Looking for loading experiences with 250 savage, I have older and more recent 99's to load for (both fast twist and slower twist barrels) Did search here and had little luck, sure it must be in old posts somewhere???

Lots of old posts. In my older 99's, I get good velocity and accuracy with plain old H4895, and they pretty much like to shoot any 87gr bullets. Had very good hunting experience on antelope with 87gr Speer Hot-Core, wouldn't hesitate to use it on deer.

Great timing on this thread as I ordered a set of dies for mine that will be here today. I was going to post about the same topic or questions this morning!

Anyone here tried using 22-250 brass run through a 250-3000 die set? Are there any dimensional differences between the cases other than neck diameter? I have read, many times, that the 22-250 is merely the 250 Savage necked down with no other changes. I want to make sure that I will not be creating a headspace or other problem by making my brass in this fashion since 250 Savage brass is a bit hard to come by these days.

Any experience with the 80gr Barnes TTSX? Foud a box on the shelf locally and bought it.

Would my 1914 manufactured 99 be a slow twist or a fast twst? I am going to guess slow as the bullet they were promoting at the time was an 87 grainer. Thanks in advance for the help.

Anybody use 117gr bullets?

The older (pre-1960) 99's in 250 Savage will be a slow twist, 1 in 14". No experience with the Barnes, but it should be okay. Basically it likes shorter bullets better.

No experience resizing 22-250 brass.. it's not hard around here to find 250 Savage brass at gunshows or Cabelas.

bigbear, I tried the 117gr in an older 250. They hit the target at 100 yards going sideways. I don't think it was stabilizing them too well.

bigbear
I have had good luck and good shooting using
Varget 34.5 and 100 Grn Sierra's
And

Varget 37.5 and 87 Grn Sierra's
Steve

I just started dialing in a 250 EG...so far it likes 36g of Varget under 75g hornady ...don't bother with RE-15...it didn't like anything between 32 and 35g of it under the same bullet.

I've had real good luck with Re-15 in both the .250 and the .300.

Have had the best luck with H414, and RL15 with the 87gr bullets. H414 also performed well with 100gr, but best accuracy with 100's came with RL22 in a 1 in 10 barrel.

Safariman, there is a small difference in shoulder angle between 22-250 and the 250. I have'nt had any problem necking up the 22-250 brass and fireforming it. Except I don't do a dilberate fire form, I found a pretty accurate load with the 75 v-max so I load that and shoot varmints no waste of components that way.

Mark,

I tried the 80 grain TTSXs but couldn't get them to stabilize in any of my 1-14 twist. The bullets did groups at .600 in a 25-06 though.

My go to load for any of my new 250s is 34.5 grains of H4895 or IMR4895 and 87 grain Hornady bullets. From there I move up to 32 grains of 4895 and 100 Corelokts. I'm still not excited about any of my 75 grain Barnes "X" bullets groups. (not happy with the way the "X" bullets group or leave copper fouling either)

Now I'm waiting for Hornady to produce something in the new GMX bullets for the .257s in an 80 or 85 grain pill...

I've been shooting probably more years than I care to admit, and only started seriously with the 250-3000 after 2007. At that time I was able to work a trade with Saddlering. I traded a 99A saddlegun for a 1920. That rifle likes 34.5 grains of IMR 4320 and the Hornady 87 grain spire point. Velocity was 2733 over the screen. I used a Rem 9 1/2 primer.

Later in 2008, I got another 99EG from a member here who resides in Illinois. The rifle belonged to his grandfather. The owner was able to provide me with some interesting history of the rifle. This rifle digests 36.3 grains of RL-15, again with the Hornady 87 gr. spire point and a Rem. 9 1/2 primer. Velocity with this load is 3018 FPS.

Both rifles kill deadly. 2 deer with each rifle so far. All 4 were 1 shot kills and no deer went more that 10 yards.

Well, the 22-250 brass that I ran through my new dies looked good, loaded them with some old leftover bullets and 36gr of R-19. Cycled through the action once I figured out that the rifle definately likes the OAL short rather than long so I will shoot a few of these just to make sure these make-do cases work well and are not excessive in headspace. If this turns out to be OK, I will then load up a few different loads but likely with R15 powder as my baseline as it seems according to folks here and the manuals I have consulted that R-15 gives the highest velocities in this cartridge. I will give the 80gr TTSX's a try first in hopes that they shoot well in this rifle but if they don't will go to the Horny's. Thanks to all who have chimed in so far, I will report more when I know more.

Longbeard King.... LOVE your signatuer tag line! VERY true, freind, very true.

MARK

I'm running some 22/250 brass through my 250AI with zero problems.

Great to hear it. I am going to test fire a few rounds of mine later today. With the same outcome or results you got I will be happily crafting handloads this evening with said brass topped off with the 80gr TTSX bullets I have on hand and some R-15 powder. Have you shot any deer or other game with the 80gr TTSX .257 bullets from your 250? To date the only .257 bullets I have used have been various 100 grainers from several 257 Weatherby's. Trying out a 250 Savage a bit this year is a real paradyne shift for me. Quite the opposite ends of the quarter bore spectrum!

Negative on the 80gr TTSX's but that's because I have about 30 boxes of 85 X bullets on the shelf.

Then you've read wrong many times. Shoulder angles are different, datums are different lengths, etc. A quick review of most any load manual will confirm this. Cases formed from .22-250 hulls don't always chamber in .250-3000 rifles. Since Graf's, Lock, Stock & Barrel, Powder Valley, and others all currently stock .250-3000 brass, why are you even considering reforming from something else?

Well, the ones I made chambered good and 22-250 brass I have a lot of. 250 Savage brass was not readily available localy and I just changed bank accounts with a 2 week plus wait for my new debit card to get here, shredded all my credit cards 6 months ago and most of all I am quite impatient when I want to go play with a new toy! On my way to the range now to see if the refomed brass works OK. Steelheads worked good, here's hoping for same same for me. Report will be posted here shortly, unless I blow one of my hands off....

STEELHEAD, how have the 85gr pills worked out? Pass throughs on deer?

And yet you had the time and funds to buy dies. Great plan.

You should just simplify and buy .30-06 brass and a hacksaw.

Years ago there was another guy with a "half fro" and a similar sense of humor... shame the search feature only goes back a couple of year.

You'd be thinking of Johnny Nitro olgrouser


Mike

Dies I found locally. Not a money problem, only of a patience problem and nothing locally.

BTW, all of my digits are still attatched and the new cases work GREAT! Gonna make some more tomorrow.

Loaded up some Barnes 80 gr TTSX's over various amounts of R-15. If only I had not shot clean through my chronograph when testing my 358 loads recently.

Really?

So did you buy your dies locally or did you order them?

And as stated previously, great plan. I really don't know why anyone bothers with buying more than one or two basic cases anyway. With a hacksaw and dies you should be able to form a wide variety of cases from the basic .30-06 hull as well as the .375 H&H case.

Were you able to understand any part of my previous post? I don't recall stating an issue of losing any of your dick skinners. The .22-250 hull uses a longer datum, which equates to tight chambering in some guns if they're chambered somewhat short.

You sound like a lot of fun. You should try piling the case as full of powder as you can. Give me a call before you touch off the round, because I'm always looking for cheap entertainment.

For someone who's supposed to be a "professional" of sorts in the shooting sports, your knowledge of firearms and handloading seems to be in a realm all its own.

Apparently, the re-sized .22-250 brass worked fine in his gun and he'll be able to use 'em up instead of buying new .250 Savage cases. Makes sense to me. I guess we can all relax now.

I load for a trio of the original Savage .250-3000s. I try to keep pressures down a little in the old guns. My standard loading in the .250 Savage is 33 grains of RL-15 and a 100 grain Speer Hot Core. Lately I've been loading one of my guns with the same bullet and 35 grains of Big Game powder. So far I like the combination. I'm getting 2,700 fps and very good accuracy. I've yet to try increasing the powder charge to get to 2800 fps. I like the Ramshot powders because they meter so easily and, like RL-15, they work well in the 10 to 20 below zero temperatures I often hunt in.

Yeah, you're right, those .250-3000 hulls are SOOOOOO expensive. And they're SOOOOOO hard to get.

http://www.powdervalleyinc.com/WINBrass.shtml
http://www.grafs.com/product/253141
http://www.lockstock.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RBR250
http://www.lockstock.com/prodinfo.asp?number=WBR250SAV

It really does sound like an EXCELLENT plan. And he sounds very knowledgeable about rifles, particularly considering his chosen vocation. I am truly in AWE.

I'd be willing to share my .250-3000 data from my 99EG and my Remington 700, but what more is there to add?

Welcome back Johnny...

What's your problem, Brickhead?

We don't appreciate your brand of childish behaviour around the Savage Fire.

DNFTT

Anyone here found the maximum OAL for getting spitzer point bullets to feed reliably in these 250 Sav 99's ? When I try to load them anywhere near max for the magazine or somewhat close to the lands and grooves the bullets hang up on the feed ramp. Maybe it doesn't matter as much as I am worrying about since I am not tring to load for a 1/2 inch varmint rifle. Still, what have ya'll found for a good OAL?

Agree 100% on the idea of keeping pressures low in the older rifles. No need to make them into something they are not. If I want a speedburner I can pick up my 257ROY. This will be a fun, lightweight rifle for sneaking around with and popping a deer at short to moderate range. Man, I wish it was deer season already! This rifle will also be perfect for collecting bait Impala's for Leopard hunting and putting a big hurt on a troupe of Baboons. Gotta go now, my itchy trigger finger is making it hard to type!

2.515, IIRC

THANKS! I will try this OAL.

BigBear, hope you do not feel as though your great thread has been hijacked, lots of good info flowing here. thanks for posting and getting this started.

Also a great money saving idea!!! Why spend money on a load manual? Just ask on the internet.

You've really given me some outstanding ideas for saving money.

Safariman, I came up with the exact same OAL in my guns as olgrouser, 2.515.

Dicktop, apparently you can't grasp the simple concept of the L.B.J. quote you include on your own posts.

Huh? I have absolutely praised safariman's approach to reloading. He hasn't consulted a manual, he's formed his own brass instead of buying some, what's not to like about the "can do" spirit?

olgrouser and MW406,

Maximum OAL of 2.515 did not want to load and feed in my very old brass rotary magazine rifle. Tip points hit and snag on the feed ramp. Book max must be max, period, for all known rifles so chambered such as later model 99's and maybe the model 20 bolt actions and such. Playing around with OAL's I have come to a max for my rifle anyway of 2.490 to ensure reliable feeding. Perhaps with the round nose bullets so commonly used back then the 2.515 would have worked.

In thinking about this situation perhaps mine is set up different than most as it was built the very first year of the 250/3000 cartridge's introduction 1914. Not at all uncommon for a rifle or a car or anything new and mechanical to morph a time or two after a new initial introduction. The geometry and such on these brass rotary magazines is pretty touchy I have heard. For sure I will not be taking a rat tail file to my little rifles innards!

Short OAL distraction aside, the more I handle this rifle the better I like it. Becoming a confirmed Savage model 99 addict and the next few nice model 99's I find and bring home will probably find a nest in my safe. These things are COOL!

Safariman, one of my .250-3000s dates to 1915, the other two are 1916. All three function fine with the 2.515 COAL. I wouldn't worry too much about seating bullets out as far as possible. In these guns it probably doesn't make a whole lot of accuracy difference.

Has your .250-3000 shown any signs of case head separation due to the chamber being overly large? I have one that I have to neck size only or the cases split after a couple of firings. Even neck sizing, I only reload the cases four times and toss them out. Just something to watch for.

Here's my three .250-3000s. The first two are 1916 and the bottom one 1915. I use the top one for coyotes shooting 87 grain Speer bullets. I load the middle one with 100 grain Speers and use it for deer and antelope. The bottom one I only shoot occasionally. It's in nearly perfect condition and one of three Savage 1899s I own that I consider true collector quality pieces. The rest of them get used.

Very nice rifles, top one looks like it has some nice wood in the stock.

WOW! Those are some terrific looking rifles! Before I came across my rifle I had never seen the perchbelly stock style on a model 99 and you have THREE of 'em.... There must have been a good Savage dealer and salesman out your way 90 or so years ago. Quite a collection there. Thanks for the tips and info.

mw406
Fantastic looking rifles,really well cared for.
And the bottom one i don't blame ya for not taking her out.
Enjoy. Again nice bunch.
Steve

THAT was funny!

My old TD model shoots well with 75gr Sierra and a light load of 3031 and I use it for coyotes, 87's shoot OK but I can't get 100's under 6". Tried 117RN couldn't keep them on the paper. My 1899B 25-35 shoots the same 117RN near an inch with the tang sight and small appeture.



erich

Over the years I've tried several powder and bullet combos. 4320 and RL-15 have worked well with the 75 Sierra. 36-RL15-87 Speer HC
has been a great combination, killed several whitetails for me. 33-H4895-100 Speer HC does pretty well, but I've settled on enough Big Game to push the same bullet 2800fps for my heavy load. This load worked really well on a large doe a couple years ago, broadside, 200+ yards, through both shoulders, exited. My chamber is a bit large so the charges are a little high to get the same pressure/velocity as the books show. I load my Ruger a little hotter, but really haven't seen the need after what the old M99 does to em.

I've tried lots of combinations in the older 1 in 14 twist 250's. To date my most accurate load is 36.5 grains of H380 under a 100 grain Remington Core Loct bullet. I got the bullets as a "repackaged item" from Midway. I haven't cronographed the load but according to the new Nosler manual it should run about 2650. That's pretty close to factory Remington velocity that I have chronographed. H380 is not what's loaded in the factory ammo and after taking apart a factory load, I cannot come up with what powder is used. Whatever the powder, it's ball and weighs 34.9 grains. Factory ammo is still the best in my gun but H380 comes close. Anyone know what powder Remington uses? Proprietary I suppose.