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I have a barrel that I would like to shorten for a project. I don't have a lot of power tools. What is the best way to go about it. powdr

How about an electric hacksaw.

Shotgun barrel or rifle ?

Happy Easter to ya.
Originally Posted by powdr
I have a barrel that I would like to shorten for a project. I don't have a lot of power tools. What is the best way to go about it. powdr

Hacksaw, file, and a chamfer tool....
Rifle barrel. What kind of blade for the hack saw? powdr
I use a tube cutter to score a witness mark straight around the barrel to try and follow.

Can't help you on the blade, it was what was in it. They're pretty easy to cut.
Originally Posted by aalf
Originally Posted by powdr
I have a barrel that I would like to shorten for a project. I don't have a lot of power tools. What is the best way to go about it. powdr

Hacksaw, file, and a chamfer tool....
Based on one barrel bob, a hacksaw worked. The 'smith did the rest.
A very careful, concentric hacksaw cutting with crown hand tools works pretty well. I'd go with a lathe, but sometimes that's not feasible.

See link: http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/7722726/4

DF

I've done dozens with the method aalf describes: "Hacksaw, file, and a chamfer tool...." So far all have shot at least as well, and often better, than they did before.
Thanks guys. powdr
John is absolutely right, I haven't done dozens but several, I've found the Wilson inside chamfering tool is superior to other brands-Muddy
What's the proper "how-to" for using the chamber cutter to get a nice crown?

[twirl it, twist it, flush, sideways, etc?]
Carefully turn evenly-M
I use a hack saw, square it all up checking by eye at arm's length, polish with emery cloth backed by a file, and crown with valve grinding compound and oil on a large round head brass screw on a small electric hand drill.

Be sure to stuff the barrel with some paper towel or kleenex at the cutoff point to keep the bore clean for the entire process.

Ted
Originally Posted by Yukoner
I use a hack saw, square it all up checking by eye at arm's length, polish with emery cloth backed by a file, and crown with valve grinding compound and oil on a large round head brass screw on a small electric hand drill.

Be sure to stuff the barrel with some paper towel or kleenex at the cutoff point to keep the bore clean for the entire process.

Ted


What he said. I've only done two Mausers this way, but both shot very well indeed after the process. Just take your time and be careful. I did use a square to help with the filing. Since the barrel is tapered, you have to use a little Kentucky windage, but working toward getting the same 'gap' as you move the square around the barrel was easier to me than holding the barrel at arm's length to check.
A cutoff wheel on a grinder works well for cutting off Barrels. Brass screw and valve grinding compound makes a nice Crown.
I scribe the cut with a pipe cutter, then follow the scribed line with a hacksaw.

The rest is as above.
Thanks guys, in all my years of fooling w/guns I've never cut a barrel off. powdr
I taped the barrel, then drew the cut line, using a "T" square. The square was set for the length I wanted to remove and using it as a gauge, I drew the cut line. I then used a padded vice, rotating the barrel with the cut until I had a 360* cutting groove. When the cut meets up exactly with the starting cut, you know it's perfectly concentric. I then finish the cut and use Brownell hand cutting tools for a 11* tapered crown.

May not be the "best" method, but it sure works. I think a lathe is the "best", but not always feasible.

DF
Don't know if lathe is best. The second most accurate rifle I've ever owned was crowned with a Brownells hand tool.
John,

You're probably right. The Husky project I posted earlier turned out great. I don't see how that rifle with factory barrel could shoot any better, regardless how the cut and crown were executed.

DF
I'm not picturing exactly what kind of brass screw we're talking about???
[Linked Image]

Philips head screw might be better but this gives you an idea. Just be sure it's a round head screw.
Thank you!
Originally Posted by Snake River Marksman
[Linked Image]

Philips head screw might be better but this gives you an idea. Just be sure it's a round head screw.


I think the slot head works as well as it does because the compound seems to migrate out of the slot as it turns.

Either way, it works very well.
Ted
Absent a lathe, if you can swing it the Manson crowning tool works really well.
Originally Posted by Snake River Marksman
[Linked Image]

Philips head screw might be better but this gives you an idea. Just be sure it's a round head screw.


For .308 and .357, a 1/4"-20 brass round head machine screw works.
I have counterbored beat up muzzles with a reamer .50 to .100 bigger than the groove diameter and up to .750 deep with very good results.
Done what Aalf n Mule Deer has done, worked great, later had a smith clean up for cosmetic reasons. When you cannot be happy with a barrel that is too long for your purpose, you will wonder what took you so long to shorten it.

Likewise, if you suspect or KNOW your crown is bad, cleaning up with a chamfer tool and/or the brass screw method can do alot of good.

What Yukoner said, is what I did, plug the bore near muzzle end to keep debris out the bore. Cleaning patch can work, push thru when done, and a few more from chamber end only.
It seems to me that I read on the 'Fire that anyone who would shorten a barrel without a lathe was a Bubba, who probably didn't have two teeth to rub together! grin I have cut off several and crowned them using a brass screw; they never seemed to suffer from the "Bubba" treatment.
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