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What major parts if any, will interchange between a 600 and a model 7 or even 700? Factory or aftermarket....things like triggers, stocks, bolts, and so on. Anyone know?
Barrels
That's good to know. I'm torn right now as to whether to put a .358 win tube on or make it into a 6.8 for the kid to use. It may come down to which takes less fuss to do, then again maybe not.
Originally Posted by pabucktail
That's good to know. I'm torn right now as to whether to put a .358 win tube on or make it into a 6.8 for the kid to use. It may come down to which takes less fuss to do, then again maybe not.



Biggest problem you have is the bolt face. If the face is .473" like the .308, then the .358 will work well. (With a simple rebarrel) But the 6.8 has a bastard case head size. One will need a .378" bolt face (.222 size) and have to open it up and install a Sako extractor. by the time you do that (And rebarrel), you might just as well buy another rifle in 6.8. Remington made a short run of M-700 Lt tacticals in 6.8 if you can find one.
The rifle currently wears a factory barrel that started out as a .35 rem and got re-chambered to .358 win. It's proven to be so disgustingly inaccurate that I must do something! As far as the .358 goes, I haven't been so excited about a round I've never actually used on game since I was a 12 year old lusting for a .270.

The problem with the 6.8 is that the original specs Remington sent it out with suck. A combination of short throat and wrong rate of twist resulted in lackluster performance from the round initially. Now though it's been squared away with a longer throat and appropriate rates of twist. The Remington rifle had the wrong everything, and the Ruger has a less than ideal twist and chamber, but doesn't totally suck. Actually I think it's cool that a good cartridge with lots of potential has actually succeeded despite the fact Remington introduced it. It seems like any round Remington introduces has the kiss of death. Anyway, a 6.8 is the perfect round for a mini-mauser walk about gun or for a kid's first centerfire. If only CZ would make it properly in the 527!

What about stocks, can a model 7 stock be made to fit a 600?
I've found that the problem with using a M7 stock with a 600 action is the rear tang area. The M7 uses a 700 type rear tang and the 600 uses the XP type. It just never "looks right".
If you're looking to replace a 600 stock, there are not too many options...

1. McMillan. Expensive but worth it. You'll need to bed it, buy a 700 ADL triggerguard. The TG will have to be glued into the stock and either turned "backward" so that the small hole is at the rear or D&T the rear tang to the specs of the foward action screw.

2. Richard's Microfit Stocks. Laminate, Claro walnut plus a few more wood options. They are available in many shapes. I prefer the Classic 102 or the Modern Classic. You'll have to bed it, do A LOT of wood removal, and seal the stock. They inlet for the OEM or ADL TG.

3. HS Precision used to make a decent stock for the 600 but I'm not sure if they still do.

4. Reshape your present stock...

If you go with #2 or #4, look up CVMW here at the 'fire or go to Numrich Gun Parts and buy a metal replacement TG for your 600. They are well worth the $.

RH
The HS Precision web page still lists a stock for the 600/660.
Pa, Here are a couple of pictures of my 600 358 Win with 21" Barrel. The scope is a Tasco Titan 1.5 X 6. Scope is a little on the big side but it works. Mounted with Tally Quick release bases and rings.
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Ken
I totally forgot about Richards Microfit, and I did up one of their classic 102 laminates for my wife's 721 once. I'll probably go the Mcmillan route since I know and like them. There's a severe lack of HS Precision stocks around here to handle. Thanks for the heads up on the tang. I'll have to take a look at a model 7 and note te differences.

I think the bolt handle will have to go. I don't mind the dog leg as much as I mind the fact that it barely clears a small leupold scope and doesn't at all if you have butler creek scope covers on.
Ken, great looking rig! Did you get that scope base direct from Talley? That's exactly what I want, so I can use a scope or open sights. Do you have any pics showing the entire gun?
I'll take more pictures.
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Remington 600 358 Win. The tally 1 piece base and rings were on a Remington 673 350 mag I had purchased. I think you can order them from Midway. Expensive !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ken
Ken,

I think it's cruel that you show that rifle off... I don't know what possessed me to ever sell it. frown That's one of the few that I regret parting with...

Edw
I'm sorry ! I can't get over that beautiful blue finish. I had a friend finish the stock for me and it was too slippery. Then I had an 82 year old German gun smith up here in the mountains do the checkered part. It's wrap-around check on the forend. I didn't even fire the first 3 shots. I had a friend shoot it first. Factory Winchester ammo put 1 big hole at 50 yards. Took a big doe with it so it got blood.

Ken.
Originally Posted by himmelrr
If you're looking to replace a 600 stock, there are not too many options...

1. McMillan. Expensive but worth it. You'll need to bed it, buy a 700 ADL triggerguard. The TG will have to be glued into the stock and either turned "backward" so that the small hole is at the rear or D&T the rear tang to the specs of the foward action screw.

2. Richard's Microfit Stocks. Laminate, Claro walnut plus a few more wood options. They are available in many shapes. I prefer the Classic 102 or the Modern Classic. You'll have to bed it, do A LOT of wood removal, and seal the stock. They inlet for the OEM or ADL TG.

3. HS Precision used to make a decent stock for the 600 but I'm not sure if they still do.

4. Reshape your present stock...

If you go with #2 or #4, look up CVMW here at the 'fire or go to Numrich Gun Parts and buy a metal replacement TG for your 600. They are well worth the $.

RH



I have the CVMW bottom metal on my .222. It is a quality piece and a huge upgrade over the factory plastic that are all broken (bad plastic in those days??). The only issue I have with the CVMW bottom metal is that the web where the screw goes through was so thick that the factory screw was too short. I couldn't find an after market one so I had to make one with a cap screw on my lathe. I think he might had changed his program to take a little more metal out of the hole. I could have done this, but didn't want to ruin to anodizing.
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