Any suggestions on where to find the following parts for a Savage model 1907 (s/n 94737, early 1907-13-2)?

Oddly, this pistol does not have the "SAVAGE" inscription on the left side and has inspector mark R.

extractor (ejector)
extractor spring
trigger lock (trigger bar)
magazine release spring
front sight
loaded chamber indicator

Other than the sight and loaded chamber indicator, Numrich lists all of these (although the trigger lock is listed only for the model 1917), but has only the springs in stock.

Thanks,

Bill

Bill -

Send me a PM and I can fix you up with all but the sight and indicator.

Jim

Bill, you lucked out! Jim will fix you up.

Thanks -- finding parts for these old beauties is getting harder and harder.

Bill

Brother Jim beat me to it. Guess I don't skulk about 24H often enough.

Parts hard to find? I have boxes of 'em ... except for the indicators - I keep all of them when they rarely come along. Gun Shy, You need a front sight still?

Dave K.

Yep, I still need a front sight. Still need an ejector/extractor, too.

How are you fixed with model 1915 parts? I have a disassembled model 1915 ("box o' parts") coming that I am going to restore to life. I know most of the parts are present, but I have no doubt one or more internal parts are missing.

Someone should make replica indicators -- they break easily and about half the Savage pistols I have seen that originally came with them are either missing them or have the arm broken off, leaving just the clip. There's not much to them -- they only cost 25 cents back in the day (the same day the pistol cost $16 new, of course)!

Bill

Newbie here looking for a front sight for a 1907 savage... mine fell off over the weekend when I was shooting it.....

Greetings

I�m looking for an extractor for a Savage 1907 pistol

Would anyone happen to have one?

Thanks

Roger
[email protected]

I bought the ``excellent`` cond slide off Numrichs, cripes, never seen something so grey in my entire life, hate to see their N.I.B.

Are these really safe to shoot w/out the chamber indicator?

It looks to me like an awful lot of case is exposed otherwise, though I don't know how much the indicator supports the case.

Indicator has nothing to do with supporting the case.. it's perfectly safe.

Yes.

Savage only used the loaded chamber indicator for a few years (about 1913-1917), but continued to use remaining barrels and slides, fully or partially cut for the indicator, on new pistols for several more years. I think Brower's book has examples of cut barrels as late as 1919 or 1920.

There would have to be a pretty catastrophic rupture of a shell case to involve the enlarged opening at the base of the barrel, and even then the exposed area is small. One might as well be concerned that the cuts into the barrel to hold the indicator and the cuts into the slide so it fits over the indicator weaken them and so increase the potential that they will rupture. These are not known problems.

In any case, I wouldn't want to rely on the thin metal of the indicator for protection if there were a catastrophic shell casing failure. If it had any effect, it would be more likely to bend outward and direct blast and debris back at the shooter.

Bill

Thanks guys. I'm addicted to these beauties, but passed on one I saw one for sale recently ($150) when I noted how much of the case was exposed.

I've got a few parts that I would like to pass onto someone who is aggregating spare parts. Should have a pic of the parts in an older thread

I am interested in knowing of people who may have parts for sale. Of immediate concern is I need a Firing Pin Retainer. Mine has a hairline crack in it.

OK -- I will see if I can finese the rules against posts concerning active auctions. There is a Savage firing pin retainer currently on auction on a well-known firearms auction site that does not have the initials "AA" and has a name sometimes confused with the firearms forum site "GunBoard". This retainer has cycled through the auctions a number of times already (literally for months), has no bids currently, ends on 7/13, and has an opening bid of $10. You may find it if you search using the terms "Savage" "1910" and "firing pin retainer". I've bought Savage parts from the seller before and have had only positive experiences.

OK -- I hope I am vague enough to remain in compliance with the rules and specific enough that you can find the auction.

As far as I know, all firing pin retainers are interchangable, regardless of model or caliber. I used one from an m1917 to replace the original one that broke - - on my early (3-digit s/n) m1907.

Bill

Why didn't you just send him a private message? Would have been a lot simpler and could have been much more to the point.

HA! Got it on first try!! Thanks!!!
How did you know about this. Amazing.
I'm still interested in finding a
reliable source for future parts needs.

BTW - my S/N is in mid 800's. I've
had it only a couple of months. Anything
else you know in terms of advice or
other words of wisdom on this little guy
are always appreciated.

Ted,

Our pistols are siblings! My early m1907 is #857, so near yours.

I've found no reliable source for parts. Numrich (http://www.gunpartscorp.com) has some, but their classification system for Savage automatics is all screwed up so can be a crap shoot if you need a specific version of a part. Other parts dealers advertise some parts, but there is the same problem with being able to tell if the part they have is the version you need. You need to become knowledgable about exactly what parts are appropriate, since you cannot rely on the seller knowing or being correct. For example, Numrich lists 5 versions of Savage automatics: the models 1904, 1907, 1908, 1910, and 1917; other sources may list additional models (1905, 1909, 1912, etc). However, according to Savage it only made three versions: the models 1907, 1915, and 1917. Numrich parts diagrams are either of the m1917 or the early (pre-1912) m1907, so are incorrect for most versions of the m1907 and don't even address the m1915 (which Numrich includes as a variation of the model 1910).

I find regularly checking GunBroker and Auction Arms auctions for parts is useful, but, again, you can't rely on the seller to correctly list them (as in the case of the "model 1910" firing pin retainer). You can also look for "parts guns" -- unfortunately, I've ended up restoring every parts gun I've bought, so for me they just lead to more parts searches, but you may be more disciplined.

The good news is that Savage pistols have relatively few parts, those parts don't often break, and, depending on the model and version of the pistol, most parts are easily interchangable with other models and versions. The bad news is that parts interchangability for pistols made 1908-1911 is much more limited; there were a lot of design changes in 1912.

If you don't have Bailey Brower's 2008 book Savage Pistols you should look for a copy. It is the only in-print book on Savage pistols and has a lot of information and wonderful color photos. While the list price is $40 or $50, I've seen new copies with heavy discounts in the last 6 months or so. Amazon may also have used copies. Even better books for detailed technical information are James Carr's 1967 book Savage Automatic Pistols and Daniel K Stern's 1967 10 Shots Quick: The Fascinating Story of the Savage Pocket Automatics. Unfortunately, both of these are long out of print and used copies are very expensive. I have run across electronic copies of both.

Dave and Jim Koch, members of this forum, are Savage pistol experts and sometimes have parts for sale. Dave Koch used to have a Savage pistol website with a wealth of good information (it was my first source for reliable Savage information, and led to buying my first Savage pistol, which led to another, and another ...), but it has unfortunately shut down. He has the earliest known Savage m1907, s/n 2 (a museum in Australia claims to have s/n 1, but the pistol seems to be a renumbered later version m1907, which the museum disputes).

You may know this, but your m1907 is from 1908, the first year of production. Using the standard classification system developed by Carr, it is called a model 1907-08, and it is the first of some 14 .32 m1907 variations, made 1908-1920. Fewer than 3,000 of the m1907-08 were made.

Just a warning -- these are addictive pistols. Once you have one, you need another version of the m1907 (how about the .32 m1907-13-3 "miltary" version, which the French Army used in WWI?), and, of course, one of each model, and both .32 and .380 versions, and there is always the ultimate, one of the several hundred prototypes of the .45 Savage, one of only two finalists in the Army 1911 trials for a new automatic pistol, losing to what became the Colt 1911. (Interested? -- one is on GunBroker right now, currently listed at just under $17,000, from an opening bid of $1!)

Bill

Thanks for the quick reply and all the info.

Check out this site from Belgium for an awesome free eBook:

http://www.hlebooks.com/ebook/ebook1.htm

I also like this website:

http://www.vintagepistols.com/1907/index.html

He has the electronic copy of "It Banishes Fear".

I have the Baily Brower book - just got it a couple of days ago - beautiful.

I read a copy of Stern's book - local large county library was able to borrow me a copy on interlibary loan. I'm still looking for Carr's book (and so is library).

My gun was dirty and tarnished when I got it. Neither the dealer nor myself knew exactly what was underneath. I took it apart down to every last part (see below) and cleaned and polished everything. It now looks as good (or better) than any 1907 pistol in Brower's book. The numbers match and all the parts are model-appropriate.

The barrel is quite pitted internally, but very nice outside. It works amazingly well, but I want to find a better barrel for it. That will be difficult via sight unseen and mail order. SIGH.

I also want to find a couple more original 1-hole magazines.

Now - my disassembly problem. I cannot get the Cocking Lever Hinge Pin out. I am mechanically adept (pretty good amateur gunsmith) and have never had that problem (I'm also a mean SOB and *always* win!). I used a pin punch and large hammer and "encouraged" it much more than I oughta have. I soaked it in Kroil for three days. I broke an industrial strength front site pusher (twice!) that I modified to fit this as a pin pusher. It will not budge.

But I boiled the whole breech plug assembly in Simple Green, sprayed it out with Gun Scrubber, oiled with Break Free and then hosed it out with high pressure air blast. It is probably as clean as if I had taken it apart, but it still pizzes me off.

There is of course that hairline crack in the Retainer, but it fits down in that hole and is covered by the slide - it's not going anyplace. In the end, the pistol is beautiful and shoots good and operates smoothly throughout.

There is no obvious wear and tear other than the pitted barrel.

Finally the trigger is stiffer than I want. If I could have disassembled the breech plug I could have significantly smoothed up the sear and the firing pin mating. As it was I was able to get some tools in there a little bit and at least made enough difference to remove any hint of graininess or creep in the trigger feel. It's stiff but it goes snap (eventually!).

Hi guys,
I have a small gunsmith shop in Pa. A customer of mine brought in a Savage pistol in .32 auto. While looking for parts on the web I came across this site.

His pistol is missing the extractor, extractor spring and the loaded chamber indicator.

Anyone know where I might purchase these parts? Numerich is currently out of stock on the extractor and they have no listing for the chamber indicator.

Thanks,

Sean

Loaded chamber indicator is pretty much impossible, unless you buy a parts gun to disassemble. Other parts might pop up on gunbroker eventually, if somebody here doesn't have some leads.

Thanks for the info.
I made a loaded chamber indicator from a long shank, collar type .22 lr extractor. It functions fine and will probably have about the same life as the original part.

"I made a loaded chamber indicator from a long shank, collar type .22 lr extractor. It functions fine and will probably have about the same life as the original part."

This sounds interesting. Do you have some photos of it?

Bill

Sorry to say, I am not savvy enough to post photos. I did photograph it though. If I can convince the House Dragon to post the photos, I will do so.

I found two collar type .22 cal. extractors in the parts cabinet. I am not sure what type of .22 rifle they came from as they were in a drawer of misc. extractors. I got lucky on the shank length and collar diameter- very little fitting needed.

I had to reduce the width of the collar to fit the groove in the barrel and to make it look more like the original part, I rounded the ends of the collar.

From start to finish it only took about 15 minutes.

Actually I need a part for a 1915 hammerless 380. The piece at the rear of the breech block/bolt that covers the area where the cocking lever is on the 1908/1917, and the pin that holds it in place. Lost it while after taking apart to solve a firing problem. Solved the problem, but I guess it must have fallen out of the pistol bag at the range.

I am looking for an ejector and safety catch spring for a Savage 1907. Does anyone out there have them?

Newbie here looking for parts for a 1907. I need a left grip, ejector, saftey catch and a saftey catch spring. I love this pistol and would love to keep it in working order.

see posting #4231984, earlier in this thread

You can get the safety catch and (replacement) grips from Numrich (www.gunpartscorp.com). Be aware that Numrich has the Savage pistol models screwed up, listing the models 1904, 1907, 1908, 1910, and 1917 (yep, three extra models, but no model 1915 -- it's included as part of the mysterious model 1910), and all the diagrams except for the model 1917 are actually for the 1908-1911 production of the model 1907, so include none of the many changes introduced from 1912-1920. What part version you actually get when you order can be a crapshoot. Luckily the model 1917 had few actual mechanical changes from the 1912+ model 1907, so most of the later model 1907 parts also show up there. On the other hand, while a lot of 1907 and 1917 parts look similar to model 1915 parts, many are actually unique to it.

Replacement .32 recoil and striker (firing pin) springs are best bought new from Wolff Gunsprings for about $8 a set (www.gunsprings.com). Unfortunately, Wolff does not carry .380 recoil springs.

Having said that, first determine which of the commonly accepted 14 versions of the .32 model 1907 you have. If you don't have access to the standard Savage reference books, the easiest way is by checking the s/n and asking here.

Model 1907 parts that you are looking for that changed over the years include the ejector and safety catch, although you probably can use any but the earliest versions of these.

Check the usual firearms auction sites and parts sites, as well as gun shows. Savage pistol parts are not common, but do show up.

If you don't have it, get Bailey Brower's recent book "Savage Pistols," which is a treasure trove of information and color photos. If you can find them (good luck!), get a copy of James Carr's "Savage Automatic Pistols" and Daniel Stern's "10 Shots Quick: The Fascinating Story of the Savage Automatic Pistols", both out of print since the late 1960s, but with even more information than Brower's book has (but nothing beats the photos in Brower's book!).

Good luck!

Bill

Hi! Recently bought an early Savage that needs a barrel replaced. This is one of the thin walled barrels. Would you happen to have one in your parts collection?
Greg
[email protected]

Hello All! I just purchased a Savage M1907 .32 French Contract pistol with the original AE holster at a gun show this weekend. The lanyard ring is missing is missing on the pistol (holes are there). I was curious if anyone knows where to get a replacement or dimensions so I could get one made?

What is the serial number of your pistol?

Don't know of a repro maker or replacement.

Here is a sketch and approximate dimensions;



McMaster Carr has many kinds of rod stock.
I'd go with 3/32" dia, experiment to get the radius/arc correct, cut to length and turn right angles.
Don't know whether to use "soft" steel to form, then harden & blue?? or just form & blue.
May take a couple of tries but should get you close.

Hello all! I have had a bit of a snag with a 1917 model Savage that I was given a few years back, it was having some slamfire issues that I was working through- unfortunately information for these old pistols as well as correct parts lists are very scarce.

I was able to infer that some dingus had monkeyed around inside this old relic, stoning or grinding down the firing pin, trigger bar and sear trip catch.

Working with that in mind I was able to acquire the sear trip catch, however the trigger bar I bought from Jack’s first gun parts, labeled as for the 1917 .380ACP, it looks AWFULLY different than the one that was already installed in this gun.

Now, the piece goes in just fine- it actually allows the trip catch to stay in place (it wouldn’t lock in place with the old trigger bar) but given that the numrich schematics do not appear to be correct I purport the following:

Would putting the slightly different trigger bar in affect function? Were the variations in trigger bars so insignificant that they didn’t need to be included in the schematics you find online?

Maybe someone knowledgeable here could please chime in.

Sorry about the heartburn.
Shy of buying a doner pistol and changing any/all the affected parts it's hard to say what the problem/repair is.
I'd suggest decommissioning the thing before someone gets hurt.
The last bubba created a dangerous pistol and ran it down the road. Shameful.
JMO.

I am not quite ready to throw the baby out with the bathwater in a manner of speaking, I am certain that changing the firing pin will solve the problem as I can tell bubba filed or stoned the cone section right before the pin protrusion so that the sear is easily tripped. The sear itself is in immaculate shape but I cannot for the life of me determine why someone would want this thing slamfiring.

I will try to get some photos of the affected parts soon.

What is the serial number?

Let me know if you sill need parts. I have many.

I appreciate it fellows, I get off work at 3 PM Pacific time, I will have some answers for you then!

Well I hope these photos come across ok, the allowed size of embedded images is woefully miniscule.

That said, the serial is 289XXB.

I will start with the firing pin, it looks as if some of the surface area was stoned or ground down, which in turn makes it (to my understanding) easier for the sear to trip causing a slamfire.

Second, the trigger bar/lock. Looks like portions of it were stoned down, additionally the replacement trigger bar I received from Jack’s first is slightly different from the one that was native to my 1917 .380.

To help distinguish between the two I have marked the photo, red circle being the original from my gun and the replacement being the blue “I”.

As for the rest, the springs were replaced to the best that I could source. The sear is in perfect shape as far as my gunsmith could tell and I did take this to the range to function test (The first time before I knew it slamfired scared the soil from my britches) and I was able to feed it 4 rounds before it went F-A.

After troubleshooting and trying it once again in a secluded safe area with not all rounds loaded I was still able to squeeze one to two rounds out before slamfiring.

Given how I have been studying how the sear works I want to say the firing pin is the main issue, the trigger bar is more than likely an ancillary concern but I figure it’s best to get it all at once.

It looks like you will have to send me a message first as I am too early of a user to send you one!

Sent you a PM.

That grinding you see on firing pin and trigger lock bar are likely factory original. The Type 2 (Notched) Firing pin is appropriate to your M1907. It was to improve the firing pin retention.

The lock bars have a huge variability, see attached photo link.

[img]https://icedrive.net/s/1NbSACtCzNADQ9VNvtP5yFZg3PxF[/img]

[img]https://icedrive.net/s/xb61799VA5A5S9Z3T3W1hF75iiSG[/img]


I am curious if any filing/grinding or excessive wear has occurred on the lower side of the Spur Cocking Lever, part 2G8. In multi-fires, the cocking lever if worn or altered may not lift sufficiently to cock the pistol .
[img]https://icedrive.net/s/yV4ZTCRG4YTjukF4aAxR1u2wyB5f[/img]

I missed that you are using non-original springs, I can provide you original springs throughout if needed. Did not include them in my PM.

They are original springs that I sourced from numrich, I only got a new sear trip spring and a new firing pin spring.

I will get you some photos of the spur cocking lever when I get back home!

Thanks