I don't have access to Doug Murray's book at my finger-tips. So, I need to ask: What is the distinguishing feature of a 99G over the other Pre-war models? I must confess I'm a pistolerlo, but, I'm hooked on the classics, especially the 99. What a beautiful machine!

Mine is a Model 99G
Chambered for 300 SVG
Ser. No. 363***
Date of Mfg. 1937 or 1938
Q stamped just above lever hinge point on receiver (probably inspectors stamp).
No lever boss code are evident.
Pistol Grip (very graceful lines)
V. Good wood, except on left side where possibly a Lyman peep sight may have been installed, and wood has been filed and rounded (slightly disfigured) for about 1�.
Fore-end grip is of the rounded design.
Cut Checkering on grip and fore-end is still very sharp.
Barrel length: 24�
D&T for one-piece Leupold scope mount w/3 x12 BSA. (econo-scope).
Rear sight on barrel remove and blank installed in dove-tail (aluminum).
Metal (aluminum) butt plate with screws on 3-3/8� centers.
Note: My guess this gun has less than 100 rounds fire through it over the past 72 years. No cracks in butt stock near receiver, very clean internally. Some wear on for end-screw slot only. I'll tear it down for a complete inspection in the near future. In the interim I'll evaluate it's accuracy using factory, and hand-loads.

The 99G is a take down with a schnoaeaoeoble tipped for-end and would have had a steel butt plate. Leverbosscode didnt start till 49.

do you have any pictures?

The drilled and tapped of course is not factory'

Mine is not a take-down. Definitely does NOT have a schnoable fore-end. I know the lever boss codes did NOT exist until 1949.

Then it is not a G.
Probably a pre-war R.

Brian

Yes, I've taken a picture but having difficulty posting. Does HTML need to be enabled? The "G" is stamped on the leading edge of the receiver behind the fore-end. If it's not a 99G then where would I find the correct location of the code stamp.

its LIKELY that the model is stamped into the front of the frame... remove the forearm, look at the front of the frame on the edges. It will likely be stamped with an 8 which will indicate its an R or RS. As stated before, the drill and taped holes for the scope mount are not factory original and unfortunately have a profound effect on value of a gun like this...guns with GREAT condition are worth a lot... guns with great condition and one glaring non-factory hole are worth about 50% or less... may not make sense but that's the way it is...

In the photography section of the campfire is a walk through on posting pics... you need a photobucket account or something similar...

OK folks, I don't know how I missed this, however there is also an "E" stamped on the leading edge on the RIGHT side of the receiver behind the fore-end grip, and a "G" stamped on the LEFT side. This I assume makes it an EG?

Thanks for all the help. I'll post photos after going through the instruction.

your gun has been restocked most likely

[quote=grtandberg]. This I assume makes it an EG?

NEVER assume ANYTHING with Savage. And no, that doesn't mean its an "EG"

Those are random inspector marks. Give the first 4 or 5 digits of the ser. # and that will tell what era were talking. Then from your description, a model will be determined. Poke around here, read some posts, process some data. There are like 54 "known" variations of the 1899/99 and several one-zees, two-zee's

RAM , glad to see your still here !! Don

Drew, I believe your correct. No S/N's on any wood pieces or butt plate. I also suspect it's been re-blued. Interesting; the stock bolt has been spliced. Very strange Root-Goldberg repair approach. Seems the previous owner had a stud with with 5/16 NF threads but it wasn't long enough, so he spliced a length of rod with 5/16" NC threads at opposite end, then used a jam nut at the butt end. Clever, but ugly. There doesn't appear to be much wear on any internal components, although everything was very dry. I ordered the correct stock bolt from Numrich this afternoon. If she shoots, looks like I'll have a good shooter and something I can pass down to my grandson.

If it has a stamp like this then it started out as a 99EG. RAM is incorrect on them being random inspection stamps, they show up on most models from the late 20's up to around 1950. That's something new that we figured out in the last few years, RAM.



Originally it would have been a shotgun style buttplate on a pistol grip buttstock matched with a schnabel forearm. No checkering on an EG this early. 24" barrel for 300 Savage.

Would look like this without the checkering:

RAM, Thanks for pics. My 99 EG is stamped identical to one in the photo. S/N is 363***. I'm now thinking it was re-stocked and re-blued. I'm guessing the replacement stock wasn't counter-bored, so previous owner hollowed out a wide spot at the butt so he could install a jam-nut, the only problem was it now needed a longer stock-bolt, so he made one up. He ground each piece half-round and riveted them together. Clever, but ugly. I'm going to fix, but not sure what approach I'll use. Hopefully I can run an counter-bore bit down to the appropriate depth and use a Savage stock-bolt.

My son-in-law has a 99F in 308. It's about two pounds lighter than my EG (?). Scoped, 23" barrel, with a recoil pad. He says it kick like a mule.

I'm negotiating with my elderly neighbor to purchase his 99 in 300. Not sure what model, but looks like the one resting on your 5 point buck w/schnabel forearm and pistol grip. He hand-loads and still holds 1" groups at 100 yards. He's 88.

Thanks so much for the photo showing EG location. Very helpful.

If your neighbor's rifle looks like mine and has the screw on the bottom of the forearm rather than a latch, then it's a 99EG also. If it had a latch, then it would be a takedown and be a 99G.

Good luck with that rifle, and bring us back some pics of it in action this fall!

One feature of the early G's that is especially desireable is that they were available with a hand rubbed varnish finish. When you find one in great condition it will stand out from all the others in your collection.

You may have a parts gun, lots of them floating around these days. The 99G was a pre war gun that was manufactured between 1923 and was discontinued about 1945..It was a take down, had a shotgun butt and a pistol grip and a Schnabel forend. it came in 20, 22, and 24 inch barrel lengths contrary to popular belief or so I have been told by some very smart 99 collectors? It came in calibers 22 hi power, 30-30, 250-3000 and 300 savage. It is a very light and handy little rifle. Your serial number is close enough to be correst for a G..Keep in mind that when Savage changed models, lot of parts were left over and they had a way of using all of them..:) So never say never with a Savage.

The EG is the gun that made Savage famous..It is your every day go to town on Sunday Savage or deer camp on Fri...24 inch barrel, schnabel forend,non takedown, checkered walnut stock ala the picture above. It lean and mean but has some weight to make off hand shooting easy..A few were made in .308, 243, and 358 and a precious few showed up in .284, with 24 and 26 inch tubes, and those bring big bucks, these were left over parts guns I suspect. Like I said never say never with a Savage 99..If I am not mistaken the 99DE or Fs also showed up in 26 inch barrels in 284 caliber, can't remember which..

EG's with 26" barrels? 284 EG's? 284 F's with 26" barrels?

Today I just found that the person who restocked my 99EG drilled the stock for the stock bolt off center. They then repositioned the bit and finished boring from the opposite end. That explains why they cut the OEM stock bolt head off and spliced it to another piece of 5/16" rod all way to the butt, then used a jam nut to secure the stock to the action.

I found this out when I proceeded to counter-bore the stock to use the proper stock bolt. Unfortunately at the point where the two bores intersect is the location where counter-bore shoulder should stop. There simply is not enough material left in the stock to make it right.

So, I see three options. 1) put it back together using the two-piece cobbled stock bolt and jam nut and let it be. 2) fill the entire cavity with epoxy resin and re-drill the stock and counter bore properly. (I'll leave a pilot hole as guide. 3) purchase a new stock from Boydes and hope it matched my fore-end. The downside is the Boydes stock does not have the nice cut checkering of my fore-end.

PS. I'd post pictures but the instructions for posting are vague. You gotta see the two piece stock bolt. But more important, I really do have a nice 1938 99 EG.

This a shooter, not a collection piece. The question is: What product should I use to fill in the old hole(s) for stock bolt. It will need to be a material I can re-drill using a wood-bit. What should I use as a release agent on a pilot rod I'll epoxy around to insure I re-drill at proper angle. 40 years ago I would have used lamp black or candle wax.

you can email our photos to my photobucket here

[email protected]

let me know if you do , then ill post them.

George,
The e-mail address:grogel1.10763uploads.photobucket.com does not work and comes back as a error message. It there another address I can use to send the photo's?

[email protected]

for grtandberg:

You might try drilling the 2 areas larger, say 3/8", then gluing in an oak dowel. Let is set up, trim even and re-drill for the proper bolt. I have done this repairing a few stocks with sling stud holes too large. Hope the suggestion is of some use.

Rob

Rob,

Thanks for the suggestion. I also have a 3/4"" diameter counterbore to fill. My biggest challenge is going to get the proper alignment to re-drill. I don't have the proper wood working tools or a jig to drill at the proper angle. That's why I was going to leave a section of 5/16" steel rod (coated with a release agent) in the stock positioned at the proper angle and fill in the old holes and counter bore around the rod using some form of liquid wood product. I'd then pull the 5/16" rod out and re-drill slightly larger, say to 11/32". I would then re-drill 3/4" counterbore using a wood auger bit to the proper depth, which is a little over 10" deep. The bit wants to drift off center unless your perfectly aligned. Keep in mind I won't have the advantage of the self-starting screw at the end of the auger because of the pilot hole.

It all sounds so easy, right? But, I'm not sure what liquid wood product to use, and I figure I only get one chance to get this right.

If there is someone out there who is confident they can do this I'd be happy to send them the butt stock and pay them to do it.

I'd take a deep breath and reconsider the situation. Just exactly what problem are you trying to solve? Does the 'Rube Goldberg' concoction hold the stock on tight? If so, you might want to just let it be.

You can spend a lot of time, effort and money and be no better off than when you started. I speak from experience...

Lightfoot,
Believe me I'm of the same opinion "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". However, the Rube Goldberg two piece stock bolt is a weak link. However, it does hold the stock on...for now. Therefore the least I need to do is make a one piece rod. Problem #1. When was the last time you tried to thread rod w/o the benefit of a lathe? The threads are cut anything but straight using just a die, and the threads need to be straight on this application. Solution to problem #1. Weld the two rods together to eliminate the Rube Goldberg rivets. I still like the idea of filling in the wholes in the stock, re-drilling, and use my new Savage stock bolt. Therefore I need a recommendation on a synthetic wood filler product.

grtandberg, do you know the local woodshop teacher at the high school?? That might solve the lack of a lathe. A lot of times you can get things done there and get quality results. He will know what kind of wood and glue that will give the best results, especially with oily wood.
One of the guys on the thread said "never say never when you are talking Savages" I have a strange one myself in 284. Has a 22 in. barrel and the side of the action is marked Model 99F on the left side of the receiver ring. Serial #11192XX, has an aluminum rotary mag. and top safety. I am so happy with it. Finally got it shooting last week, one hole groups, with Hornady 120gr. HP. Has been quite a struggle!! Have to seat the bullets out so far, it makes it a single-shot to get it to group like this. Otherwise it is 2 1/2" groups. I love this old gun!

The worst .284 I ever had in a 99 lever gun would do 1.5" groups at a 100.

What will it do with 139 grain Hornadys?? Smacked several West Texas bucks with that one.

With 150gr. WIN factory it does 1 1/2" 5 shots at 100yds.
140gr Sierra SBT tried several different powders-2" and over 5 shot groups
160gr Sierra SBT with IMR 4350 3/4-1" 5 shot groups

I didn't want to use the 160's, but it got me to thinking that I should seat the 120's that I wanted to shoot, further out. The OAL is ridiculous, but who can argue with a group that measures bore diameter 284. If I need a second shot, I can follow it with one that is the correct OAL of 2.800