First off, I'm not up on guns and there values. I'm just a hunter who has a few guns. in saying that, I bought a couple old guns from a neighbor about 5 years ago. The one I have a question about is the Savage 22 hornet. It has a serial number on it, I cannot find a model number on it. the gun is a bolt acting. I did some searching online. I think it might be a 23D model but I'm not sure. Can you please help me figure this out?

Most likely is a 23D, it's the only bolt action in 22 Hornet they made except for a variation of the model 340.

If it has a schnoble tip on it it's a 23D but some later 23D's didn't have the schnoble tip.

I can never remember a 23d with a schnarble tip and I looked a long time.

Joe, Didn't they chamber some model 19's in 22 Hornet??? seems i heard about some once. Don

I had several years ago. The earlier mfd. one had a schnabel like an early 23A; the later one had a plain, fuller forend like my late model 23B.

Yep, 19H.

If it's a 19H thats a damn nice find, never seen one myself.

If you were in the U.S., I have a 19H that I'd love to sell. All it does is take up space and gather dust. Of course, you might want to overlook the red plastic diamonds that were inletted into the sides of the stock.

Jeff

A guy could cut some fancy walnut diamonds and replace the plastic inlays? Just a thought.

I guess that a guy who cared could, but I don't care enough to spend the time to do anything but move it from corner to corner.

Jeff

is there any you can tell by the serial number on the barrel?

There should be a roll stamp on the barrel indicating what model it is.

If you post a few pictures, with details of any roll stamps on the rifle, it should be an easy ID.

Jeff

thats what has me puzzled. there are only 2 markings on the barrel. one is the serial number which is located between the bolt and the chamber opening. the other is just saying "Savage Arm Corporation. Utica NY, made in the USA". That is located about mid way up the barrel. There is nothing calling out a model number. The reason I'm asking someone wants trade me this gun for a snowmobile trailer. I don't want get ripped off or do i want to rip someone else off.

BTW I really appreciate all the responses

That's fairly fishy; even the cheapest Savage .22 rimfires always have a model number stamped on them somewhere (I know, I know: "Never say never, etc."). But still. And HOW exactly do you KNOW it's a .22 Hornet if there's no caliber stamp?

Which model had the serial number stamped in the chamber where he's describing it?

I know there was one but can't remember which.

I have seen a number of schnable forend on model 23 Savage rifles. It pretty well has to be a 23 or a 340 and the 340 is a bulky hunk of junk IMO and not worth owning..The 23s are nice rifles but prone to headspace problems..The best way to cure a 23s headspace problem is to make it a 22 Hornet Ackley IMP..that is the fix...I alway did this on the 219s also..It's a good practical conversion unless you have a collectable gun.

Yeah, but that would only tend to exacerbate the problem as to why it developed headspace in the first place. AI chamberings tend to get loaded even hotter by guys trying to make it something it isn't. Giving it a sharper shoulder, and then sizing cases to headspace on that shoulder is a fix, sure, but isn't really addressing the issue. Also at that point more of the case head is left unsupported further contributing to poor case life and risk of case head separation. I got rid of a M1920 .250-3000 once for that very reason. Headspace was bad, I sized cases to take up the slack, case stretching continued to worsen. I finally gave up on it. As an aside, I had a 1903 M2 Springfield converted to .22 Hornet (which guns by the way were the original test beds for the Hornet's development 80 years ago) that was just fine and dandy. Case life was good and accuracy superb. Did I leave it alone? No, I had to have it opened up to a K-Hornet. After that case life was nil and for some reason it kept breaking firing pins- like after about every 10 shots. When I loaded it down to original Hornet velocities everything was good again. It went the way of the wind eventually too. I figured I accomplished nothing more than ruining a perfectly good arsenal .22 barrel.

Granted 23's in centerfire calibers have a margin of safety, but it's not huge. Loading to the upper end of specs and shooting them a heck-of-a-lot will cause some setback eventually.

The 340 may be about the homeliest orphan in the Savage stable, but they worked well, feel good in the hands, were plenty strong for their intended calibers, and as a rule give better than average accuracy.

Not to pick nits, but I have always thought that the 340 was a little "iffy" in 225. OTOH, since I've never heard of a 340V failing, it might just be my concern about having a single locking lug action mated to a barrel chambered for a hot cartridge.

Jeff

Jeff...if you still have the 19h I would be interested in seeing a picture of it.
creekman

I've looked all over the gun, nothing telling what model. The only way I know it is a hornet is the old man(who is now deceased) that sold it to me told me it was. Also the clip the came with it says 22 hornet on it.

Go to gunbroker . com and punch in Savage 340 and 23 and see which one looks like yours if you can't post pics. Thats about the best way to tell right now.

I still have it, but I am technically challenged and don't do pictures. I'm sure that it looked a lot like a 19-33 before it was bubba'd.

Jeff

Another thing: The model 340 had a barrel nut so the barrel could be removed from the action. The 23 had the barrel and action milled from a single piece of steel.

Well had a few today to pull out my 23D it is not marked 23D the only place it is marked 22 hornet is on the left side of the bolt area and if the rifle in question has been scoped the mount could cover it up.

All I can tell you gnoahhh is that the straight imp. case has less set back than the tapered 22 hornet case..It works in both the 23 and the Win mod. 43 quite well...A well known fact for many years...As to over loading that is a human error, and has nothing to do with the gun..There are always those that blow guns up with poor reloading practices.

its one like this

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=164738626


thanks everyone

The 23D is first listed in catalog No. 66 (cover printed on brown paper) with a price list dated Jan25, 1932, (I have another No. 66 with a cover printed on green paper that is dated Jan 15, 1931 and it does not list the 23D). It mentions a new style stock and forearm just for the 23D so I don�t think these ever had a schnabel forearm. This catalog still lists the 23-A, catalog No. 67 lists the 23-AA; the 23-AA, 23-B, 23-C all still show a schnabel forearm (Catalog No. 68 no longer shows a schnabel forearm on the 23-B or 23-C). Catalog No. 67 is also the first to have the Model 19 (1933) and lists it as being available in 22 Hornet (also first catalog to show a half length stock); catalog No. 69 is the first to call it the 19-H. I would add more but I am already getting myself confused!!!!

I could have sworn that my first 23 Hornet had a schnabel forend. But it is very possible that my memory if faulty, or somebody had re-styled the forend to match another 23. Wish I'd kept pix, but didn't.

Neat guns, for sure.

Thanks Gene that is great info I think mine has the original sling and swivels. It is a great rifle sadly I never shoot it.

Granted, an "improved" case has less setback than a tapered case- but not a hell of a lot. My point is that turning a standard chamber into a straight walled AI of some sort is not a panacea for excessive headspace.

That checkering looks like a win model 70.

Yep I agree also I don't think the grip cap should be there.

I love those early Weaver mounts and the J2.5 scope.

I hope some one here buys this rifle! The x-ring is right and all looks good BUT the rear sight when was that critter made again?

http://www.joesalter.com/detail.php?f_qryitem=14090

Who bought it? and still wondering about the rear sight?