My apologies for the delay on updating this thread, our whitetail rut is about to kick off and I've been focused on work and chasing deer.
Bedding, in my view, is more art than science. Though I've built some great-shooting rifles, I've never done a bedding job that I was truly happy with. This one was complicated by the fact that it was a) finished and b) came with pillars installed. Bedding an unfinished stock gives you far more flexibility in my experience-- as an example, I can let the bedding compound cure along the barrel channel before I sand it down to flush. Little things.
The best-shooting rifles that I've built were ones where I made and installed the pillars myself. I can set the pillars exactly where I want them and can torque the action down without any stress points. I make them where the ID of the pillar is a slip fit with the action screws so I know exactly where the barreled action is going to end up. Later, after the bedding is complete, I can ream out the pillar ID to provide relief. The ID on these pillars was huge, like over .300".
On this rifle, I taped the barrel with 20 mil tape, filled the voids with modeling clay and used electricians tape on the sides and bottom of the recoil lug. I did not tape the front of the lug-- Robert Gradous taught me to bed this way and, so far, I can't argue with the results. I also taped the portion of the action on both sides of the magazine port so that only the receiver ring and tang are in contact with the stock.
I used Marine-Tex and managed to get the epoxy in place without creating too big of a mess. Hoppes #9 is great for cleaning up bedding compound before it dries.
I waited 24 hours, broke the barreled action free and began the clean-up process. A milling machine is ideal for removing excess epoxy in places like the magazine well and trigger inlet.
The results were not as aesthetically pleasing as some that I've seen but I'm more concerned about the targets. I headed out to the farm to see how it shot. Using factory Precision Hunter 175gr. ELD-X ammo, I started by simply test-firing the rifle. It shot with no drama and the case looked like everything was kosher in terms of headspace, etc. I made some scope corrections and shot a three-shot group. Imagine my surprise when the group was strung vertically, well over an inch. I shot another three with the same result. Damn.
On the way home I did what I always do when I screw something up and called a my gunmaking Obi Wan. I was threatening to put the stock in the Bridgeport, rip out all of the Marin-Tex and start over but he talked me off of the ledge. In his view, the .020" clearance under the barrel wasn't enough and my barrel was likely slapping the stock during recoil. Using a 3/4" cobalt ball end mill, I relieved the barrel channel an additional .040" to provide some clearance. Then I cleaned everything up with sandpaper so that I can paint the area black in the future.
photo hostingIn between some quail and deer hunting this past weekend I pulled the rifle out and shot another three-shot group. I didn't measure it or photograph it but all three shots were touching in a nice triangular clover. Good enough to kill a deer with before I start hand loading and fine-tuning. Alabama's deer season runs until February 10 and I very much want to use this rifle in the field this season.
Once the season is over, I'll send the action off for black nitriding and have the barrel shank engraved appropriately. For now, it's all about the buck that I'm after.