I just got a New Remington Long Range rifle in 7mm Mag.
I am interested in hearing which might be the better oil to keep the bore lightly coated with for protection against rust.
Both for when in storage and when hunting in humid conditions.
I have read that Corrosion X is very good
i haved used Break free CLP and thought it pretty good but now I read that it has Teflon in it therefore that it will not allow the best accuracy.

I want something that will protect the bore,wont throw flyers for the first few shots.
Even though the rifles is stainless I still want to take the best care of it I can especially the bore.

I don't think that can be guaranteed for any oil.

I'd forget about oil and treat with Dyna-Bore Coat and just keep shooting. Clean it once in a while. When I want to use an oil or clean my rifles, I use KG products.

Any oil I"ve ever used will toss the first shot or two or three.

Even switching to different ammo, different powders or bullet jackets in a string will or can do the same thing.

Whatever you do, its best to shoot a couple shots first, and if not, then run dry patches for sure before shooting.

I never worry about rust in the tube much. I have almost all my bores coated as notead above, no issues

I don't know if it's "the best" but this has always worked well for me:

https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/Cleaning-and-Maintenance/Barricade%C2%AE-Rust-Protection.aspx

For some reason the link doesn't work, it's Birchwood Casey Barricade, also called SHeath.

Another vote for Dyna Bore Coat, which isn't an oil. Instead it leaves a permanent, very thin layer of silica (glass) in the bore, which not only protects it from rusting but vastly reduces fouling. There's no reason to use any oil, so no reason for first-shot fliers. In fact you don't even have to clean the bore before storing the rifle.

The Dyna Bore Coat sounds good.
Will the Dyna Bore Coat take any potential accuracy from the bore?


IF not I will order some.
In a new bore ,do I just clean the barrel out with solvent then apply?

No, DBC does not affect accuracy. Sometimes it even helps it somewhat, since fouling is reduced.

Alright ,sounds good
How would you apply it to a new bore John?

Craig

Not JB, but have used his advice on DBC. Just follow the directions that come with the product, that should be all you need. So far, I've treated about 15 rifles, a couple of muzzle loaders and 4-5 handguns, and it works great!

Yep, follow directions, get the cleanest bore you can, JB compound and both carbon and copper solvents, and once its clean, apply and shoot. But follow the time lines.

ON stubborn guns you may have to treat the bore after a year of shooting again, but Doug is always around to walk you through more stubborn(read rough typically) bores.

I"ve left BLACKPOWDER in my treated MZ guns after FIRING them a few times, reload with black, and keep it that way for over a year, no isuses.

I have one test tube somewhere that was fired with real blackpowder probalby close to 10 years ago and never cleaned. Last I looked maybe last fall, it still had not developed rust.

IF you know anything about black powder, the real stuff, you'll know what this means.

Thanks everyone,I will be ordering some this week.

Craig

Corrosion X gets my vote hands down, over 15 years using it! very best winpoor

Can DBC be applied to a brand new barrel or should it be shot a little bit (break in) first?

Either one.

YEP, even tho some don't believe that.

Of course, let's keep in mind that what some of us consider "flyers" wouldn't make a whit's difference to some, for some purposes.

25-30 years ago, I had a gunsmith recommend Sheath/Barricade over the commonly available oils as superior corrosion protection. I've been using it ever since and have never had rust issues. There's likely as good or better products out there but I've never seen any reason to change. One thing I like is it's thin, goes on wet and evaporates so doesn't leave a wet film to collect crud.

Iron bender, I have treated 6 new bores with DBC with excellent results. Just keep in mind that new doesn't mean it's clean. Starting with a clean bore is the key.

Randy

I'm at the very start of my relationship with Dyna Bore Coat, so I cannot comment how it works. What I CAN tell you is that the deep-cleaning regimen, done right, will assuredly build up your upper body strength. 100 passes per rifle with a tight patch is quite a bit, but I would say that it is probably going to be worth it.

I have a new Ruger Hawkeye that was the original impetus for the DBC. I've done several since. Just with the practice rounds, baking in the Hawkeye, I shot my best 100 yard group ever.

For those using BC Sheath, I would recommend stepping up to Eezox. I was using Sheath for 20 years and had the drains back up. I got all the firearms out of the basement, but it left the house humid. I had a battle with rust for the next year or so. Eezox performed much better than Sheath. YMMV.

Had anyone had a problem with not getting a barrel clean enough when applying DBC? If so, how did you come to realize that the barrel had not been clean enough?

Also, is Rusty Duck still made? Thanks, John

If you follow the directions, it'll be clean enough. They're pretty rigorous.

+1 on DBC.

I've used it on new, premium barrels and barrels with some roughness. It really works. With my premium barrels, there is very little fouling. I can shoot a bunch and pass a patch or two of Eliminator and the bore looks perfect. On the rougher barrels, they foul a lot less and are easier to clean than pre-DBC. I'm a believer.

I do use a Hawkeye borescope, so I know clean when I see it.

DF

I do not know clean when I see it. I have spent many years searching for the elusive "completely clean patch". In all seriousness, is there any point in my attempting to DBC my rifles?

On another tack, what has applying DBC done to affect accuracy? I think about how a few fouling shots are often necessary after cleaning a barrel to get accuracy to settle back down. What effect does having a barrel that hardly fouls have on that? Again, serious question. Thanks for sharing experiences.

i have also heard good things about Corrosion X.
Doesn,t Phil Shoemaker use this ?
Maybe he will jump in and tell us how well it works.

Yes.

None.

Accuracy intervals are longer between cleanings.

The great benefit of stainless is that all a stainless barrel needs is to be shot frequently...rust is not much of an issue; but you can oil the bore with anything you like as long as you make great effort to remove every trace of any oil before firing.

Stainless doesn't really need oil or anything else, and if your a fan of hBn it only needs to be cleaned... hardly never...

I like dbc, on CM, but dbc won't add much to an already optimized situation, but you may see some small benefit that you may like.

I prefer to treat all my bores with copper or lead.

TopCat,

Stainless barrel steel can rust, in fact in certain climates and conditions it definitely will. He lives in eastern Arkansas, one of the places where it could.

Yes indeed, any clime where 'HUMIDITY' is ever present, we must do our best to prevent rust, even in SS.

One of the 'perks' of living in the South or coastal areas is NEEDING to oil or something a CLEANED rifle bore. Therefore the need for a couple of fouling shots of a clean bore.

On another site a guy tested a pile of well known oils. He had access to a bunch of brake hubs. I don't think you could name an oil he didn't test.
When it was done the hands down winner was a wd40 product w/a long term insignia....I think it was "wd40 ltdi". This is not your normal wd40.
It waxed up on kroil, birchwood Casey, clp, esox, and other well worshipped products....many of which I use.
I don't have trouble where I live...so the others work for me....but if I were in a different area and needed it...that would be my choice. If seen it at Wm and it usnt cheap but the difference wasnt even close w/other products.

I have seen the test as well. The label of the product reads:
WD-40
SPECIALIST
LONG-TERM
CORROSION
INHIBITOR
I have picked up a 6.5 OZ can at WalMart for about 5-6 bucks.

Per usual for the Campfire, after the first page or two almost everybody jumps right in and casts their vote, without reading the rest of the thread--or even the original post. Instead they just go by the header.

Hey, guys, the OP made up his mind two dozen posts ago. He's going to apply Dyna Bore Coat, which isn't any sort of oil, and works even better, since it's permanent and doesn't result in "fliers."

Darn it John, there you go again, giving good advice and making sense - PERFECT!


Terry

Not to mention personal interest!

Lots of posts needed replies. But thanks to John, thats done.

Wanna bet?

Okay! Okay! I lost the bet.

I am surprised someone hasn't followed up, there are still lots of opinions.

In this thread I didn't offer one per any particular oil, just the need of protection in humid climate.

I was merely helping out the fuzzy recollection of the poster before me. I did not imply in any way the superiority of WD-40 Specialist. Original poster was looking for oils to protect his rifle from rusting. You and others have talked him into glass lining his bore and expecting it to be the end of all discussions.

. B I N G O

ummm, wonder why? ?

Well, maybe not.

I have found the link to the original test:

http://forums.outdoorsdirectory.com/showthread.php/141077-Results-of-gun-care-product-evaluation

Thanks for posting the link, that was very informative.

I have had a change of heart as far as using the Dyna Bore Coat.
I dont want to take a chance of putting JB Bore paste in the bore .
From what I can tell it is about a 1200 grit abrasive and can harm a barrel .
Best I can tell If JB bore paste is not used then the Dyna bore coat wont work,so its back to looking for a good oil for inside the barrel to keep the corrosion out.

I Hope Remington takes care of the bore as I sent it back to them to look at and repair as only one lug was making contact on a brand new rifle and I did not want to lap the lugs and increase the headspace.We will see what they do .
Probably be a couple of months(hope sooner)before I get the rifle back.

Thanks for the info so far guys.

Well, you're wrong about JB harming a bore, and also having to to use it to install DBC. But it's your barrel.

FWIW, take the post with a big grain of salt. It was posted on the 'Fire as well.

Rancid 'was' on here as "DIYguy" before Rick did something to keep him away. You can find his list of crap and make your own decision.

He started out with some interesting posts, but turned in an uber ass hole.

I find I can't trust anything he says.

I dont know as I have never used the stuff . I was just repeating what several barrel manufactures have said.
To the effect that a patch around a brush wit JB can act as a lap and change barrel dimensions.

About the install of DBC I asked you and you never responded but I found several old threads and your instructions on the website. Dyna-Tek
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Home > Firearm Products > Firearm Application Instructions > Cleaning a Barrel to Bare Steel

Cleaning a Barrel to Bare Steel



NEEDED SUPPLIES:

1. Cleaning Solvent

2. Properly sized cleaning patches

3. Brass Bore Brush

4. JB Bore Cleaner

5. Chemical copper solvent

6. DYNA-TEK Alcohol Cleaner, Denatured Alcohol, or Acetone

7. Cleaning Rod

8. Disposable, absorbent towels

9. Safety glasses and disposable gloves recommended



The proper installation of DYNA-TEK Bore Coat involves first cleaning the bore down to bare, dry steel. Otherwise the coating won�t be sticking to the steel, but to the powder, lead or copper fouling.



1. Ensure firearm is unloaded and free of any ammunition

2. Clean out all loose powder fouling using a cleaning solvent and clean patch. Soak patch with solvent and push through bore and pull back 6 to 8 times. Change patch and repeat this 6 to 8 times or until patch comes out clear of any powder fouling.

3. Using a clean or new (this is critical) correctly sized brass bore brush, wrap it with a clean, thick cotton patch and liberally soak with JB Bore Cleaner. This has a fine abrasive that will remove fouling but not affect the base metal.

4. Run this brush/patch combination back and forth inside the barrel 30 times reapplying fresh JB to the patch every 10 strokes. The brush/patch must fit the barrel tight and should take considerable force to move it and to insure the cleaning compound is working. If it is at all loose, wrap another patch around the brush and reload it with fresh JB and continue.

5. Clean the bore again with a cleaning solvent and several patches to remove the abrasive bore cleaner.

6. Use a chemical copper solvent to remove any remaining trace amounts of copper fouling, following the manufacturer�s instructions. Normally this requires 3 cycles to complete.

7. Degrease the bore with 3-6 patches and either DYNA-TEK Alcohol Cleaner, denatured alcohol or acetone and allow to dry.

8. The bore is now completely clean to bare metal and ready for the application of DYNA-TEK Bore Coat.
We would like to thank John Barsness for the excellent bore cleaning instructions detailed above.


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My understanding from reading these articles and threads is that the coating wont stick unless the bore is super clean and that JB bore paste is required,anywhere from 30 to 100 or more strokes through the bore

The only place I found that JB was not required is on youtube where a guy was talking about just using alcohol to clean the bore.
Whats the real skinny on this stuff?
Does it require using JB paste or not ?

I think you would have to lap like a banshee for no telling how long to change the diameter of a barrel. Properly used JB is a non-issue.

You'd have to use JB a LOT to result in any dimensional differences. The 30 back-and-forth strokes recommended in the DBC directions are not a lot, and in fact only 20 strokes will normally do the job. I suggested 30 to make sure, especially for people who don't have access to a bore-scope--and most don't.

Dan Lilja is one barrel-maker I've discussed JB with. He recommends against using it FREQUENTLY, because then it can make them a little too smooth, increasing contact with the bullet and causing the barrel to foul quicker. (I've seen this myself in one bore, and DBC cured the fouling.) This is why most barrelmakers who lap bores only use a grit of around 500 for the final finish, since it allows the bullet to essentially ride on top of the tiny striations.

Using JB for 30 strokes will not do the slightest harm to the larger-grit lapping. Instead it will just take the softer stuff off the top of the steel, whether copper or powder fouling.

You can also get a bore clean enough for DBC by reapplying carbon and copper solvents, alternating each for a day or more. JB just accelerates the process, and believe me you'll never have to use it again after DBC is installed.

Thanks for the warning. Must be a strange fellow to go through all that pain just to come with some crappola.

Narcisism.

Thank you John for taking the time to explain this in further detail.I appreciate it.
Thank everyone else for your input as well.

JB-

I don't know if it was addressed in this thread or perhaps elsewhere, Have you used DBC in pistols and/or revolvers?

Yeah, a little bit, and it not only works in revolver barrels but cylinders. Have also used it in shotguns and black powder rifles, whether cartridge or muzzleloader. It makes clean-up a lot easier in any of them, partly because it reduces build-up of fouling, whether copper, lead, powder or plastic from shot-cups, and partly because the fouling that does occur comes out far easier.

Thanks!

Recently a post on the Fire showed the results of an in depth study comparing different products as to best in the parameters of rust preventive and lubrication. Alas, my old favorite Corrosion X is great at stopping rust but leaves a lot to be desired as far as a lubricant.

Has anyone tried Frog Lube?

Eezox has worked for me in wet places like Wisconsin and South Texas. Some published comparison test with other products back up my experience.

This was a great source of info.. I was just going to ask the same q. about oils.. Sounds like DB. is the way to go.. A couple questions, that I don't think were discussed.. If a guy were going to do say 20 rifles, how much of this should I order??


Mule Deer, I have several varmint rifles and a couple of my favorite big game rifles that have well over 1000 rounds thru them.. The varminters well over 2000.. Will the DBC still work with a barrel that has been used this much.. The varminters are .22-250's and the big game a couple of .300's and 7mm Mag.s.