Ok guys, I just purchased a new Win model 70 sporter in a 264 win mag 1:9 twist. I am wanting to set it up for long range hunting an maybe 1000 yard target.. I am gonna stay all factory with the gun no stock update. I would like preferences an ideas on bases an rings. I will prolly put a Bushnell DMR or Bushnell 4.5-18 LHRS on the gun. I would like any input or advice on the set up for best accuracy.

Thanks

The most solid set up will be one that eliminates physical connection points. In my order of preference: DNZ Game Reaper one-piece, one base ring/mount sets, next would be Talley Light-Weights, DNZ Hunt Master, etc. one-piece, two base ring/mount sets, and third would be a Picatinny rail/ring set. Everything else follows. The pic rail setup is by far the most common among the dedicated target and long-range groups. You can get up to +20 MOA versions of all the above choices.

Thanks for the info!! Much appreciated.

I would use a rail because of the elevation preloads available and flexible ring placement.

If weight in not a concern I would go with Burris Signature rings and what ever bases would work. Otherwise I would use Tally.

I owned a NH Classic Sporter in 264 a few years ago and had great luck with 140 VLDs and H1000. Was running Talleys and tried a few scopes on there.

TND, the 1-9 twist stabilized the 140s ok?

Buy the Talley two piece, you won't be sorry

I didn't realize that Win went with a 1 in 9 twist? Why not a 1 in 8??

Because if your gonna go wood, blued, CRF, paltry COAL confines, and crappy stock ergos on a Long Range gun... you might as well go the whole nine and twist it poorly to boot. A gloss finish Zeiss in windage adjustable bases would take it over the top....

Lol

There is a huge shortage or "classy" LR rigs
I found the 9 twist just fine w/ the 140s at near sea level.

This group was at 212 yards IIRC.

If I were setting it up for 1000 yds. then I would use a 20 MOA rail also. Not the prettiest, but the most functional.

Good to know. I have a Model 70 extreme weather .264 wm. Also 1-9 twist. Mine is a 26" barrel. Haven't tried anything over 130 grain yet. Looks like that will change. Goodshot

I have the Ruger Hawkeye 24 inch tube 1:8 an it shoots the 143 VLD X with h1000 at 100 yds 5/8 group very well pleased.. I am gonna try 123 A Max in my 1:9 model 70 26 inch tube hoping to get some good groups there

Nice group TDN.. I am currently using 143 eld x an 62 grains of h1000 5/8 group at 100 out of my Ruger Hawkeye 24 inch 264

"Ebony" tips and red pads.... are for chicks with Jungle Fever.... not rifles.

TDN, looks good to me. OP, I like your rifle, have always liked the M70s.

It may be awhile before I get mine all set up but when I do I will post some pics. Thanks for all the replies an help.

I'd like to see RL26 tested in the 264 Win. I suspect good things.

Consider installing pillars and bedding the shank of the barrel and action at least.

Also, consider buying a Redding competition die set for reloading if you're serious about the long range work. Other than that, a bit of time checking powder charges and seating depths will yield best results regardless of the hardware, in my experience.

Bob

I will consider.. the barrel is floated so that should help gonna shoot it 1st an go from there.. I never done any bedding, what would it cost from someone that does this professionally?

SU35, I ran it in my Mod. 70 sporter with 142's and 140 Noslers and didn't have much luck. Mainly accuracy was poor in my rifle so I never pursued it.

7828 did ok but RL33 is working amazingly well in my rifle.

I have read some good stuff on the RL33

My load is 62 grains of H1000 an 143 eld-x in my Hawkeye

I used Berger 140 in my pre-64's. they were fine at a hundred yards. I didn't like them on game. Accuracy was great. I never tried them in the Sako's I have. I think they are 1 in 9 also. You can try them for the hell of it. If they don't work, someone on here will buy them.

Thanks, good to know, seems RL25 and RL26 are no goes for the cartridge.

I am wanting to try some retumbo, but you don't hear many people using that powder

It has been my go to powder in the 264 so it is worth a try. I have used it with 130's and heavier but data for the lighter bullets looks pretty good as well.

RL25 has worked amazing in my M70 264 WM..



300 yards



It did very well at 600 yards as well.

Saying that, I have RL33 loaded up and ready for the range the next time I get it out.

Impressive!!!! 1st group 100 yds? 2nd group 300 yds?

In my pre 64 win mod 70 264 win mag westerner, 72 grains of Rel 33 zips 140 Nosler AB at 3180 and shoots 5 touching shots at 100 yards.

RL33 is Reloader 33 correct?

Correct.

I have had good luck with the Barnes 127 gr. LRX bullet in front of 70.1 grains of Ramshot Magnum. My rifle is an Extreme Weather Model 70 264 Win Mag.

How do you like your extreme weather model.. I am considering one of those as well in a 264 win mag.. accuracy good with different loads. What's your current load an group size?

Thanks

i like the EW in 264. It will shoot under and inch when I do my part. I have also tried 140 Berger's with RL-33 and they don' seem to shoot as well yet. I have them .010 off the lands and will move back to .020 nest time on the range. I used 75.5 grains of RL-33 with the Berger's.

Jeremy,

I have no idea your experience so I will just mention a few things I see after reading the entire thread.

1. When you torque down your scope it can introduce stress against your action causing accuracy issues. Most folks lap there rings to correct this issue. A much easier way if you don't want to mess with lapping rings is simply use the burris signatures as Ringman suggested. Burris sigs have inserts that self align eliminating stress to the action. You can also get them with + or -10 moa inserts which I would recommend.

2. Make sure the crown of your barrel is perfect and never put the tip of your barrel on the floorboard where dirt or gravel can screw it up. If that's already happened get it fixed before you mess with trying to find a good load.

3. How you load your ammo is important. David Tubb has a few excellent videos on YouTube I'd recommend watching. There are a few here that can give you some excellent advice also. Beware however....there is also a large amount of worthless schit your going to have to sort through.

Another important consideration is you are going to be handloading for a shelf rifle not a custom. The approach on takes is different. Most of what your going to read concerning long range is going to be how to handload for a custom long range rifle with a custom chamber and barrel. Your loading for factory fodder. Its different in that you can skip a bunch of nonsense that you'll never realize as far as accuracy is concerned in a factory chamber and barrel. The David Tubb videos are for custom rifles so some stuff you won't need for what your doing. I'd recommend watching it anyways to learn and know the difference. I would highly recommend consulting John Barness "aka" MuleDeer if you want to realize all you can get while skipping a ton of useless crap for a non custom chamber and barrel. IMO if done correctly 3 ish inch 500 yd groups are not out of the question. Sometimes even better.

4. I'd use Norma or Lapua brass!

5. Someone will be along shortly to tell you how I don't know schit because I once asked a question on the long range forum. Likely it will be someone who failed to explain a lot of this important schit to you.

6. Id get the rifle pillar bedded as someone already recommended. I'm sure there were some other very good recommendations as well.

7. How you clean your barrel and chamber is extremely important to how well your rifle is going to perform. Eliminate all oil from the chamber, barrel, or bolt face. Make sure that chamber is sqeeky clean.

You may likely know much of this and if you do please don't take any offense. As I said...I have zero idea as to your experience.



Good luck




Trystan

Thanks Trystan, I greatly appreciate the time you took to write up a check list of things to check for a accurate shooting rifle. I my self have not got into loading rifle cartridges. I have a good friend who long range shoots competitive an he has been custom loading for 25 years. He does my loading for me but I always want to see how everybody else results has played out. I know custom built rifles can an do out preform stock rifles. I am different in a way that I like to try to do something different than others an try to prove that a all factory gun can perform at a close an comparable with accuracy. I love the challenge an I do know a lot has to do with the shooter I have shot rifles all my life an I would like to think I can ring steel at a 1000 yds with a factory gun consistently. Guess time will tell.


Once again, I wanna think everyone for there time to read this post an every opinion is greatly appreciated.

Thanks Jeremy

Yes sir.

My Sako's and model 70's with 1in9 will shoot 140 Berger VLD hunting bullets. I use Nosler 140 ballistic tips to hunt with.