I'm posting this question here as well as the Knives forum to get a bit more feedback...
After the last 5 years of wandering in the desert (literally!) I've settled into a new home here on the Gulf Coast and, not surprisingly, as I've been doing through and slowly organizing all my crap I've found a lot of stuff has gone missing or has become too old and broke down to fix (sorta like me...).
I was looking to split some mesquite logs the other day and couldn't find my old axe. It wasn't much of an axe, really, just a standard hardware store 2-1/2 pound head single-blade, but I'd worked the edge with files and stones to the point where it was serviceable. But it seems to have got lost.
So I wandered down to Lowe's and bought me a nice little hand-axe, which of course had nothing like an edge on it, worked it over with Dremel and file to get some sharp on it, and it served to split the softwood I have on hand, but doesn't hardly put a dent in mesquite. And since I have close to a cord of mesquite, I'm gonna have to fix this.
So... before I go spending good money on bad steel on the gaddom innanet, who among the cognoscenti here on the 'Fire has a recommendation for a true quality axe?
I'm looking for two: a packable hand-axe (aka hatchet) and a 3-pound single blade general purpose axe. The floor is open to comments.
You can buy a custom axe with the head tempered by Bavarian elves and a handle made out of left over Stradavarius wood, but you won't find an axe or splitter that does better than the Fiskars brand.
And they are inexpensive.
I have the shorter "boys axe" that I carry in my trucks, and the same size splitter and a longer full size splitter. Best I've ever used in all cases.
In the hand-axe category I got a really great one from my Husqvarna dealer. Husqvarna makes (or some one makes for them) a nice axe (in several lengths) as well as a hatchet.
All that said, Eastwing makes a hatchet sized splitting maul (sp?). I have had one with the leather handle for years and it sure beats trying to split wood with an axe or hatchet.
You can buy a custom axe with the head tempered by Bavarian elves and a handle made out of left over Stradavarius wood, but you won't find an axe or splitter that does better than the Fiskars brand.
And they are inexpensive.
I have the shorter "boys axe" that I carry in my trucks, and the same size splitter and a longer full size splitter. Best I've ever used in all cases.
If you can stand to spend less than $50 for a Swedish blade, I've had this little Husqvarna for a year and a half now and it is perfect for splitting and shaving kindling (what I use it for) and would likely be just dandy for taking off limbs or bringing down small trees. Came with a leather blade guard but a full sheath wouldn't be hard to put together. The blade was straight and sharp right out of the box (haven't touched up the edge yet and it is still sharp enough to shave pine for fire-starter) and other than a bit of linseed on the handle there isn't much that needs to be done before the choppin' starts
You can buy a custom axe with the head tempered by Bavarian elves and a handle made out of left over Stradavarius wood, but you won't find an axe or splitter that does better than the Fiskars brand.
And they are inexpensive.
I have the shorter "boys axe" that I carry in my trucks, and the same size splitter and a longer full size splitter. Best I've ever used in all cases.
Casey
+1. I've got a Fiskars X17 splitting axe and it has worked great. I like the shorter handle because I have a shed for wood storage and I can swing the shorter axe inside without hitting the roof; it also gives better control for splitting down small pieces.
I can buy 2 Husqvarna's for the price of one Gransfor.
The differences are negligible.
+1
Husky....or Council Tool/Estwing if you like US made products....
I have a Husky Carpenters axe and a Council Boys axe for campsite work, a rescued Plumb Cruser for home use, and an Estwing hatchet....the combined cost was pretty close to what you'd pay for a GB....
I've used Gransfors, Wetterling and Snow and Nealy and have settled on a Council Hudson Bay Pattern for most kindling, small tree cutting and splitting chores as a general purpose axe. They make several different length handles for it as well.
They are tough (not quite as hard as the Swedish steel) they have a better cross section in the cheek area for splitting dry and tougher wood where as the Gransfors are thinner and more for green wood. The Council costs less and still has good quality steel that holds a good edge and USA made. HArd to beat.
Hults Bruk is the oldest manufacturer in the world. I agree any of the Swedish Axes are top notch. I don't buy anything though that won't accept a new handle like a Fiskars.
You also don't have to pay $100-$300 for an axe. I've bought some fine old True Temper axes at yard sales for $10-$20,but we have lots of that kind of stuff where I live.
I don't buy anything though that won't accept a new handle like a Fiskars.
As much fun it is to rehafting an axe, it is easy to tolerate the Fiskars because after countless bad strikes over the years that would have made it necessary to rehaft a traditional wood handle, the plastic handles that Fiskars come with have yet to exhibit any damage in the least. Admittedly, it leaves me in wonderment all the time.
I don't buy anything though that won't accept a new handle like a Fiskars.
As much fun it is to rehafting an axe, it is easy to tolerate the Fiskars because after countless bad strikes over the years that would have made it necessary to rehaft a traditional wood handle, the plastic handles that Fiskars come with have yet to exhibit any damage in the least. Admittedly, it leaves me in wonderment all the time.
+1. I have had no problems with the handles on my Fiskars and, if one ever does break, I can get another Fiskars axe for the price of a good axe haft.
I don't buy anything though that won't accept a new handle like a Fiskars.
As much fun it is to rehafting an axe, it is easy to tolerate the Fiskars because after countless bad strikes over the years that would have made it necessary to rehaft a traditional wood handle, the plastic handles that Fiskars come with have yet to exhibit any damage in the least. Admittedly, it leaves me in wonderment all the time.
+1. I have had no problems with the handles on my Fiskars and, if one ever does break, I can get another Fiskars axe for the price of a good axe haft.
Well,maybe I'm just too set in my ways. I may have to get one just to see if my boy can destroy it instead of one of my hickory handles.
Both Husqvarna and Gransfors Bruk axes & hatchets are common here in Sweden, so I have been able to compare them side by side on several occasions.
I can't see any notable differences between the profile of the heads.
I have no way to compare the metallurgy or hardness but I do know the Gransfors Bruks heads have hard cutting edges, with softer eyes & polls so they don't crack or splinter. I do not know if the Husqvarna have differentially-hardened heads.
However, I have seen a number of Husquvarna axes or hatches with bad grain layout -- bad enough that I think they would not take long to break.
I have not seen a Gransfors Bruk hatchet or axe with bad grain orientation so far, so if you are going to order through the Internet, a Gransfors Bruk seems a safer bet.
If you can examine the handle and get one with the annular growth rings running more or less parallel to the long axis of the head, then I would not worry about buying either. If you are mail ordering, I would stick with Gransfors Bruk.
Gransfors Bruk has a nice WEBSITE too. They take pride in what they do, and they also have an interesting tour of the factory and classes in log building, but I can imagine that this is less likely to interest you...
I use a hydraulic splitter for processing serious firewood for the house.
+1. Only way to fly. I use the hydraulic splitter to get the rounds down to reasonable sizes, then switch to a splitting axe to take the pieces down to stove size. Once I used a hydraulic splitter, I swore I'd never go back to a maul and wedges--particularly for splitting rounds with lots of knots in them, which we get quite a few of when taking down large fir trees.
I don't buy anything though that won't accept a new handle like a Fiskars.
As much fun it is to rehafting an axe, it is easy to tolerate the Fiskars because after countless bad strikes over the years that would have made it necessary to rehaft a traditional wood handle, the plastic handles that Fiskars come with have yet to exhibit any damage in the least. Admittedly, it leaves me in wonderment all the time.
+1. I have had no problems with the handles on my Fiskars and, if one ever does break, I can get another Fiskars axe for the price of a good axe haft.
Same for me. The Gerber/Fiskars are the real deal.
I use a hydraulic splitter for processing serious firewood for the house.
+1. Only way to fly. I use the hydraulic splitter to get the rounds down to reasonable sizes, then switch to a splitting axe to take the pieces down to stove size. Once I used a hydraulic splitter, I swore I'd never go back to a maul and wedges--particularly for splitting rounds with lots of knots in them, which we get quite a few of when taking down large fir trees.
Mostly splitting lodgepole here, a little fir. It's mostly dry beetle-kill. Splits pretty easy with just a modest sized splitter.
Of the axes currently manufactured, Gransfors Bruk are the best I own. I bought my first two in Sweden back before they were known in the States. I brought them back strapped to either side of my pack, which I carried on. I had shaved much of the hair off my left forearm while selecting them at the hardware store in Uppsala.
They are a fine tool akin to an English best gun. While there are many others that will get the job done, Gransfor Bruk are on another level altogether.
My brother loves Fiskars, I love Husq, we compare them every year in big game camp and are still at a draw. Neither of us can justify a Gransfors Bruks because ours do what is needed just fine. Just maybe not with as much class...
I like my Gerber Camp axe. Great for lighter duty. Handle could be better so I wrapped mine with Winn handle tape (fishing product) axe head is very sharp and holds the edge pretty decent. They run about $40.00
Gransfors Bruk are top of the line, but at the time my budget wasn't....I purchased both a hand axe and the Forest axe from Wetterlings. Have never been disappointed with either of them!
My favorite single bit axe is the Hudson Bay style. It is 3# with a 28 inch handle. Been a great companion on hunting/fishing trips as well splitting wood at home. I choke up on the handle and it serves well as a hatchet for splitting kindling.
Fits nicely in scabbard if so inclined.
Recent activity with the axe this fall. Stove and fireplace wood pile.
Along this bent, Snow and Neally are well known for the Hudson Bay pattern. They make several other patterns and all are made in Maine. A 3-1/2 lb single bit would make a nice splitting axe.
Some are available on Amazon.
Regarding GB. My hands down favorite is their traditional hunter's axe with the mirror polished poll. I take some pics tomorrow.
Along this bent, Snow and Neally are well known for the Hudson Bay pattern. They make several other patterns and all are made in Maine. A 3-1/2 lb single bit would make a nice splitting axe.
Some are available on Amazon.
Regarding GB. My hands down favorite is their traditional hunter's axe with the mirror polished poll. I take some pics tomorrow.
Be advised that there is chatter on the Internet that S&N had axe heads made in China and then finished and assembled in Maine. This happened some years ago. Might be different now.
Along this bent, Snow and Neally are well known for the Hudson Bay pattern. They make several other patterns and all are made in Maine. A 3-1/2 lb single bit would make a nice splitting axe.
Some are available on Amazon.
Regarding GB. My hands down favorite is their traditional hunter's axe with the mirror polished poll. I take some pics tomorrow.
Be advised that there is chatter on the Internet that S&N had axe heads made in China and then finished and assembled in Maine. This happened some years ago. Might be different now.
The company is now owned by an Amish family, who's transitioned to a 100% US forged, finished, and hafted product.
They make a model called the "small forest axe" for those who require a tool with three flat surfaces for pounding tent stakes.
I have the GB small forest axe: great quality but the angle of the head is more for cutting and not splitting. Head gets stuck too often when I've used it to make kindling. Handle is too long for packing or driving stakes - IME.
it served to split the softwood I have on hand, but doesn't hardly put a dent in mesquite.
The floor is open to comments.
I haven't had the 'privilege' of splitting mesquite BUT... I have split "Sycamore". The toughest wood I've ever encountered. Since you said, "the floor is open to comments."
Originally Posted by Boise
.... or better yet a powered splitter.
A POWER splitter is best<< quickest<< easiest way.
I have a 21 ton hydraulic and UNLESS I'm mistaken, seems I've seen an advertisement, someone makes an 'electric' power splitter.
AT 67 yo, my 'manual' splitting days are over. grin
A rig axe is the way for driving stuff. But personally, I like the Vaughan's better than Plumb. Better balance for driving due to the weight in the head rather than the blade. They also seem to be faster chopping out trap beds in frezzen ground.....Have multiples of each, tho....
You can buy a custom axe with the head tempered by Bavarian elves and a handle made out of left over Stradavarius wood, but you won't find an axe or splitter that does better than the Fiskars brand.
And they are inexpensive.
I have the shorter "boys axe" that I carry in my trucks, and the same size splitter and a longer full size splitter. Best I've ever used in all cases.
Casey
Thank you Casey. One of the funniest things I've read in a bit
A utilitarian hatchet for more than chopping wood. Pounds nails, staples and stakes, etc., pulls nails and barb fence wire. Plus, it works well on a chicken head on a block of wood.
I split just short of 20 full cords of Red Oak and Rock/Sugar Maple cut to 3' lengths for my wood boiler with an Fiskars X27 this past fall. Best splitting axe I have ever used.
Red Oak nearly splits just looking at it.We don't have much Sugar Maple,so I've never split that. I've rarely used an axe for splitting. For most of our wood a maul is necessary.
Red Oak nearly splits just looking at it.We don't have much Sugar Maple,so I've never split that. I've rarely used an axe for splitting. For most of our wood a maul is necessary.
A bit cross topic, but with all these nice axes and hatchets maybe one of you guys can send some pictures to that kid at UC who wants to cut his dick off to protest Trump and tell him to take his pick.
Not sure if you want to let him use a good one or not, as A) you might not want it back knowing what it was used for or B) it could hold a special place in your heart knowing what it was used for.
Light pack axe, look at either the Marble's Camp or Hunter's style axe.
Other than the names, the degree of finish on the blades, and the prices, I don't see that there enough difference between comparable styles in the GB, Wetterling, and Husqvarna lines without picking them up and see how they feel to you.
Red Oak nearly splits just looking at it.We don't have much Sugar Maple,so I've never split that. I've rarely used an axe for splitting. For most of our wood a maul is necessary.
I used an 8lb maul before a friend turned me on to the X27. Keep in mind our oak has half the growing season of yours. Hence the growth rings are tighter and the density is higher. If frozen and straight grained it's not too bad to split. If twisted like much of it is and it's green and not frozen it can suck to split. Maple sucks to split regardless.
I am certainly not an expert user but have found Fiskars axes and hatchets to be an amazing value. They just feel right to me. Try to match the tool to the job, a good felling ax will probably not be a good splitter. Go to buckin billy ray's you tube channel and see how a pro splits wood.
A bit cross topic, but with all these nice axes and hatchets maybe one of you guys can send some pictures to that kid at UC who wants to cut his dick off to protest Trump and tell him to take his pick.
Not sure if you want to let him use a good one or not, as A) you might not want it back knowing what it was used for or B) it could hold a special place in your heart knowing what it was used for.
Maybe we could take donations, a member could buy a cigar cutter, deliver it, and make sure it was used.
Don't have a clue what the best axe is but it is likely to be outperformed by a $25 splitting maul from Harbor Freight or Lowes if you are busting up logs. If I were in the market for an axe or hatchet I'd look at Council tools. They have good American made axes that can be had for around $60. They also have some expensive stuff targeted at the "bushcraft" market if you want to go that route. I guess they want a cut of Gransfor's action.
I have an old carpenter's hatchet like the one in roundoak's post except it has a wood handle. It belonged to my Grandfather...I have no idea what kind it is. I use it for the rare times I need a hatchet. I can't see much wrong with the Estwing camp hatchet with the leather handle if I were going to get a new one. It looks pretty unbreakable to me....$35 everyday at Home Depot.
Don't have a clue what the best axe is but it is likely to be outperformed by a $25 splitting maul from Harbor Freight or Lowes if you are busting up logs.
I am jealous of all the fine, easy splitting wood.
All we have is cottonwood, ash and random elm growing in the yard.
8lb maul for splitting, no other choice.
Axe for chopping ice.
Hatchet for make kindling out of old cedar fence posts.
What do we like for clearing out head tall, thorny thickets? Thinking some kind of bush hook.
I bought a piece of property three years that has thickets made up of Blackberry, Multiflora rose and Prickly Ash. Bush-hogged where I could and applied 2-4 D on the new growth. On the other thickets I am using a chainsaw rather than a brush hook or machete...works slick and apply 2-4 D on the new growth.
I figure I need another three years of clearing at the rate of 2-3 hours of part time free time effort.
Doc it's hard to beat Fiskars x27. Take a look at some youtube vids. Wood splits best at about -10F LOL
bud, I moved to Corpus Christi with the expectation that most of my -10F days are behind me and are a-gonna STAY behind me, gaddomit!!
Anyways, I went to Lowe's last evening after dinner and bought a Fiskars hand axe, their 14" X15 "Chopping Hatchet", which was the only decent axe they had on hand. Chopped up some kindling with it last night out of some seasoned mesquite chunks and I was impressed with how well it hacked up that hard old wood. The worker bee at Lowe's told me that they are getting a shipment of bigger Fiskars axes later this week, so I might go get one of those as well.
I don't have much need to split wood, as fires down in the part of the world are for pleasure, not a necessity, so buying a hydraulic splitter isn't necessary. Doesn't mean I won't buy one, mind...
As for the rest, I've got a short list of "must haves" out of the list of various axes and hatchets you pards have recommended. Doubt I'll end up with a collection like some of y'all's but having a modest assortment of axes in my shop seems to be a nice goal, and cheaper than collecting rifles...
I've never used a swedish hatchet so I can't speak to their quality. I have had an estwing sportsmans hatchet for 30 years that I have enjoyed using and owning. For splitting I would choose a splitting maul with a plastic tough handle. The weight of the head does most of the work and has the width to spread hard to split wood. I have had hickory hammer handles shatter with heavy use, that had never been struck on the wood.
If you can stand to spend less than $50 for a Swedish blade, I've had this little Husqvarna for a year and a half now and it is perfect for splitting and shaving kindling (what I use it for) and would likely be just dandy for taking off limbs or bringing down small trees. Came with a leather blade guard but a full sheath wouldn't be hard to put together. The blade was straight and sharp right out of the box (haven't touched up the edge yet and it is still sharp enough to shave pine for fire-starter) and other than a bit of linseed on the handle there isn't much that needs to be done before the choppin' starts
At age 69: I can definativly tell you that the best hatchet or ax is anyone that is wielded effectively to your benefit by someone else... who also carries it.
At age 69: I can definativly tell you that the best hatchet or ax is anyone that is wielded effectively to your benefit by someone else... who also carries it.
A bit cross topic, but with all these nice axes and hatchets maybe one of you guys can send some pictures to that kid at UC who wants to cut his dick off to protest Trump and tell him to take his pick.
Not sure if you want to let him use a good one or not, as A) you might not want it back knowing what it was used for or B) it could hold a special place in your heart knowing what it was used for.
Maybe we could take donations, a member could buy a cigar cutter, deliver it, and make sure it was used.
Gransfors Bruk are top of the line, but at the time my budget wasn't....I purchased both a hand axe and the Forest axe from Wetterlings. Have never been disappointed with either of them!
Good axes are where you find them. 45 years ago I bought a no-name axe from a hardware store and it's lasted me all that time. It's had a new head and three new handles but it sure has been a good axe.
Ken Howell is no longer here to regale us with old jokes so I thought I would add my humble effort in his stead...
For kindling a Japanese carpenters hatchet has worked well it has good steel and you can get it shaving sharp.
I keep my eyes out at junk store and garage sales for hatchets and axes. Many of the older ones are better quality than what you can find at the big box stores. Especially with no handle I can get a nice axe head for about $5 bucks usually.
Vaughn hatchets are still made in Bushnell, Illinois, USA, and for the money, pretty good. If you like hatchets with steel shanks, Estwing still makes them in Rockford, Illinois, USA.
I too believe that the proper implement for splitting firewood is a splitting maul, unless you're just splitting up some old boards for kindling.
Those are awesome. I have several that I use for clearing shooting lanes and all kinds of other stuff. I just have to keep my eye on them because once people use them, they want to keep them.
Go get a fireman's axe for splitting wood, and a Eswing for the small chores! A 6# fireman's axe will split with the best at half the price! All the phoo ha about imported axes, just that phoo ha! Yes I burn wood to keep warm, not much around 5 cord a year!
I've got a 37 ton hydraulic wood splitter. WAY better than splitting with a maul or axe. We don't have gum or oaks or anything like that, but twisted juniper that is a serious PIA with any maul or splitter is no match for my hydraulic splitter.
I've got several hardware store/Home Depot type axes, and I've had so/so luck with them over the years. I have never had an issue with my 26" Estwing axe, but after reading this thread, I think I will be ordering a Gränsfors Hunter´s Axe.
What do we like for clearing out head tall, thorny thickets? Thinking some kind of bush hook.
If you're talking a hand tool, look up sandvik brush cutter.
Akbob5, my first thoughts exactly. Don't presently own one but they worked quite well when I was walking creeks for a timber company doing fish surveys. Green stuff under an inch were done with one swing even for a wimp like me. Blades are replaceable, but we sharpened them too.
PS, nice stuff you fellas, but for splitting it's a maul for me.
PPS, that man from the land of milk and honey probably knows what it's like to split Eucalyptus. The type we had in SoCal we generally let dry out in that climate for 2-3 years before even attempting to split by hand.
I stopped carrying an axe or saw while elk hunting, but after sitting out a few snowstorms this last year (with pathetic campfires due to having to scrounge what few branches I could break off), I think I will try carrying this sucker around and see WTF...
My experience is limited, but my Snow and Nealy Hudson Bay pattern ax works better than any others I've used. It was impressive when my experienced friend in Wisconsin used it to split firewood when he had forgotten his spitting ax. However, the wooden handle will not stay tight in our dry climate. A Fiskar now does my limited utility work here.
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