I've got an excellent condition 1955 Savage 99F that I'm trying to put a sling on without drilling. For the buttstock attachment, I've got a leather buttstock cover on the way from Levergun Leather. I put an Uncle Mike's barrel band swivel stud on it, and as I feared, it seems my groups have opened up a little. Though I think the barrel band is a better/stronger way to do it, I'm still considering trying to hunt down a forend screw replacement stud. Anyone have one or know where to find one? Any thoughts or experiences with sling options for a 99 Savage? I know some like the leather attachment on the barrel but I worry about it rubbing the bluing.

Thanks,
John

I think Uncle Mike's use to have them but I don't see them listed any more.

Anyone know what the threads on the forearm screw are? I know they are different than the standard swivel stud offered now.

I literally sold dozens of those threaded studs until the source dried up.

The thread is 8-40. All they make now is 10-32. Have made several calls but can't find any left on the planet.

Might have 1 to spare. Check your Private Messages.

Mike, have you looked into having some made? Maybe buy blanks from Uncle Mike's and have Apertures and More guy thread them?

Can a 10-32 be rethreaded to 8-40?

I would think someone on this Forum could come up with a solution.

I pondered that some but maybe gave up too quick. Thanks for the prod!

When Uncle Mikes got sucked into that conglomerate there in OP, KS there was no dealing with them anymore.

Mike, put me down for a couple if you get some in

Johno

Aperatures and More would probably make the thing from scratch.

Maybe make some hook eye studs, too.

I solved the problem a few years ago by rethreading a Model 70 type front sling swivel to fit the stud on the barrel of my .300EG. I don't remember what the thread is and don't have the die readily at hand, but the diameter of the screw for Model 70 type swivels is large enough to allow you to turn the threads down with a die that fits the 99 barrel stud. You see the type of swivel I'm talking about in a lot of the Bishop and Fajen stock jobs that were done back in the 50 and 60s. I suspect you could do the same thing with a standard size quick detachable swivel stud.

The thread is an odd size. It is about a 10-36. The current 10-32 nuts won't fit. I bought two sets at the last gun show.

Could you verify the above and list the dies you used. Might add this to the sticky on "Misc. Good Things".

Can you rethread them by hand?

I'll look for the die this week and double check the thread. I basically ran the die down the screw like you would with a nut, but much slower and backed it off a lot to keep the cuttings cleaned out of the die. It seems to me the diameters of the two screws were not that far off from each other - otherwise I wouldn't have thought about doing it in the first place.

Rick I'm not sure what you are describing here but the 99 forend screw is absolutely a #8-40.

I was commenting on this...

I just looked at Lightfoot's comment and it reminded me of how I did it - it was about 10-years ago. I'm pretty sure I took a #10-40 die and compressed it enough in the handle to thread on to a 99 forearm screw. I then took it to the screw shank on the Model 70 type swivel and slowly recut the threads to fit into the 99 forearm stud. I don't have a Model 70 so I don't know what thread size they use. #8-40 dies must be hard to get, otherwise I would have used one. The die I used was made by HSS and has a split section in the side that will allow it to compress in the die holder.

You'll have to pardon me. I'm not a machinist or mechanic by trade.

Following, didn't use a sling last year, as I didn't want to drill. Don't like the loop option. Thanks for bringing this subject up!

Thanks for the comments everyone. Seems like there's not a whole lot of information out there on the topic. I believe either way you go - barrel band or swivel stud screw - accuracy is going to suffer a little. My 99F is very sensitive to how much you tighten the forend screw. The sweet spot seems to be 3/8 of a turn off of snug. I've got a target laying around somewhere with subsequent groups fired backing off 1/8 turn each group. Groups went from 2" at 100 yards to one jagged hole at 3/8 turn from snug. There was a very noticeable change in point of impact with each group as well. If I can find it, I'll take a picture and post it. I'm hoping the swivel stud screw will line up close to the sweet spot and I can lock-tite it in place - problem solved. I've also heard of accuracy "tuning" with a barrel band so maybe that would be an option too, but it might difficult having to readjust the position given the crappy metal in the newer Made-in-China Uncle Mike's barrel bands.

John

Look up GT brand swivels. They sell the swivel stud that screws into the forearm screw hole but you will have to grind it down to make it fit flush.

Thanks for the info! First I've heard of GT brand swivels and I'm sure others will be glad to hear about them too.

John

Anyone heard of issues with the weld coming loose from the barrel when using the forend screw replacement? I wonder how strong that attachment is.

John

wooten,The lug is dovetailed into the barrel . Don

Thanks, Don. Haven't had mine apart in a while, must have missed that. I guess it's not going anywhere if it's dovetailed.

John

Lightfoot,

Put me down for at least 2. I know you can do it. Go for it!!

By the way, anyone know what the thread size is on a Sav 24 fore arm? If they have the same forend screw as the 99 the possibilities get exponential. DonW

I'm in pondering mode right now. Stand by...

I turned and threaded a couple on my metal lathe for H&R single barrel shotguns. It's really pretty easy to do...

How many could you make in a day?

If the topic came up a month ago I'd been able to make some up, but I'm getting ready for a couple upcoming backcountry hunts. I could probably make it a winter project in a couple months, if there's some interest.

I think it's safe to say there's some interest.

Okay, somebody ping me in a couple months and I'll see what I can do.

I just did a quick search and came up with a couple places to check for forend screw swivel studs:

http://www.grovtec.com/products_rifles.php - look almost at the end of the page. Click the Dealers tab at the top for a dealer near you.

http://www.gun-parts.com/accessories/ - about halfway down the page on the left.

If they don't have them I'll try to make a batch in a couple months.

Run an 8-40 tap through the barrel lug because it is under size. Savage and a lot of gun makers used their own diameter screws to stop people from going to the hardware store or taking one out of a light fixture when they lost one. At least that way you will be able to use a standard size 8-40 screw if you are going to make something.

No drill slings from a forum member: easy on, easy off even in the field, but they stay on when you want them to:
email: [email protected]





This pops off and on with a simple pull on the tongue on each side, but STAYS on until then. You can thus carry in the field and remove on stand, replace when you wish. Works great!

I finally got around to taking the forend off of my 1955 99F and the lug appears to be soldered onto the barrel, not dovetailed. Is this true of the pre-mil 99F's or am I missing something?

John

Have never seen that with a factory barrel. Any indication it's been replaced??

I've noticed some post mils are soldered on but never paid attention to when it started.

I love it! Always something new turning up.

Based on the rifles I checked and looking in the parts manual I would say that all of the 99-F's with the bossed barrel up to the million mark have the non-dovetailed barrel stud. The parts manual lists a seperate stud number for the 99-F's, only.

I didn't sample any rifles past the 1 million mark as I don't have enough rifles to confirm much. Just looking at the parts manuals I would say that it continued on with bossed barrels having the non-dovetailed barrel stud.

Mine's a pre-mil and it has never been tampered with. I couldn't tell if it had been dovetailed and soldered or just soldered. Thanks for the info guys.

John

Made me look...

Woulda lost that bet...!

Anyone think there's an issue with attaching a sling via the swivel screw stud to that soldered lug?

John

No, i think it would be ok the stud is tight against the wood and most all the pull will be sideways against the wood. Don

I haven't seen or heard of a barrel with the stud pulled off.

Got one in the parts bin. Just the barrel. Minus stud. .308. Post mil IIRC. I can shoot you a pic if you'd like.

I have a good supply of the no-drill forearm stud sets. See the GB auction or drop me a PM.

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=252012524

thanks,
Mike

Do you still have these? I'd like to get a few.

Yup, see your Personal Messages.