I have a Tikka T3 in Swede. 22" stock barrel w 1:8 twist.

I bought this for long range hunting for deer and coyote and the possibility of a future Elk hunt using a 156+.

With the hopes of being able to reach out to 1000 yards on yotes I slapped on a LRHS 4.5-18 and had some custom loads worked up from Copper Creek Ammo to try to get some extra velocity.

They sent me a load development pack with 5 different charges and I shot groups with each of them and the one with the best group was selected.

That load as it turned out was the one with the "hottest" load of the 5 they sent.
Hornady Brass and VLD 140s with a COAL of 3.14". (not given the recipe)

I then ordered 50 more rounds of that specific load and took them to the range where I put them through a Pro-Chrono Digital. I was disappointed to find the avg velocity was only 2498 FPS (they were consistent and grouped very well).

When I reached out to copper creek they advised the expected velocity from that load and a 22" barrel should be 2750-2850 fps. They suggested I double check the chrono so yesterday I headed back to the range and brought along a buddy's Ruger American in 6.5 creedmoor along with some off the shelf Hornady AMAX 140s.

Once again my avg with the Swede was 2512 (a little better but not much).
I then ran a string with the creedmoor and it came out at 2768.

Not sure what to think at this point as I have seen many posts about achieving 2750+ out of a 22" Swede.

Is this a situation were I simply have to invest in reloading myself? I really don't want to do that due to time constraints/other obligations, but not sure where else to go here .

thoughts?

If you want consistency and reliability......reloading is your best bet.

I think that a commercial loader would have potential liability concerns about loading the 6.5x55 at greater than "usual" pressures. 2,500 fps with a 140 grain bullet seems on the slow side of published loads, certainly well below the pressures that your rifle could be expected to handle.

You're never going to squeeze the most out of your rifle unless you reload for it, as every rifle and every rifle barrel is unique.

Good luck on those 1,000 yard coyotes!

I will never shoot yotes at 1000, wouldn't even take the shot to be honest. But if I am going to dream I am going to dream big.

Get a cheap Lee kit and you'll be building better ammo than that bought stuff within a week.

You should be able to safely get 2800 in your modern rifle.

I have a tikka 6.5x55 and it is an absolute hammer.

The problem with Tikkas is they have a long throat, and I believe it makes the gun a bit slow unless you up the charge.

With 140's I was hovering around 2650. I dropped back to 123 Scenars and I am now around 2980 with H4350.

*If you want to become proficient at longer distances, you need to shoot a lot. That can get expensive really fast if shooting factory.

pull one of the bullets and weigh the powder charge
then compare to several reloading manuals , if they claim you should be getting top velocity your powder charge should be close or at max listed in the manuals .....

This ^^^^^


And this ^^^^

Getting good at ANY range takes practice and trigger time. While the Lee "combo kit" is not the Cadillac of reloading kits. if you take your time and follow the directions, you should be able to find a load that is "just right" for your rifle in short order.

Reloading typically does not "save" you money. It just allows you to shoot more with the money you have. And there is a certain amount of personal satisfaction when you are able to connect with a target, or a game animal, with a round that you loaded yourself...

I shoot 140 berger vlds out of my tikka swede and get 2700 fps...Shoots well sub 1" at 100 yds. PM me and I'll give you my load if you'd like.

I shoot 140 berger vlds out of my tikka swede and get 2700 fps...Shoots well sub 1" at 100 yds. PM me and I'll give you my load if you'd like.

I just bought a Tikka in 6.5 Swede. If I find any exciting loads, I'll post them.

I forgot to mention the bullet I would choose for long range hunting - the Barnes Long Range TSX, 127 grains. I don't have any - yet.

^skip the barnes and get some Scenars.

Might try the JLK 130gr VLD bullets. They work well in the 264WM.

I have a Husqvarna carbine. Model 98 mauser action. It is in the 6.5 x 55. It seems to handle max loads from the books easily. Remember the 6.5 x 55 data is diluted due to accommodate the common weaker army actions.

With no tinkering my brothers 6.5x55 tikka shot 140 gr. Nosler Partition in an inch with 52 Gr. of H1000( 2800FPS) and he harvested a nice cow elk with it. I believe a 130 or 140 gr. vld with some work up would be a fine choice for longer ranges.......

tag

I got my Swede moving pretty fast by accident.

http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/9785470/1

Don't try this at home...

DF

Have two Swedes.......field Tikka & heavy 18# Savage Target gun

N560...H4831...H4350......RE22....heavy 140-144's

gotta luv the Swede......

+1

My 6.5x55 really likes 139 gr. Scenars. Think I'll stick with them in that gun.

DF

That's been my experience with my Tikkas as well. On the flip side, the long throat let's you load up a little more before you see pressure, so if you handload you can usually still hit decent velocities.

I have three Swedes and the newest is 110 years old. That's probably why your velocity is where it is. The loader is probably afraid his ammo will end up in one of the Gustav Swedes.

The 6.5x55mm cartridge is from 1891 and registered at 55,110 psi in Europe and 51,000 psi in the US.

The case head is good for ~ 67 kpsi and long brass life.
If one works up to extractor groove growth threshold [indicator for primer pocket growth] and backs off 6% powder charge aka Vernon Speer 1956 on how to write a load book, the pressure will be ~ 65kpsi, like the registration of a 22-250, 6mmRem, or 270Win that use the same Mauser case head.