I need to replace a Jlock on a Rem700.

PT&G has complete assemblies available with aluminum shrouds, which is what I will get. However they offer 3 types of actual firing pins: steel, fluted steel, and aluminum.

I want to save weight but have an absolutely reliable pin. What are the pros and cons of each type? What are your experiences?

I have swapped out a couple J-Lockers with these.

http://www.davidtubb.com/speedlock-rem-700-long-action-complete-assembly

Dig the steel fluted...

W

Ive had them all they all worked. They are all harder than a primer The only problem I ever had was with a aluminum PT&G shroud "dragging" on the top of the tang. A file fixed that in 2 minutes though.

I have the fluted steel PTG pin. I chose it over the steel for reduced weight and supposed reduced lock time. I chose it over the aluminum because I heard some opinions that dry firing with an aluminum pin wouldn't be best.

I'm sure they all work fine.

IMO the fluted steel is the best way to go, if PT&G does not have what you need try GRE-TAN.

Yes you have to replace the entire assembly....firing pin,shroud,spring,cocking piece. the J-Lock was a debacle....you would think Remingon would have learned their lesson but a few years later they tried to re-design their trigger

I have several of the alloy ones. They work fine and save a bit of weight. I don't dry fire on an empty chamber though.

I dry fire a lot on an empty chamber. Will the fluted steel hold up fine?

I have not had any issues dry firing with my fluted pin and an empty chamber. I've only had the pin about a year, in the same time this barrel probably has around 800 or 1000 rounds through it. A safe bet would be 2000 to 2500 dry fires on an empty chamber in the same timeframe, as it's pretty normal for me to dry fire a time or three (some days up to five times) between shots at the range to slow my rate of fire down.

Edit...but it's only been a year.

That sounds good--I'm probably going to go with the fluted steel.

Have you noticed that it speeds up the lock time any?

A lighter pin will rduce lock time but it may increase the chance of primer "blanking" (cratering). This is usually only an issue when using small rifle primers (6BR, 223, 6.5x47L etc.). GD

I'd NOT go aluminum.

Was waiting for that one to appear. Steered me away...

A picture says a 1000 words.

Has anyone had a fluted steel pin break/bend?

Fluted steel !

Gre-Tan

You will not be disappointed.

I can be tough on [bleep]. To be fair, they sent me a replacement (steel) as quick as I'm typing this. I sent them back the busted one.

As you see the aluminum pin has a steel tip. 99% of the shooters cannot take advantage of a quicker lock time. Remember a lighter pin needs a heavier spring. My BR rifles have a tungsten weight added to the firing pin.

i went gre-tan fluted steel after my due diligence research

Does anyone know the weight of a GreTan versus a PTG, both in fluted steel?

I read at some time PTG makes Gretan's fluted steel pins, so I would guess the weight is very close.

Joel,
I believe that you are right.

The GreTan fluted steel is listed as a one-piece unit with no welds.

Is the PTG fluted steel a one-piece unit, or does it have a body and a tip?

I wouldn't have a clue.

Okay, I found the information.

PTG is 2-piece for both fluted steel and aluminum/steel.
GreTan is 1-piece fluted steel but 2-piece aluminum/steel.
GreTan claims his 2-piece unit has a special joint that allows for dry firing with no problems.

Weight savings is 1/2 ounce using aluminum/steel.

Butch,
Theuse of a heavier spring is an attempt to replace the inertia of the heavy pin with spring pressure to prevent cratering. It doesn't always work out so well. The heavy spring may cause the pin to over penetrate the primer cup and bounce back when the pin shoulder strikes the stop in the bolt body. This takes away all support from the primer cup and cratering is worsened.
A spring, when compressed, represents stored energy. The firng pin is the means to transfer this energy to the primer. The lighter pin will travel at a higher velocity and make up for the reduction in weight. GD

Butch, I have never heard of this, how did you add it ???

Was having trouble with my BR gun a couple years ago and Dwight Scott put in a stiffer spring and it seemed to cure the problem but adding weight sounds interesting.

greydog, dont think your entire analysis is correct concerning cratering, the biggest cause of cratering is improper or excess clearance between the firing pin and the firing pin hole in the boltface.

Boatanchor, Dwight Scott did both of my Firing pins.
GD, I understand your point, but the rifles with a closefitting firing pin to hole and with a .062 diameter pretty much eliminates primer blanking.

The .062 diameter is certainly beneficial in stopping blanking but the difference in pin and hole is less important than one might think as long as the hole is not too large. To clarify: If you have a .063 hole and a .058 pin, things will probably work out alright. If you have a .082 hole and a .081 pin, blanking is likely unless the pin is heavy enough to support the cup. In other words, it is the reduced diameter of the hole which is the important part of the equation. Reducing the area upon which the pressure can act is the important thing. Alternatively, increasing the inertia (mass) of the pin will also help. Of course, this also increases lock time. This is not too say that one should take a cavalier attitude toward pin diameter or clearance; only that clearance isn't as important as other factors.
The post-64 Model 70 has always been a bit of a problem because of the large diameter hole in the bolt face. Making the pin tip larger to minimize clearance will do little or nothing to improve the situation; especially if one is shooting small rifle primers. I've been through this quite a bit in making 6BR's on Model 70 actions. Of course, the problem was made a lot worse by the pressure levels to which the "F" class guys like to load.
I once had a Model 70 target rifle in 30/06. This was built on a 1965 Model 70 action and shot very well. Primers cratered a little but it wasn't a problem until I started loading a new lot of Federal primers. About every other shot pierced. The pin was a bit loose in the bolt so I made another pin which was a close fit. No change. I bushed the bolt and made a .062 pin and the problem disappeared. The point is, it wasn't the clearance between the pin and hole which was the culprit but the diameter of the hole. More area equals more load and the pin inertia and spring are not able to support the cup if this load is too high.
Of course there are some other factors which can enter into it. Firing pin tip shape is one, protrusion is another. In both cases the pin may weaken the cup to a greater extent making it unable to contain the pressure.
In many cases, a bolt face is bushed and a new firing pin tip fitted and the thinking is that it is the reduced clearance of the new parts which cured the blanking. Not so; it is the reduced diameter which cured the blanking. The reduced clearance is just a happy result of good workmanship but plays a small part in fixing the blanking problem. GD

GD,
I don't think we disagree.

Greg himself recommended that I do the "fluted steel" and skip the "lite steel" for a cold-weather hunting rifle.