I manage after of years of looking to finally score a Stith mount for one of my 99's. This one is in 250-3000
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Nice looking rig. You will LOVE your mount. Make sure your scope makes it ALL THE WAY to the ledge inside of the sleeve and that all the screws are tight. They hold zero just fine if you do your part on setting it up.
I had a smith mount the scope. When I got home with it was not satisfied that the reticle was level so put a level on things and moved it. I also was a little uncomfortable with the relief and tried to push it forward but it would not budge.
Once the front of the scope it in the sleeve properly, there is no more forward movement. It is what it is. When hunting season rolls around, more than likely in upstate NY, you'll be wearing heavy clothing. That will increase your eye relief somewhat. I see you already have a lace on on the rifle. What's under it? Has the stock been cut?
I put the lace on cuff so that I can use a sling. I replace the front forend screw with a stud from Lightfoot so as not to mess with the stock. The rifle is circa 1952 and unmolested. The scope is a Weaver Micro Trac V5
The smith had trouble getting elevation and had to shim the base. He is a little concerned with the elevation left in the scope. I will have to take it to the range to determine what I need.
I'm not familiar with the V5. What power is it?
Did the smith remove the adjustment plate to slide it through the ring?
Nice looking rig!
didn't they make different height front dovetail pieces? Seems like I have/had a couple kicking around that were different heights.
I don't know. Would not raising the front of the scope be the wrong way to go to get more elevation?
I don't know. Would not raising the front of the scope be the wrong way to go to get more elevation?
It could be the yours is ALREADY too high.
did you bore sight the rifle yet? Ive used all the diffrent size stiths and never had a problen with elevation, 1" 7/8 and 3/4
did you bore sight the rifle yet? that would let you know.
It was bore sighted but not shot. The smith sited the fact he needed to shim the base to leave enough elevation in the scope. We are hoping when I get to the range that it will be enough.
didn't they make different height front dovetail pieces? Seems like I have/had a couple kicking around that were different heights.
Is it possible from the picture if you can tell if you have a different height front dove tail that is lower?
I looked but must have traded them off already seems I had a set of three?
Need a better shot of that front tube to see the actual detail. Over the years I have seen a lot of mismatched Stith parts.
Is that scope tube really inserted all the way in the front tube? It just doesn't look right.
Is that a variable power scope and, if so, how did you the rear ring on??
Need a better shot of that front tube to see the actual detail. Over the years I have seen a lot of mismatched Stith parts.
Is that scope tube really inserted all the way in the front tube? It just doesn't look right.
I will take another shot of the mount later today. I loosened the rear ring and tried to push the scope forward for a little more eye relief and it would not go any further forward. After looking at the scope a little closer I would not have been able to get much more anyway as the rear of the scope was already pretty close to the rear of the base anyway.
Is that a variable power scope and, if so, how did you the rear ring on??
It is a variable scope 1.5 x 4.5. I sent the scope to the person that I bought the mount from. He put the scope in a glove box with an Argon atmosphere and removed the turrets to slip the rear ring over the scope.
I gotta wonder if the R&R on the adjustment plate dicked up the elevation?
The scope is a V4.5 then. That is a pretty short scope overall which made me question how far it really engages that front tube?
Quite interested in seeing more detail in the pics.
Lightfoot - would a spacer machined out of aluminum and affixed to the inside of a front Stith tube with epoxy provide adequate support for a shorter scope such as the OP's? I'm thinking this set-up would work best in a tube that uses the external locking ring rather than the tubes that have the tensioner in the bottom. Thanks
No need to epoxy anything. Yes aluminum will work, but black Delrin is better. Make a spacer either .2, .4, or .6" wide. OD small enough to go inside the sleeve and the ID big enough not to obscure the lens. Slide the insert in, slide the scope in and nothing's going anywhere. No need for epoxy.
At 50 yards my rifle shot high so that helps with any elevation issues. I managed to get it right on at 50 but the 100 yd range is under snow at the moment. I did already loosen the rear ring and try to push scope forward and it would not budge so I think it must be OK in the tube. Here are more pics of the mount.
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The scope isn't bottomed out in the tube but from looking at the rear you don't have much room to move it forward without the adjustment ring hitting the mount bolt.
My 99s always shoot high if I zero them on the bore sighter. I just set them 2 bars low now and it works pretty well.
Sounds like you have a winner then!
The scope isn't bottomed out in the tube but from looking at the rear you don't have much room to move it forward without the adjustment ring hitting the mount bolt.
My 99s always shoot high if I zero them on the bore sighter. I just set them 2 bars low now and it works pretty well.
Sounds like you have a winner then!
The overal measurment of the scope is 10 1/2 inches which means I have one inch in the tube. As long as the rifle performs that would be OK?
How did anyone back in the day mount the rear ring without taking the turrets off? I have a Balvar Scope with no external adjustments but use a Beuhler mount for windage and elevation.
The eyepiece was removed, then the rear Stith ring was installed and the eyepiece was screwed back on.
The eyepiece was removed, then the rear Stith ring was installed and the eyepiece was screwed back on.
Extra care taken for moisture?
Yeah, do it inside if it's raining.
The eyepiece was removed, then the rear Stith ring was installed and the eyepiece was screwed back on.
Extra care taken for moisture?
The old scopes were not gassed............. If you're worried splitting the rear ring is an option.
Actually the old Weavers were "gassed" with a lot of hot El Paso air. You had to send back to the factory for a can of replacement air every time you opened up one of their scopes. Just kidding, but having spent a chunk of the 90's living about 45 miles up the road on Las Cruces, NM, I can attest to the quality and quantity of hot Texas air in El Paso.
I started thinking that my scope is too short for the Stith. I checked on the overall length of a K 2.5 which a lot of people seemed to use and it is just 3/16 inch longer. Would that really make any difference. Besides the K 2.5 what scope was used in the Stith?
I started thinking that my scope is too short for the Stith. I checked on the overall length of a K 2.5 which a lot of people seemed to use and it is just 3/16 inch longer. Would that really make any difference.
The K2.5 or K3 or any fixed power doesn't have the power changing ring in the way so they can be pushed further into the tube than the V4.5.
Lyman All American scopes (the 2.5 and 3X with straight tubes) from the 50s / 60s also work well in the 1" Stith.
Brian, I think you're referring to the older Leupold M7 3X and not the M8. The eyepiece will unscrew from an M7, but not from an M8.
Rod