Eremicus
<br> Sorry for the late response. Next time, rattle my chain a little.
<br>The guidelines that I use came about by way of trail and error and from some experiences of others who were doing this long before me. Guidelines are as follows:
<br>#1 or #2 contour, 21 inches max
<br>#3 contour, 22 inches max
<br>#4 contour , 24 inches max
<br>#5 contour, 26 inches max
<br>#6 and larger 28 inches to 30 inches.
<br>I know this will be cussed and discussed, so I will add a few of my own thoughts.
<br>Longer barrel lengths than what I have listed will shoot. It is usually easier to make the shorter barrel shoot. A person can look at that in one of two ways:#1...Charlie Sisk is too lazy or cheap to spend the time needed to develope loads using the longer barrel. #2 If it is easier for me to make the rifle shoot well with the shorter barrel, it will probably be easier for the customer also. Probably will shoot factory ammo a lot better.
<br>Folks on occasion will ask for a longer barrel and I give in. John Barsness and Rick Bin come to mind. The agreement was that if the rifle didnt shoot well, the barrel was cut to the proper length. The problem is I cant do this for everyone. If I tell a customer the longer barrel may not shoot well, then the first thing I hear is "well old so-and-so down at Joe's shop says he can make that length shoot. You dont know what you are doing or you could make it shoot too." Well I just cant go there. I need to make every rifle that comes from my shop shoot with little fuss. Folks can soon get over a inch or so less barrel but they never forget when they cant get any good groups. One thing is for sure and certain: no amount of careful maching can add stiffness to a barrel. All other things being equal, a stiffer barrel will shoot more accurately than one that is less stiff. Deflection is a better term when talking about barrels. Barrels aren't stiff like most folks think: they flex like wings on an airplane. The important thing is to get the deflection the same every time.
<br>Couple more thoughts:
<br>I wont use a barrel\caliber combination with less than .150 wall thickness at the muzzle. Yes folks do it all the time and yes sometimes barrels do split. There isnt enough money in this business for me to worry about someone getting hurt or some kind of law suit.
<br>I wont use a muzzle brake with less than .100 wall thickness. I have tried making them smaller and I blew several right off the end of the barrel.I tried to make them from aluminum too....save some weight....what a stupid idea....one of many for me....blew enough off that I could predict fairly close where they would land.....
<br>Dan Lilja is a very experinced barrel maker, maybe one of the best. There is some good information on his site about barrel stiffness and deflection.
<br>Look at Kreiger's site. Those guys are no dummies. They are probably just as sharp as Dan Lilja. Look at their barrel contours, rather look at the ones they wont make. Yes they make the Weatherby fluted barrels but Weatherby accepts the liability for them. Stainless and cold weather dont go well together.
<br>Opinions about this will vary, I am just relaying my experineces. You mileage may vary.
<br>Charlie