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When building a reloading bench, what is the optimum overhang of the plywood bench top over the bench frame ?

Want the reloading press front mounting bolts to be in front of the bench frame and the rear mounting bolts behind the bench frame. Do not want to have to notch the bench top to get free movement of the reloading press handle. Assume the front press mounting bolts will run through a piece of angle iron under the plywood top. Likewise the press's rear mounting bolts.

Your thoughts...

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My thought is to use two layers of 3/4 inch plywood flush with the front of the frame. Use lag screws for the front screws for the front going into the frame and bolts for the rear going through the plywood.

Skid row gives great advice. Only thing I'd add is to use the largest diameter washers you can find for the underside of the rear bolts.

I work for a manufacturing company, so have access to various materials. I made a plate out of 3/8" steel that bolts firmly to the bench top. A second plate is welded vertically, that bolts to the face of the bench (gusseted on both sides). The vertical plate is located about 3-4" back from the front edge of the horizontal plate to allow full handle movement. Coupled with a pretty stout bench, I experience no flex what-so-ever.

Kaiser Norton

Mine is built from the plans distributed by the National Reloading Manufacturers Association. The bench top is 3/4" cabinet grade plywood. The front edge is flush with a 2x6 that is underlain by the frame, also of 2x6s. The overlap is 2 1/2" from the front 2x6 frame member. Both of my presses, the powder measure and the case prep center are mounted on bases of 3/4" plywood:



The bench top has four sets of these mounting holes along its width: the front holes are in front of the frame and the rear holes are behind it:



I can move things up and down the bench as needed to reduce the amount of moving around needed to do various tasks, or I can have the top clean for working on firearms. Another shot of the other press mounted:

Horse, I put a vertical 4x4 post directly under my Rockchucker, it doesn't matter how hard I have to jump up and down on the handle.-Muddy

Mine has 2 inches of overhang, can clamp items to work on them easier if needed. My RCBS press is mounted on a Dillion strong base with a plate I made up.

You don't really require an overhang.

Here's mine under construction about 14 years ago:



And one mount with press showing detail:



One press, the Forster, mounted on the bench, the other 'blank' to the left you can tell by the difference in facing. I have 6 presses, almost instantly interchangeable. I made extra mounts as blanks to use the bench without presses, and mounted the other tools, like case trimmers, etc., on the blank mounts. I used aluminum for the press mounts believe they would handle the torque better but as it turned out, not necessary. I'd use MDF for the press mounts if I did it again. They've been in use over 10 years for thousands of reloads and the mounts are still very tight and require lubrication to slide in and out. There truly isn't much torque transmitted to the top. And the only overhang is the 1X3 facing on the top.

Yup !!! Solid foundation when levering downwards.

Mine is similar but doesn't work with Lee Classic Cast i use for large nitro express cartridges as holes are too close to the front edge, had to add another piece of timber on top with some overhang. Will replace the Lee with an RCBS Big Max when i can find one, bit more room and easier to do case reaming etc.

I like being able to slide in and out pre-mounted presses, trimmers etc.

Cheers, Chris

Bob333. What lubricant do you use on the tenons?

Some of mine are very tight!

Cheers, Chris

Maybe you have tenonitis.


(Try a bar of soap from a hotel.)

Thanks..

Floor wax.

Even better.

Thanks Bob338

Cheers, Chris