 1999. The only other CRF action I know of that includes the bevel is the CZ 550.

What's the name of that one?

http://www.riflesandrecipes.com/ind...ry&layout=blog&id=2&Itemid=4

Mako25,

The name of the book is RIFLE TROUBLE-SHOOTING AND HANDLOADING, and can be ordered through riflesandrecipes.com.

What do you consider a "true mauser" There are many that have been based on 98s(I assume you are talking 98s) but have been modified somewhat.

How much of the original design must be incorperated to still be "true"

Do you want the thumb cut? Safety? stepped barrel? chamber demensions? How much mauser are you looking for?

You are probably right about different samples - I have had two CZ550's, and both were 'almost controlled round feeding'. In other words they worked fine, but were plainly not taking up the round from the mag, and were really 'half push feed", I could get them to fault if I wanted by working the action lazily while tilting the barrel down, and if I seated the bullets out, I would then have to find a thin twig to push the cartridge out of the chamber. This is not easy for a 6.5x55.

The two new production Zastava's were poorly finished I must say, and fed badly. A twenty year old Zastava in a Harrington and Richardson (which would have corresponded with an Interarms era rifle?) was very nicely finished indeed and a pretty rifle, but it wouldn't feed at all, no matter what was done to it, and I couldn't get it to shoot either. The only thing you could do with it that would give any satisfaction was look at it. I had paid too much for it really and it was during a lean period so it hurt me and I was very disappointed.

Understandably, after that, I have avoided them and held them in low regard; when they are mentioned I sneer quietly and spit, if I am not in polite company. I have not disowned friends who own them, but truthfully I don't see as much of them as I used to.

I've probably owned a dozen of the older Zastava rifles over the years, all made before the current rebirth of the company after the civil war that split up Yugoslavia. I have two right now, a 7mm Remington Magnum and a .375 H&H, and the others have run the gamut from .270 Winchester to .338 Winchester Magnum. All have functioned and shot well. Sorry for your bad luck!

I had a Zastava carbine with full lenth stock 30-06 and it was fantastic in fit and finish .I never shot it as I decided it was heavier than I wanted and sold it .

I think the best way to get a rifle with Mauser qualities is to buy a Mauser!!
Not trying to be a smart... but I am sincere in that recomendation.
Look around on the classifieds here and Gun Broker even pawn shops and you can find a rifle that you like and fits your budget.
The only bolt rifles I have anymore are Mausers with the exception of a CZ 527 Carbine 223(which by the way I like very much).
Also does it HAVE to be a 30-06?
Reason I ask is the 8x57 mauser is a fine catridge and especially if you reload this round can do anything practically in the hunting field that the 06 can do.
And there are quite a few 8x57 Mausers out there ,some in original condition where you would have to do a lot of expensive work to sporterize but also quite a few that have already had a lot of the expensive work done to them.Just a thought.


Craig

Yes, it's annoying. Another possible explanation is that we were not getting sent the same grade or quality of product that you guys are, which can happen.
(one example, I am convinced we were getting higher quality grades of the little Rossi Winchester 92 knockoff than what was being exported to the States for many years.)

Pm waiting for you on a nicely sporterized 03-a3 I have.

Springfields are similar enough to the 98 to have caused patent infringement liability before WWI for the US Gov.

shoot me a pic of that wouldya?

I have two FN commercial 98 mausers. One is a 30-06 made in '51 the other is a 7x57 made in '52. The barreled actions are stock except for Timney triggers. Both were bought used10-15 years ago. Both shoot 1.25" groups with several downloads. The 30-06 should be relatively easy to find for $600 or so, maybe less if you're lucky. capt david

Follow Mule Deers advice.....keep a look out for an FN Mauser imported in bunches in the '50s . Look for best buys J C Higgins or Husqvarna....more expensive would be complete FN rifles, or Sako import or even early Weatherby rifles built on FN actions.

I just sold one for a friend he for $425 that would be PERFECT!

Thanks for the info and suggestions so far. The info on the bevel is exactly why I posted the question! I don't know much about Mauser designs and this is something I never heard about.

Add the bevel to the list of features I want. Along with the gas baffles, although I don't know where they are located and why Winchester and Ruger omitted them! I want a true Mauser "action", and am not concerned with the stepped barrel.

I guess I should have asked, "What makes a Mauser so special, or super reliable and safe?" What is a true Mauser? I don't know, that's why I'm posting here! What I understand is that Paul Mauser took extra design precautions to protect the soliders. It seems that these features are desirable in a hunting rifle too, at least in theory.

I have looked at Zastavas for the past couple years but always pass on them since the safety doesn't lock the bolt. I think I read about people getting 3-position safeties from Gentry or some other gunsmith to make the safety lock the bolt.

I'd love to get a new rifle from the current Mauser plant, but I don't think this would fit the "low cost" objective.

An old 8x57 is something I never thought about! Thanks for the idea, I'll have to look into this.

Thanks guys. Feel free to add more if you're inclined, I appreciate your opinions on these rifles.

Jason

Jason,

I have a Western Field M720B in .30-'06: this is a true commercial Mauser built by EF Heym under contract in the early 60s.



Here is a paragraph from an article I wrote for the Standard Catalog of Firearms on what makes a Mauser.


"What makes a Rifle a Mauser?: There are three features that together characterize the M98 Mauser: magazine box, extractor and breeching.

The most important feature is the cartridge specific magazine box. The magazine box and the follower are both important; the magazine box itself is sized to stagger stack the particular cartridge (such as the 7X57 or 9.3X62); the followers are also designed for a non-critical fit within the box.

Second, the spring steel external extractor and bolt face allows for both controlled feed and extraction.

Third, the bolt nose has dual opposing lugs bolting in the front receiver ring, and also features an internal �C-ring� of steel integral to the front ring.

Military Mauser M98 actions have a thumb-cut in the left receiver wall to assist in loading cartridges from a stripper-clip, and the rear receiver ring is slotted to hold the clip. Commercial actions do without both of these."

jim

"One that I really like is the JC Higgins Belgian-made Mausers. These seem like great rifles for the money. I'd rather get one of these than a sporterized/bubba-ized Mauser, but maybe I am just uncomfortable about these since I don't know much about them. It can be overwhelming with all the variations, dates of manufacture, etc."

I have five rifles based on the J.C. Higgins M50 FN Mausers. The only change I would make on the action is replace the trigger with a Timney. Four are still in 30-06 and are just waiting the funds to be rebarreled in something else. One is now a 7x57 and is very accurate.
Higgins mausers as you know were made by FN, barrels were chrome lined and made by High Standard for Sears. I think the stocks came from either Fajen or Bishop but never did find out which. I have no qualms about using one to build a custom.
I have two commercial FN rifles, (non-Higgins)one now a custom 30-06 and trhe other a deluxe version in .270 Win.

"I guess I should have asked, "What makes a Mauser so special, or super reliable and safe?"

Probably the best answer I can give is Mauser developed the rifle for war. The M98 in my opinion was designed to be the most goof proof weapon of battle possible knowing many of the ssoldiers using is would be scare shiitless recruit in their first firefight. Guess that's why they can be made into such reliable hunting arms.

Another that I like has already been mentioned, the Husqvarna M640. I have one barreled action in 30-06 that I have special plans for. TYhe only stock factory action I've felt that was smoother in operation were the two 6.5 Mannlicher-DScoenaur carbines I once had. Some low life stole them from my truck in Elko Nevada.
If you can find a Higgins at a reasonable price, I wouldn't hesitate jumping on it. The ones I have that are still 30-06s are all nicely accurate. A commercial non-Higgins FN would be even better and probably the Husqvarna the choicest of he three.
I had two Zastavas and while they were accurate and I had no feed problems, they were just a bit rougher than I care for. other than that they were fairly nice rifles.
Paul B.

I hate you, PJ, robbing us of donor stock.
Jason, these guys are all giving you good advice. The commercial US import Mausers often run in your price range and show up sporadically at pawn shops and on consignment, even at gun shows.
I stole a Husqvarna 30.06 for only 250 at a pawn shop a couple years ago, the bonus was it had a really nice Redfield target peep which I robbed for another Mauser.
I honestly think the store-brand Mausers are vastly underrated. If you find one, it's almost certain to be a good rifle either as is, or in worst case with a modern custom barrel. Don't be bashful, if you spot one, don't worry about the brand name -- Higgins, Parker Hale, Field -- it's all good.

PJ.....same story here. I have 4 '06s, a .270, a 9.3x62, and a .300 WM that will be a .375 Ruger....5 FNs and 2 Huskys. I bought a FN action at a gun show, and my son is sitting on that. I also had a .270 Bee on an FN action, but traded that one off. I took Mule Deers advice years ago and snapped up what I could. I still keep my eyes open, you just never know what you'll find.

I agree, I've got a Walther barreled 6.5x57 built on a Mk10 action and a 7x64 built on a Santa Barbara, again with a Lothar Walther, and they are both very pleasant to use and both were economical builds.

I like the JC Higgins but hate to say it out loud because they're getting harder to find. I have 3 and they all shoot. I also have a colt model 57 and a NATO arms model 60 that are both similar but have 12 groove barrels. I like the Higgins crome lined bore better. The Higgins balance and shoot well and work just fine as is. I'm a stainless synthetic rem 700 guy but have a weakness for the Higgins.

Bb

Great info guys. Thanks again!

Carlsen,

I have owned 3 of the current run of Zastavas and still have one, which I have had two years. All 3 fed beautifully. Some of the machining inside the action was rough-ish, but smoothed up with use.

I found the trigger easy to adjust to a lovely clean light break.

My current is a do-all in 270. Yes they might be slightly agricultural, but crikey they are a very very good price for what you get.

I think the base action, trigger and mag assembly would be a fabulous platform for a nice custom.

Sorry if the safety issue doesn't quite match the OP's criteria. I never use my safety anyway so its never been in issue from my point of view. I don't close the bolt until I am ready to shoot, otherwise it is closed empty.

Kind regards.
- Bob

As an aside, where can a guy get a few stripper clips for an M98? I've got a Husky in 9.3x62 with the thumb cut and clip guide in the receiver and a couple or three stripper clips would be a dandy way to keep your ammo in your pocket without them rattling all over while still available to get into action fast. Tried some other clips a buddy gave me but they won't fit in the guide.

Thanks.

What about a Voere Cougar ???? I got one for $450 a few years back and i can't tell the difference between it and a commercial 98....

Nobody has mentioned the Browning Safari. You should be able to find a good one for $1000. Just watch out for the saltwood problem. If you buy 1965 and earlier, you're golden.

Jason, with all due respect, to you and the others posting here, you're doing yourself a dis-service if you don't glom onto a copy of "Bolt Action Rifles" by Frank De Haas.

http://www.amazon.com/Bolt-Action-Rifles-Expanded-Edition/dp/0873491688#_



That one book will educate you with words, pics & schematics exactly what the features of the various Mauser rifles are, and since most other BA rifles are included, you can make a direct comparison with just about any other make/type available, both milsurp & commercial - PLUS solid advice on various configurations, cartridge/caliber conversions, and other particular details.

A ready reference from a noted expert/researcher in the field is a good tool to keep at hand.


.

Two other books I've found essential to Mauser research are MAUSER BOLT RIFLES by Ludwig Olson, and THE BOLT ACTION RIFLE: A DESIGN ANALYSIS, by Stuart Otteson. The first volume of the Otteson book is enough to explain the basics, but you can get DVD's of both volumes from Amazon.

Another good one is Jerry Kuhnhausen's book on gunsmithing Mauser bolt actions (www.gunbooks.com).

This topic has certainly advanced my Mauser education.

Can anyone comment if a J.C. Higgins M50 FN Mauser would have been drilled and tapped from the factory for scope mounts or receiver sights?

Mine was drilled and tapped for both scope mounts and receiver sight. Just replaced the trigger, bedded the action and added a Buehler safety and it was good to go.

Thank you Ward