On again, off again results today… I purchased a CZ 550 FS 9.3x62, installed a NECG peep and went to town reloading 232 Oryx and 250 TSX bullets.

However at the range there seems to be some quirk involving the safety and the single set trigger. The set trigger seems to function after the safety is moved from fire to safe and back to fire. It also seems to work after the bolt is re-installed into the action. But at other times the set trigger just releases back to the original position. I realize there are no less than 4 [four] adjustments for a CZ trigger. [And I tried the set trigger adjustment at a various settings with similar results.]

Something I'm missing? Anyone encounter this issue before?

Thanks in advance.

I am not a gun writer, but I will try and answer your question. Are you saying the set trigger will release when you move the safety on and off and also when re-installing the bolt into the action? If that is what you mean then you have the set-trigger adjusted too light. You need to increase the pull weight of the set trigger.

MuleDeer is the one to answer this. He has a couple of the CZs, I think. I seem to recall that when he adjusted the set trigger below a certain point, the set function ceases to work, but the regular single-stage function remains.

He will no doubt get to this in time.

Pappy is correct on what I have found (and it's generally what I do to 550 triggers, if I don't replace them with a Timney).

Have never encountered your problem. You might just want to contact CZ.

I have the same rifle, as an understudy to my pair of Z-47 factory 9.3s and my Oberndorf Type B 9.3.

I had mine customized with a Micky AHR stock, AHR 3-pos. safety and AHR trigger plus an old Lyman banded ramp I found here and a Marbles sourdough plus Recknagel peep and Zeiss Conquest 4x in Burris rings.

The work was done by a guy from Ralf Martinis shop and Brno21 who posts here and it is just excellent.

I would call Wayne at AHR and do what I did, makes these into a fine piece and is not that costly.

One thing to watch for. When the set function is dialed out, the trigger won't pivot forward. The trigger slot in the bottom metal is pretty tight. When removing the barreled action from the stock, and the trigger blocked for forward pivot, the MIM part can get in a bind and isn't that hard to break.

I cut the trigger slot around 3/8' rearward to give more room. And, disgusted with MIM parts, replaced the CZ trigger with a Timney. The Timney sits farther back in the trigger guard and positions the trigger finger back from the bolt handle. With this flat, butter knife handle, that is a good thing. Probably not as big a deal with the conventional bolt handle.

I also put a weaker spring in the safety and it will now slip back and forth without an audible click.

DF

I have an AHR CZ 9.3x62 with the AHR trigger. It's good, the Timney is better. And, this gun is a full house AHR custom. I traded for it, didn't pay what you see listed on the AHR website...

I've adjusted the AHR trigger as well as I can, but the Timney breaks cleaner and is easier to fool with. And, with Wayne's lastest price lists, the Timeny is probably cheaper. Get the model number and shop Ebay. The Timeny is very easy to install, is all steel and about bullet proof.

DF

Maxed out AHR CZ. Wayne's trigger sits back in the trigger guard even more than the Timney. When the CZ trigger is set, it's really forward, and more forward than AHR or Timney when not in set mode.

Could be, but, with 30+ big bore hunting rifles, aged almost 69, and some Timneys in some of my rifles, I am not about to change it now.

I might build on another factory polished receiver ZG action I have and it would be a STS barreled 9.3, but, I will get a Dressels trigger for this if I do it.

Each to his own, yours is a nice rifle, for sure!

Some folks gripe that the CZs aren't quite "Mauser enough" to suit them, but i'm willing to be fooled by ones as nice as yours. Very slick.

CZ's are well made and strong. Reportedly, they're configured like the older Mausers with a "C" pattern, vs. later Mausers with the "H" pattern (both raceways cut through, the "C" with only the extractor cut). The "C" is reportedly better at diverting gas from a blown primer, ruptured case, etc. This FN action now wears a Shilen 23" 6.5x55 tube and I did blow a primer recently. No gas, no problem.

Here's the late '50's FN/"H" configuration.

DF

We had the C vs. H discussion here a while back. I prefer the C, given a choice, but it's not a big deal, and most commercial actions produced in our lifetimes feature the H collar.

I never owned a CZ centerfire, but they are on my short list of desireable, current production bolt actions.

My 550's trigger is fine since I disabled the set function. That was not hard to do but your problem is strange enough I would call CZUSA. Their service dept. was great to me on a non-trigger related problem.

I own three CZ 550 rifles and have had zero problems with any of the triggers.I found them easy to adjust to my liking by following the directions in the manual that came with the guns.

Yeah, that's been my experience. I did replace one with a Timney just to see how the Timney worked, and of course it worked fine.

But you know Campfire rifle loonies: Never use a simple solution when you can spend extra money "customizing" a rifle that already works fine.

The CZ 550 factory trigger I replaced was working fine until I broke the MIM part. I don't know about shipping to Canada, but would be willing to send the OP this unit. He could replace the broken part from his trigger. This one has a good pull with the set feature dialed out.

This may be an option if he gets no satisfaction from CZ. His trigger may just need some adjusting, but my offer stands.

DF

Probably not a big deal. As I posted, I did blow a primer with this "H" action and got no blow back at all.

The "C" vs. "H" difference may be as much a Loony discussion point as a real gas handling issue.

But, without such issues, how would Loonies keep themselves entertained...

DF

I choose to spend varying amounts of $$$$$ on each of my hunting-working rifles because I can have them made more efficient for my uses here in western-northern Canada.

I happen to have become most familiar with the Mod. 70 safety and find it easier to just have all my rifles so equipped as *muscle memory* is effective in sudden encounters with Grizzlies, especially when alone far from any assistance in remote areas of my country.

With 50+ years and about 150 rifles under my belt, this is what works for me and I consider the expense well worth spending, others in other situations may not.

I also have Mausers with both C and H rings and prefer the original design, but, will not make a big deal about it.

I didn't like the set trigger on my CZ and replaced it with a timney

Lot to say for muscle memory and having them all set up the same.

DF

Dirtfarmer,I dont know the difference between the C&H design.Can you help me out? Thanks in advance.

Damn straight.

The "C" has only the extractor raceway cut thru, thus it sorta looks like a "C".

The "H" is both raceways cut thru, sorta looks like an "H".

Gotta use your imagination...

DF

Thanks for the offer Dirtfarmer.

PM sent.

BTW, here is the little beauty. The colour of chocolate cake with dark marbling throughout the walnut:

Nice, long and sleek.

If I can figure out the Canadian shipping details, I'll send you the trigger. Other than the broke piece, it's really good. I probably wouldn't have gone with the Timney if it hadn't broken.

If you're gonna dial out the set feature, see my earlier post on extending the bottom metal trigger slot . It will save you some heart burn...

DF

I hate MIM.

I've read that MIM parts have 95% of the density of real steel, but experience shows that there are potential flaws that often go undetected and can lead to failure. Magnafluxing or a similar process could probably detect the flaws, but it's unlikely to be done on a part made so as to save money. The adjustable sight on a Kimber Target II I bought for my son snapped off at the top of the dovetail, and as it was apparently pressed into place by a hydraulic press, had to go back to the factory. DF's trigger problem could have gotten somebody killed.

Kahr uses MIMed slide stops for their lower-grade pistols, but increases the diameter to compensate for the weaker material.

Since we are on this subject. DF, can you tell me if this is a set trigger? The older gentleman I bought it from told me it was not a set trigger, but the older single stage. Interesting topic guys. By the way, I really like this trigger. It is set to 2 3/8 pounds and breaks like a glass rod. It was adjusted this way when I got it, so I haven't messed with it to see if it is a set trigger. Just took the old guy at his word. I'm more of a model 70 guy, but this CZ 550 9.3 is a great gun and extremely accurate.

That is a set trigger.

Thanks ed...

+1

Compare it to the photo I posted.

Same.

DF

Looks the same. Thanks guys.. I really like the trigger. It is very smooth, no creep and breaks like a glass rod. Set is disabled in adjustment I guess. I've never messed with it because it has been great where it has been set by previous owner. I'll also keep an eye on the trigger guard when I take it out of the stock. If I remember correctly, it is tight when pulling the guard out of the stock. Kind of hangs up on the back of the trigger...

bsa

Two CZ's and one ZKK 602 adjusted to about 3# by 'smith did exactly that to set feature, which I am happy about. And, yes, they are tight fitting, particularly when bedded.

I am pleased that my ZKK 602 came with a single stage trigger. I still don't understand why CZ is putting the set trigger on their larger bores. No one wants them and one would think that the simple single stage trigger would cost less to make, install and adjust at assembly time.

Set triggers must be a European thing.

Look at the photo I posted earler. The steel housing looks machined, non MIM, although the broke part is MIM.

This trigger is a lot more complicated with more parts and machine work than the Timney that replaced it.

I have two CZ's, neither one has the factory single set trigger. Although in all honesty, the one I broke was adjusted pretty well and if it hadn't failed, I'd probably still be using it. It wasn't as good as the Timney, but not bad.

DF

That reminds me of the first cape buffalo I shot, using a CZ 550 416 Rigby. It quartered very close to us, and I was so used to setting the trigger I did for this shot. The PH heard the "click" and turned white, thinking my rifle had misfired.

I love set triggers, single or double. I used my first one at 13 and have liked them ever since. I'm convinced I shoot more accurately under all circumstances with an 8oz pull.

I do like good single stage triggers like my Timneys, Dayton Traisters, and inexpensive Bold triggers.

Good triggers go a long way towards preventing the jerk-n-flinches.

Thanks for the advice and input. Yesterday I went to the range after disassembling the CZ rifle and adjusting the trigger. I think the problem is sussed. The set trigger function every time except when I engaged the set trigger with the safety in the off position. If the issue persists I bought 6 & 7mm wrenches to completely reset the trigger unit as per the instructions posted.

I found a medium load for 55 gr. of H4895 and Barnes 250 gr. TSX bullets {may need to reduce this in order to seat the bullets under 3.29"].

Anyone used any Barnes bullets and similar loads on game?

I have the same 550 in the same caliber and my set trigger has never done that. It seems to work fine. I have no gripes about it and it shoots great. The trigger is pretty crisp without setting it so I hardly ever use the set feature. It kicks enough that I don't like the very light pull. Amazingly, the best accuracy I have found is the Prvi 285 grain factory loads and they work great on game. It will shoot 1" groups all day and my handloads are no better. Plus it's pretty reasonably priced. It's Mauser enough for me and it is one of my favorite rifles.

Never, ever use set triggers for hunting.