If you used a new knife this past hunting season, please tell us what you used(details!)and give a short review of the knife's performance.
Thanks, RS

I used an Ingram. It was great. The end.

Sarcasm at its finest, all true though.

I also used an Ingram model 7+ in D2 with Black Micarta. Worked great on the two bucks this year.

Joe

I used 2 new ones, but I made them (if that counts here). I used one on a mule deer (similar to a classic Loveless Drop Point with maple burl handle) and one on an elk (with a sort of spear point design with off white lined micarta handle).
I use 440c with a heck of a good heat treat and have had great success with sharpness and edge holding, and so have others who have used my knives.
This is not an advertisement.
mrk

Used a progressive tempered Lauri blank and green/black canvas micarta to build another knife this year. Ridiculously sharp, has cleaned and gutted several salamis, a couple pounds of summer sausage and processed about six feet of pork tenderloins so far and is still sharp. For under $25 and some time invested its well worth the effort.

I will notice that edge retention in general has gone up significatly on all knives since I started using an Apex Edgepro to sharpen my knives. Between thinning the edge, producing a more consistent edge along the full length of the blade and getting them ultra sharp to begin with has made a big difference.

varmintsinc

Is the Apex Edgepro similar to the Lansky system??
mrk

Same concept, but different means of production. I have both and the lasky has sat in the drawer. The Apex is smoother, quicker and more consistent. The website has a demo video that is a very realistic representation of how the product works.

The price is a little more but its like comparing a pinto to a lotus.

Do you have a link to the Apex system? I've been using a Lansky, but am open to a better system.

TIA,

Don

Here you go, Don ..... Edge Pro

Walker,

Thanks mucho!!

Don

Shucks, I skinned and boned a nice bull elk with a 9.50 cent Swede Mil surplus Frost made mil surp knife from Sportsman's Guide.

Did fine with no need for honing.

Had some more expensive edged tools with but never needed them..

When I bought the first of these knives two years ago, and saw the quality, I orderd another TEN.

Have given them to an assortment of folks who work and hunt in the outdoors from 12 years to 60 and they all like them...and USE them.
If you lose them, no biggie and they aren't queens for the display case.:)

I blued mine with OxphoBlue ( it's carbon steel) but other than that, they are a great bargain for the money..See the link( and know, I ain't one of SG's AD men)
Jim
http://www.sportsmansguide.com/cb/cb.asp?a=78455

DMB if you are looking hard at the edgepro the only stones you really need are the 180/220, the 320 and then skip to the 600. This will cover everything you should need to do. I keep messsing around with the polishing tapes up to a 3000grit to humor myself but reality indicates the 600 is plenty sharp.

Thanks for the info.
Are the stones Diamond, or regular Arkansas?
I have diamond stones with the Lansky, as I think they remove steel faster than the regular ones.

Don

Don, do you have some bench stones on hand?

Yes, I have some Arkansas stones, and some Japanese water stones.

Don

Don, if you're considering the Edge Pro sharpening system, you might also want to look at the EZE Sharp. It's a jumbo Lansky-style sharpener that's similar in operation to the Apex and Edge Pro, but with a few differences.

Instead of using stones supplied on a rod or by the manufacturer, the EZE Sharp relies on frames that hold bench stones. It comes with 2 different sized frames, one for 8"x2" stones and a larger frame that takes up to 9"x3" stones. The EZE Sharp also has a clamp that actually holds the knife instead of just laying it on the shelf of the Apex or Edge Pro.

It's made in Australia and is sold here in the US by several companies. The company web site has a little bit of info on it:

EZE Sharp

You can read some reviews on it here:

Blade Forum review
Edge Pro vs EZE Sharp
Another EZE Sharp review

I just ordered two sets from Wolff Industries, who has been selling them for half-off the original price. For $87.50, you can get the system and it comes with both sizes of stone frames; $10.00 more will get you the 8"x2" combination stone.

I wanted some extra stone frames and the Wedge accessory, so I ordered both packages, one with the 100mm flip over and the other with the Wedge. That's less than $200.00 for the 2 systems, 4 stone frames, the Wedge accessory, and 2 combination stones.

EZE Sharp... 1/2 off at Wolff Industries

I have a lot of stones that will fit this, so I'm looking forward to giving it a try.

WMac,

Thanks for the info.
I appreciate it very much.
I'll look into the EZE Sharp system.
I like what you wrote about how it works.
Checked out the links to get a handle on how it works. It's a huge improvement over the Lansky. I like the edge the guy got on the knife in the pix tutorial.
The one thing I don't like about the Lansky is the way the blade is held by a flimsy clamp for holding the angle and sharpening. The EZE Sharp has a much better blade clamp.

Don

WMac,
Wow I had looked at the EZE sharp but sure as heck was never able to find one at those prices.

DMB,
Anyway...the Edgepro uses natural stones and they cut as fast as you could possibly want them to. I must say I was a little hung up by the lack of a clamp but I quickly become accustomed to it and actually like it better than having the knife clamped.

Jim is absolutley correct, that inexpensive Swiss Mora is the best buy in the market and performs was out of line with its price. I have a couple stashed away in various spots as well. I make most of my knives from blanks for the sole satisfaction of using something I built. Lord knows if I figured my time into the cost they would be be about $500 each. I still have no idea how Ingram can deliver the product he does for what he charges.

Yep, other dealers have the same thing for close to $200.00, compared to $87.50 at Wolff. It looks like what I ordered will be delivered tomorrow. I'm anxious to try it out.

Last fall I used my Helle Eggen for the time on a good sized bull moose that I shot. I skinned and cut up the entire moose without ever having to sharpen it. By the time I was finished it was getting a little dull but I was amazed that I could do a whole moose with just 1 knife.

I used a Randall #10 saltwater with a 5" blade on two deer this year still very sharp, the handale was a little slick. John

anyone use one of these?

http://www.warthogsharp.com/index.php

I'm gonna' join this thread in two separate posts...



First, re the Edgepro:

In our shop we have both Wilton and Bader professional class grinders, and My Grandpa-in-law has a 2005 Tormec. With that over $5,000 in tools available to me, I firmly believe the Edgepro is the cat's azz.


I agree with the 600 as the finishing stone on the likes of D2 and S30V. On the coarse end I do not agree that the 220 (the 180 is no longer offered) is adequate. If any reprofiling of the blade is required the 120 is a must. Or, one should order a couple of blank rods and mount DMT XX diamond or Norton coarse stones to them for the reprofiling chores.




The Edge Pro uses synthetic water stones - silicon carbide in the coarse and aluminum oxide in the others.

Secondly. I'd offer some comments on David Boye. It was Boye knives that started my interest in alloys some decades ago. I have had 5 of his knives and currently have a BDS folder and a BDC basic and BDS custom dropped edge fixed blade.

IMO David was a pioneer and is a legend, as well as a hell of a nice guy. That said, My personal opinion is that the dendritic steels have been surpassed today by the CPMs and certain of the Japanese or Euro alloys. That David's son-in-law William "Matt" Conable, the "William" in William Henry knives uses ZDP in his folders, and his fan/disciple (and my favorite knifemaker) Phil Wilson uses primarily CPMs should be evidence of that.

I last spoke with David 2 years or so ago and at that time he was only making his boat knife folders, having ceded his designs and shop to Francine Larstein. I've read online since then that he may make the odd custom for folks, but that is generally rare.

If one REALLY likes David's designs, and wishes them, PLUS the advantage of today's steels I'd offer that Phil Wilson uses the same super thin flat grinds that were the real "secret" behind Boye knive's cutting ability, in combo with the highest tech steels available...and Charles Marlowe offers the classic "dropped edge" Boye signature design, also in CPM S30V....

Have been using Bob Ball's knives for a few years, but got a new one, so I think it is fair to call it a new product review.

Robert Ball, Knifemaker

His three and four-fingered skinner designs are really about as functional as I can imagine a good knife being. I have BG42, 440C and an S30V examples and have been extremely happy with them. The 440C is something Bob has moved away from completely these days.

I used two to completely reduce BW's sheep, several deer, a day cutting moose and grayling's caribou. At the end of it all the knives were in need of sharpening, but still nearly functional. I like my knives much sharper and will not try that test again, but I have never seen a knife that would keep an edge that long... or even close.

His bolsters are undercut and perfectly alilgned and his prices are well in line with many makers without bolsters.

For the money I have not seen a knife that will run with his utility knives and his fancy stuff is pretty stinking fine!
art

Thanks for the info on the Edge Pro. I'm seriously looking at the Australian made sharpening system WMacD mentioned. It is a high class system that is well designed and made.
When I finish a knife, and am ready to sharpen it, I knock the square edge off the blade where the edge bevel starts on a grinder, so I don't have to do all of that work on the Lansky. Just saves time and effort. I start with the coarsest diamond stone in the Lansky to get a good edge bevel profile, then work down through the grits to the finish stone. Keeping that edge bevel flat, on both sides, is so important for a good edge.
I have a Bader grinder I bought 27 years ago, that has a 2 1/2HP motor on it, and all I gotta say is that it is a horse. I have two other grinders that were made up for just doing flat work, and another set up for slack belt sanding, for handles. The platen grinder has an 18" platen that can be rotated from horizontal to vertical and set at all angles in between. It sees lots of use.
Thanks for your input on the Dendritic vs S30V. That good to know.
Phil Wilson did several articles on S30V years ago in Blade Magazine. As a result, I started using it too. I know the edges on S30V blades are excellent, I just hadn't figured out which steel was best for edge holding, it, or Dendritic. David has his picture with one of his knives after cutting 3000 pieces of 1" hemp rope, without having to resharpen it, that impressed me much. David's wife is from Flint, MI, and is a really nice gal to talk to as I always wound up talking to her when I made an order for his blanks.
You're right about David being a pioneer in his line of work. I felt he never got the credit he deserved. David is one very bright guy. And, his father was tug Boat Captain..
The first knife I ground in 1980 was on a Wilton Square Wheel.

Take care,

Don

Art what model of his do you have in S30V? I see a lot of BG 42 on his site and 440. I like his "my knife" for a big skinner and his 4 finger skinner with the clip point. How big is the LB&T small enough to be a caper or is it a little long? He really doesn't tell you how big they are on the site.

Dean
His three finger skinner is the one I have in S30V and Riley has the four finger with a slightly increased drop point in BG42.

The trout and bird knife I have is shorter, a little pointier and a little straighter on the edge than his usual run and it is about perfect IME&O for a caper. His regular LB&T could use a little trimming to be perfect for my taste, but his responses from users tell him they like it that way. I know I could easily make it work... But I am a bit fussy that way!

Give him a call and talk to him... he will give you whatever you need for numbers.
art

for the unfancy crowd:
my kershaw echo fixed blade worked well - again.
odd looking to some folks, but comes to hand so nicely. takes and keeps a nice edge. for $30 or so, hard to beat ...

I have picked up several knives this past year in the $50 to $100 range, including Buck's Alaskan Guide in S30V. My biggest suprise is the Stanley heavy folder with German 440SS. Very tight and sharp for $18 at SMKW. A great tool box and work knife that will backup any hunter blade. I ordered some more for gifts.
Good luck.

George

Late to get in on this, but anybody got reports on 52100 steel. Just looking for guys that use knives and know makers that are familiar to this steel. I forge a good bit and am generally biased toward carbon steel O1 being my pick. Although I bought a EDC with s30v and like it a lot for edge retention, If it wasn't air hardening I would make up a few in it.

Sorry for the hijack.