416 Rigby Custom Project - 24hourcampfire

I�ve been working towards building this 416 Rigby for about eight years. This project seems to have been snake bit time after time. Finally though, things are progressing smoothly.

Ralf Martini did the integral barrel work and Duane Wiebe will complete the metal work and stock the rifle. Here are a few photos of Duane�s work in progress:

The action started life as a Granite Mountain Arms double squarebridge magnum action. It�s a nice action but requires a lot of hand work to bring out the beauty and functionality. Step one � remove all the awful markings and add some hand detailing like a clip slot�

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I�ll be using clawmounts with the front mount dovetailed into the quarter rib. For this reason, I don�t need and don�t want the front squarebridge�so it�s a goner�

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The rear bridge is about a foot too high so it needs to come down a bit�

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Duane is adding extended tangs to the action and bottom metal. This is such a nice looking detail�

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wow...

No wonder those bastards get so much an hour, 5 minutes work and 55 minutes trying to take pics for someone...........grin

Looking good.

That's awesome. Weibe's pictures are wonderful, thanks for sharing.

Just one comment and please understand you totally get to choose....however on a DG gun a longer bolt handle is a good thing. If you have to lift it in a hurry...you don't want to miss it on the up stroke.

IMHO

Overall very nice work and I'm sure you will have fun with it when done. Are there plans for it?

Very nice pictures.
First picture of a Granite Mountain Arms action I have seen.
Sweet.

Originally Posted by LRF

Just one comment and please understand you totally get to choose....however on a DG gun a longer bolt handle is a good thing. If you have to lift it in a hurry...you don't want to miss it on the up stroke.

IMHO

Until the bolt handle raps your knuckles so hard your hand goes numb and you can't work the bolt. I've been there. Hacksaw solved the problem

i'm speachless...

wow !

that's going to be one beautiful and i'm sure exspensive rifle.

Forrest, when Shirley McLane and I are reincarnated, I want to come back as you. Beautiful work by a fine, fine craftsman.

That's a dandy!

Never knew the GMA actions required so much work.

Mike

Forrest,
My favorite pic is of the modeling clay scope mounts.

The blank is going to be an amazing stock. I bet you cant wait until Duane takes after it with his cutter head technique.

thats one nice looking piece you have going there. thanks for the photos.

Artistry in metal, as they say!

That is some top-notch rifle porn.

What a wonderful project. Duane is an amazing craftsman and you seem to know how to get the best out of him. I love the extended tang and the small changes made make a huge difference. I understand completely why you did it but I would have had a very hard time grinding that front bridge off.

I love the blank, nice layout but not too much of a good thing. You have a great eye for wood.

Thanks for sharing! I love these type threads.

Terry

Originally Posted by Woodhits

That is some top-notch rifle porn.

Triple X for sure! Don't get no better than that!

Awesome -- and the grain flow in that stock is perfect for a real kicker!

John

I recall Ross Seyfried qouting a British maker on seeing an American artiste: "A good man would make it with a file and shoot it in the white".

You have a good man, needless to say....

Thank You!

The project is wonderful, but what never ceases to amaze me is Duane Wiebe's workshop. All kinds of neat and ingenious tools and fixtures to get the job done.

LRF, I hear what you're saying about the length of the bolt handle. In my opinion, the trick is to get it long enough but no longer than neccesary. For me, the right length is when the bottom of the bolt knob is at or just below the top of the opening of the trigger guard bow.

As to plans for the rifle, I hope to get it to Tanzania within a year or two. I've got to get the rifle paid-off first though.

I'll try to respond to some of the other comments...

GMA actions are nice but they are shipped basically as they come off of the CNC machine. It takes some work to make them look right and function properly. They don't all need the amount of hand work that is being put into this action. Much of this work is admittedly just for show.

I'm really anxious to see how this stock blank looks as it's shaped. The photos don't really do justice to the highlights in the wood. The figure is nothing to brag about but the depth and complexity of the highlights is what caught my eye on this blank. I've never seen another blank like it.

22WRF, thanks for the reminder to find the ignore button over here. If only there were some way to convince you to put me on your "ignore" list.

Forrest awesome project as usual. THat is my favorite kind of wood. Nothing swirly and too fancy, pronounced mineral streaking, good color and good contrast. What can you tell us about the blank and if you don't mind sharing, what did it cost you.

Forrest,
Your rifles continue to amaze me. You do have a great eye for wood. I will be real anxious to see the wood as it comes together.
Butch

Originally Posted by Prewar70

That is my favorite kind of wood. Nothing swirly and too fancy, pronounced mineral streaking, good color and good contrast. What can you tell us about the blank and if you don't mind sharing, what did it cost you.

I wish I knew more about the history of this particular stock blank. I bought it from a British stockmaker (Paul Hodgins) who now lives in Arizona. Paul said the blank is at least 30 years old so it should be nice and stable now. He's been carting the stock around for most of that time but he's a shotgun specialist and this blank never found a suitable project. I remember paying about $1000 for the blank but it's been a while and I don't remember exactly. I do know it wasn't a terribly expensive blank but I've never seen another one like it at any price.

The striking feature about this blank is that though it's very dark it has a luminescence almost like quilted maple.

Hot off the press tonight are three photos that show the completed claw mount installation.

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There�s still a little detail work left to be done on the rings and release button but you get the picture.

For those of you who haven�t had the opportunity to use claw mounts, here�s a brief primer on how they work: When the scope is attached, grab the rear of the scope with your right hand positioned over the rear ring, push the release button with your right thumb and lift straight up on the scope, the scope will pivot up on the front ring until the �claws� releases and the scope comes free. To re-attach the scope, you would tilt the scope up and an angle to the rifle and slip the front claw into the dovetailed plate, push down on the rear of the scope and the claws will guide the rear ring down until the post slides into the square hole in the squarebridge, the spring loaded locking plate slides over and locks the scope into position. I could remove and re-attach the scope 10 times in the length of time it took to type this paragraph and the return to zero is excellent if not perfect.

Duane reports that the barreled action weighs 7 lb 5 oz without the scope and 8 lb 10 oz with the scope. The finished stock will probably weigh in the neighborhood of 2-1/2 lbs. This should give me a completed rifle that weighs 9-3/4 lbs without the scope and 11 lbs with the scope. Duane can probably get rid of 2-3 more oz of metal and wood. I wish I could get rid of another 6 or 8 oz but I don�t think I want to pay for the work that would entail.

Forrest,

Looking good! How are you going to trim it out?

forend tip?
engraving detail?
recoil pad
stock coloring (red stain)
grip cap
checkering style

forend tip?
I'm not certain yet, but right now I'm leaning towards going without a fore end tip.

engraving detail?
Pretty much the bare minimum of engraving. I want the "working gun" look but I'll have some really nice lettering and trim work done.

recoil pad?
I'm going to use a medium soft Galazan pad with a leather cover - either pigskin or sharkskin.

stock coloring?
This blank lost a lot of its red when Duane planed it which means it had been tinted previously. I'll have Duane tint it enough to get it back to the way it was.

grip cap?
Fisher trap door grip cap.

checkering style?
Probably a pretty traditional point pattern. I might have Duane do his flat top checkering just because it turned out so nicely on the pair of rifles he built for mufasa.

Originally Posted by ForrestB

Hot off the press tonight are three photos that show the completed claw mount installation.

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There�s still a little detail work left to be done on the rings and release button but you get the picture.

For those of you who haven�t had the opportunity to use claw mounts, here�s a brief primer on how they work: When the scope is attached, grab the rear of the scope with your right hand positioned over the rear ring, push the release button with your right thumb and lift straight up on the scope, the scope will pivot up on the front ring until the �claws� releases and the scope comes free. To re-attach the scope, you would tilt the scope up and an angle to the rifle and slip the front claw into the dovetailed plate, push down on the rear of the scope and the claws will guide the rear ring down until the post slides into the square hole in the squarebridge, the spring loaded locking plate slides over and locks the scope into position. I could remove and re-attach the scope 10 times in the length of time it took to type this paragraph and the return to zero is excellent if not perfect.

Duane reports that the barreled action weighs 7 lb 5 oz without the scope and 8 lb 10 oz with the scope. The finished stock will probably weigh in the neighborhood of 2-1/2 lbs. This should give me a completed rifle that weighs 9-3/4 lbs without the scope and 11 lbs with the scope. Duane can probably get rid of 2-3 more oz of metal and wood. I wish I could get rid of another 6 or 8 oz but I don�t think I want to pay for the work that would entail.

Thanks for the explanation there. I was scratching my head trying to figure those out.

George, it took me a while to figure out the claw mounts also. I used to think they were merely an historical oddity but I've come to view them as the ultimate scope mounting system on any rifle that requires quick scope release and dead nuts accurate return to battery.

Duane has started inletting the stock. His method is to inlet the metal into a squared stock blank and then to shape the blank to the metal and required stock dimensions.
Here�s a photo of the inletting for the extended top tang. I find it fascinating the mix of handwork and machine work Duane uses for inletting.

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And here�s the bottom tang after the initial inletting. The tang will be cut-off so that it just meets the grip cap (actually, it�s fitted under the grip cap).

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After the initial inletting, the metal is shaped with the stock by use of a file.

Very nice. This is my favorite part!

Keep'em coming.

Terry

Thanks Terry. This is my favorite part too.
The action inletting is done. Next comes the barrel and then the fun part...shaping the stock.

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Now I have a quandary. We have to deal with this stock flaw�
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I really wanted a rifle without an ebony fore end tip but if I go that route I�ll end up with an 8� forearm with a repair. To get rid of the flaw, the walnut will be cut back to 6-1/2� and Duane will add a 1-5/8� ebony tip and I�ll end up with an 8-1/8� forearm. Either way, the length will work out perfectly given the position of the sling swivel stud on the barrel. I just have to get used to thinking about this rifle with an ebony tip and that�s surprisingly hard to do because, for the last several years, I�ve always thought of it as having a plain forearm when finished.

Duane said he�ll repair the flaw and let me take a look before I have to decide. I guess the final decision will depend how it looks after the repair. Perfection is so tough to attain.
Am I fretting over this too much? Maybe I should just forget about it and go with an ebony tip.

I think rifles look a little naked without a forend tip. I really appreciate the old Hoffmans or G&Hs with a classic point checkering pattern and ebony tips. I know english forearms are short and very distinct looking to our American eyes, but is there a different type of styling you could use for the ebony. Maybe English styled taperred up to the barrel. Can't describe it right but you know what I mean. Maybe that gives you a few ideas. Anyways, nothing wrong with an ebony tip other than it's a change of plans for you.

Forrest,

While I have no doubts that Duane can repair the flaw, if it was my rifle in the works, I'd cut it and fit an ebony tip and never look back.

Tom

I like the ebony tips but I know what you mean about not wanting one on every rifle. Chic Worthing is just about finished with one for me. I had him leave the tip off it. I thought the blank had enough going for it that it would stand out plenty without a tip.

I've had to deal with flaws like that before. With a little care it's hard to see where the problems are.

Sometimes things aren't as bad as they seem. I bet Duane can make it like it never happened.

Terry

Tom,
Thanks for your thoughts. No one has spent more time examining custom rifles than you have. Using an ebony tip is an easy fallback position but I already have one nice 416 Rigby with an ebony tip and I'd like this one to be a bit different.

Like you and Terry said, Duane has solved my problem (or at least the one related to the stock blank).

Before�
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After�

I can live with this. I wish it didn�t have the pin knots but they�re not so bad that it makes me want to cut the foreend and use an ebony tip.

This is pretty much the look I want�just your run-of-the-mill pre-War Rigby.

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Throw it away and start over :^)

Terry

Ok it looks good w/o the tip

but here's a Hoffman just for comparison

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Originally Posted by TC1

Throw it away and start over :^)

Terry

This was Duane's idea from the moment he started the inletting. He's convinced now it's a stick of old Bastogne. Duane said it's going to be a beautiful, rock-solid stock but its a bear to work with hand tools.

Prewar, you'll eventually come around.

One last photo for the night.
Duane is on a roll now...

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I guess he could stop now and call it an Art Alphin Coil-Chek design.

What I did was stuffed shavings into the cracks and also stuffed in epoxy glue (crazy glue would work plumb swell)...sorta "wet sand" and most voids and defects are pretty well disguised and filled up....in the old days, they used shellac...same idea!...maybe not as permanent ? don't know!

Prewar 70...Like your post! I find an amazing thing...the further we go back in stock/rifle design, the prettier they get. What was beautiful 100 years ago, will be beautiful 100 years from now!

Looks great!

Terry

Here are today�s photos:

First, the scrap wood from using a band saw to quickly trim the blank down.

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Second, Duane introduces the stock blank to his Tasmanian beaver for some quick and dirty shaping.

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The result is a roughly shaped stock ready for what Duane calls, �the real work�.

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Man...that's going to be a real sweetheart when all is said and done.

Looking like a spectacular piece. I sure like this blueprint a lot better than most seen here which are little more than a model 700 with a bowling ball melted around the action and barrel. Keep the pictures coming!

PS, I DO hope you plan to actually take this fine piece hunting...

Originally Posted by DuaneWiebe

Prewar 70...Like your post! I find an amazing thing...the further we go back in stock/rifle design, the prettier they get. What was beautiful 100 years ago, will be beautiful 100 years from now!

Truer words were never spoken. This rifle will look good for centuries also.

Forrest

Many thanks for posting all the pictures showing the steps in your new rifle. It seems like every time someone does a thread of pictures and description of the steps in building their rifle a person can learn something new. This thread is very, very interesting with all those little details you are having Duane do for you. I myself like the no forend tip look you are having done and am glad Duane was able to repair it so well.

I always hold my breath when a stock is turned from a blank for fear of a flaw that may be hidden inside. I have been lucky so far in that all that showed up were repairable and didn't compromise the integrity of the stock. I have seen some stocks where others were not so lucky.

Again thanks for taking the time to show the building of this rifle. I, like others have said before me, appreciate it.

I'd pay money to watch Duane turn a blank into a stock with that cutter. I think that's just amazing.

I've learned so much by watching these threads. A little about "how to's" but mostly about what I like in a custom rifle.

Thanks Duane and Forrest for taking that exta time to show the rest of us how it's done.

Terry

"just your run-of-the-mill pre-War Rigby"

Not often that "run-of-the-mill" and "pre-war Rigby" cross paths in the same sentence.

Very beautiful Forrest. I would expect no less from you or Duane though. Seen a few of yours and several of Duane's examples and all are really impressive.

Between this thread and Terry's Mini-Mauser thread, they keep me going forward with my 1910 Mexican 7x57 project. I've just begun as I picked up the action early December and am waiting for Duane to make some bottom metal (hint, hint). And of course waiting for economics to start heading north again. Then we're off to the races, if all goes as planned. It'll be along the same lines as your rifle. An early Rigby replica. A svelt little 7mm hunting rifle, not a safe queen. Well not completely. For sure I hope a piece that someone in my family will be happy to have left to them whem my time is up.

Thanks for the continued inspiration,

David

Terry and David it makes me feel better to know there are other folks out there that appreciate this stuff as much as I do. Thanks for your comments and encouragement.

Here are the most recent photos and comments from Duane:
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An eye injury put me out of commission for a few days but I�m back to work on Forrest�s rifle.

I like to make a slight concave edge for a tight fit.

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I drill a hole as close to the radius of the nib as I dare.

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Recoil pad is ground down to almost final surface�

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Carefully find the center line and "crazy glue" parts in place so you can easily scribe outline.

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Instant glues have a real place in a gun shop...here, I have a temporary handle for positioning and fitting the silver name shield.

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Forrest,
You need to bring it along this fall just so I can cop a feel on it. It is an amazingly beautiful rifle. I hope it is everything you hoped it would be.
Bill

Originally Posted by M1Tanker

I hope it is everything you hoped it would be.

They never are.
It's an illness but the good thing is there's always another project that brings the hope of achieving perfection.

Looking nice.

Terry

Forrest,

Thanks for letting us follow along. Very nice indeed !

I may have to contact you for guidance on my own project because I suffer from the same disease !

T

Originally Posted by BigT

Forrest,

I may have to contact you for guidance on my own project because I suffer from the same disease !

T

You get talking to Forrest and you will find out he is a very bad influence. My wife holds him responsible for the loss of a significant portion of my paycheck to cover my custom gun addiction.

But in all honesty - you wont find anyone with better taste when it comes to custom rifles than Forrest. He was a huge help and very influncial on my custom M70 that was finally finished a couple weeks ago.

The photo of the day from Duane:
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After inletting, solder a small wood screw to the back of the plate, then epoxy everything nice and tight..electricians tape works well.

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Forrest,
Duane's work is, as always, incredible. I very much like the entire project. Well, except for the black tape, but you were always the odd sort...

By the way, when is the raffle for this one?

Dave, I hope you�ve been doing well. I'll admit, it looks a little better without the tape.

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There will be no raffle for this rifle. It�ll either be perfect or I�ll burn it � it�s been too much trouble.

Forrest,
Thank you very much for sharing these photos of your project. It's great to see the detail behind the great work. Oh, and congrat's on a fine rifle!

Huntr, you are most welcome. I first got hooked on custom rifles when I was young because of only a couple of work-in-progress photos in one of Jim Carmichel's early books. No telling what kind of frenzy I could have worked myself into with all the great photos available now.

I should have listened to tsquare when he said to cut off the knot in the foreend and use an ebony tip. It's finally come down to that, the more Duane shaped it, the worse the flaw looked. Ultimately, I had to give in to practicality. In the end, it was a good move...look at the split that came out of that knot when Duane cut off the tip.

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Here's a photo showing the full profile before the forearm tip was cut.

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Quote

Ultimately, I had to give in to practicality.

Well, there goes another completely fine custom rifle plan all to hell. Nothing left to do but finish this one up and start planning the next!

That really is a damn shame. I like the plain all business look that rifle has. It really reminds me of the ones done 100years ago. Nice, beautiful but practical.

Off subject, Where are those .270 BRNO pictures? I've been dying a slow death here ya know!

Yeah! I knew deep down you really wanted the ebony fore-end.

Forrest,

Sorry that the flaw was unrepairable. Some rifles do look just great without a tip, and your's would have been one of them. It won't be a slouch with a nice ebony tip though. The rifle is going to be magnificent, with or without a tip.

Tom

Well, here it is with the ebony tip.
(It's horrible, I know.)

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After the first coat of sealer...

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And a close-up...

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Progress slows down now.

looks like a winner to me.

Me too!

Tom

Wow.......

That stock is absolutely incredible. Even in the photos you can see that the figure in the wood is going to have an impressive 3D effect.

I know you are disappointed about having to go to the ebony tip. But it is still a beautiful stock that is full of class.

Forrest,

Oh yea, Daddy like! Even better with the forend. How are you guys finishing the furniture blue or case color?

Many Thanks

HBH

Forrest,

I really like that blank. Of course Duane's stock lines are probably my favorites. But the blank, IMHO, is about perfect. Nice figure, but not over the top. I'll have to get with you when I start looking for my blank. You alwasy seem to find the best ones.

I can't wait to see this one completed. Even better, to see it lying along side a big dagga boy freshly taken by said rifle.

David

Amen!

TT

Very nice Forrest. Grats

That rifle looks better and better every time I check in! I love the long tang more every time I see it.

Here's a weekend update from Duane:

"Not much to see here, just applying finish,"

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I guess I can learn to live with the ebony tip.

Wow...

WOW, is right...I hope my .404 build turns out half as nice as this!

Originally Posted by BigUglyMan

That rifle looks better and better every time I check in! I love the long tang more every time I see it.

I couldn�t agree more about the tangs. They are such a classic looking addition to a big bore custom. Duane�s extended tang work is as good as any I�ve ever seen.
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That is so nice. You think the extended tang would look out of place on a smaller rifle?

Terry

Looking pretty good for a truck gun!!!!

Originally Posted by TC1

That is so nice. You think the extended tang would look out of place on a smaller rifle?

I don't think it would, as long as it's scaled down the correct amount. Too thick would look clunky but if the rifle is well executed with good wood it should look outstanding, like it does on this one.

Awesome rifle!!!

Forrest, thanks for sharing the pics etc. Duane's work is outstanding!! It's interesting to see this come together.

Originally Posted by M1Tanker

Looking pretty good for a truck gun!!!!

Bill, it's definitely going to be a truck gun...
and here's the truck!

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Terry, I think B.U.M. nailed it. So long as the tangs are narrowed enough they should look just fine on a light rifle. My guess is that the extended tangs could work with a grip circumference as small as 4-3/4" inch.

Sendero (the other Terry), How have you been? Haven't seen you around in a while. Maybe I just haven't been paying attention. Getting the photos and Duane's commentary makes the project so much more fun. I had one rifle built by a different gunsmith and I only heard from him once or twice during the project - only when he was trying to sell me something or another. One day the rifle just showed up on my doorstep unannounced; other than the action and caliber, it was nothing like I had ordered. The guy built the rifle he wanted, not the rifle I wanted. Needless to say, that was the last project with that particular builder. Luckily there are a handful of builders who don't mind sharing their talents and workmanship with the rest of us.

Doing good Forrest. Haven't been posting much but I always like these types of threads.

It's pretty amazing seeing these rifles come together with a description of the hand work and machine work.

The last two months have entailed a lot of finish coats for the stock and waiting, waiting, waiting. The metal work went out for some simple engraving a few weeks ago and just arrived back in Duane's shop today.

The engraver, Charles Lee, did a great job of giving me just what I had asked for - a 1930's working rifle look.

Here's a peek at Charles' work:

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The stippling and handcut border lines look deceptively simple. It's amazing how many hours are involved in building a rifle that is supposed to look "unadorned".

I absolutely love the stippling. The engraving is subtle and very nice. I'm looking for another piece of wood if you have a spare.
Butch

Looks fantastic!

Butch, I have a bunch of blanks here. Some are earmarked for projects I have in mind but others are not. I'll send you an email and we can talk it over.

Forrest,
You are going to have to bring that on our hunt this winter so I can slobber all over it. Absolutely beautiful.

Wow, that is one fine looking rifle you have there! Thanks for sharing the progress of the build with all of us. Very interesting!

Duane is getting close to being finished with the rifle. The bluing is finished. The stock is now checkered and Duane is putting a leather cover on the recoil pad. Here are some photos of the checkering. It�s very traditional English style flat top checkering. It took a long time for flat top checkering to grow on me. I�ve seen a few rifles with really nice flat top checkering and I liked them a lot but this is the first time I�ve asked for flat top checkering on a rifle of my own.

Here are a few photos that show some detail:

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The next set of photos should be of the completed rifle.

Outstanding. How does flattop checkering handle compared to standard checkering?

Like many here, I am anxious to see the finished project. This one will be stunning. Thanks for the updates.

Originally Posted by Oregon45

Outstanding. How does flattop checkering handle compared to standard checkering?

Well, it feels "different". Flat top checkering has a surprising amount of "grip" to it that I think comes from all the crisp edges. I've been told that it was first popular on straight grip shotguns with double triggers because the checkering allowed for easier sliding of the trigger-pulling hand. Flat top checkering probably does release a little quicker than the more common diamond checkering.

Safariman, I'm glad you've enjoyed the photos. I've certainly enjoyed sharing them. No one is more anxious than I am to see the finished product. I'll post the final photos as soon as I can take them.

Forrest,

Thanks for sharing another project. This one is indeed turning into another very fine rifle !

T

Forrest,
I'm like you. The flat top checkering is very nice. I am really looking forward to the finished rifle.
Butch

Forrest,

While I'm not a big fan of flat-topped checkering, done right, the way Duane does it, I must admit that it is attractive. Another wonderful rifle. I'll anxiously await the photos of the finished rifle.

Tom

You and me both, Tom. Duane says another week or so and it'll be ready for shipping.

Do you have a book or other project in the works right now?

Forrest,

I've always got a book or two in some sort of progress. Alas, I don't have anything near finished though. Project wise, I have a few custom projects ongoing, my latest should come in by the end of the week. It has been an interesting project.

It started with an article idea. I thought I'd get a factory rifle, scope it, and take it to the range right out-of-the-box. I figured I'd shoot some groups with it, using factory ammo, and record the results. I'd then sent the rifle off to Hill Country Rifles for their accurizing package. When HCR finished with it, I'd take it back to the range, fires some groups with factory ammo, compare the results and write the story. I did all that. The rifle I used was borrowed from USRAC and was a Model 70 Classic Featherweight in 30-06.

The out-of-the-box results weren't bad at all, averaging about 1.5 MOA. When I got it back from HCR, using Hornady 180 grain factory loads, it was grouping .5 MOA! I was so pleased with it that I decided I couldn't return the rifle, so I bought it from USRAC. Please note for you disbelievers, I said BOUGHT the rifle. I did receive a writers discount, which is just about wholesale.

I took it to Africa twice, once as my plains game rifle on a buffalo hunt in Tanzania, and as my only rifle on a trip to Namibia. I shot eland, gemsbok, springbok, East African impala, warthog, Grant's gazelle, plus a Burchell's and a Hartmann's Mountain zebra with the rifle. As a result, I decided to have the rifle spiffed up a bit.

The factory metal, with the exception of the bottom metal, was retained. I did add a Blackburn bottom metal set for it. Todd Johnson did all the metal polishing and slow rust bluing on the metal. Gary Goudy custom stocked the rifle using a stick of New Zealand walnut that was over twenty-five year old. It is not a flashy stick, but it is a very good piece with perfect grain flow, excellent color, and some nice figure. Gary checkered it in a rendition of Al Biesen's fleur-de-lis pattern at my request. It is finished and in the mail to me as I write this. I should have it Friday or Saturday. I'm anxious.

Tom

Tom,
Please post a teaser photo.
Butch

Butch,

I'd be happy to when it comes in, if I could just figure out how to do so. When I have computer questions, I ask my granddaughter for advice. That tells you how computer literate I am. I have a couple in-process photos here of the stock work. I also have a photo hosting account. I can't seem to get the photos from the host to the site. I can e-mail them to someone who might agree to post them for me.

Cheers,

Tom

Tom,
I'd be happy to do it. It took me 3 years to learn. My Grandson taught me.
Butch
[email protected]

TSquare

That is a great story about how you took that new rifle to Africa and shot all of those animals with it. But also kind of sad in a way becasue you have written so much about the Miller Rifle that you basically took everywhere. Is the Miller .270 now officially retired?

As for photos. First thing you want to do is get an account with PHOTOBUCKET. Easy to do, and its FREE.

22WRF,

Actually, semi-retired is more correct. I still take the old Miller on a few hunts each year. Last year, I had it in New Mexico for pronghorn, and in Sonora, Mexico for Coues deer. Alas, I didn't fire a shot on either trip. I didn't get a chance at a good, mature animal on either hunt.

The barrel on that rifle has about had it. Instead of .5 MOA groups like it used to produce, about the best I can get now is 1.5 MOA groups, still good enough for hunting, but failing fast. I'm hesitant to rebarrel it for sentimental reasons, so may fully retire it before too much longer.

I have a Photobucket account, and have photos uploaded to the account. I just can't figure out how to get them from there to the fire.

Tom

...

The workmanship and general quality of this build is pure flat out sex. Something I'll never be able to afford or carry, but man, it is phenomenal to see such a fantastic rig as it's being built. Great stuff all the way around. thanks for sharing all the details.

Guys,

Butch was kind enough to post the "teaser" photos of my latest project rifle that I've talked about on this thread, on a thread called tsquare's 30-06. I should have the finished rifle in my hand later in the week or the first of next week, and I'll prevail on Butch to post a couple pix of the finished rifle.

Many thanks to Butch.

Tom

Tom, my 416 is finally finished and it sounds like I�ll get my rifle just about the same time you�ll get your 30-06. It looks pretty nice to me. I�m anxious to try it out�first at the range and then on something big and mean.
My new big gun�
[Linked Image]

I hope you guys have enjoyed this as much as I have. It�s been a lot of fun to share this project with all of you.
I�ll try to take some photos of my own once I get my hands on the rifle.

Forrest,

Wonderful. I'll be very anxious to see the finished rifle photos. I'm hoping the '06 comes in tomorrow.

Tom

Forrest,

When I saw your comment that the rifle was finished, for some reason the photos didn't show up.Hence, my comment about being anxious to see the finished rifle. This morning when I checked the thread, there were the photos. What a gorgeous piece. It sure doesn't get much better than that.

You guys are costing me a lot of money.
Butch

Outstanding.
Congratulations Forrest.
Duane impeccible work as usual.

Michael J

Originally Posted by ForrestB

Originally Posted by Oregon45

Outstanding. How does flattop checkering handle compared to standard checkering?

Well, it feels "different". Flat top checkering has a surprising amount of "grip" to it that I think comes from all the crisp edges. I've been told that it was first popular on straight grip shotguns with double triggers because the checkering allowed for easier sliding of the trigger-pulling hand. Flat top checkering probably does release a little quicker than the more common diamond checkering.

Safariman, I'm glad you've enjoyed the photos. I've certainly enjoyed sharing them. No one is more anxious than I am to see the finished product. I'll post the final photos as soon as I can take them.

The "grip" is maintained but it has a smoother feel when handling the rifle quickly in the field. My Rigby .275 has the same checkering.

JW

Forrest, Wow..... that thing is a wonderous beauty, for sure! I am sure that you are proud, and rightly you should be.

MARK

Perfect would descibe it best IMHO! The ebony tip is a must for a classic rifle! Now we need a picture with you and a dangerous game animal down with the rifle!