I've got a .375, but am looking to have a new one built on a model 70 action and an echols stock.

My question is around accuracy - many of the high end hunting smiths will guarantee 1" with a custom load, while many of the "precision rifle" smiths will often commit to .75" with factory, some will go to .5".

I realize the "precision rifle" smiths are generally doing this with .308, .260, 300WM, etc. But I've been wondering if any of you know someone who could build an absolute tack driver .375 H&H?

Don't want a very heavy one, built to carry and hunt, all purpose Africa rifle - buffalo in close, or gemsbok at 300 yds - and yes I know 1" is fine for both animals, but like the rest of you I'm a gun nut and am looking to see if a tackdriver can be built in .375.

Appreciate any ideas, suggestions.

Thanks

Ive had 375's that would stack 3-4 shots in a ragged hole at 100 yards;and hold sub MOA to 400.

That good enough?

The rifles were all pre 64 M70's in 375 H&H. One had a light contour Krieger barrel.

But with a Krieger or Bartlein tube what you want is not hard.

I pay no attention to accuracy "guarantees". Many times accuracy guarantees that don't materialize are the shooters fault anyway.

There are smiths who can build what you want.

I believe jorgeI has a 375 that's been known to cut a single ragged hole. May be mis-remembering that tho.

I'd think that if you chose a good smith, regardless of cartridge - the rifle should be put together well.

Most of it ends up being the nut behind the trigger anyway.

Had one that CAS cobbled together years ago. Sold it here, regret it.

As to accurate smiths - for some reason I always remember Mark Pendrod's name coming up when people talked the larger cartridges and tuning a CRF to run them for critters that bite back.

I think I'd start there.

I have never owned a .375 that wouldn't shoot an inch or better. In fact, I think all of mine have been 3/4" or better with most loads.

I agree. The 3/8" bore is easy to get to shoot well. Kind of like the 9.3x62mm...

I think Jorge is a damn good shot too, from what I've seen from the targets he's posted.... It's not just his 375 that shoots well..

I'd be more worried about where that 1st. shot is going to go. My 375H&H is very predictable in that respect. You could check with Gene Simillion. Seeing how you want it to go into an echols stock, he's the guy I'd be calling..

I agree with Bob. Seen it many times..

Thanks guys. Gene just built me a matched left and right hand pair of 30-06's. Big fan of his work.

Then why you looking anywhere else?

Gene will be getting this from me shortly......when I get off my arse to box it up.

That's going to be bad azzed in an echols legend Bob... No other refinements either. Just glass bed a damn good rifle in a damn good stock and you have a winning combination. Hey, gunner might be looking for a wood stock, so don't throw that one away...

I already spoke with Gunner.

The stock is spoken for.

I think he knows it is not original.

Those would be cool to see.

Sorry Bob, I didn't know it wasn't original. Looks like it's original to the rifle, but the whole rifle is not pictured. Nice looking rifle nonetheless.. Should be mucho better all the way around with a good Mcmillan on it, regardless.. I'm still very leery about using a factory wood stocked pre 64 375H&H. I've seen a few of them split behind the tang.

Whoever did the stock opened up a standard stock to the 375 barrel contour. Perfectly functional and I suspect the guy wanted a lower comb for a receiver sight use.

I knew this when I bought it. I just wanted the metal.

I'll second that!

I'm glad gunner talked to you about this. He was wondering how the freefloat and barrel channel would look if this were done. I guess that would also depend on who did the work too.

Mark Penrod

I sent Hill Country Rifles my over the counter Winchester 375 stainless to do thier accurazing job. I got it back and it will shoot clover leafs all day long with Federal ammo. Pretty cheap work to get it that way. It was originally shooting 1.5 groups

Another vote for Gene Simillion. It will be accurate and in addition feed and eject perfectly. He can also set it up to hold 4 down in the magazine of the Echols stock which is nice with a .375.

What contour and length barrel would you guys recommend? I'll probably go Bartlein.

I've owned 3 Pre 64 375's and shot a couple more and every one of them would easily shoot under an inch with no load development, just book loads and Hornady 270 Spire points and 4831 powder. Cloverleafs every time.
That is, if you could stay at the bench long enough to shoot a few groups.....

These are truly one of the great rifles every developed which brings me to the point I'm slowly walking around. The 375 needs a bit of weight to be shootable for most shooters as the recoil is on the threshhold of what most can tolerate. Me included, which is why I don't own one any more, besides the fact I won't probably make it back to Africa any time soon.

If it were me, I would be looking at a barrel contour very close to the Winchester Pre 64 contour. Enough weight forward to hold and sight well, and give a little recoil absorption but not so heavy you can't carry it. A buddy built one on a 300 H&H action I sold him and it shoots as you would expect and looks great. If you cut down the weight much, IMHO you will pay for it and not enjoy shooting it.

Looking forward to seeing the final result.

Bob

Would rather have a .375 that feeds,fires and extracts with no problems. A rifle that fits like a glove and balances in the hands.

Given that,accuracy could be 2" at 100 yds and I would kill anything in the world,as long as I don't muck up the shot.

The Pre 64's Win's are good starting points. Never had one that didn't feed perfectly, and the H&H cases feed exceptionally well due to the shape of the case and the excellent Winchester mags and followers. Just a great design, IMHO. Second only to a good double rifle.

If I were a gunsmith, I would love to see one of these come in. Making it utterly reliable wouldn't be too much work.

Bob

More important than pure accuracy for me would be its field accuracy and "carry-ability." The Echols Legend stock is a good start. But with that stock, don't even think about trying to use open sights. The comb is too high and straight. But it handles recoil really well.

I would also pay a lot of attention to the barrel profile and length. Most .375H&H barrels are too long and bulky. I sold my M70 Classic in 375 H&H after one Afric hunt for exactly that reason. The cartridge certainly does not need 26" barrels to achieve benchmark velocities. I would be thinking in the 22" range (maybe 23", which would look better with a Legend stock), and about .675" muzzle diameter.

Penrod does good work, but he is slower and more expensive than Redneck (Lee), whose work has never let me down.

Mr. Olson in Plains, Mt. would be on my short list as well.

^^^ Good advice here.^^^ ... Made same mistake with the one .375 H&H custom that I built. Went with a Douglas #5 @ 26". Not exactly same/same. But, the 9.3x62 that I am building now will be a Douglas #4 @ 23".

There's been many "tack driver" 375 H&H rifles built. Start looking for a good pre 64 model 70...

Jorge1 has many rifles like that. My first thought lies in your last sentence... Hint...

I agree with the overly heavy .375 H&H M-70 24" tubes. With the Classic, they have the same contour, .458, 416 and .375, of course, the latter is heavier, less metal removed from the bore.

I cut a 24" SS Classic to 21" had it flutted, steel bedded it in the Tupperware stock. I like that stock, drop is about right. I had a Legend on a .404J M-70 build and agree, it's hard to get down on it enough for irons. With the Tupperware, it's easy to see the NECG iron.

As shown, this gun balances very well and with the Zeiss Victory 1.5-6x42 T*, weighs 9#, 1 oz. Weight is well under 9#'s with the 1.5-5x20.

The factory barrel shoots very well. So, this is an inexpensive solution to the accurate .375 issue in a very useable package that's about bullet proof regarding rough handling, wet climates, etc. You can spend a lot more...

DF

Hmmm...

A far shot on a NM Jackwabbit, about how many yds/feet that be...??

DF

I had a Brux in 375 ruger put on a push feed model 70. 6x scope and 2 of the first test loads(only 3 shots) could just about be covered by a penny. Have banged steel at 400 with boring regularity just for fun with the same 6x scope

Far,far,far away....

It better be. I've shot them past 200 yards with my old smith 29 when I was 13 years old.... Just sayin...

With a handgun,inches away is not close enough.

Elk, you'll catch them bunnies on fire that close, muzzle flash will light'em up...

DF

Kimber Talkeetna bone stock save a trigger tweak:

200yds, 250 TTSX/R-15, 2800fps, 1 fouler from a cleaned bore and then 3-shot group



I had a factory NH M70 SS classic that shot as well or better that I sold to a friend when I bough the Kimber.

Both rifles also shoot 260 Partitions and 270 TSX's equally as well as the above pic and the Win also shoots 300TSX's that good or better as well. Never tried the 300's in the Kimber.

DF,if the muzzle flash don't get'em,then muzzle blast will.

Nice.

This is what my .375 H&H did at 100 yds with a 270 gr Swift A-Frame.

The .375 seems to be one of those mythical inherently accurate cartridges. My classic with a factory custom shop barrel will shoot ragged one hole groups even with two or three different bullet weights.

The classic barrel is too heavy but otherwise good on balance. I like the 24" barrel but especially an Alaskan and DG rifle a shorter barrel will handle faster and reduce some weight.
If I built one I would probably go Douglas #4 and shorten it to 21" just to be contrary. I would need to check but I think Bartlein does a #3.5 and can also do the pre-64 contour too. Either of these should be just about right.

My 375 at 10.5lbs is easy to shoot but get one down to around 8lbs recoil gets snappy and not so much fun. Around 8.5lbs seems like a good compromise. If well balanced the weight isn't apparent.